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The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-04-2019, 08:02 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Originally Posted by Watchme View Post
Meh, leave oil pan alone unless you're a neat freak like me. Valve cover gasket is more important to address as oil seeping down from top can do more damage than oil dripping onto subframe.
Did you add dye when replacing AC medium?
That makes sense about the oil pan vs. the valve cover. It just seems like the oil pan is leaking a little more than I'm willing to live with (don't want to coat my driveway). Unfortunately I did not add dye when I charged my A/C. I'll have to check if I still have some.
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2019, 10:47 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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30FF is gone now. I realized I was a little sloppy when I put everything back together and forgot to reattach the intake manifold vacuum line.
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2019, 10:56 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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I decided to do the valve cover gasket. The cover is off and the gasket should arrive today. Hopefully this takes care of the burning oil smell I get through the cabin vents.
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  #29  
Old 09-11-2019, 09:03 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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The valve cover gasket is done. It took me about 5 hours, but it was surprisingly painless. I smelled no burning oil on my test drive, even after letting it idle for several minutes after a 15-minute drive.
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  #30  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:24 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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I finally got around to removing the water pump. Sure enough, I have the same hairline crack that so many others have had. What a ridiculous design flaw. And what's even more ridiculous is how much harder it is to get at the pump on an xi.
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  #31  
Old 09-12-2019, 09:39 AM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
And what's even more ridiculous is how much harder it is to get at the pump on an xi.
I'm guessing that's why it's a ~$1,500.00 job at the dealer
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  #32  
Old 09-12-2019, 10:57 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Originally Posted by Yukoner View Post
I'm guessing that's why it's a ~$1,500.00 job at the dealer
Yeah, $1500 to buy you another ~20k miles and then you get to do it again! What I find hilarious/infuriating is that going with an electric pump means you could put it literally anywhere, yet a once bulletproof belt-driven part was stripped of its reliability and thoughtlessly buried for future headaches. Thank you, BMW.
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  #33  
Old 09-12-2019, 11:39 AM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
Yeah, $1500 to buy you another ~20k miles and then you get to do it again! What I find hilarious/infuriating is that going with an electric pump means you could put it literally anywhere, yet a once bulletproof belt-driven part was stripped of its reliability and thoughtlessly buried for future headaches. Thank you, BMW.
It's interesting to hear perspectives on the electric water pumps.

In all my previous cars (non-BMW), I was used to belt-driven pumps. All of those pretty much started leaking around the 100K to 120K km mark (that's ~60K to ~70K miles). The electric ones I haven't heard much about them leaking, but rather they just fail, as in the electronics just fail from one second to the next.

I was going to swap out my water pump as a preventative maintenance item on my 328i last year, but that got shelved for other more pressing repairs. When I originally booked the water pump replacement, my dealer was surprised that I wanted to do this, because the failure rate, according to them, is very low. My SAs told me that out of the water pumps that DO fail, almost all are in the 100K+ miles category, most are closer to 150K miles. They actually suggested that I really didn't need to do this maintenance item, but certainly would do it if I wanted to.

I find this interesting because as far as I can tell, there's no "business motivation" for the dealer to NOT want to do work on my car.

So I wonder, what's the actual failure rate of the electric water pump ? I know what we can find on forums, but like anything else, people don't come to the forum to say "everything's working good, no problems here". In that sense, we only see biased statistics.

FWIW, I do know that on my 335i, the original electric water pump did fail at ~140K km (~90K miles). TBH, I'm not sure I would expect much more life out of it than that, so I can't really complain at that point. I don't understand where the "to buy you another ~20k miles and then you get to do it again" comes from, as I've seen others say it as well.
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  #34  
Old 09-12-2019, 11:59 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Originally Posted by Yukoner View Post
I don't understand where the "to buy you another ~20k miles and then you get to do it again" comes from, as I've seen others say it as well.
I admit this isn't firsthand knowledge for me. I am basing it off of what I've read in forums. I have come across several forums where users have replaced multiple pumps with very little mileage in between, and the failure point has been in the same location on the plastic cover. And when I discovered that mine has the same crack, it only reaffirmed to me that this is a design flaw. Many people have been quick to point out that the mounting bolts likely weren't torqued properly, causing these repeat failures, but the crack occurs in an entirely unrelated area. And from what I've read, the N52 water pump is quite a bit more robust than the N54.

I've been maintaining my family's (high mileage) vehicles for the past 13 years and have changed exactly 1 belt-driven water pump, and that was only because I was changing the timing belt already, not because it failed. I do agree with you that it's interesting to hear different perspectives. And I'm not really infuriated by this. It just seems like a bit of a fail to me.
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  #35  
Old 09-12-2019, 12:56 PM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I admit this isn't firsthand knowledge for me. I am basing it off of what I've read in forums. I have come across several forums where users have replaced multiple pumps with very little mileage in between, and the failure point has been in the same location on the plastic cover. And when I discovered that mine has the same crack, it only reaffirmed to me that this is a design flaw. Many people have been quick to point out that the mounting bolts likely weren't torqued properly, causing these repeat failures, but the crack occurs in an entirely unrelated area. And from what I've read, the N52 water pump is quite a bit more robust than the N54.

