Can I avoid programming the battery if I obtain the same spec model? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 12-14-2017, 07:12 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Can I avoid programming the battery if I obtain the same spec model?

My battery is finally on its last legs and I urgently need to get another one. Trying to save as much as I can (I'm a DIYer) and avoid the dealer do any work. Two questions.

1. Would I be able to obtain the same spec AGM battery from local stores or is this a dealer item?

2. If I get the same spec battery (already took pictures of it, 90ah 900amp), can I avoid programming? I've heard that these batteries have to be programmed but is that limited to different specs batteries? can I just drop in a direct replacement if I got the same unit from the strealer?
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2017, 07:33 PM
Raylee Raylee is offline
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I have a strong feeling that you still have to register. You would think you don't need to.
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:31 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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I wound up buying a battery and putting it in myself, then I had the dealer register it at a cost of $140. I'm sure I could have had the registration done for less at an independent BMW garage, but I had my car in to the dealer for the fuel pump recall and I decided to just have the dealer register it while they had it. From everything I read battery registration is needed to allow the Inteligent Battery System to properly charge and maintain the battery and provides for maximum battery life.
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Old 12-15-2017, 12:57 AM
mrashton mrashton is offline
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Any new battery needs to be registered when fitted to the car. This is to reset the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) as the car makes adjustments to the charging rate as the battery ages.

As for the battery spec, this is printed on the battery itself so make sure the specs match exactly and you'll be fine. If the new battery is a higher AH rating then the car needs to be coded for the larger capacity so I would stick with like for like as BMW intended.
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:54 AM
snj1013 snj1013 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yogi799 View Post
My battery is finally on its last legs and I urgently need to get another one. Trying to save as much as I can (I'm a DIYer) and avoid the dealer do any work. Two questions.

1. Would I be able to obtain the same spec AGM battery from local stores or is this a dealer item?

2. If I get the same spec battery (already took pictures of it, 90ah 900amp), can I avoid programming? I've heard that these batteries have to be programmed but is that limited to different specs batteries? can I just drop in a direct replacement if I got the same unit from the strealer?
Check out the coding forum. With a $20 cable, and downloaded free software, you can do this yourself.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2017, 05:10 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yogi799 View Post
Where did you buy the battery and how did you match the specs?
I bought the battery at an Autozone as I had a good experience with the Duralast battery I bought for my E46. For my F10 I replaced the original 80Ah / 800CCA spec BMW battery with a more powerful 95Ah / 900CCA unit. Because I changed the specs of the battery the new more powerful specs had to be coded in addition to registering the new battery.
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Last edited by JeffDunes; 12-16-2017 at 05:15 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-19-2017, 04:33 AM
chris30o0 chris30o0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffDunes View Post
I bought the battery at an Autozone as I had a good experience with the Duralast battery I bought for my E46. For my F10 I replaced the original 80Ah / 800CCA spec BMW battery with a more powerful 95Ah / 900CCA unit. Because I changed the specs of the battery the new more powerful specs had to be coded in addition to registering the new battery.
Registering isn't the same as coding.
Did the dealer charge you $140 for both or just for registering?
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2017, 05:21 AM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Carly has a simple effective routine to register batteries, for 15 (?) euros. Works fine.

You need Carly anyway if you own a BMW. Pays for itself immediately upon first use. Also does basic "typical" ECU coding -- probably 80+ coding selections -- very easily. For 90% of what you usually need, Carly's coding routines will solve your concern.

BTW, registration is "coding" as we know it -- it is resetting software switches in certain ECU's. "Coding" as we define it here can be more comprehensive than simply setting option or condition switches in software, as it includes uploading new ECU software modules or altered ECU maps. But battery registration is coding.

ISTA/D (Rheingold) has a selection that registers replacement batteries. Also has a charging system and battery test routine to display condition. ISTA 4.08 is available on the Bimmerfest coding forum. Learning curve, but excellent system for the DIY'er.

DIS has one, though I haven't personally used it for this purpose. DIS is aging and requires a virtual machine setup. Awkward.

