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Old 12-21-2016, 03:36 PM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Reverse failure

2007 328xi SULEV automatic with 147k
My reverse randomly stopped working about a month ago with no lights or warning. I've been driving the car since then with no other issues.
Dealership diagnosed it as reverse failure and want to replace the whole transmission ($5,500 for used transmission, front drive shaft, and vtg service)
I've read about the gear selector shaft and a possible solenoid failure that could cause this issue. The dealership ran a test with "ISTA" and said it was neither of those problems.
I'm wondering if that test method is 100% conclusive or if I should get second opinion(s)?

Thanks,
Ryan
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2016, 04:10 PM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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Not sure if ISTA can detect the broken shaft. Start by dropping the pan and taking a look. You have the GM right? ZFs have a black plastic bottom piece. In general dealers don't fix things inside the transmission. A transmission specialist shop is a better place to go.
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:08 PM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Response

Thanks for the reply
I was going to investigate myself but didn't want to waste my time if the reverse is gone..not to mention it's been really cold lately.

Last edited by snowpunk84; 12-21-2016 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:17 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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ISTA will not be able to test for that. It's a mechanical linkage basically and there is no test plan for it.

Pretty good bet its the select rod but only way to tell is by pulling the pan
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:33 PM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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So drain the fluid, drop the pan and I'll be able to tell? or do I have to remove the valve body?

Man this would be great news if it ends up being the issue.
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:26 AM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:41 AM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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The above video appears to be the valve body. It looks like the part can be changed by just dropping the pan. Finding transmission repair info is more difficult than other issues. When searching for no reverse 328 issues most that pop up are the older E46 GM 5 speed era. E90 6 speed GM reverse issues are completely different. The good news is they look easier to fix. You may want to research the model number of your transmission so you can get better search results. In my case, searching ZF 6HP19 got me better results than "325i transmission".
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:54 AM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Repair guide

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/plugins/servlet/mobile#content/view/117866918

I found this page that seems pretty detailed. My only concern is I read somewhere that you have to remove, or at least disconnect, the front drive shaft on all wheel drive models to get access to the transmission fill plug. Also the dealership wanted to replace my driveshaft, so maybe they were concerned with the existing shaft still working after disassembling?

I'm trying to have this all planned out since it is my daily driver.
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Old 12-22-2016, 04:02 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowpunk84 View Post
I found this page that seems pretty detailed. My only concern is I read somewhere that you have to remove, or at least disconnect, the front drive shaft on all wheel drive models to get access to the transmission fill plug. Also the dealership wanted to replace my driveshaft, so maybe they were concerned with the existing shaft still working after disassembling?

Well, did they say why? Technical explanation please - don't depend on a Service Advisor for this - they're wannabe's at best.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:28 AM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
Well, did they say why? Technical explanation please - don't depend on a Service Advisor for this - they're wannabe's at best.
They said the that the rubber joints (u-joints) were "looking bad" and there was a lot of corrosion dust coming from the drive shaft.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:59 AM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Originally Posted by snowpunk84 View Post
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/plugins/servlet/mobile#content/view/117866918

I found this page that seems pretty detailed. My only concern is I read somewhere that you have to remove, or at least disconnect, the front drive shaft on all wheel drive models to get access to the transmission fill plug. Also the dealership wanted to replace my driveshaft, so maybe they were concerned with the existing shaft still working after disassembling?

I'm trying to have this all planned out since it is my daily driver.
I just read through a DIY and all the comments for changing out transmission filter and fluid and there as no mention of having to interact with the drive shaft so maybe i'm ok. There are no symptoms suggesting anything is wrong with the drive shaft (just old)

Last edited by snowpunk84; 12-22-2016 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:05 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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You don't need to do anything with the driveshaft unless its awd. The front driveshaft has to be removed.

You can see the selector rod without dropping the valve body but you need to drop the valve body to replace it. Make sure to replace the bridge seal and sealing sleeves as well while the mech unit is down.
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:05 PM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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You are going to need to do some recon work to be sure you can get to the fill plug. In my case, the belly pan has fallen off so I was able to get my phone under there to take a few pictures.

Last edited by smassey321; 12-23-2016 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 12-22-2016, 04:33 PM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
You don't need to do anything with the driveshaft unless its awd. The front driveshaft has to be removed.

You can see the selector rod without dropping the valve body but you need to drop the valve body to replace it. Make sure to replace the bridge seal and sealing sleeves as well while the mech unit is down.
It is all wheel drive, any diy guide for the whole job?
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:33 AM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
Not sure if ISTA can detect the broken shaft. Start by dropping the pan and taking a look. You have the GM right? ZFs have a black plastic bottom piece. In general dealers don't fix things inside the transmission. A transmission specialist shop is a better place to go.
My thoughts also
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:22 AM
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An affirmation of thoughts above: dealers often don't repair or rebuild starters or transmissions, they just replace them. I would NOT depend on a dealer for this.
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Old 12-25-2016, 07:26 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowpunk84 View Post
They said the that the rubber joints (u-joints) were "looking bad" and there was a lot of corrosion dust coming from the drive shaft.

A-yessssss. Well. Not the definitive response we hoped for. Can they be much more specific re: need to purchase new part[s]?

Note that most underbelly parts "look bad" this time o'year.


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Old 03-03-2017, 07:38 AM
snowpunk84 snowpunk84 is offline
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Update

Hey everyone. Just wanted to get an update in here, sorry for the delay.

I was able to replace the selector shaft rod per these instructions:
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...rod,+replacing

I didn't have to remove the drive shaft as it was on the opposite side of where the fill plug was located. In fact, the drain and fill plug are more located on the back side, so I'm not sure why you'd ever have to worry about the drive shaft unless your are dropping more stuff to get better access.

The fill plug was very difficult to remove, so I ended up welding a wrench onto the plug and just replacing it afterward. I couldn't remove the Mechatronic electrical connector sealing sleeve or the strainer seal at the top part of the filter, so I ended up just leaving the existing parts, with no leaks as of now. I've been driving for 3 weeks now ~300 miles per week, and a road trip of about 400 miles.

The repair was pretty easy other than those problems, although a little messy. I ended up replacing about 1.5 quarts of transmission fluid. I used Valvoline max life full synthetic automatic transmission fluid.

I still haven't replaced the drive shaft, as there was red corrosion around the u-joints but didn't appear to be much play in the u-joints. Plus there are no other symptoms present while driving (noise, slack, etc.).

Overall, I'm very happy with the results, as I saved at least $4k+ compared to the dealership just replacing everything. I probably won't be returning to that dealership, which is unfortunate because I felt like I had a fairly good relationship established. Thanks for the info and comments!

Last edited by snowpunk84; 03-03-2017 at 07:40 AM. Reason: thanks
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:37 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Nice glad you got it sorted. On my 330xi, the fill plug is right behind the front driveshaft.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:43 PM
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dannyb1027 dannyb1027 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowpunk84 View Post
2007 328xi SULEV automatic with 147k
My reverse randomly stopped working about a month ago with no lights or warning. I've been driving the car since then with no other issues.
Dealership diagnosed it as reverse failure and want to replace the whole transmission ($5,500 for used transmission, front drive shaft, and vtg service)
I've read about the gear selector shaft and a possible solenoid failure that could cause this issue. The dealership ran a test with "ISTA" and said it was neither of those problems.
I'm wondering if that test method is 100% conclusive or if I should get second opinion(s)?

Thanks,
Ryan
I fixed it myself for $285.


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