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  #1  
Old 10-16-2019, 09:34 AM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Newly acquired 2009 328i xdrive...bouncy suspension

Hello, I picked up a steal of a Bimmer this week, a 2009 328i xdrive coupe with only 54k miles! When I drove it, the first things I noticed were the rotors were warped (easy enough to fix) and the suspension seemed bouncy, I think the rear is the culprit. I've driven it more and it's very bouncy at highway speeds going over some of the crap roads where I live.

Wasn't sure if 50k miles would be it for rear struts? Assuming it sat outside in the winter the seals may have perished and that could be it. Other thing I don't know is if someone put lowering spring in it and maybe that would be why too? Anything else I should check? Are the e90's notorious for anything suspension going bad causing bouncy ride I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance, glad to be back in the Bimmer world again!
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2019, 01:28 PM
marvinstockman marvinstockman is offline
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Do you have the Carfax for the car? If not, you can buy a copy on ebay for around $5, as there may be a reason for the car being 'cheap'.
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:33 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Yes, the seller provided it, it's a 3 owner car, I assume the 1st was a lease since it was almost exactly 2 years. It was a college student's car so I'm sure maintenance may have been sketchy but there were 24 service records and this college student only owned it for 14 months so I wasn't worried. It may just be out of round tires. I'll get new tires anyway and maybe that's all it is. Clean and clear title too.
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:44 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Just read it again, it was probably over-serviced at the BMW Dealership in Illinois. Brake Fluid Flushed 4 times, oil changed at 5000 miles like clockwork. Only missing info is from 2018 to present when the college student had it. I'm changing oil and Power Steering reservoir this weekend, changing front rotors as well. It may be as simple as new tires and 4 wheel alignment.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:07 PM
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Riiight, you're gonna warp a 30 mm thick disc.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rakes/2T0U4uVA
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:10 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Riiight, you're gonna warp a 30 mm thick disc.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rakes/2T0U4uVA
Clearly you've not experienced what high performance carbon brake pads can do to a soft cast iron rotor. Rotors warp all the time, it's why they invented rotor turning or resurfacing.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:12 PM
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OK, you're the dude.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:13 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Riiight, you're gonna warp a 30 mm thick disc.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rakes/2T0U4uVA
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article........riiiiight rotors never warp.

2. Vibrations from the Brakes
Another symptom of bad brake rotors is excessive vibration or pulsation coming from the brakes. Warped or excessively worn rotors may vibrate irregularly and cause vibrations that can be felt in the pedal, and sometimes through the vehicle's steering wheel or chassis. Additionally, the brake pedal may feel like it's pulsating when pressed due to warped brake rotors. This occurs because the pedal is no longer making contact with the surface of the rotor.

Last edited by mthedude; 10-16-2019 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:19 PM
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Pad material deposited by dudes that don't know to properly treat new pads. Dude!

You can find anything you want on hte interwebz, like Alice's Restaurant, 'ceptin' the truth.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.

Last edited by Doug Huffman; 10-16-2019 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:20 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Pad material deposited by dudes that don't know to properly treat new pads. Dude!
Well it was a USED CAR, i've owned it for 24 hours, so your argument is with the previous owner I guess?
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:21 PM
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Nope. My 'argument' is with teh dude.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:23 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Nope. My 'argument' is with teh dude.
argue all you want. I've got warped rotors that I'm replacing...I can send pics if you want when I swap them? I don't really understand why you chimed in to argue that rotors can't warp when I can definitively prove that they can with a straight edge and my iphone camera. What this pissing contest has to do with a bouncy suspension feel in the rear is kind of escaping me at this point, but thanks for your input.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthedude View Post
the first things I noticed were the rotors were warped (easy enough to fix)
!
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:34 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
!
Not to be a jerk, but first you suggested that rotors can't warp....now you're seeming to suggest that the warped rotors are the culprit to the bouncing sensation when going over bumps? This is getting hard to follow....
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Old 10-16-2019, 05:19 PM
Mark963 Mark963 is offline
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If you still have run flat tires, those things are ROUGH and couple much more impact than conventional tires. There are definitely some "suggested" non-run flat tires for these cars and they are all smoother.

The theory seems to be that BMW tried to tune the suspension to take up some of the harshness of those first gen run-flats, but that was a huge compromise. There's a lot of very mushy rubber bits. What I notice now is certain road defects seem to excite the loosenesses and you get nauseating bouncing or side-to-side swaying in the 2-3Hz range - much higher in frequency than when the rubber bottoms and you get the mass of the car vs the springs and dampers. Some people don't notice it. Some of us are driven insane by it. I never drove an older german car felt like these and I drove 3 similar E90's before buying the one I did.

Monroe rear upper shock mounts are solid rubber vs the OEM foam rubber and that seems to get rid of some of the issue, but not a cure-all. Rear subframe bushings seem to add a lot of play. There are threads on here and the 1-addicts forums.

What tires are you running and what size?

