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  #1  
Old 07-04-2019, 08:40 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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M44B19 Running Rough

So about a few weeks ago I hit a speed bump slow but hard and every since then the car has been acting up

I plugged in INPA and have originally found a faulty CAM Position sensor and it threw MAF codes, I replaced the sensor and did a test with the multumeter and the old sensor was indeed very much out of spec vs the new one.

With the new sensor the code hasn't returned but I am getting a Knock sensor 1 error code. INPA's cylinder roughness shows Cylinder 1 & 2 are running around 60 - 70 while 3 and 4 are around 120 and Cylinder 4 200. Feels a bit lack of power and all that and makes a bit more noise than usual. Also getting an error that says height adaptation error, that stays. The knock sensor error comes after driving for a little bit.

What is the verdict usually? should I replace the 2 front knock sensors? I know they are a PITA to get to.
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2019, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
... Cylinder 1 & 2 are running around 60 - 70 while 3 and 4 are around 120 and Cylinder 4 200. Feels a bit lack of power...
Are those compression readings? What is 4?
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Old 07-05-2019, 01:55 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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Cylinders 1 - 4

the smoothness in inpa while its running..
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
... INPA's cylinder roughness shows Cylinder 1 & 2 are running around 60 - 70 while 3 and 4 are around 120 and Cylinder 4 200....
So those are INPA readings for cylinder running smoothness.
What is the reading for Cylinder 4 -- is it around 120, or is it 200?

Last edited by vintage42; 07-05-2019 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:31 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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well 2 cylinders were around 60 and 70 the other 2 were 120 and 200. I will go double check and take a picture of it tomorrow. But what I am asking is, is that the case for a bad knock sensor on these cars, (I am new to the M44) on the 6 cylinders I am yet to come across knock sensor issues.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
... am getting a Knock sensor 1 error code... after driving for a little bit... Feels a bit lack of power... should I replace the 2 front knock sensors?...
This thread says check the connections first:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Sensor-Failing

And see Posts #4,5 and 6 in this thread:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ouble-shooting
They say do a continuity test from the knock sensor connection back to the DME. Like maybe neither the sensor nor the DME is the problem, but it is the wire between them. It is possible that the wire from the sensor to the DME was loosened or damaged by mechanical work. Knock sensor is under the intake manifold, hard to access. I guess you would disconnect the sensor's bellows plug to test the wire to the DME.

DME wiring pinout:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...71&postcount=4

Source for new part if needed:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/12141247993/
http://www.car-stuff.com/1997bmwz3knocksensor.htm

This video that I used for accessing the cam sensor connector under the manifold should help with accessing the knock sensor, too:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
... what I am asking is, is that the case for a bad knock sensor on these cars...
I don't know if INPA roughness readings would be related to a knock sensor code.

Last edited by vintage42; 07-06-2019 at 04:02 AM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:37 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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Okay so I went for a drive today, came and plugged it into inpa, the car sounds a bit like a truck or diesel and the cylinder smoothness idle shows

Cylinder 1 67
Cylinder 3 63
Cylinder 4 195
Cylinder 2 138

So either the Cylinder 4 & 2 and compensating for 1 & 3. or those are the problematic ones. Never had this before the bump and its been sitting for just 2 weeks.

Will the knock sensor 1 being bad cause this? Will test the knock sensor values tomorrow.
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Old 07-07-2019, 01:08 PM
NZ00Z3 NZ00Z3 is offline
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Have you considered that the rough idle could be due to a vacuum leak?

As you have INPA, have a look at the fuel trims with a hot engine at idle. The fuel trims are in the "A-reg" section of INPA. Look for Adaption Valve additiv (short term fuel trim) and adaption value multiplicativ (long term fuel trim)

If any are > 8, then you may have a vacuum leak. It is confirmed by watching the additiv trim and reving the engine for 20-30 seconds, the number will drop if you have a vacuum leak. Normal fuel trims are +/- 5
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:31 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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^ I will try those fuel trims in INPA. just incase, althohg I have tested the system with my little smoke machine and really there aren't any vac leaks I can find. Ever since the speed bump the whole car just doesn't run right, originally the cam sensor turned out bad, now the knock sensor is giving the errors. which I am sincerely hoping is the issue.
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2019, 06:05 AM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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Knock sensors helped and disconnecting the maf doesn't bring that error however the noise is there and roughness also.

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  #11  
Old 07-20-2019, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
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... however the noise is there and roughness also...
Noise is there?
But this is the first time you mentioned a noise. When did it start?
It does sound like valve or timing chain related.
You have also not said how long you had this car and how many miles it has.
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Old 07-21-2019, 05:42 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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I have had this car for a few months, have driven it long distances and without any issues, the noise came originally when I hit a small bump really hard but at a really low speed, it just bottomed. Since then I had all kind of error codes and I went after them one by one, the noise slowly grew louder till it got to this stage its been sitting in my garage for a month now being diagnoses and maybe done 10km on it since.

I opened the timing case cover and I did take apart the chain tensioner and I wonder if its the tensioner that is bad.
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
... the noise came originally when I hit a small bump really hard but at a really low speed, it just bottomed... the noise slowly grew louder till it got to this stage...
I would think that bottoming a strut would affect the tire, wheel or strut itself, but could not affect the timing chain tensioner. If the tensioner is making the noise, and getting louder by itself, maybe it is a coincidence not caused by that bump.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:26 PM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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I am just wondering if the tensioner was bad and on its way out, and the bump did something? I wonder if there is something else I can check on the timing case? should I take apart the guide rails? they dont look to be worn out or anything.

Would a bad timing chain tensioner cause the engine to run poorly? and misfire after warming up? what else can I look at? does it sound like rod knock?
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Old 07-22-2019, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterM52 View Post
I am just wondering if the tensioner was bad and on its way out, and the bump did something? I wonder if there is something else I can check on the timing case? should I take apart the guide rails? they dont look to be worn out or anything.
Would a bad timing chain tensioner cause the engine to run poorly? and misfire after warming up? what else can I look at? does it sound like rod knock?
It does not have the deeper sound low in the engine that I would expect from a rod knock.
This is a higher pitched tapping that does appear to come from the timing case. And the frequency or taps per second seems too fast for a rod.
In your second video, can you make the tip of the chain guide actually touch the case? Can that be possible if the tensioner is good, because the tensioner retains oil pressure and should keep pressing out on the chain.
Perhaps the tensioner piston is bad, and allowing slack in the chain which is slapping the the guide against the case. I don't know if slackness in the chain can affect valve timing a little and cause roughness, or if the chain must jump a tooth for that.

Last edited by vintage42; 07-22-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:14 AM
MisterM52 MisterM52 is offline
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Well I am replacing the tensioner, it does go all the way and I see some shavings on the guide rail on the left which is meant to me tensioned. Whats the fastest way to check and correct the timing on these motors incase it is off a little bit?? I dont have the timing lock tool for the motor, I am leaving in a few months so wont have time for the guy anymore.. but whats the correct procedure
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  #17  
Old 07-22-2019, 02:22 PM
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... Whats the fastest way to check and correct the timing on these motors incase it is off a little bit?? I dont have the timing lock tool for the motor... but whats the correct procedure
I don't know.
The Bentley Manual says turn engine over two rotations, reinstall camshaft and crankshaft locking tools to check timing, and remove tools if OK.
This video shows head removal and installation using zip ties to preserve the timing, but I don't if any of applies to your question:

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