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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2018, 06:09 PM
David.W David.W is offline
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Heater Control Valve repair

The rubber seals in these valves perish with age. You can buy replacement seals on Ebay for $35 a set but here is a little cheaper solution...

First I disassembled and cleaned it (just remove 6 x screws).



You can buy a complete replacement valve on Ebay for $24 (cheapest I could find at the time)!



It's pretty much an exact copy of the original but the materials are not quite the same... the plastic body feels a bit softer. All the internal and external dimensions are exactly same as the original part!

It also has the exact same set of seals in it you can buy on Ebay for $35 (just for the seals)!

I decided to remove the seals from the $24 valve and install them in my original part. Not shown is a couple of seals that sit in the black plastic housing - you pull out the 2 x beige colored plastic tubes to get to those and there is also a couple of o-rings sealing the base of the solenoids.

The cone shaped plungers are an interference fit on the plunger shafts - just pull them off. To re-install it is best to use a small press (I used my drill press), only light pressure is needed to re-install them. Pic below shows the new seals installed on my original plungers.



Here are the leftover parts from the new valve.



My re-assembled Heater control valve with new seals below.

I used a 12V source to test...

Pin 1 +12V

Pin 2 RTN (solenoid 1)

Pin 3 RTN (solenoid 2)



Or you could simply use the $24 part as is... it's a great deal compared to the price of an oem replacement and of surprisingly good quality for the money!
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2018, 06:45 PM
leejim leejim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.W View Post
The rubber seals in these valves perish with age. You can buy replacement seals on Ebay for $35 a set but here is a little cheaper solution...

First I disassembled and cleaned it (just remove 6 x screws).



You can buy a complete replacement valve on Ebay for $24 (cheapest I could find at the time)!



It's pretty much an exact copy of the original but the materials are not quite the same... the plastic body feels a bit softer. All the internal and external dimensions are exactly same as the original part!

It also has the exact same set of seals in it you can buy on Ebay for $35 (just for the seals)!

I decided to remove the seals from the $24 valve and install them in my original part. Not shown is a couple of seals that sit in the black plastic housing - you pull out the 2 x beige colored plastic tubes to get to those and there is also a couple of o-rings sealing the base of the solenoids.

The cone shaped plungers are an interference fit on the plunger shafts - just pull them off. To re-install it is best to use a small press (I used my drill press), only light pressure is needed to re-install them. Pic below shows the new seals installed on my original plungers.



Here are the leftover parts from the new valve.



My re-assembled Heater control valve with new seals below.

I used a 12V source to test...

Pin 1 +12V

Pin 2 RTN (solenoid 1)

Pin 3 RTN (solenoid 2)



Or you could simply use the $24 part as is... it's a great deal compared to the price of an oem replacement and of surprisingly good quality for the money!
thanks for your great explanation. I love doing this type of work myself and often saves you a big amount of cash. Keep up the good work.

Sent from my SM-J730GM using Bimmerfest mobile app
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  #3  
Old 03-17-2019, 06:56 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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Thank you again. Another set of high quality pictures
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79


Last edited by Dalplex; 03-17-2019 at 09:09 AM.
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  #4  
Old 03-17-2019, 07:54 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.W View Post
The rubber seals in these valves perish with age.
[ ... ]
I used a 12V source to test...

Pin 1 +12V

Pin 2 RTN (solenoid 1)

Pin 3 RTN (solenoid 2)
The elastomer seals perish also due to exposure to inappropriate coolant anti-corrosion chemicals.

The power / control is NOT 12 VDC.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #5  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:10 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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What is voltage of it then?
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #6  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:12 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalplex View Post
What is voltage of it then?
Pulse Width Modulated PWM variable duty cycle. Put a voltmeter on it and see what you get.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #7  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:12 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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Is there any reasons why these valves to be there?

Can a straight pipe to be used?
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #8  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:13 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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I see. Thanks. So the flow is modulate.
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #9  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:15 AM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
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Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
They throttle the flow through the heater cores on a hot water temperature controlled system. The HCV is normally open de-energized and energized shut, throttled shut with PWM signal from IHKA.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #10  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:20 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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Thank again.

In theory. They can be bypassed as NO? May be the temperature of hot air less stable without them?

2nd question, may I ask why there are two inlets to the heat core. Thus two valves?
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #11  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:24 AM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
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Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalplex View Post
Thank again.

In theory. They can be bypassed as NO? May be the temperature of hot air less stable without them?

2nd question, may I ask why there are two inlets to the heat core. Thus two valves?
Left and right heaters /cores. Bypassed would run maximum heat into the cabin always,
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2019, 11:40 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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The vent can adjust its open and close or anywhere in between?
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #13  
Old 04-15-2019, 12:21 AM
mgucci745 mgucci745 is offline
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Does replacing the heater control valve / fixing the seals solve the hot air on one side, cold air on the other side problem?
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  #14  
Old 05-25-2020, 09:11 AM
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Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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I replaced the heater control valve but had not solved the problem. I can confirm the ac is fine as I measured 16c from rear cooler.
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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  #15  
Old 05-27-2020, 02:43 PM
Dalplex's Avatar
Dalplex Dalplex is offline
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Mein Auto: 08 Smart Fortwo
Finally fix 'water valve right' not close issue.

The coil of The new valve from xbay burnt out but not completely open circuit.

Cannibalism coil pack from old one with seal set from new one seems solve the water valve issue at this moment.

But front vent is still not cool at all.

The compressor should be fine as the rear vent from ceiling can go down to 16C.
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06 750 Li, Clattering noise, suspect piston 2 hits head due to spun bearing.

03 760 Li,

coolant leak from back plate.
Acc lens heater fault.
IHKA: 9C79

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