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  #1  
Old 06-15-2019, 06:17 PM
imarichards imarichards is offline
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2011 328i wont start but cranks

I recently has ABS and brake lights. The lights didn't go even I changed the sensors and brake pads. Yesterday when I was driving my car suddenly slowed down and stopped. I tried to start the car but all I get is cranking. It wants to start but cannot. battery looks ok. So I towed it to bmw service. They are saying sensors are not sending CAS module with correct signal indicating correct wheel speed. They want to fix this first quoting close to $1000. They also said they found internal faults in CAS module but cannot fix this until sensor issue is fixed adding $1300 to fix. Do you all think this makes sense? I just want to be better educated and ask them right questions before moving forward. To me fixing sensors wont cost that much as each sensor was like $40 in their parts store. I am not sure if they are talking about ABS sensors or brake brake sensors.

Last edited by imarichards; 06-15-2019 at 06:19 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2019, 07:24 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imarichards View Post
I recently has ABS and brake lights. The lights didn't go even I changed the sensors and brake pads. [Mistake #1, NOT getting Fault Codes read BEFORE throwing parts at it. There are separate fault codes for an issue with each wheel speed sensor, and code for brake pad wear sensors. Advance Auto or Autozone will read codes FREE if YOU do NOT have a scan tool].

Yesterday when I was driving my car suddenly slowed down and stopped. [WHAT warning lights were on the Instrument cluster before the engine died?] I tried to start the car but all I get is cranking. It wants to start but cannot. battery looks ok. So I towed it to bmw service. [Major Mistake #2 -- NEVER tow an undiagnosed car to a DEALER (assuming NO Warranty) -- KA-CHING!!! ]

They are saying sensors are not sending CAS module with correct signal indicating correct wheel speed. [Get Dealer to do WRITTEN Estimate, stating all tests conducted, codes read, that support the DIAGNOSIS of the problem. Attach a scan of the estimate here for review.]

They want to fix this first quoting close to $1000. They also said they found internal faults in CAS module but cannot fix this until sensor issue is fixed adding $1300 to fix. Do you all think this makes sense? I just want to be better educated and ask them right questions before moving forward. To me fixing sensors wont cost that much as each sensor was like $40 in their parts store. I am not sure if they are talking about ABS sensors or brake brake sensors.
Frankly, without seeing the written estimate suggested above, which should include any fault codes read or nature & results of other tests conducted, I can't comment on WHAT might be wrong. Suffice it to say that the ONLY function I know of as far as CAS relationship to starting is signal to the starter to crank the engine (which is occurring) and synchronization between CAS & DME related to chip recognition in remote key. GENERALLY, I can see NOTHING that could suddenly fail in the CAS to make the engine (DME) shut down and NOT fire when the starter cranks the engine.

WHAT FAULT CODES are in DME MEMORY, at what mileage was each saved, and what is your mileage NOW? Those are the things we need to know, and those are things you should REQUEST nicely, and DEMAND steadfastly if NOT agreed to by Dealer. If Dealer won't do that for $200 or less, find an independent shop and tow it there (or home).

George
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Old 06-18-2019, 06:20 PM
imarichards imarichards is offline
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I got the diagnostics report from bmw attached to this with invoice. I was fixing to autozone but we left for vacation and after I got back this happened. They gave me some discount and I went ahead with replacing two sensors on the front. They said after reprogramming, the car started normally but asking to replace two sensors on rear as they just found faults with it. They have no idea why this was diagnosed initially. I paid for what they did and just took my car out of there. all the lights still remain. They are asking for a lot of money for rear sensors. I decided I will get it done through an another auto shop specializes in bmw service. They said the CAS errors are gone now after fixing the two sensors. They also fixed two recalls for free.
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2019, 08:51 PM
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BMW-North BMW-North is offline
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Find an Indy shop near you that specializes in BMW. The total of the dealers estimated repairs here for all those jobs is near the cars value.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:08 AM
imarichards imarichards is offline
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Can you provide any feedback from Diagnostics?
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:09 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imarichards View Post
Can you provide any feedback from Diagnostics?
You said in your first post that you wanted to be "better educated" and ask "right questions", presumably so you could deal with "Dealer." That is an admirable pursuit (to be better educated ;-) and more of us should try that. I'm certainly willing to try to improve your concepts of how to diagnose a fault in the vehicle, and what to try to do yourself as opposed to paying ridiculous amounts of money to a Dealer. As Ian states, better to find a trusted Independent BMW specialist (NOT a Dealer) when you need help with vehicle that is "out-of-warranty."

What concerns me is that you have NOT provided ANY description of any warning lights or fault codes that would give ANY CLUE as to why the vehicle quit running and would only sputter upon attempted restart. Did you run out of gas? It wouldn't be the first time, and we need you to be honest with us before we can help.

NONE of the 22 fault codes still in Module Memory, particularly the 7 currently present, suggest any reason the engine would have shut off AND NOT fired when the starter cranked or turned the engine, EXCEPT the EKP Amps Fault (6294) which occurred at 163,624 km (101,671 miles), along with 7 other electrical faults. The terms you use suggest that the starter DID crank or turn the engine after it stalled, and that the engine "sputtered" or tried to run during cranking (at least at first) but would NOT run normally. If that is what you actually experienced, it is consistent with lack of fuel delivery from the pump in the tank to the fuel rail, and being "out of gas" is the most logical explanation if NO Fuel pump or DME (Engine Control Module/ Digital Motor Electronics) codes.

However, since you had SEVEN (7) other electrical fault codes ALSO saved at 163,624 km or 101,671 MILES, there may have been an electrical issue in the vehicle that caused the fuel pump to quit pumping. You have cut the top of the Invoice pages off, but I would be willing to bet that the mileage at "Intake" of the towed vehicle into the Dealer's records is listed as 101,671 Miles. HOWEVER, the ISTA readout you provided clearly shows Odometer reading of 163,631 km = 101676 miles (5 miles MORE than when Fuel Pump quit). So perhaps if you or the dealer would explain those discrepancies, we can get to an honest assessment of the situation.

It takes an extremely HONEST shop to NOT take advantage of someone who appears NOT to understand his vehicle well enough to know if he is being fed BS or not. The current administration has done little to improve upon that human tendency, but then I digress.

You appear to be confusing Wheel Speed Sensors (ABS & DSC systems) with the Brake Pad Wear Sensors. From your description of work YOU did in "changing the sensors and brake pads" it would appear that you did NOT do anything to the DSC/ABS system, but simply changed the Pad Wear Sensors on the Left Front & Right Rear. If you had ABS/DSC warning icons on the Instrument Cluster (or still do) that has NOTHING to do with the work YOU did.

You were "gouged" to say the least with Dealer bill of $734.94 ($287.28 parts & $447.66 labor) to change the two front Wheel Speed Sensors. Online Parts suppliers such as Autohaus sell replacement sensor (BMW Part# 34526870075 per your invoice) for $30 or less each:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/B5-34526870075

Here is the TIS procedure for replacing the REAR wheel speed sensors if you need to do that and want to do it yourself (unless your gross hourly pay is >$300 per hour, you should DIY ;-)
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nts/1VnYy9aN9z

The Rear Wheel Speed Sensors are different & a bit more expensive than the front:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/k...sensor,%20rear

There's a LOT more detail in the "Diagnostics" you provided, but lets start with answers to questions raised already. A jpg of your Diagnostics is attached for those too lazy to download the pdf you created

George
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:33 PM
Tekken24/7 Tekken24/7 is offline
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