I've been maintaining my family's (high mileage) vehicles for the past 13 years and have changed exactly 1 belt-driven water pump, and that was only because I was changing the timing belt already, not because it failed. I do agree with you that it's interesting to hear different perspectives. And I'm not really infuriated by this. It just seems like a bit of a fail to me.
See this is where it's interesting - I wonder if there's some truth to something like correct torquing of bolts, because dealers (I've spoken to two) don't seem to think there's a major issue with water pumps in the E9x series.

My N52 is at ~55K miles, still on original pump
My N54 is at ~120K miles, one pump replacement at ~90K miles

The plan is to proceed with preventative changing of the N52's water pump at next year's dealer visit. We shall see how that goes this time around
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  #36  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:23 PM
dharmabmw dharmabmw is offline
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My N52 electric water pump failed at around the 225,000 km mark. I think failures may also have something to do with replacing the coolant as per the schedule, though I have heard that the early versions of the pumps suffered from poor mechanical mounting of components on the circuit boards.

Some people successfully revived the pump by reattaching the broken leads to a capacitor on the circuit board.
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  #37  
Old 09-13-2019, 08:36 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Originally Posted by Yukoner View Post
See this is where it's interesting - I wonder if there's some truth to something like correct torquing of bolts, because dealers (I've spoken to two) don't seem to think there's a major issue with water pumps in the E9x series.
Torque matters in a lot of scenarios. This just isn't one of them. And again, the cracking issue I'm referring to is only regarding the N54 and its pastic-covered pump.
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  #38  
Old 09-13-2019, 12:26 PM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by dharmabmw View Post
I think failures may also have something to do with replacing the coolant as per the schedule
Interesting - this makes total sense, but I wonder if it's something that's overlooked by folks. I change the coolant in ANY used car I buy, pretty much right off the bat. My 328i, 335i and X1 all have nearly new coolant, the 335i and X1 having just been done this past month. Honestly, the cost from the dealer is pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things (~$200.00 USD if I recall correctly), so I'll get it done every few years as a preventative maintenance item. I do wonder how many other folks change theirs, and at what frequency.
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  #39  
Old 09-13-2019, 04:15 PM
dharmabmw dharmabmw is offline
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Originally Posted by Yukoner View Post
Interesting - this makes total sense, but I wonder if it's something that's overlooked by folks. I change the coolant in ANY used car I buy, pretty much right off the bat. My 328i, 335i and X1 all have nearly new coolant, the 335i and X1 having just been done this past month. Honestly, the cost from the dealer is pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things (~$200.00 USD if I recall correctly), so I'll get it done every few years as a preventative maintenance item. I do wonder how many other folks change theirs, and at what frequency.
I have had to replace failed plastic parts on the cooling system that looked like they were made out of wood or cork after many years of exposure to the coolant. I think the coolant chemistry changes radically as it ages and in combination with the high temperatures, starts to erode the plastic parts. I usually try to change my coolant every 3 years. Sometimes the cycle is shorter if I have replace parts or I remove the rad to clean out the fins or the spaces between the rad, oil cooler and AC condenser.
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  #40  
Old 09-16-2019, 12:19 PM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by dharmabmw View Post
I have had to replace failed plastic parts on the cooling system that looked like they were made out of wood or cork after many years of exposure to the coolant. I think the coolant chemistry changes radically as it ages and in combination with the high temperatures, starts to erode the plastic parts. I usually try to change my coolant every 3 years. Sometimes the cycle is shorter if I have replace parts or I remove the rad to clean out the fins or the spaces between the rad, oil cooler and AC condenser.
Hrmmmmmmm, even more interesting. Now I want to start a thread about how often folks change their coolant
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  #41  
Old 09-23-2019, 08:26 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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I replaced the water pump last week and that solved the coolant leak. I'm still leaking oil from the oil pan and/or rear main seal, but I think the other leaks are taken care of. Does anyone know how to tell an oil pan leak apart from a rear main leak? Also, I've been consistently getting the 29F3 low pressure fuel sensor code but just recently got the 29D0 cylinder 4 misfire code. It's a very noticeable misfire and it stayed on cylinder 4 after swapping coils. It sets the service engine light on the dash. I'm wondering if these codes are related. I've got spark plugs on the way (as well as a thin-walled 14mm socket) as I have no idea when they were last changed. I also ordered a low pressure fuel sensor. Do I have reason to believe these will take care of my issues?

