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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #26  
Old 10-20-2019, 04:39 PM
Watchme Watchme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Thanks to all the feedback I've received here, I think I've convinced my mother to keep her car. It makes no financial sense to enter into a lease. Her body shop guy has recommended a mechanic he knows and trusts. I'm going to put together a summary of what I've gathered here and may post a few clarifying questions.

I would still love some guidance on how to proceed with the tires since replacing all 4 will be relatively expensive. I did learn that since she got this xDrive, she doesn't put snow tires on in the winter any more. If anyone has recommendations on a better tire, please advise. My mother is a grandmother and mostly drives like one, so not sure she needs a UHP tire. Just want a comfortable all-weather tire.
I love the Continental DWS all-seasons on mine. I have not had issues even in very heavy VT snow.
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  #27  
Old 10-20-2019, 04:56 PM
paramedic1079 paramedic1079 is offline
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Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Thanks to all the feedback I've received here, I think I've convinced my mother to keep her car. It makes no financial sense to enter into a lease. Her body shop guy has recommended a mechanic he knows and trusts. I'm going to put together a summary of what I've gathered here and may post a few clarifying questions.

I would still love some guidance on how to proceed with the tires since replacing all 4 will be relatively expensive. I did learn that since she got this xDrive, she doesn't put snow tires on in the winter any more. If anyone has recommendations on a better tire, please advise. My mother is a grandmother and mostly drives like one, so not sure she needs a UHP tire. Just want a comfortable all-weather tire.
Since your mother isn't driving all that much, I wouldn't bother to spend money on run-flats.
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  #28  
Old 10-20-2019, 09:17 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by Watchme View Post
I love the Continental DWS all-seasons on mine. I have not had issues even in very heavy VT snow.
Thx! Just to clarify, those are the Continental EXTREME CONTACT DWS 06, correct? Also confirmed that her doorjamb sticker has the same tire dimensions as what she has installed: 225/45R17.

Last edited by spamcop01; 10-20-2019 at 11:33 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2019, 06:25 AM
Watchme Watchme is offline
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Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Thx! Just to clarify, those are the Continental EXTREME CONTACT DWS 06, correct? Also confirmed that her doorjamb sticker has the same tire dimensions as what she has installed: 225/45R17.
Yup, looks like they updated the model name but tread pattern is the same and tire is the same as what they used to call simply "DWS".

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...r=Base%20Model
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2019, 09:53 AM
u.nanimous u.nanimous is offline
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  #31  
Old 10-21-2019, 05:46 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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OK gurus, based on all your valuable feedback, I'm putting together a summary for her body shop guy to take to the new mechanic. In addition to the tires, brakes (rotors & pads), shocks, water pump, and thermostat, what other things might you suggest be reviewed at the new shop? Would prefer to knock everything out in one visit if possible. Thanks again for all the helpful feedback!
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  #32  
Old 10-21-2019, 06:16 PM
paramedic1079 paramedic1079 is offline
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Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
OK gurus, based on all your valuable feedback, I'm putting together a summary for her body shop guy to take to the new mechanic. In addition to the tires, brakes (rotors & pads), shocks, water pump, and thermostat, what other things might you suggest be reviewed at the new shop? Would prefer to knock everything out in one visit if possible. Thanks again for all the helpful feedback!
Change the fluid in the differentials and transmission.
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  #33  
Old 10-21-2019, 06:36 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
...If STARTER speed is NOT increased by adding a Jumper Cable from the Chassis Ground Hex Stud to a bolt head on Block or Head, then add it to your "BUCKET" list.

George
Perhaps I just don't get it, but George said that if the starter speed is NOT increased, then add the grounding strap to the list of items to be addressed. But wouldn't the opposite be true: if by using a jumper and the starter speed IS increased, it suggests the ground strap isn't doing its job and needs to be replaced?

