08 bmw 328i will not crank or start, need help!! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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Old 10-17-2019, 09:25 AM
Chris510707 Chris510707 is offline
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Mein Auto:
08 bmw 328i will not crank or start, need help!!

I replaced coil, plugs, starter, and also battery. BMW still will not start not even attempt to crank. The replacement battery is a refurbished battery with only 600cca if that matters, due to living in a warm area, but original battery was at 900cca. Lights came on , i hear clicking from my gear shift and it sounds like my starter is clicking too, but no crank or start. My brake pedal is also stiff asf. I need help trying to figure this out, already put to much money into this car for it not to start up.
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:49 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 328xi E91
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Originally Posted by Chris510707 View Post
I replaced coil, plugs, starter, and also battery. BMW still will not start not even attempt to crank. The replacement battery is a refurbished battery with only 600cca if that matters, due to living in a warm area, but original battery was at 900cca. Lights came on , i hear clicking from my gear shift and it sounds like my starter is clicking too, but no crank or start. My brake pedal is also stiff asf. I need help trying to figure this out, already put to much money into this car for it not to start up.
Welcome to the Forum!

First let's make sure we correctly understand your issue: My understanding is that your STARTER (both the original AND the replacement) will NOT Crank or Turn the engine, so of course the engine will NOT start, as the engine has to be turned by the Starter at > 100 RPM for it to start, and if the crankshaft & cams do NOT rotate/turn, then the DME (Engine Control Module) won't fire the Plugs or Pulse the Injectors. If "No Starter Cranking" is the fundamental issue, then coils & plugs (or injectors) are irrelevant.

OTHER QUESTIONS: You did NOT indicate whether you have Automatic Transmission (AT) or Manual (MT), so I will assume Automatic. You don't say WHERE in the world you are located, and equipment varies by country of origin, AND if you have a start immobilizer or security system added, that may prevent starter engagement. The following assumes your car is a US market vehicle with NO aftermarket Immobilizer.

From what you have described so far, the "clicking from my gearshift" is the Primary Clue. There should NOT be any such sound during starter cranking, and so we need to understand WHAT could be clicking near the Gear Shift Lever that would prevent Starter Activation. That means you need to examine the Starter Activation circuit, and fortunately TIS provides a FREE reference to virtually all wiring circuits in out E9x vehicles.

I realize you are asking for help, so that's what I'm trying to do without being critical of your efforts, knowledge or experience. If you (1) have the desire to do your own diagnosis/ repair, (2) some basic knowledge of mechanical or electrical systems, and (3) basic tools such as DMM (Digital Multimeter), $6 at HFT (Harbor Freight Tools), and preferably a Scan Tool to read Fault Codes, you can probably diagnose the issue with the help of the Forum and FREE online resources such as TIS circuit diagrams which provide information such as this circuit diagram for the Starter Activation on your 2008 328i:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9

FIRST TEST:
Obtain a DMM/Multimeter and measure battery voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood. See the 1st Attachment to this post for photo of B+ terminal under Red Cap (Green Arrow) and Chassis Ground Pin (Yellow Arrow). Red meter probe on B+ (Battery Positive Terminal) and Black meter probe on Chassis Ground Pin to measure battery voltage (engine NOT running) or System Voltage when engine is running and alternator charging. If your battery voltage as measured at those points is greater than 12.0 V, both BEFORE and AFTER attempt to crank starter, then battery is NOT the issue. If Voltage is LESS than 12.0 V, charge battery (at same Jumpstart Terminals) until voltage is > 12.0 V ten minutes after removing battery charger, and try test below again.

2nd Test:
(a) Turn Ignition ON (Press START WITHOUT pressing Brake Pedal) If there are ANY warning icons illuminated on your instrument cluster, take a photo of the cluster and attach it to your next post. (b) Press Brake Pedal and determine (mirror or helper) if brake lights are lit. (c) with helper listening over Left wing/fender with hood raised (as close to starter as possible), press Brake Pedal & START button as both YOU and Helper carefully note any clicking sound, and report those sounds here, describing as accurately as you can whether single click, repeated "ratchet-like" clicks, etc.

SYSTEM FUNCTION:
Follow this description on the CAS circuit diagram linked above, assuming AT:
The CAS (Car Access System) Module sends the Start Signal to the Starter Motor Solenoid (M6510a) via Pin #22 (Black wire) of Connector x13376 when the START button is pressed, together WITH (A) Foot on Brake Pedal and Brake Light Switch (S29) Input to CAS, AND (B) Gear Selector Lever in P or N, and Gear Position Input to CAS from Gear Indicator Light (E82) via Black/Yellow wire to Pin #11 of the CAS Connector, confirming that Position (Park Lock).

If you have clicking coming from the area of the Shift Lever when START is pressed with foot on brake, that is PROBABLY due to a wiring issue (loose or broken wire) related to the Park Lock Solenoid and/or the Gear Indicator Light module which MUST provide Input to the CAS Module that Lever is in Park or Neutral BEFORE Starter may be engaged.

See IF, with Ignition ON & Foot on Brake, you can get gear shift lever from Park to Neutral. Do NOT use force. If it will NOT move when you press the button on the front of knob and attempt to move the lever, then let us know, as there are OTHER ways to get it out of Park. If you CAN get it out of Park to Neutral, check to see if "N" is shown on BOTH the Instrument Cluster AND the Gear Indicator Light (on Driver side of shift lever console), and try to start.

For help in understanding how various systems in your vehicle work, DIY instructions on repairs, etc., see the attached "E9x References" pdf with links to helpful FREE information.

When you post back, please let us know the results of those tests AND ALSO whether the car has EVER started during your ownership, and if so, when the starter would no longer crank, and what other events/ issues/ repairs immediately preceded the No Crank fault.

George
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