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  #676  
Old 01-28-2016, 04:37 PM
bem-ster bem-ster is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i E39 M54 Engine
Thank you for the detailed post. I had done this many moons ago and yes the replacement resistor was much different but at least the blower worked fine until yesterday when the thing decided to go Defrost only. I should get the new resistor by monday. My experience was to lay on my back in the foot well follow the wires to the plug, the plug connector came out very easy. I couldn't get at a good angle to release the resistor so I sat in the front seat and blindly felt around for what I knew was the holding tab. I couldn't do it with both hands but I was able to get it to release while my finger held the tab down and out she came. I'm expecting the reverse order to work fine. Now for that Control Panel. Does anybody know if their is a fuse for the Control Panel I get no lights no button control nada nothin. I'm hoping the R&R of the resistor resolves my problem so I can run my air. I got to have air down here in Florida.
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  #677  
Old 02-10-2016, 08:52 AM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Will this DIY work for a 2005 BMW 530I (E60)

I am told the engine is the last of the same generation engines with the E39. I was wondering if this DIY can be applied to my vehicule?

My issue is that I am not getting any noticeable (if any) cold air out of my AC. For that matter I am not getting much warm air...at least I just don't feel the air moving into my interior when I change or increase the fan settings. it just seems like no air is being pushed into the interior. Could it be this FSU?

I appreciate any input you can add on both of these questions? Thank.s
  #678  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:33 PM
bem-ster bem-ster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSCLEBOY View Post
I am told the engine is the last of the same generation engines with the E39. I was wondering if this DIY can be applied to my vehicule?

My issue is that I am not getting any noticeable (if any) cold air out of my AC. For that matter I am not getting much warm air...at least I just don't feel the air moving into my interior when I change or increase the fan settings. it just seems like no air is being pushed into the interior. Could it be this FSU?

I appreciate any input you can add on both of these questions? Thank.s
Ok... not a whole lot of information but based on what you said. You have control of the fan speeds? You can use the buttons on your Climate Control Panel? If so, then FSU sounds like your resolve. I had fan directional problems on mine several years ago and I replaced the FSU. Problem solved.

However, this last time it wasn't the FSU and the strong indicator was I had no control over the Climate Control Panel AT ALL. You don't seem to be having the same problem. I would suggest you check the outside ambient temperature sensor located under the right fender well. I had a bad one and my ac wouldn't work the heat wouldn't blow nothing was controllable although the Climate Control Panel was lit up and working. Take into mind, I had a road hazard and the sensor was my problem, easy fix. You may want to wait for other responders. But i"m thinking FSU based on what you've said. If you need a new Climate Control Model, get back with me, there is a little swimming through the muck when you replace those units. The job is easy finding one is the issue.
  #679  
Old 02-11-2016, 08:06 AM
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MUSCLEBOY MUSCLEBOY is offline
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bem-ster View Post
Ok... not a whole lot of information but based on what you said. You have control of the fan speeds? You can use the buttons on your Climate Control Panel? If so, then FSU sounds like your resolve. I had fan directional problems on mine several years ago and I replaced the FSU. Problem solved.

However, this last time it wasn't the FSU and the strong indicator was I had no control over the Climate Control Panel AT ALL. You don't seem to be having the same problem. I would suggest you check the outside ambient temperature sensor located under the right fender well. I had a bad one and my ac wouldn't work the heat wouldn't blow nothing was controllable although the Climate Control Panel was lit up and working. Take into mind, I had a road hazard and the sensor was my problem, easy fix. You may want to wait for other responders. But i"m thinking FSU based on what you've said. If you need a new Climate Control Model, get back with me, there is a little swimming through the muck when you replace those units. The job is easy finding one is the issue.
thanks for your help bem-ster!

I seem to have control of the fan speeds in that when I turn it clockwise it does seem to intensify...but not really much...the change in intensity of the air coming out of the vent with each increase in the fan setting seems minimal as hardly noticeable when you hold your hand against or just near the vents. Even when you have the Air Condition setting on there is no noticeable change is the intensity of air coming out of the vent...and the air is not even slightly cold.

The buttons on the climate control panel, circulation, a/c, other...I figure you are referring to? If so, yes they light up when I depress them, but again...when I select the air circulate or the a/c or both, and increase the fan setting not much happening. No real noticeable change in air flow coming out...I would expect that when the fan is set to the middle or 12 noon position you should get a pretty noticeable flow of air coming out and hitting your hand when it is held near that vent....whether or not you have air circulation alone set, or the A/C or both. In my case....I get a very weak flow coming out....barely noticeable. Heck, from other vehicle's I have owned, in this position my face would be getting smacked by the air flow coming out of that vents which were pointed towards me.

To your point above regarding the:

"You don't seem to be having the same problem. I would suggest you check the outside ambient temperature sensor located under the right fender well. I had a bad one and my ac wouldn't work the heat wouldn't blow nothing was controllable although the Climate Control Panel was lit up and working."