Can anyone clarify this for me? As the original subject of this thread suggested, please pardon my ignorance.
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2019, 06:50 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by paramedic1079 View Post
Change the fluid in the differentials and transmission.
Thanks, I'll try to track down when this was last done, however if these BMW's are anything like my Acura's, they require VERY specific fluids (e.g., only BMW branded that you must pay and arm and leg from the dealer for), correct?
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2019, 07:04 PM
paramedic1079 paramedic1079 is offline
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Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Thanks, I'll try to track down when this was last done, however if these BMW's are anything like my Acura's, they require VERY specific fluids (e.g., only BMW branded that you must pay and arm and leg from the dealer for), correct?
Mobil 1, Redline, or Royal Purple will work just fine. I used Royal Purple in my transmission with the original clutch at 205k miles and Mobil 1 for my differentials. I highly doubt they were ever changed. It's just good preventative maintenance.
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  #36  
Old 10-21-2019, 10:29 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
I'm a bit surprised that the DEALER didn't try to suggest the VCG (Valve Cover Gasket), Oil Pan Gasket, Serpentine Belt & Idler, etc. needed to be replaced, in addition to the Coolant Pump and Thermostat. Those are the "Legendary" weak knees on the N52 engine, and based upon other reports here, most dealers doing an inspection will tell you those items need replacing (regardless of actual seepage, leakage, wear, etc.).

George
Mom mentioned that she had an expensive dealer repair last November. Had her pull the paperwork and she conveyed that the dealer diagnosed, "the valve cover is cracked causing oil to leak onto the manifold and also found the oil filter housing gasket actively leaking down the front of the engine block." So per your suspicions, they already got her for the valve cover gasket...
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  #37  
Old 10-22-2019, 12:47 AM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
...George said that if the starter speed is NOT increased, then add the grounding strap to the ["BUCKET" List; ] [NOT] list of items to be addressed. [Rhymes with 'Bucket' & means "fuggedebowdit" ] But wouldn't the opposite be true: if by using a jumper and the starter speed IS increased, it suggests the ground strap isn't doing its job and needs to be replaced? [You are CORRECT SIR -- sorry for the attempted humor. The jumper cable from chassis ground to block quickly adds a supplemental ground cable. So if NO CHANGE in Starter Cranking Speed with supplemental ground cable, your existing ground strap is electrically sufficient to complete circuit back to battery (-) via chassis]...
Quote:
Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Mom mentioned that she had an expensive dealer repair last November. Had her pull the paperwork and she conveyed that the dealer diagnosed, "the valve cover is cracked causing oil to leak onto the manifold and also found the oil filter housing gasket actively leaking down the front of the engine block." So per your suspicions, they already got her for the valve cover gasket...
If the VCG was leaking oil onto the Exhaust Manifold/Cats and causing smoke, and if the OFHG was leaking with oil on front of engine (where it could get on Serpentine belt and cause it to deteriorate & shred), then BOTH of those were necessary repairs. I would NOT have expected that at 40,000 miles, even with a "then" 7- or 8-year-old vehicle. She must do a lot of short (3- to 5-mile) trips?

Sounds like you are getting it in good shape. If the "New Mechanic" has INPA or ISTA (BMW Diagnostic Software), I would suggest having him (1) take ~ 10 minutes to connect to the DME and Save the Screens (ScreenPrint SaveAs jpg file) of "History Memory" as well as Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data & Details. (2) While he is doing that, also take another ~ 2 minutes to save "Functional Jobs" Fault Memory, ALL Modules. He can send the jpg files to you as email attachments and you can post them here for "2nd opinions." There are about 20 different Electronic Control Modules in the Vehicle (e.g. Engine, Transfer Case, Fuel Pump, CAS, FRM, IHKA or A/C, etc.) and it would be helpful to know if there are any Fault Codes currently present in ANY module. Memory History in the DME (Engine Control Module) and EKP (Fuel Pump Module) is a History of Fault Codes that have occurred at any time since new vehicle, together with mileage/km at which Fault Code was saved in the Module. Even if the Fault Memory is cleared, the History Memory remains, UNLESS it too is cleared as a separate step.

I don't recall that you ever stated any fault codes related to the Coolant Pump. You did say someone stated: "PERFORMED SHORT TEST, FOUND FAULT CODES FOR ELECTRIC WATER PUMP, 9 TIMES" and I requested any information available on WHAT test was conducted, and WHAT Codes appeared. Generally the Electric Coolant Pump on the N52 or N51 engine (as opposed to N54/N55 Turbo) tends to last for 100,000 miles or more. Unless you have SPECIFIC Coolant Pump Codes in the range 2E81 through 2E85, I would want MORE information BEFORE changing the Coolant Pump & Thermostat at 46,000 miles. That is NOT an easy/quick job on an xDrive vehicle.