Last edited by stewbets; 09-23-2019 at 08:27 AM.
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  #42  
Old 09-23-2019, 11:11 AM
Mark963 Mark963 is offline
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Originally Posted by dharmabmw View Post
I have had to replace failed plastic parts on the cooling system that looked like they were made out of wood or cork after many years of exposure to the coolant. I think the coolant chemistry changes radically as it ages and in combination with the high temperatures, starts to erode the plastic parts. I usually try to change my coolant every 3 years. Sometimes the cycle is shorter if I have replace parts or I remove the rad to clean out the fins or the spaces between the rad, oil cooler and AC condenser.
Many years ago, I'd read some articles from a shop owner about how Mercedes coolant yielded 0 corrosion on cooling parts like thermostats, when most coolants produced a degree of corrosion over time. There were also a number of reports of conventional American coolants with high pH's eating away plastic cooling parts over a few years.

I have the records from my 2011 (2010 production) and the coolant had never been touched. I tested it's pH somewhere in the low 7's (7.0 being dead neutral). I decided to replace the coolant with genuine BMW coolant which was very reasonably priced. I filled it with distilled water and ran it enough to warm and circulate it, then bled, then emptied and repeated 2 more times.

In total it used a gallon and half of a 1 liter bottle. After refilling the system and testing it to get about 52% coolant, I checked the pH and it was virtually unchanged. Many coolants have a pH around 10 (fairly alkaline) which I believe eats away at all the plastic over the years. FWIW, the 9 year old coolant I drained was extremely clean. While prep'ing for the procedure, I watched a few youtube videos and still feel ill watching what came out of some lovely cars. I believe the BWM coolant is among the best you can get today and you can get at least 5 years if not more. Watch out for using whatever you find at the parts store unless you really know what it is and how it compares.
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  #43  
Old 09-25-2019, 01:59 PM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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The misfire seems to be gone after changing plugs. The electrode was worn pretty badly on cylinder 4. Still waiting on the fuel sensor.

Last edited by stewbets; 09-25-2019 at 02:00 PM.
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  #44  
Old 09-26-2019, 07:22 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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RIP charge pipe. I was making a spirited run up the interstate on-ramp when I heard a very loud pop. The intake end of my charge pipe sheared clean off. My question is whether I should go BOV with the new pipe or stick with diverter valves.
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  #45  
Old 09-26-2019, 08:48 AM
pidge1114 pidge1114 is offline
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RIP charge pipe. I was making a spirited run up the interstate on-ramp when I heard a very loud pop. The intake end of my charge pipe sheared clean off. My question is whether I should go BOV with the new pipe or stick with diverter valves.
God those charge pipes are such trash. It's amazing that they replace them with the exact same parts, even under extended warranty.
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  #46  
Old 09-26-2019, 12:18 PM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
RIP charge pipe. I was making a spirited run up the interstate on-ramp when I heard a very loud pop. The intake end of my charge pipe sheared clean off. My question is whether I should go BOV with the new pipe or stick with diverter valves.
I went with the VRSF with HKS blow off valve It's loud, for sure. I like it, but then again, I want my 335i to be "loud".

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God those charge pipes are such trash. It's amazing that they replace them with the exact same parts, even under extended warranty.
TBH, when mine was replaced with an aftermarket one, it was perfectly fine. Over 100K miles and not a single issue with it
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  #47  
Old 09-30-2019, 09:44 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Well, I installed a bigger FMIC this weekend and started the long journey to the oil pan gasket. I'll be replacing the downpipes since I'm already dropping the subframe. Does anyone know what size the downpipe V-band bolt is? I broke one and would just like to replace the bolt if possible. I've also got my replacement charge pipe on the way. I sided with Yukoner and will go with a BOV setup.
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  #48  
Old 09-30-2019, 09:48 AM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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I sided with Yukoner and will go with a BOV setup.
I love my BOV, obnoxiously loud as it is
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  #49  
Old 10-04-2019, 08:07 AM
stewbets stewbets is offline
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Of course I found a pile of plastic debris laying on the bottom of the oil pan! This is normal, right? Anyone have an idea of what part may have grenaded and left this lovely surprise? There's also a thin metal ring that I found stuck in the oil pickup tube. The x-pattern piece in the upper left corner seems distinctive enough to identify, as does the lower left corner piece. From what I can see, the timing chain guides and tensioner look to be in good shape.
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:22 AM
dharmabmw dharmabmw is offline
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Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
Of course I found a pile of plastic debris laying on the bottom of the oil pan! This is normal, right? Anyone have an idea of what part may have grenaded and left this lovely surprise? There's also a thin metal ring that I found stuck in the oil pickup tube. The x-pattern piece in the upper left corner seems distinctive enough to identify, as does the lower left corner piece. From what I can see, the timing chain guides and tensioner look to be in good shape.
Jezuz! Nice jig saw puzzle. I suggest washing the parts with solvent to remove the oil and examining every part for numbers, until you can piece it together and figure out what the part is.

I hope crap hasn't reached the pump and gone beyond it......
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