..... yes,,,,my ac does not seem to work, nor does my heat seem to work in my car along with the lack of air flow from the vents I mentioned earlier. And just as you said, my climate control panel seems to light up....is that the description I gave above where the A/C, Air Circulation buttons have a green light in them when they light up?...is that what you are referring to when you say the Climate Control Panel was lit up?.......if so, yes mine is lit up and.....everything you described seems to be happening with me.

bem-ster, what do you think I should do to test further for this same issue you had? Anyone else wants to elaborate as bem-ster also suggested? Thanks to all .
  #680  
Old 03-26-2016, 02:32 PM
grysbmw grysbmw is offline
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Thank you Thank you Thank you

Thank you very much Elvis...

Found everything like you said only at first you did not mention the cover under the glove box. In another post I noticed that and wham...found it. I pulled it out one handed with my eyes wide shut. Found one at Pelican Parts for $48 bucks and they are shipping it to me for $10 so my overall cost is $68 with shipping and tax. Not bad, I told the guy to ship it. Expecting in in 2 days and will let you all know if it actually solves my problem. However from what I have read here it sounds like it is the typical issue with these cars.

Thanks for all the recommendations.
  #681  
Old 06-18-2016, 04:42 PM
dadog6575 dadog6575 is offline
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FSU/blower motor resistor

What exactly does the bFSU do? I have had some problems with the A/C in my 2000 232ci, I had warm air coming from the floor and cool air from up top, figured it was the heater control valve, replaced and now cold air on the feet, however, blower blowing lika a tornado but only a small amount coming from the top vent and I run it with only the 2 center ones open and side ones off. So I bought the resistor and getting ready to replace it, does anyone know if this may help, it is almost 17 years old.
Thanks,

Butch Jones
  #682  
Old 06-18-2016, 05:18 PM
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gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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FSU is a resistor and heat sink for the blower motor. Your problem sounds more like the vent baffles aren't working properly.
  #683  
Old 06-18-2016, 06:09 PM
dadog6575 dadog6575 is offline
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Fsu

What do you suggest for a fix.

Thanks
  #684  
Old 06-18-2016, 07:29 PM
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gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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Beats me. I haven't had to deal with the issue. There might be something on the second page here
  #685  
Old 06-19-2016, 12:30 PM
intuitivejohn intuitivejohn is offline
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This doesn't sound like a resistor problem. At least to me

The resistor controls the amount and volume of the airflow. So if you're getting a lot of volume coming from the fan it shows that fan is working.

It sounds like more of a control or direction issue in a controller somewhere.

By the way, I have found when I'm looking for specific answers and it's not obvious as I go through the forums that there's a straightforward answer for me.

This is not an advertisement for anybody in particular. But I find it saves me a lot of time.

There are several online sites that offer access to experts and they charge you. The names of the ones I've used him come to my mind…. But I will tell you that the 25 to 50 bucks that I've spent For an exact answer saves me tons of time and aggravation. It also cuts out the contradictory advice that's offered in good faith…. Not from experience.

I would just put professional advice for fixing my BMW in Google and see what comes up with

I'm not a cheapskate. I enjoy fixing problems. But the challenge is not my reward. The fix is.

Good luck my friend
  #686  
Old 06-19-2016, 12:46 PM
bem-ster bem-ster is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i E39 M54 Engine
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadog6575 View Post
What exactly does the bFSU do? I have had some problems with the A/C in my 2000 232ci, I had warm air coming from the floor and cool air from up top, figured it was the heater control valve, replaced and now cold air on the feet, however, blower blowing lika a tornado but only a small amount coming from the top vent and I run it with only the 2 center ones open and side ones off. So I bought the resistor and getting ready to replace it, does anyone know if this may help, it is almost 17 years old.
Thanks,

Butch Jones
Hey Butch I'm not sure if the Final Stage Resistor is the answer to your issue. Sounds more like your control panel, which was the final case with my issue. I am not familiar with your model, mine is a 2001 series 5
  #687  
Old 07-11-2016, 03:56 PM
sapote sapote is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 323i, '74 3.0CSi
2000 323i Touring Auto 130K miles

Finally my original 16 yrs old FSR died. I got new one $50 from BMW Berh Made in China, not Germany. They warranted 1 year so I will see how the Chinese part works.

I removed the two fuses related to AC circuit but didn't remove battery. Removed the glove box without touching those hangers with the rivets.
Removed two T20 screws holding the flapper motor (to gain access to the FSR) and just pushed it away for access to the FSR screws. Trick: placed rag or tissue paper to seal off places that you don't want the T20 screws to fall in. After unthreaded the screw, pull the tool out and then place a magnet on a small screwdriver as a tool to retrieve the screw -- this way it won't fall off into the black hole. For installation, I use the same torx driver (without magnet) with the screw on its tip, carefully on a horizontal line up the screw hole and done. Removed the FSR with its plug, then unplugged the plug the connector. Install: install the FSR without connector, then plug the connector.

