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X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)
First generation BMW X1 availbe as a X1 28i with either sDrive (RWD) or xDrive (AWD) or the US exclusive I6 N55 powered X1 35i xDrive.

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Old 02-21-2019, 10:44 AM
wvadam wvadam is offline
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Direct Injection Paranoia?

So maybe I am getting paranoid looking into the issue with all direct injection gasoline engines where in the old days gas used to be injected before the intake valves and thus cleaned any deposits off the valves making them self cleaning and now with the injectors are inside the cylinder like a diesel and "some" are having big issues with burnt oil deposits on the intake injectors caked on which can reduce power and efficiency through poor turbulent and restricted air flow, so it is claimed.

Obviously DI alone does not cause the issue without oil also getting on the valves. Port injection only prevents the problem if it occurs. You can also put fuel additives in that "may" help clean the valves further with port injection. That is another topic. How do we prevent this problem happening with our DI engines? and indeed your next car may also have a DI engine, that is to say if it is not electric by that time.

I have seen people on youtube paying $1200 (usd?) for walnut blasting after removing the entire intake manifold etc. and I think that is insane to have to do that and that was a vw/audi, when you pull in with a BMW they will want to keep the car for 3 days, tell you why it is more difficult, and charge you $2000 out the door. And don't forget you need an oil change because it is black, air filter because it is dirty, and cabin air filter because your car smells!

I have a borescope and my plan is next week to remove the MAP sensor (?) on the intake manifold and insert the camera and have a look at my valves. I will post pics if anyone is interested. I did change the plugs recently which the dealer had previously done 40k miles ago. They looked nearly new with only slight discoloration. They would probably have lasted a lot longer that what BMW recommends for change intervals. I have also researched that DI engines need plug changes much more frequently than port injection. I am not sure why this is or if it is related to the oil issue as well but I had no oil on the plugs.

It seems like the primary culprit (please chime in opinions about this) is really the oil getting onto the valves in the first place through a broken or weak PCV valve. One guy said he had to replace his entire valve cover AND do the walnut blasting. As far as I know, our PCV valve is not available from BMW and can only be purchased as part of the valve cover and that is a big job and certainly not to be done as preventative maintenance. I have found an aftermarket replacement PCV valve made by dorman which I have to admit I am not thrilled about. Is it better? worse? if the current one is working am I safer not replacing it with unknown aftermarket parts?

So far I like a product I have seen called CRC GDI IVD intake valve cleaner claiming 150x more concentrated than fuel additives (which we can assume they mean the additives used for port injection engines) I am going to try performing their process and spraying it directly into the intake manifold at idle.

I started looking into this when I drove a family members Audi A3 2.0T quattro and notice that although it had 220 peak hp instead of my 241, it felt WAY more throttle responsive and powerful getting on the hwy, passing, everything. It is of course basicly new and I have over 100k miles now waranteed and service plan done by bmw up until last year. I have never drove another x1 of my year but the little audi blew my car out of the water and way better gas mileage as well. They are different cars and I know it is not a completely fair comparison but that is what got me thinking. I did once have a rental new x1, the fwd biased, lower spec hp 2.0L but don't recall seeing a difference with that, but I also know car rental companies here put speed limiters on their cars and maybe limit the throttle too so they don't get abused. In hindsight I wish I had made a comparison then but I was more concerned about my car in the shop for wheel bearing and exhaust under warrantee and the thrill of driving a brand new version of my car was a distraction.


Background:
I currently do not have any smoke or oil top up issues but do have high mileage (over 100k miles) I did change the ZF8 lifeguard transmission fluid and pan at 100k miles (5L of the total 7 or so) and the transfercase fluid which did not have a drain plug and was only able to get about half of the fluid pumped out and replaced. I want my car to last a long time and prefer regular maintenance to expensive repairs. I do most work myself now in so far as what a technically inclined person can do in his garage.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2019, 02:28 PM
mreric mreric is offline
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i have been thinking of doing a CRC service as well,

if you do it, give us some tips of how you did it and photos result of before and after.

one of the things that causes carbon build up and the oil you use.
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Old 02-21-2019, 02:44 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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You'd want to change your oil after using the treatment. That stuff will get into the oil and could break down additives in the oil, and maybe even attack rubber seals and liquid gaskets (Permatex).

A lot of that oil that gets to the intake valves, most of it in a healthy engine, is evaporated oil sucked out of the engine and drawn into the intake system for burning to reduce emissions.

The current BMW oils made by Shell, and Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic (made by Shell) are made from natural gas (gas to liquid or "GTL"). GTL base stock synthetic oil is less volatile that other types of synthetic base stock. Less evaporation, less oil vapor getting to those hot intake valves, sticking, and slowly burning/baking into place.
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:19 PM
wvadam wvadam is offline
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Ok well curiosity got the best of me and it was a bit warmer today so I went out and put the borescope in the MAP sensor hole. Super easy. I was going to make a DIY but basicly so simple if you look at the diagram, the sensor shown is held in by 2 T25 torx screws barely even hand tightened. The gasket was so snug it was more difficult to wiggle out than anything else. The engine cover didn't even need removing, just open the hood, remove the 2 screws, and wiggle the sensor out carefully (but it is robust thick plastic, not overly delicate)

I snaked my borescope down to see the condition of the oil and valves and I was not overly surprised or concerned by what I saw. Pics are below

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hR...gumCQj--8QQB6B

Typical oil type residue on the cast aluminum of the head because of the surface roughness acting like a sponge. The black part visible at the top of the picture is the black plastic intake manifold. Has a bit of sheen from oil like everything else in an intake. Interestingly, the machined areas of the aluminum head show now oil sticking at all and show a reflective shiney surface.