George
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  #38  
Old 10-22-2019, 07:53 AM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
If the VCG was leaking oil onto the Exhaust Manifold/Cats and causing smoke, and if the OFHG was leaking with oil on front of engine (where it could get on Serpentine belt and cause it to deteriorate & shred), then BOTH of those were necessary repairs. I would NOT have expected that at 40,000 miles, even with a "then" 7- or 8-year-old vehicle. She must do a lot of short (3- to 5-mile) trips?

I don't recall that you ever stated any fault codes related to the Coolant Pump. You did say someone stated: "PERFORMED SHORT TEST, FOUND FAULT CODES FOR ELECTRIC WATER PUMP, 9 TIMES" and I requested any information available on WHAT test was conducted, and WHAT Codes appeared. Generally the Electric Coolant Pump on the N52 or N51 engine (as opposed to N54/N55 Turbo) tends to last for 100,000 miles or more. Unless you have SPECIFIC Coolant Pump Codes in the range 2E81 through 2E85, I would want MORE information BEFORE changing the Coolant Pump & Thermostat at 46,000 miles. That is NOT an easy/quick job on an xDrive vehicle.

George
Thx, George! For all I know, she's been getting robbed this whole time. She did mention that she was first alerted to the "oil leak issue" by a shop closer to her house who recommended she take it to the dealer. She said that a few other things were included in the VCG bill. I've asked her to gather all repair & service-related records and mail them to me so I can reconstruct all this stuff.

I didn't press the 3rd party BMW shop about the codes knowing that we wouldn't be going back there. We're not going to do the coolant pump & thermostat unless this new shop can produce the diagnostic codes you've mentioned. I will ask if we can get the other data.

I'll keep you posted and thanks again!
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  #39  
Old 10-22-2019, 04:56 PM
cthiker cthiker is offline
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Honestly, buy it from her, or trade in and get her a new or newer lease with no headaches. Just seeing the first line to replace 2 tires, this is all wheel drive all four tires should be replaced not just two.
I've had 30 or so cars/trucks/suv's and the road slurry Connecticut uses when ice/snow destroys all metal, you will see many more problems mechanically,electrically and structurally. Many see significant rust/rot after 6-8 years unless they wash after every drive in the weather
Get her a three year low mileage lease and have zero problems
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  #40  
Old 10-22-2019, 05:27 PM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by cthiker View Post
Honestly, buy it from her, or trade in and get her a new or newer lease with no headaches. Just seeing the first line to replace 2 tires, this is all wheel drive all four tires should be replaced not just two.
I've had 30 or so cars/trucks/suv's and the road slurry Connecticut uses when ice/snow destroys all metal, you will see many more problems mechanically,electrically and structurally. Many see significant rust/rot after 6-8 years unless they wash after every drive in the weather
Get her a three year low mileage lease and have zero problems
Thanks for the note! I figure for every $500 we spend, that's a one-month lease payment, so even if we spend $2K this go round (less than the $3K down required on most leases), that's a 4-month break-even on a BMW N51 engine & tranny with less than 50K miles on them. Aside from the cost, there are two other things my mother HIGHLY values about her 2011:

1. It's a 6-speed manual. She's old school and still loves driving stick!
2. These new-fangled cars don't play CD's. I kid you not: she still checks out audio book CD's from the library and uses a flip-phone! I tried to get her on a smart phone, but that experiment failed after about 2 weeks!

What can I say: she's almost 74 and VERY set in her ways. After this car, my next hurdle is to get her on a computer that's running something newer than Windows 7 (released July 2009 for those keeping track at home).
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  #41  
Old 10-22-2019, 05:51 PM
satyaban satyaban is offline
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Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
Hi Folks! New to the forum and here's the situation: my elderly mother has a 2011 328i xDrive. It's a 6-speed manual with only 46K miles on it. She loves the car but has had terrible luck with it in that it's been side-swiped and run into several times. After the latest fiasco, her mechanic did a closer inspection and itemized about $4K in recommended repairs:

2 tires
Front brake job (includes replacing rotted rotors)
Rear shocks & shock mounts
Replace electric water pump & thermostat
Replace Ground Strap

She recently went to the dealer to see about leasing a smaller 2 series and they offered her $3K in trade. I told her I'd give her the $3K and spend another $1K to ship it out to me Arizona (she lives in New England).