People call the thing Final Stage Resistor but the device is not a resistor pot as used in the older BMW. This is a transistor linear power amplifier (as linear audio amplifier with massive heat), or motor driver, takes in an analog control voltage and output a high current analog voltage to control the fan speed, hence it dissipate a lot of heat and so the massive heatsink. Many people believe the very hot FSR was the reason for its failure, and had asked the question why BMW didn't design this motor driver using PWM (low heat loss) instead of linear amplifier? Bmw did use PWM for the radiator and AC fan, so why not for the cabin fan? I believe someone did make a PWM FSR after-maket part before but no longer active. I was interested on this question myself and studied the system during this work. It is fairly easy for me to design a 60A PWM motor driver in the space of the FSR body, and it will run cool like a cucumber. My thought was that due to the sensitive digital control/communication buses in the big wire bundle near FSR location (the FSR's harness was bundled together with many other wires), BMW didn't want to take the change of electromagnet noise generated by the fast switching PWM high current FSR that could cause error in the air-bag system, CAN bus and other buses, and therefore they choose to use the more quiet linear power amplifier FSR. I also think the new updated design FSR is much better compare to the original unit. If one want to use a PWM FSR, one should carefully shield all PWM high current signals from other sensitive wires and buses.
  #688  
Old 07-11-2016, 03:56 PM
sapote sapote is offline
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Deleted due to duplicated post

Last edited by sapote; 07-25-2016 at 06:02 PM. Reason: duplicated post
  #689  
Old 08-07-2016, 10:02 AM
Bonnie.wood1 Bonnie.wood1 is offline
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2014 BMW 528i

My air conditioner turns on for about 30 seconds when I first start the car then it stops for a few minutes and runs another 30 seconds or so and keeps cycling. Never enough to cool off the car. Tried to trouble shoot using the tutorial here but my electrical Bay under the dash is different. Can anyone offer help on a newer model?
  #690  
Old 08-07-2016, 10:03 AM
Bonnie.wood1 Bonnie.wood1 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2014 BMW 528i
2014 BMW 528i

My air conditioner turns on for about 30 seconds when I first start the car then it stops for a few minutes and runs another 30 seconds or so and keeps cycling. Never enough to cool off the car. Tried to trouble shoot using the tutorial here but my electrical Bay under the dash is different. Can anyone offer help on a newer model?
  #691  
Old 08-07-2016, 07:23 PM
bem-ster bem-ster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonnie.wood1 View Post
2014 BMW 528i

My air conditioner turns on for about 30 seconds when I first start the car then it stops for a few minutes and runs another 30 seconds or so and keeps cycling. Never enough to cool off the car. Tried to trouble shoot using the tutorial here but my electrical Bay under the dash is different. Can anyone offer help on a newer model?
My car is 13 years older than your car, yours is only 2 years old. If you don't get any replies here, I'd go to an Indy who does AC work. It's that or the Stealer. It doesn't sound like an FSU if you ask me. When it was my FSU I had not blower AT ALL.

I replaced my FSU before mine went out at 60,000 miles and did it myself. I'm at 175,000 now. My last AC problem was @ 150,000 it was Module related. I had to replace my Dash Module, scary but once I diagnosed through an Indy I did it myself saved a lot of coin. If you are not handy you might be best to go to a pro (Indy).

I still have a good working original FSU with 60,000 miles on it. But it wouldn't work on your car.
  #692  
Old 08-08-2016, 02:42 AM
zaff888 zaff888 is offline
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fsr replacement

hi,
i think i have the same problem and need a new fsr,can you recommend someone in or around luton beds to replace the fsr for me?thanks
kind regards
zaffar
  #693  
Old 08-24-2016, 06:47 PM
Matt335is Matt335is is offline
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hey guys, I have a 2011 335is and no air seems to come out at all. Checked all fuses this morning for it and removed cabin filter while car and air were on to try and spin it to see if it may have been stuck but no luck. Do you think I will need a new blower motor and fsu? Also, does anybody know of any reliable brands? I do not want to buy something cheap then get stuck in the same position 3 months down the road.
  #694  
Old 10-29-2016, 07:52 PM
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sixpot_simon sixpot_simon is offline
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Accessing the FSU on right-hand drive cars

Most of the instructions show LHD cars, so just thought I'd document how to access the FSU for RHD cars, where it is on the driver's side:

1. Remove the transmission tunnel trim ("front right centre console trim panel", #3 here).
To do this, remove the screw that is up the top and near the front, then slide the trim piece backwards.

2. Remove the kick panel (the large piece just above #22 here).
This is held in by several screws (phillips head and small torx) and two plastic twist locks at the front. The speaker wiring also needs to be unplugged.

From here on, the process is the same as the LHD cars.

Cheers,
Simon
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  #695  
Old 02-13-2020, 09:12 AM
gizogizo9228 gizogizo9228 is offline
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Mein Auto:
Hi all. I cant find where it is installed. It seems differet from othe ones. Is tere any other place. I have 318i 1999. M43engine. 1.9L
 

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