M62TU Thermostat low temperature calibration ?? - Page 2 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-02-2019, 05:51 AM
4thBMW 4thBMW is offline
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Location: FLORIDA
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 540iT Sportwagon
Bar's Leak brand 10 Minute Radiator Flush

I may have mentioned I was going to flush with the above mentioned, non-acidic, coolant flush. Got some sent to me by Walmart. Have not used it. Spoke with Bar's Leak tech. customer support. He would not tell me the active ingredient(s) or anything other than the product had been discontinued and wanted to know where I bought it.....before putting me on hold (end of call). I'm returning the stuff to Walmart. just from what I gleaned from some product revies, 10 Minute Flush is probably a benign organic, biodegradable sufficant (like Myer's dish washing soap) that I can buy from COSTO for $10 / gal. I decided not to have a bubble party and flush with water. Hell...I've never seen anything but clear coolant in my system and replace those parts more than I care to remember. LOL.
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  #27  
Old 04-02-2019, 01:50 PM
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Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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never use any of that stuff... a flush is drain and fill.. and repeat
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  #28  
Old 04-03-2019, 01:59 PM
4thBMW 4thBMW is offline
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I hear ya. Funny, that thermostat i pulled,

I could not get a good ohm / resistance reading as mounted on pump. just pegged 1.0 like a short. Now, on the bench, reads 13.3 -12.7 ohms. Seems and acted normal. New, out of box replacement was 13.7 Ohms...now installed.
humm, old stat had some pitting, corrosion inside. Installed w/ new pump, rad. 11/2016. Sprayed some Deoxit D5 all over it and on the shelf with it.
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2019, 11:25 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haolibird View Post
4th,

I read an interesting suggestion from JimLev, about heating the spring on the T-Stat.
That drops the temp needed to open the 'Stat.
He has reported a tempt reading avg 100 to 103 in the summer, with AC.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2tu-thermostat

Something any WalMart shopper would be proud of!
Sorry Jim, couldn't help it...
Of course, I can't wait to open my T-Stat, and get to heatin'.

Cletus

That was just a test to see if it was a viable option. In the end I decided to put the original t-stat back in and then built an adjustable PWM controller that I connected to the t-stat heater.
I can now set the engine temp anywhere between the low 80's C all the way up to 108C.
Typically I keep it at 95/96C.
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  #30  
Old 04-04-2019, 12:44 PM
4thBMW 4thBMW is offline
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Location: FLORIDA
 
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Thx Jim Lev...was trying to find that thread....

Yesterday, I boiled the105 deg C t-stat I had pulled out mentioned above....before I put it on the shelf. Thought I might see it open before 100 deg CI Lol, physics not cooperating. want to make sure all the air is out, think it is now, before making comparisons to this new like t-stat and what my drive around core engine temps say. *You can tell by the temps* if their is still air in the system or possibly a bad/ stuck t-stat.
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  #31  
Old 04-04-2019, 02:35 PM
flemsmith flemsmith is offline
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Jim Lev, Although I admire your ability to do custom PWM upgrades, wouldn't the typical result you say you are running be the same as buying the 95C thermostat and terminating the heater connector with the 12ohm, 25W resistor I've read about previously? As long as I'm asking questions, seems like combining that thermostat option with the triple flow aluminum radiator would be a very good thing for Az summers, without having to get too technical...opinion?

Thanks, roy
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2019, 03:30 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Flem, yes a 95C would work about the same. Some are using the 88C t-stat from the E39 Euro diesel engines.
I didn't have one on hand but I did have all the parts to build a PWM circuit.
I didn't need to bleed the cooling system either.
I already have a Zionsville radiator with a PWM speed controller on it. The fan circuit also keeps the fan running for 5 min after I shut the engine off.
The summers here just north of ABQ are probably about as hot as they are in Apache Junction.

Last edited by JimLev; 04-04-2019 at 03:48 PM.
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2019, 03:46 PM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4thBMW View Post
Yesterday, I boiled the105 deg C t-stat I had pulled out mentioned above....before I put it on the shelf. Thought I might see it open before 100 deg CI Lol, physics not cooperating. want to make sure all the air is out, think it is now, before making comparisons to this new like t-stat and what my drive around core engine temps say. *You can tell by the temps* if their is still air in the system or possibly a bad/ stuck t-stat.
Right, you can't get it to open in 100C boiling water.
The t-stat will start to open at 103C.
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  #34  
Old 04-04-2019, 04:33 PM
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Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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  #35  
Old 04-04-2019, 04:43 PM
4thBMW 4thBMW is offline
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Just drove 35 miles on a good coolant bleed @ mid-70's F ambient

....and rain. new105 deg C t-stat. works fine avg. 105 high 108; low 104 on accel under load...but seems to like 108 with that egg between my foot and accelerator 40-50 in town. My shrink advises me to turn off the temp. heads up and just look at the round temp dial. I forgot to mention above that BMW states that the cold coolant temperature when seeking the cold fill level with red stick in reservoir is 20 deg. C That ain't happening in my zip code till hell freezes over. So, if I see 29-30 deg. C one morning on test #7 before start up, I'll adjust reservoir coolant level down below the rim of the tank....thinking *pressure*....when running above mentioned temps.
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