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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #451  
Old 12-11-2018, 11:54 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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That^^^^
Just don't forget to use high temp antiseize on the threads. Stainless parts are notorious for "picking", or tearing tiny burrs off the mating parts. Once that starts, the parts are ruined
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Last edited by hornhospital; 12-11-2018 at 08:09 PM.
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  #452  
Old 12-12-2018, 10:48 AM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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Thanks for tip, Ken. I did get some of the stuff.
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  #453  
Old 12-30-2018, 12:14 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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Finished putting together my LSD, all three seals replaced and filled with 1.8q of oil. It's ready to go back in after I remove the rear subframe, weld the reinforcements and reinstall it.



I got the transmission out, cleaned it up, replaced the front and rear seals and drained the oil.



Started to install the new clutch but the new flywheel won't go on. It doesn't have a hole drilled for the 14.5mm dowel.
EDIT: According to the manufacturer and others, the dowel is not critical. I went ahead and installed the flywheel without the dowel. There is a tiny bit of slop between the bolts and the holes. To ensure that the bolts don't have to do all the work of holding the flywheel in place, I threaded all of the bolts until they were almost contacting the flywheel, then clocked the flywheel clockwise to take up the slack and tightened it down. Probably not critical but made me feel better.

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  #454  
Old 01-06-2019, 12:58 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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More stuff done:
  • Clutch installed
  • Transmission - seals replaced, filled with oil and installed
  • Short shifter modified and installed
  • Rear subframe removed and cleaned up

Trans back home. Wrote the torque specs for the clutch up on the tunnel so I don't have to remember or look them up again. Should have put the specs for the bell housing up there too (three different bolt sizes and three different torque specs).



The short shifter I ordered comes in either threaded or slotted (like OEM). I ordered the latter before I looked at how much BMW style shift knobs are. Rather than send it back, I simply cut it and welded a 13mm threaded section on it to accept this $15 8-ball knob. The shifter itself was $21 and it is fantastic (so far). Even if it wears out in a season, it's worth $36.



I'm doing the rear subframe reinforcements in two stages. I removed the upper and lower control arms. Then removed the subframe (rear diff carrier). The only real difficulty was the driver side front bolt on the subframe to body. The nut was seized and I didn't want to apply heat and destroy the bushing. That sumbitch required a 18" breaker bar, a 24" cheater pipe and every ounce of my strength on every single quarter turn to get it out.

I got it out but I still ended up having to apply heat to get the nut off. With it on the ground, I was able to pour water behind the washer to protect the bushing somewhat while I torched the nut. Still fought me quite a bit and ended up breaking the bolt. I had to order two new bolts and nuts, which will take a couple weeks to get here. I also removed that bulbous "vibration damper" on the front of the carrier and chucked it in the bin.

So, I'll prep and weld the subframe reinforcements first. Then I'll reinstall the subframe and control arms (including new adjustable lowers). Then I'll detach the rear trailing arm and do that reinforcement.

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  #455  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:32 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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Need some power steering help

Decided to replace my leaking power steering reservoir and ran into a mystery...

This first pic is of all the parts I removed. Just the reservoir and the supply and return hoses.



Below is a close up of the small parts that fell into the drain pan. I could only hear parts hitting the pan. I didn't see them. So, what is that little tube next to the red arrow? I looked up the parts diagram for the steering system and I don't see it. It fits inside the bolt that goes into the steering rack but I'm not sure that's where it's supposed to go.

Also, what would be the best hose clamps to use for this application? I'd rather not have to deal with the OEM style crimp-on clamps as it means I'll have to buy the special tool.

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  #456  
Old 01-12-2019, 05:09 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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The washers are "crush washers". They go on the banjo bolt, one against the pump and one under the head. The other banjo bolt will have the same arrangement. Use the best quality hose you can find. Best ones are those with the edged rolled up slightly so they can't cut into the hose. The barb fitting: does it have a smaller than normal (for the size of the fitting) hole through it? Some power steering hoses supposedly have a restrictor in them, although I've never seen one.
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  #457  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:34 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
The washers are "crush washers". They go on the banjo bolt, one against the pump and one under the head. The other banjo bolt will have the same arrangement. Use the best quality hose you can find. Best ones are those with the edged rolled up slightly so they can't cut into the hose. The barb fitting: does it have a smaller than normal (for the size of the fitting) hole through it? Some power steering hoses supposedly have a restrictor in them, although I've never seen one.
Thanks, Ken. I knew about the crush washers but that barb fitting has me stumped. It does have a tiny hole through it lengthwise. I thought it might be a restrictor but wasn't sure. It's symetrical and fits neatly into the banjo bolt. I just can't understand why it wouldn't be in the parts diagram. The previous owner didn't strike me as the kind of person that would request something like a restrictor in the power steering.

