1994 E34 525i Door lock Latches - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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Old 10-31-2019, 09:20 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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1994 E34 525i Door lock Latches

Anyone ever experience when unlocking your driver door, the rest of the locks don't operate?

Would door actuator in the driver's door be faulty? Is is there another central location for the door locks?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2019, 01:32 PM
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jfs356 jfs356 is offline
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My guess is since the Driver's Front Door is the master, it has three wires and/or a relay, which drives the other doors. In my Volvo, the DS door lock actuator is a three wire unit, with a relay upstream, all other doors are two wire units. Could also be a fuse issue, check your fuse box (central locking is tied in with other functions, typically with same fuse).
The General Module is located under the rear seat (looks like a thin video cassette

Last edited by jfs356; 11-01-2019 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:42 PM
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jfs356 jfs356 is offline
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Synchronizing Central Locking System when doors door do not open: Bentley Manual page 515-2.
"After manually locking or unlocking the system, the locks may become unsynchronized. To synchronize the locks, close all doors, trunk lid, and tailgate. Lock the passenger door by turning the key clockwise into the emergency locking position (approximately 110 degrees from 0). Unlock the driver's door. If any of the locks do not operate, repeat the locking procedure until the locking system is synchronized."
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:40 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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You might try a couple things.

The larches/locking mechanisms get sticky and the actuators lack the power to operate them. I'd get some spray silicone lube and spray the latches freely. You also want to lube up the locking mechanisms -- the front doors offers pretty good access for the spray straw through the hole in the door panel for the lock button. In the back doors, I've used the plug near the exterior door handles.

It's also a good idea to check the wiring at the left trunk hinge, where the trunk operation can produce metal fatigue in the wires. The truck lid actuator is wired into the locking system, and broken wires can mess it up.
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:14 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Thank you for the replies guys.

I did look at the wiring harness at the left trunk hinge and found 3 or 4 exposed wires. I individually wrapped them with electrical tape, then all together and so far the locks have been functioning. Fingers crossed this resolved the problem. Now back to finishing my E39 cooling system overhaul.
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Old 11-02-2019, 09:44 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Well, this morning they worked fine, then when I got back to unlock the driver door, the rest of the locks didn't activate. While driving, I pushed down on the driver latch, still nothing. Got home, got out of the car and unlocked the driver door from the outside and low and behold, all of the door locks activated then locked. Something is amiss here.
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Old 11-02-2019, 10:31 AM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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What happens when you lock/unlock the car at the trunk?
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Old 11-02-2019, 07:35 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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When it's working, the truck locks all of the doors.

It's a random thing, so pinpointing it is the problem.
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Old 11-02-2019, 09:45 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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I'd check the wiring at the trunk hinge again. The metal can fatigue, so one of the wires might have an internal break that you can't see. I'd check continuity on all of them using the ETM as a guide. Flex the wire a bit as you test continuity.

The way the locks engaged on their own makes me suspect a short somewhere, and the trunk hinge is the likeliest part. After that, the wires passing through the flex point at the driver's door would be suspect No. 2.

Also, I would splice in fresh wire where you see damage. Again, the metal may have weakness that produces intermittent faults.
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