Last edited by Mark963; 10-16-2019 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 10-16-2019, 05:25 PM
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CALWATERBOY TRE CALWATERBOY TRE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthedude View Post
argue all you want. I've got warped rotors that I'm replacing...I can send pics if you want when I swap them? I don't really understand why you chimed in to argue that rotors can't warp when I can definitively prove that they can with a straight edge and my iphone camera. What this pissing contest has to do with a bouncy suspension feel in the rear is kind of escaping me at this point, but thanks for your input.

Well, rotors can temporarily warp if too thin....they can't reject enough heat.....minimum thickness is stamped on each rotor. Have you measured? I'd do that first.

Then, to confirm or deny permanent warp [RARE!], I'd rub 'em down w/emery cloth to remove pad material, then measure runout. How we doin' now?

But the cheap date is: Several very high speed very short stops to scrub pad material. Smooth, suddenly???


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  #17  
Old 10-16-2019, 05:55 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Well, when I drive it at speeds over 25-30 mph and apply the brakes you get the shudder, wobble and grind. In my experience with other makes of cars when this happens you can get your rotors turned, or in most cases since they're so cheap now, just buy new rotors. Which is what I opted for. I'll inspect the pads as well but according to the college student I bought it from he had just replaced the pads. But, I don't think any of this has one bit to do with the bounce from the suspension....I just mentioned it because I noticed it needed some work when I bought it. I noticed the wobble when you applied the brakes and the grinding as well, plus the bounce....I'm 100% sure I can solve the brake issues. I'm not 100% where the bounce is coming from.

Tires have good tread but look old, I'll verify if they're run flat or not. If they are, I'll ditch those post haste. I've always hated them.
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Old 10-16-2019, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mthedude View Post
Well, when I drive it at speeds over 25-30 mph and apply the brakes you get the shudder, wobble and grind. In my experience with other makes of cars when this happens you can get your rotors turned, or in most cases since they're so cheap now, just buy new rotors. Which is what I opted for. I'll inspect the pads as well but according to the college student I bought it from he had just replaced the pads. But, I don't think any of this has one bit to do with the bounce from the suspension....I just mentioned it because I noticed it needed some work when I bought it. I noticed the wobble when you applied the brakes and the grinding as well, plus the bounce....I'm 100% sure I can solve the brake issues. I'm not 100% where the bounce is coming from.

Tires have good tread but look old, I'll verify if they're run flat or not. If they are, I'll ditch those post haste. I've always hated them.

Can be as simple as really outta wack toe. Alignment?

Can be a bad bushing....inspection needed, car in air.

Emery cloth is by far the cheapest 'turning' ya'll can do to a rotor. Or....do those high speed stops right away. Good result?

@ 50k mi those shocks are significantly aged. Koni Special Active Reds'll put a grin on yer mug!
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Old 10-16-2019, 06:21 PM
Mark963 Mark963 is offline
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I've been told that most E90 rotors are running thin when the newer longer-life low-dust pads go. I totally agree with dude about warped rotors. Maybe it's different with these cars, but I've been through warped rotors on many other cars. Pulsating brakes = warped rotors. If it's been sitting for a long time, it's possible that the surface has some rust only in one area or missing from one area which can create some pulsating, but that'll be gone with a few good stops. If someone replaced the pads themselves on the cheap and lacking in knowledge of how to do it properly, it's also possible that they screwed it up.
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:12 PM
dharmabmw dharmabmw is offline
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Originally Posted by mthedude View Post
Well, when I drive it at speeds over 25-30 mph and apply the brakes you get the shudder, wobble and grind. In my experience with other makes of cars when this happens you can get your rotors turned, or in most cases since they're so cheap now, just buy new rotors. Which is what I opted for. I'll inspect the pads as well but according to the college student I bought it from he had just replaced the pads. But, I don't think any of this has one bit to do with the bounce from the suspension....I just mentioned it because I noticed it needed some work when I bought it. I noticed the wobble when you applied the brakes and the grinding as well, plus the bounce....I'm 100% sure I can solve the brake issues. I'm not 100% where the bounce is coming from.

Tires have good tread but look old, I'll verify if they're run flat or not. If they are, I'll ditch those post haste. I've always hated them.
Do you have a dial indicator? Verify the rotors are out by measuring the run out. Also, check under the rotors between the hub and mating surface for rust, which will cause pulsating that you can feel in the pedal.

I wouldn't use Emery cloth as you can leave bits of grit which will embed in the pads and cause scoring of the rotors. A better option is a wire wheel on an angle grinder.

Thirdly, the hydro bearings will fail and cause a brake pulsation but only at certain braking speeds, so check them if the rotors check out fine.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:00 PM
ctuna ctuna is online now
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Get rid of the Run Flats if you want a less bouncy ride.
You should do a search on Run Flats here lots of threads
on the subject.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:33 PM
mthedude mthedude is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Pad material deposited by dudes that don't know to properly treat new pads. Dude!

You can find anything you want on hte interwebz, like Alice's Restaurant, 'ceptin' the truth.
I love Arlo Guthrie....I cannot tell a lie...I put that envelope underneath that garbage.
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