I might just leave it out for the time being. It's easy enough to put back if I find the steering feels bad.

My other main concern is finding the right kind of hose clamps. The ones that were on there were clearly chosen and applied by a chimpanzee. I was wondering about using fuel line hose clamps but they don't come in a large enough size. The large hose is 24mm so maybe a 1" clamp will be fine. But the chimp used the same size on the smaller hose and that didn't turn out so well.
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  #458  
Old 01-13-2019, 02:44 AM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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I did a little more research and it looks like it is a restrictor. I believe it goes in the soft part of the return hose, not the banjo. From what I've seen, the aftermarket suppliers don't supply the restrictor with new return hoses and they get lost easily. It must change the steering feel quite a bit as at least one person was desperate to find one.
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  #459  
Old 01-13-2019, 02:17 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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I haven't been in the hoses in Ashlyn (M3), but neither Elvira (93 325is) nor Bebe (95 318is) have restrictors.
The hose clamps you want to use are like the one pictured. Closed screw threads, heavy band material, and rolled edges. Pelican (and probably everyone else) has them in a 25 to 30 something mm size range.Click image for larger version

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__________________
Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13
buying a ratty example (of a BMW) is a parasitic relationship.(and you ain't the mosquito) 7pilot
Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Bimmerfest Site Moderator
BMW-CCA #441426

1993 325is M3 clone"Ashlyn"; 1993 325is "Elvira"; 1985 635CSi "Katja"; 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"; 1987 325is "Odette";1995 318is"Bebe"

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  #460  
Old 01-13-2019, 08:15 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimgood View Post
The part being pointed to here is indeed a flow restrictor, and is intended to help minimize aeration of the fluid. I would leave it in, particularly since you are building a race car where the demands on the steering system will be high.

They've probably gone missing in most E36s over the years because they tend to fall out when replacing the hoses. My '98 328is had one in place when I replaced the hoses years ago. Don't know if BMW installed them on the OBD1 cars, but I suspect they did.

The factory installed them about midway along the hose and secured with a band-clamp so they don't fall down to the bottom.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 01-13-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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  #461  
Old 01-14-2019, 10:45 AM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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Thanks for the info, guys! That's really helpful.
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  #462  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:06 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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A quick update on the power steering flow restrictor...the hose I bought DOES have a restrictor in it already. I got it on Amazon and the seller was Uro Parts. Part number is 32411141714 (OEM part number). The way to tell, assuming the picture the seller shows of the actual hose, is to look for a clamp mid-way along the soft line.
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  #463  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:20 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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I finally welded in my rear subframe reinforcements. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I was really concerned that there would be a lot of undercoating to remove. In my case, it was very thin to non-existent. I was able to scrap it off by hand using a welding scraper. Then I hit it with a 4" angle grinder with a twisted wire wheel on it. Worked great.

I was also concerned about whether the plates and the car body were going to be different thicknesses. The metal at the subframe mounts is thicker than the rest of the body. No issues burning through anywhere.

The other logistical thing that had me concerned was welding in proximity to the fuel tank. I really didn't want to drain and remove the tank. Instead, I put a transmission jack under it, dropped the straps and lowered the rear edge about 5 or 6 inches. This gave me enough room to put a welding blanket over the top of the tank and keep it far enough away from the heat.



Here's how I crammed the blanket over the tank.



I used a couple of pieces of roof flashing (you can get this stuff at most hardware stores) to shield the plastic filler pipe while I welded the passenger side rear plate. The rubber part of the filler pipe is close to the front PS subframe mount but it's flexible enough to hold out of the way while welding. Then I just crammed the wooden handle of a wire brush behind it to keep it away from the weld while it was cooling. I didn't burn the house down so I guess it all worked okay.

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  #464  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:30 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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One last word about rear subframe bushings. I made a mess of things with one stubborn bushing. I heated the housing but it just would not budge. Even set the damn bushing on fire. The OEM tool actually distorted and tore a piece out of the rim where the bushing seats. I had to repair it with a patch.