INPA supposedly has a battery registration, but INPA, being a factory test system, can be opaque and harder to use than ISTA/D.

There is no need whatsoever to use a BMW battery. A $170 AGM from Autozone is an excellent choice. You'll get about 4-5 years out of one. Batteries have a limited life in BMW's.

Seriously, it isn't magic. The charging system in the 5 series hasn't changed much since the E60 with the 2006 N52 release or so.
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Last edited by banglenot; 12-19-2017 at 05:44 AM.
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  #10  
Old 12-19-2017, 05:24 AM
chris30o0 chris30o0 is offline
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Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
You need Carly anyway if you own a BMW.
I wouldn't really put it that way.
You need something to code your car with.
Depending on your techincal skills it's either gonna be Carly (less skills) or a coding setup including INPA, etc. (more skills).
With Carly, people managed to brick their CUs by the click of a button. With NCS you at least know how you bricked it.
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Old 12-19-2017, 02:21 PM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris30o0 View Post
I wouldn't really put it that way.
You need something to code your car with.
Depending on your techincal skills it's either gonna be Carly (less skills) or a coding setup including INPA, etc. (more skills).
With Carly, people managed to brick their CUs by the click of a button. With NCS you at least know how you bricked it.
Interesting. Most people have less skills. The population here that uses NCS is probably pretty small. Carly's simple coding interface meets the majority's needs, most likely.

Any other complaints on here for Carly bricking an ECU? I've backed it out a couple of times with a backup rewrite, just because it's easier than finding a setting I was unhappy with, but never came close to a brick. In fact, I've never had a single hiccup with Carly in the last two-three years of use. I use an OBD2 cable, though, not the wireless interface. Maybe that makes a difference.

Also, INPA doesn't "code", that I know of, other than a couple of basic routines for setting options on the battery, for example. But it doesn't reload new software, nor reset many (any?) options. I assume by INPA etc, you mean INPA, NCS and so on. ISTA+ codes on F series, but not on E.
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Last edited by banglenot; 12-19-2017 at 02:25 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2017, 03:00 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Carly is a far cheaper and simpler setup that can do 90% of what most people want. I have Carly, Bimmercode, and software setup. I almost always start with Carly.
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:55 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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I only wish the damn thing wasn't $150! But then, two months ago I left $200 at the dealership for something that Carly would have pulled in a second (basic diagnostic - ie. pulling codes!). Talking about throwing money down the drain for lack of knowledge!

So I look at it as a very good investment and finally after 7 years I will finally code some things like the stupid stupid stupid seat-belt reminder.

That's on top of registering my new battery. Yippeeee.
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2017, 12:32 AM
chris30o0 chris30o0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banglenot View Post
Interesting. Most people have less skills. The population here that uses NCS is probably pretty small. Carly's simple coding interface meets the majority's needs, most likely.

Any other complaints on here for Carly bricking an ECU? I've backed it out a couple of times with a backup rewrite, just because it's easier than finding a setting I was unhappy with, but never came close to a brick. In fact, I've never had a single hiccup with Carly in the last two-three years of use. I use an OBD2 cable, though, not the wireless interface. Maybe that makes a difference.

Also, INPA doesn't "code", that I know of, other than a couple of basic routines for setting options on the battery, for example. But it doesn't reload new software, nor reset many (any?) options. I assume by INPA etc, you mean INPA, NCS and so on. ISTA+ codes on F series, but not on E.
Hoenstly, it's not too hard to get into using INPA or NCS. It's worth a shot before paying over 5 times more for a shiny app.

I think it's worth mentioning that things might go wrong. Probably not on the majority of cars but this app makes such an easy-to-use impression that one might think it's perfectly safe to use.
Note that you're still fiddling with your car's electronics.

Yes, I'm aware that INPA doesn't code but it usually is part of the basic setup one installs for coding and diagnosing E-series.
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:40 AM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Originally Posted by chris30o0 View Post
Hoenstly, it's not too hard to get into using INPA or NCS. It's worth a shot before paying over 5 times more for a shiny app.