I'm not a mechanic, but I do a fair amount of work on my Acura TL's. I'm trying to assess how difficult some of this work actually is. I wouldn't touch the brake job, but think I could do most of the rest. Here are some questions:

1. Where do you guys get the best prices on OEM & aftermarket parts
2. How the heck do I find the part number for this "ground strap"? It's green and braided and I can't seem to find it on any of the BMW Parts sites.

Feel free to tell me I'm nuts for trying some of this stuff, but the car looks and drives like new despite all the body work that's been done over the years. I just can't let a dealer have it for $3K.

Happy to post pics of the parts the mechanic identified as needing work.

Thanks in advance
Buy it and fix it, if for no other reason than the 6 speed 3 pedal transmission.
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  #42  
Old 10-22-2019, 06:10 PM
ken2116 ken2116 is offline
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As others have said, having properly matched (same model) tires with even tread depth all the way around is important in AWD cars - mismatched tires can cause much more woe than the cost of replacement. Tire circumference (as opposed to tread depth) is the most relevant parameter, which you can measure with thin wire or a flat measuring tape like two non-stretch sewing tapes fastened end to end. Check your car's spec, some specify that all tires should be within ~ 1/4in, while others spec. 1/2in. circumference.

Mounting tires of a different rating than the suspension was designed around conceivably could affect handling a bit, but I doubt it's dangerous. I've had decades of good experience on snow and ice in the Sierra with a variety of Michelin all season tires and I believe some Pirelli and Continental models test well on snow and ice as well - consult Consumer Reports testing-based tire reviews for current info.

If you are just replacing pads and maybe rotors, you still need to do a few things with fluid - mainly, while pressing the caliper pistons in to make room for new, thicker pads you want to avoid back flow potentially carrying gunk into the ABS system, and you don't want back flow flooding and spilling out of the master cylinder reservoir. Running a flex tube to an empty can or bottle and cracking open the bleeder when you start to press back the piston should be sufficient, just open it as you start to press and close it as you're stopping to avoid introducing air. As a precaution also remove a bit of fluid from the reservoir before you begin. When done you can add make up fluid to the reservoir, if needed, and then take it to an indy BMW shop for fluid replacement if that is past due - it's not terribly expensive and saves bleeding and messing with lots of fluid.
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  #43  
Old 10-23-2019, 10:58 AM
Andbham Andbham is offline
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Get some specific codes on the water pump. It is expensive to replace if you don't need to, but absolutely vital (fried engine) if you do need to. The codes will tell the story.
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  #44  
Old 10-24-2019, 01:52 AM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Dunno if I should keep this thread going or start a new one, but a few comments were made about how critical it is to have equal tire circumferences on xDrive's. This made me think: let's say one buys 4 new tires and halfway through their useful life, one of them blows out, fails, or is otherwise damaged and needs to be replaced. In order to follow the rule about keeping the circumference of all 4 tires within +/- 1% of each other or risk wear to the transfer case and differentials, does this mean you'd need to replace all four tires? This sounds rather extreme and expensive, but that's what's basically being said, right?

Or is another option to go looking for a used tire (same brand/model) that's within +/- 1% the circumference of the remaining 3 tires? My example assumes that after 50% of their useful life, the "used" tires are more than 1% smaller than a new tire (I don't pretend know anything about how much wear results in how much smaller a tire circumference). If anyone has insight into how much tread wear translates into how much smaller a tire circumference, I guess you could develop a formula that says, for example, after x/32nd's or mm's of remaining tread depth, you need to replace all 4 tires if any one of them needs to be replaced.

Perhaps I'm overthinking this, but it's actually your fault for bringing it up in the first place!!

One additional question: are there specific rules or recommendations about when (or if) tires should be rotated on an xDrive?
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  #45  
Old 10-24-2019, 09:29 AM
ken2116 ken2116 is offline
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- This may be covered in another thread, or you can start a new one.
- Circumference = 2Pi x Radius.
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  #46  
Old 10-24-2019, 09:56 AM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is offline
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AWD Tire/Wheel/Rotation Strategy

Quote:
Originally Posted by spamcop01 View Post
...Perhaps I'm overthinking this, but it's actually your fault for bringing it up in the first place!! One additional question: are there specific rules or recommendations about when (or if) tires should be rotated on an xDrive?
Tire Rack, and perhaps other tire retailers, has a lot of information on circumference specs for AWD vehicles, and apparently there is even equipment for grinding off tread from a new tire to more closely match circumference if a tire in a set that is ~ half-worn needs replacing. I would suggest reading info online to get an idea of what is possible & how important it is to keep circumference with a certain range, and then talk to a local retailer or two to see what they recommend & price.

