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  #276  
Old 09-15-2008, 09:51 AM
Vinci Vinci is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicoloryan View Post
Ps: if the only solution at the moment is are aluminum resistors i've tried but it doesn't work on my car.
What value of resistor did you try? A resistor is a fool-proof method for correcting the quick flash that the LED lights trigger.
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  #277  
Old 09-15-2008, 10:58 AM
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A resistor defeats the purpose of the LEDs which use much less energy than the regular bulbs.
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  #278  
Old 09-29-2009, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinci View Post
What value of resistor did you try? A resistor is a fool-proof method for correcting the quick flash that the LED lights trigger.

6 ohm works for me. This combined with the flasher mod of replacing the metal strip with a schotke diode completes the LED conversion for the car. Whew that took a while to solve all the problems.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...5cBTgQJ4Xsw%3d
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  #279  
Old 09-29-2009, 04:04 AM
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Bob, I want one, would you consider making one for me?

Thanks
Dave
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  #280  
Old 09-29-2009, 10:29 AM
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Bob, I want one, would you consider making one for me?

Thanks
Dave
I could mod yours if you can't do it yourself. Can you solder? Its a matter of unsoldering that metal strip and replacing it with a diode. Let me know.
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  #281  
Old 09-29-2009, 11:29 AM
fastpat fastpat is offline
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I can see the use of of the Schotky, what controls its flash rate, that's unclear from the Schotky data sheet I downloaded from Mouser?

Are you going sans inline resistor with the Schotky?
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  #282  
Old 09-29-2009, 04:28 PM
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I can solder, what parts and where can I get them?

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Dave
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  #283  
Old 09-30-2009, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
I can solder, what parts and where can I get them?

Thanks
Dave

this link is how to.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=38677&page=2

this link is the part


http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...5cBTgQJ4Xsw%3d
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  #284  
Old 09-30-2009, 06:56 PM
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Ordered two Diodes- Schottky 8A 45V, thanks
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  #285  
Old 09-30-2009, 10:28 PM
cruisingdog cruisingdog is offline
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OK, so I don't get how using a Diode is more efficient than a resistor. BOth devices will have a voltage drop across them an both devices will dissipate power. What am I missing here ?
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  #286  
Old 10-01-2009, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cruisingdog View Post
OK, so I don't get how using a Diode is more efficient than a resistor. BOth devices will have a voltage drop across them an both devices will dissipate power. What am I missing here ?
I really didn't care about the specifics. The stock flasher will not work with LED bulbs, this setup does. And its cheep.
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Eurosport Cam Kit, 1-touch lane change,
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  #287  
Old 10-01-2009, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cruisingdog View Post
OK, so I don't get how using a Diode is more efficient than a resistor. BOth devices will have a voltage drop across them an both devices will dissipate power. What am I missing here ?
The diode only has to dissipate something like 0.4 Volts times the lower LED current. For sake of argument, let's suppose the LED lights draw a full 1 Ampere which is likely much too high. The diode only has to dissipate 0.4V x 1A = 0.4W which is more than an order of magnitude less power (and heat) than the 21W of a 6.8 ohm load resistor. The diode's low voltage drop, in series with the load, is the solution's charm. With LEDs, I bet you'll barely notice the diode is there.

Last edited by johnf; 10-01-2009 at 08:46 AM.
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  #288  
Old 10-01-2009, 07:09 PM
cruisingdog cruisingdog is offline
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Originally Posted by johnf View Post
The diode only has to dissipate something like 0.4 Volts times the lower LED current. For sake of argument, let's suppose the LED lights draw a full 1 Ampere which is likely much too high. The diode only has to dissipate 0.4V x 1A = 0.4W which is more than an order of magnitude less power (and heat) than the 21W of a 6.8 ohm load resistor. The diode's low voltage drop, in series with the load, is the solution's charm. With LEDs, I bet you'll barely notice the diode is there.
OK, so I understand power etc. However I don't understand how the 'light blown' detector works. Does it need a voltage across it ? And if so is the resistor in parallel with the lamp or in series with it ? (ie a current sensor or a voltage sensor - or thermal ?). Just curious.
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  #289  
Old 10-02-2009, 03:00 AM
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The flasher unit resistance strip is in series with the load and produces half the usual voltage drop when a bulb burns out. The substituted diode introduces a higher voltage drop, above the threshold that triggers fast flashing, even when you hook up LEDs that draw less current than a single 21W bulb.

Last edited by johnf; 10-02-2009 at 03:03 AM.
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  #290  
Old 10-05-2009, 10:58 PM
cruisingdog cruisingdog is offline
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Originally Posted by johnf View Post
The flasher unit resistance strip is in series with the load and produces half the usual voltage drop when a bulb burns out. The substituted diode introduces a higher voltage drop, above the threshold that triggers fast flashing, even when you hook up LEDs that draw less current than a single 21W bulb.
Got it! Thanks for explaining.
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  #291  
Old 10-06-2009, 03:38 AM
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Got my diodes, took longer to get the cover off than fixing it!
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  #292  
Old 03-14-2017, 01:16 AM
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Hi am I missing something in this old thread? Everyone seems to be talking about ordering resistors (plural) more than one. I only need one correct? Thanks.
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  #293  
Old 03-14-2017, 04:17 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
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Since the stock flasher circuit depends on the current through the turn signal lamps, and since LEDs draw so much less current than incandescent bulbs, installing LED turn signal bulbs usually results in hyper-flash. The resistors are needed in each turn signal circuit. They go in parallel to the LED bulbs. It's often easiest to put one at each corner, or you can sometimes just install one on each side.
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  #294  
Old 03-14-2017, 04:37 PM
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dwonda dwonda is offline
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Originally Posted by Blacklane View Post
Since the stock flasher circuit depends on the current through the turn signal lamps, and since LEDs draw so much less current than incandescent bulbs, installing LED turn signal bulbs usually results in hyper-flash. The resistors are needed in each turn signal circuit. They go in parallel to the LED bulbs. It's often easiest to put one at each corner, or you can sometimes just install one on each side.
Sorry I think you misunderstand, I am asking about modifying the relay.
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  #295  
Old 03-14-2017, 05:46 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
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This thread talks about a lot of ideas. It starts with the idea of load resistors. You need two of those (one on each side, 6 to 10 ohms each) to make the stock flasher work right. By the end of the thread, they're talking about modifying the flasher. To do that, you don't need any resistors, just a Schotky diode.
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  #296  
Old 03-14-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacklane View Post
This thread talks about a lot of ideas. It starts with the idea of load resistors. You need two of those (one on each side, 6 to 10 ohms each) to make the stock flasher work right. By the end of the thread, they're talking about modifying the flasher. To do that, you don't need any resistors, just a Schotky diode.
Cool, thanks!
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