I think it's worth mentioning that things might go wrong. Probably not on the majority of cars but this app makes such an easy-to-use impression that one might think it's perfectly safe to use.
Note that you're still fiddling with your car's electronics.

Yes, I'm aware that INPA doesn't code but it usually is part of the basic setup one installs for coding and diagnosing E-series.
Your forgetting that you have to have a laptop. While many do own a laptop, many dont. Factoring that into the price, Carly is a much easier/cheaper alternative. IMO is also safer, as creating a backup file is required for first time module coding. Additionally, it also creates a backup every time you code anything.

Bimmercode was the one that bricked my Comfort Access, I used Carly to restore.

All the ways have there advantages, but I think the fear of using Carly is pretty unwarranted. Things could go wrong using any of the available coding options.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:51 PM
Rick-F Rick-F is offline
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Originally Posted by samadkins29 View Post
Your forgetting that you have to have a laptop. While many do own a laptop, many dont. Factoring that into the price, Carly is a much easier/cheaper alternative. IMO is also safer, as creating a backup file is required for first time module coding. Additionally, it also creates a backup every time you code anything.

Bimmercode was the one that bricked my Comfort Access, I used Carly to restore.

All the ways have there advantages, but I think the fear of using Carly is pretty unwarranted. Things could go wrong using any of the available coding options.

I use both Carly and BimmerCode and I have managed to make my gear indicator on my dash disappear. No more P, R, D, or gear number for Sport/Manual shifting. It still displays the Mode (ECO, Comfort+, etc). I don't recall specifically what I changed to do this. Someday, I'll use a backup and get restored-- no big deal not having it though. (Ears, gut, and tach let me know if I need to shift up or down.)

And you're correct-- it is far more dangerous to actually drive the car as compared to using Carly.

Last edited by Rick-F; 12-20-2017 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:47 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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My new 92AH battery was just successfully programmed with Carly. I must admit it WAS NOT intuitive at all and I almost registered a wrong battery (yea, how the hell is that possible: badly design UI can do that to you) . My video will show that. Full battery replacement DIY vid coming soon.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

PS. But i was able to quickly code with Carly and that was easy. Disabled those damn seatbelt reminders!
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Old 12-20-2017, 09:40 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Sam, I've ran into one issue, maybe it is just a display glitch. My batter is installed and registered and the DIY video will be ready tonight but when registering with Carly, I got this weird message. See attached.

My car was on the original OEM battery, that's #1 and #2 is that my car does not even have 128000 km on the odo!!! I am at 101k! WTH???

Should I be concerned??? Carly did say registration successful as you will soon see, but what on earth??
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Old 12-20-2017, 10:01 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Carly can run a report on the miles from various collection points. Might just be something funky with the Miles to KM conversion? I have Carly for iOS, so I am afraid I cant do a direct comparison.

Would be interested in seeing the video!
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Old 12-20-2017, 10:11 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Can Carly show you the history of battery registrations done in the app?? I'd love to verify it , even though i have it in the video. I did not find any option other than just to view my fault codes.

Video is coming in 30 minutes (rendering now). The other issue I've ran into was lack of a 92ah option. only 70, 80, 90 and 100 i think. So the message said: choose next lower option, which i did, ie 90.
I assume 92 vs 90 is splitting hair therefore there is no such option. sounds reasonable?

Last edited by yogi799; 12-20-2017 at 10:20 PM.
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  #21  
Old 12-21-2017, 01:38 AM
chris30o0 chris30o0 is offline
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That mileage might actually be an indication that your tach was (poorly) altered.
In INPA you can view the last five registering processes, I'm sure Carly has an option for that as well.
If not, I guess you could register it again and see if the mileage increased accordingly or is lower now.

Regarding the options for the battery, this is a BMW thing. You also have to note that there are also AGM batteries (which are the recommended batteries actaully), where 90Ah is the maximum value.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:31 AM
F10-tom F10-tom is offline
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hello,

I'm new here. Can anyone point me to the correct INPA for the F10. I bought a cable on ebay but it only came with INPA for the older models.
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