I ended up using my 20-ton press. I found that a 4" long piece of 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe worked to support the subframe while the bushing was being pressed out. I also used about a 6" piece of my leftover 1.75" roll cage tubing between the press and the bushing. It worked but was not the ideal size.
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  #465  
Old 05-25-2019, 04:31 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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I've been neglecting my duties in this thread! Let's do some updates:

In March, I raced at VIR for the NASA March Madness event. I registered in ST6. Technically, my car is not eligible for ST6 because the displacement limit in that class is 2449cc (the 323is is 2494cc). Interestingly, the HP limit in the class is 168 or less, which is exactly the output of the 323is. I appealed to the guys in the ST6 class and the series director and everyone was fine with me running in the class as long as I could stay within the target power to weight ratio of 18:1.

So, with my target weight of 2820 lbs, I needed to keep my average WHP at around 155. I dynoed last fall at around 165 so I put in a 54mm restrictor and that got me to 155 (18.19:1).

I was still barely competitive but it was mostly due to not being able to put the power down coming out of tight turns. I was getting nothing but wheelspin from the inside tire, even after switching to the LSD. This was really frustrating. I did manage to pull off 3rd in the Sat. race, 2nd in the Sun. morning Beast of the East race and 2nd in the Sun. afternoon race. Even with that, I was 5 seconds a lap slower than 1st place. On the straights, the acceleration between my car and the others in class was very similar. Coming out of corners, they were walking away easily. The one bright spot was that the gearing (3.15:1 final drive) was absolutely perfect for VIR.

My assumption was that the junkyard LSD needed to be refreshed so, after that event, I set about researching how to rebuild it and do the 3-disc conversion. I did that and thought I'd be all set for the April Summit Point event.

What a let down. At SP, it was still giving me the one-tire-fire. I struggled through the morning practice and then qualifying. I could not believe that it was the differential. It had to be that the inside tire was lifting in corners.

The answer should have been obvious. Every time I jacked up the car, I would get very little suspension droop in the rear (maybe 1/2"?). I had even commented on it to someone at VIR. I just thought it was a quirk of the TRM suspension.

So, I jacked up the rear, removed the wheels and took a look. I had never really understood about how the threaded shock bodies should be set up. So I decided to see how much thread was inside the body and started unscrewing them. I don't recall how much it was but I unscrewed it about 4" and still had plenty to go. So I decided to put them back where they were and then add 1" of droop. That little change fixed about 90% of the problem. I ran the rest of the weekend like that but the car was still not set up right. The ride height was visibly and measurably wonky but I wasn't really prepared to mess with it so decided to leave it alone.

I finished out the weekend with another 3rd place finish on Sat., 1st place in the Beast of the East race and I think 2nd in the Sun. race. But we only had 3 of us in my class.

Once I got home, I went through the set up again. I set the ride height so that it would be even with my weight in it. I set the camber back to 1.5 degrees in the rear because I was seeing more inside tire wear. Pics of my car in corners showed that 2.5 degrees was completely unnecessary. Once that was done, I reset the toe to 0mm in the rear. I left the front alone at about .5mm toe out (1mm total toe). I think I would rather it be 0 but I was too lazy to mess with it. I also don't have scales so it's just going to have to be good enough.

I was supposed to go to NASA Hyperfest down at VIR last weekend. On my way down there, the rear brakes in my truck started seizing up. I couldn't get anyone to work on it on short notice (it needed new rear calipers). So I had to sit that one out. Now, you'd think with a trailer full of tools, I could have at least messed with the calipers enough to get them unstuck. Believe me, I wanted to. Want to know what stopped me? I had nothing in my trailer with which I could pull the hub caps off. It's a dually and the damn things require something like a bent flat head screw driver to hook them and pull them off. I was afraid to try to bend one of my screwdrivers for fear of just breaking it. Anyway, that's a lesson learned as I now realize that I wouldn't even be able to change a flat tire if I had one.

Next up is Summit Point the weekend of 6/8-6/9. I'm still running on the same Toyo R888s I've had since last August. They're getting a little tired but they'll have to do.

Here are a few short video clips from the races:
VIR ST6 race start:

VIR Battle for 3rd:

VIR Taking second early in the race (funny):


Summit Point - Close call in T5:


Summit Point - Going off in T10:
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  #466  
Old 05-25-2019, 05:36 PM
jimgood jimgood is offline
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BTW, I documented the LSD 3-disc conversion in a thread on GRM here:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../152260/page1/

There are already a couple of good Youtube videos of the process, so those are good references. There are just a couple of things in my thread that I cover that might make things easier for noobs.
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