What I am going to do when I need to replace my tires (in the next year, as they are ~ 80%+ worn) is Rotate 5 Identical wheels. Since the E9x has NO spare, and I don't personally have any issues with the Originally-installed "RSC" Runflats, I bought an identical 5th wheel and tire and will then keep the 5th wheel in the garage, rotated ~ every 10,000 miles so as to always have a spare with ~ same tread wear. Only problem with that approach is some say (at least on SOME tire models) that it is NOT good to change rotation direction of a tire, and if you are rotating 5 tires, you have to do that. Otherwise, rotate front to rear on SAME side to keep wear approximately even between front & rear.

Strategy if flat occurs is also important. I'm sticking with RSC Runflats, so can drive home to garage where spare is, if local as most of my driving is. I also carry a 12V airpump and a plug kit (NO jack), so unless I were to have a blowout (which I have NEVER had), or had sidewall damage requiring tire replacement (NEVER had that either) if its just a matter of the occasional nail or screw in the tread (all I have EVER had), the plug kit will fix it on the spot (I also carry pliers to pull object out of tire).

George
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  #47  
Old 10-24-2019, 10:43 AM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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You've gotten great advice here, but not a surprise.

I just want to add that you should at some point have the codes for the coolant pump rechecked. If they in fact exist, you should consider replacing it. Alternative is to wait until it craps out, and flatbed it to a mechanic for replacement. Never drive a BMW at all with a failed pump. Trouble is, you just can't tell with these era's Pierburg pumps -- could go 100, could go 60.

The X drive pump replacement is a bitch. Unlike the RWD (relatively easy), it's in a difficult to reach location. Easier if you remove the passenger wheel and fender liner, as well as the splash shield under the car. Did my N52 E91 and it was a real patience-eroding job. If you do it, stock up on several wrench u-joints and extensions to work the area. You have to drain the coolant, pretty much completely.

Indy will charge about $800 to $1100 for the job. Replacement kits from FCP are about $340 or so.
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  #48  
Old 10-24-2019, 11:04 AM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Originally Posted by ken2116 View Post
- This may be covered in another thread, or you can start a new one.
- Circumference = 2Pi x Radius.
Oh no you didn't just post the circumference formula! Do I seem that thick? Wait a second, I guess I could actually do the math with the Tire Rack data. Dammit, I am that thick and I don't want to do math!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
...What I am going to do when I need to replace my tires (in the next year, as they are ~ 80%+ worn) is Rotate 5 Identical wheels. Since the E9x has NO spare, and I don't personally have any issues with the Originally-installed "RSC" Runflats, I bought an identical 5th wheel and tire and will then keep the 5th wheel in the garage, rotated ~ every 10,000 miles so as to always have a spare with ~ same tread wear...

George
Glad to know that I haven't been the one overthinking this! Thx again, George!!
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  #49  
Old 10-25-2019, 12:51 AM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Tire Rack, and perhaps other tire retailers, has a lot of information on circumference specs for AWD vehicles, and apparently there is even equipment for grinding off tread from a new tire to more closely match circumference if a tire in a set that is ~ half-worn needs replacing.

George
As usual, George is spot on! Tire Rack has an article on this specific topic and actually offers this tire shaving service:

TIRE TECH: SHAVING TIRE TREADS TO MAINTAIN EQUIVALENT TREAD DEPTHS
FOR FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE & ALL-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES


https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=259

And from Consumer Reports:

With Tire Shaving, a Flat on an AWD Car No Longer Means Replacing All Four Tires

https://www.consumerreports.org/tire...ll-four-tires/

Last edited by spamcop01; 10-25-2019 at 01:18 AM.
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  #50  
Old 10-25-2019, 01:11 AM
spamcop01 spamcop01 is offline
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BTW, I went looking for the manufacturer's recommendation about matching tire requirements in the 2011 328i xDrive Owners Manual and found nothing. Is there another reference doc I should look at? I downloaded it from here:

https://carmanuals2.com/get/bmw-328i...s-manual-54683
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