2006 BMW 645ci Installed new clutch now cranks but wont start - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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  #1  
Old 10-21-2019, 02:53 PM
scottieup! scottieup! is offline
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2006 BMW 645ci Installed new clutch now cranks but wont start

Hello,
So bacsically I replaced the Clutch including rear main seal,reseurfacing flywheel, new pilot bearing,disk, pressure plate as well as replaced the always leaky SMG hydraulic clutch expasion tank. All went well. When key on trans can be seen to be shifting between r-n-d so I have pressure. Thats all good. Now the problem is that it cranks over fast and fine has fuel at the rail,but it wont "fire up" . I did leave the key in the ignition with the battery off if this means anything. Im using a snap-on "Versus Edge" model #EEMS330 and I now am also getting a code 277F Crankshaft Sensor. Im sure if this was somehow damaged it would stop the car from running but it looks fine. Not obviously cracked or broken and the car drive in.
Let me know please

Update when measuring voltage at crankshaft sensor both pins 1 and 2 are readin 12 volts with part plugged in or not, no change when magnet metal put by sensor.
Thanks all

Last edited by scottieup!; 10-21-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-21-2019, 08:37 PM
HerbP HerbP is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottieup! View Post
Hello,
So bacsically I replaced the Clutch including rear main seal,reseurfacing flywheel, new pilot bearing,disk, pressure plate as well as replaced the always leaky SMG hydraulic clutch expasion tank. All went well. When key on trans can be seen to be shifting between r-n-d so I have pressure. Thats all good. Now the problem is that it cranks over fast and fine has fuel at the rail,but it wont "fire up" . I did leave the key in the ignition with the battery off if this means anything. Im using a snap-on "Versus Edge" model #EEMS330 and I now am also getting a code 277F Crankshaft Sensor. Im sure if this was somehow damaged it would stop the car from running but it looks fine. Not obviously cracked or broken and the car drive in.
Let me know please

Update when measuring voltage at crankshaft sensor both pins 1 and 2 are readin 12 volts with part plugged in or not, no change when magnet metal put by sensor.
Thanks all
If you are getting the code for the crank shaft sensor, I would suspect it is probably bad. Strange you are seeing 12 volts on both sides of the connector? I would pull the cabin air filter on the passenger side, & open the DME box. The IVM is located there, & it controls all of the sensors that keep the car running. It has around 8 fuses located on it, & one could be possibly blown. If the IVM is bad, the engine will not start running. Have you been getting any no start conditions prior to doing this work, if so, the IVM would be suspect. The link below will get you to the TIS online system that will give you the wiring schematic for the car. It is possible that a wire got pinched causing your problem? a new IVM is around 125.00, & you can only get a BMW part locally, from the dealer. Enter your last 7 digits of your vin, so that the info will be for your model car.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:39 PM
HerbP HerbP is online now
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One other thing to check is your battery voltage at the jump terminal. If it is very low from the doors open or the switch on, the battery could be very low on voltage. The voltage needs to be above 12 volts for everything to work properly.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:13 AM
scottieup! scottieup! is offline
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Thanks for reply,
voltage at batt 12.6v The car ran perfect before. The customer overheated the clutch so we changed it. Is there any way I could have shorted the IVM? I checked all fuses but will recheck
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Old 10-22-2019, 05:51 PM
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Did you pull the IVM to check the fuses, or just check the fuses in the glove box & trunk? Since all of the wiring from the motor & tranny go thru the IVM, anything is possible.The only other thing can be the EWS & DME might need to be re-synced. Since you work on the clutch, check the wiring to the clutch relay.
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Old 10-23-2019, 11:36 AM
scottieup! scottieup! is offline
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I checked every fuse on the car. The thing Is that the crankshaft(flywheel) sensor is getting 12v at both pins 1 and 2. I know that the yellow wired pin should be getting 5v and that should drop to zero when metal is put up to sensor. I've tested it with the sensor connected and backpinned and I've tested just the harness itself without the sensor attached and pins 1 and 2 both get 12v.

Last edited by scottieup!; 10-23-2019 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottieup! View Post
I checked every fuse on the car. The thing Is that the crankshaft(flywheel) sensor is getting 12v at both pins 1 and 2. I know that the yellow wired pin should be getting 5v and that should drop to zero when metal is put up to sensor. I've tested it with the sensor connected and backpinned and I've tested just the harness itself without the sensor attached and pins 1 and 2 both get 12v.
1 & 2 get 12 volts each, on one side of the plug. The 3rd wire goes to fuse 5 on the IVM. If fuse 5 is bad in the IVM, or the IVM is bad, it will not start. Look at the drawing on the NewTIS link & look at what the IVM controls. I still think that the IVM is related to your problem. I don't have time to search everything out, but I would start there.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:59 PM
scottieup! scottieup! is offline
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Thanks for your help, I have check out the diagrams. 2 more questions relating to IVM. 1.Would the harness still get 12v if fuse 5 was blown? and 2. You said both terminals 1 and 2 should have 12 v but I swear the yellow wire (which is terminal 1) is supposed to get 5v which goes to 0v when sensor is activated.
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Old 10-24-2019, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottieup! View Post
Thanks for your help, I have check out the diagrams. 2 more questions relating to IVM. 1.Would the harness still get 12v if fuse 5 was blown? and 2. You said both terminals 1 and 2 should have 12 v but I swear the yellow wire (which is terminal 1) is supposed to get 5v which goes to 0v when sensor is activated.
I have not had time to look further, but it looks like the supply terminal coming off the IVM should be 12 volts. One of the other 2 wires should be 5 volts & the other would most likely be a ground. I have been short on time this week, but work your way thru the TIS documents for more help. It is very common for the IVM to fail, the IVM fails more than any other part BMW sells. Remove the DME box cover, & pull the IVM out for inspection. Check all of the fuses, & open the plastic cover to inspect for any cold solder joints. If you see any cold solder joints you can repair them, or just replace the part.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:00 PM
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Search IVM & you should find some DIY's for this.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:04 PM
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DIY section, E63/64 Vehicle Electrical System .
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