Now 2 Pictures of the valve luckily it was the open valve to see the contrast and gain more observations.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ft...kpazVog5SKgP37
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1an...nd-Z3hboiwYnbg

The valve stem itself has caked on carbon deposits which I was not happy about but honestly on a car likely past half its lifespan that I expect I don't think this is terrible. The good takeaway is that the upper part of the stem is still shiney and the seal is still in good shape to keep it that way. I was also happy looking at the disc area of the lower valve itself how it has no caked on carbon and more of a charcoal grey color than a black cake. I would compare the appearance to that of a sparkplug steel that has just been changed where it simply looks dirty. The camera is also low quality so doesn't help.

It is an internal combustion engine burning gasoline so I was not expecting to see silver colored new valves. Definitely not in need of walnut blasting. I will however try the CRC when the weather gets warmer for peace of mind.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:30 PM
mreric mreric is offline
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It does not look bad.

I have been thinking of doing the CRC service myself, but did not know what is the best way,
if you do it, do you mind maybe doing a write up on where is the best way to spray it, if you do a video i think you can get lots of view. there is not many maint video on youtube

Last edited by mreric; 02-23-2019 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:52 PM
wvadam wvadam is offline
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mreric, thank you for comment. I will wait for warmer weather and take my time. I was freezing still up here. What I would like to do is have the valves closed and fill the recess with the fluid and let it dissolve (I hope) the carbon. the difficulty is getting the spray on the stuff. Really though I am so glad that at higher mileage past the warranty that is all that is there(much less than the youtube catastrophes that get attention). The youtube videos are almost scare tactics showing terrible gunk clogging everything. For me with a high mileage engine, yes I accept some decrease in performance. How can you expect otherwisel

I will let you know how it goes in the spring. Honestly for $15 a bottle if you are concerned about this like me then that is a cheap peace of mind and if done sooner than me, the better. A bit of carbon cake on the rod portion of the valve doesn't scare me though, but I don't want to let it progress to what the catastrophe videos you see ( although you never seem to say that it caused engine failure)

I am not sure how it will work out spraying into that hole with the absolute manifold pressure sensor disconnected but hope to weaken the carbon bonding the crap to the valve.

Nothing to complain about, but my curiosity sensor is triggered lol.
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Old 02-23-2019, 07:11 PM
mreric mreric is offline
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i was thinking of just following the instruction and spraying into the Throttle body...
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Old 02-24-2019, 12:17 AM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
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So did I miss what engine oil you use, and how many miles you run it?

I can't see that ruining air flow, especially with our turbo.

My 2014 X1 s28i runs like a scalded cat.

Maybe you should give it an Italian tuneup.

Maybe it's spark plugs and /or coils causing slowness.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:09 AM
wvadam wvadam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0w40X1 View Post
So did I miss what engine oil you use, and how many miles you run it?

I can't see that ruining air flow, especially with our turbo.

My 2014 X1 s28i runs like a scalded cat.

Maybe you should give it an Italian tuneup.

Maybe it's spark plugs and /or coils causing slowness.
Well I see your name is 0W40X1 so maybe thats the reason. I run 5W30 mobile 1 full synthetic. I change it at 10k miles. My last car was a manual 6sp and now going to automatic I am really hating the lag from when I put my foot on the pedal till the time the car actually moves.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:11 AM
wvadam wvadam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mreric View Post
i was thinking of just following the instruction and spraying into the Throttle body...
Yes that is the proper thing to do. I will do that as well. Removing the map sensor is just a convenient way to get the borescope in for a look.
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:24 PM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvadam View Post
Well I see your name is 0W40X1 so maybe thats the reason. I run 5W30 mobile 1 full synthetic. I change it at 10k miles. My last car was a manual 6sp and now going to automatic I am really hating the lag from when I put my foot on the pedal till the time the car actually moves.
I don't know why, but Mobil 1 5w30 just isn't stout like their 0w40.

Castrol 0w30 tests close to Mobil 1 0w40 in viscosity.

I've planned to do 10k oil changes on my 0w40, also.

Dealer kept calling me in before 10k for the free ones.

As to the hesitation, nearly all X1's do that.

There's a throttle reset procedure where you push throttle to floor, and turn key on without foot on brake.

I can live with that slight hesitation cause if I want it to go hard it does. It's just that easy driving in traffic where car can't make up mind. I also started in 2nd gear and that seemed to help.

If car drove worse, I'd get one of those JB4's or other throttle smoothing chips, but it's overall very good, and don't wanna mess it up.
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