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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-19-2019, 08:54 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Drive or Reverse will not engage. Please Help

I just finished doing my mechatronics rebuild. After I finished I set the car down and tried to back out. My reverse and my drive would not work. It was almost as if it was back in park or electrically locked. Neutral works fine.
I hooked it up to inpa and ran all tests on my transmission, everything came back positive. I have no codes that have popped since clearing the. My CCC does not work but I am in the process of fixing that next week.
I read all the errors and they are:
93b2: Battery connection
54c6: transfer case oil change
5f12: brake sensor, brake pads front
5f13 bale brakes
9c54: Auc sensor
9c55: condensation sensor

I'm thinking brakes because they are very bad and the red brake light is on. But also could the transmission be locked and need to be unlocked? Thanks for the help
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  #2  
Old 07-20-2019, 05:50 AM
twh twh is offline
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When you install the mechatronics, there is a specific thing you must pay attention to relative to park. Did you do that?
Are you certain the mechatronics connector is properly seated, no bent or pushed in pins?
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  #3  
Old 07-20-2019, 05:55 AM
twh twh is offline
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Battery connection could be something that could be a problem.

These other codes are not related to your transmission issue:
transfer case oil is what is says -- BTW, there is a computer thing you must reset when you change the oil
front and rear brake pads are done and that's why the red brake light is on
auc sensor is on the cabin air filter on the right side of the car - could just be unplugged or could be bad....is detects the air quality coming into the cabin
condensation sensor is part of the stuff on the rearview mirror IIRC
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2019, 06:44 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
When you install the mechatronics, there is a specific thing you must pay attention to relative to park. Did you do that?
Are you certain the mechatronics connector is properly seated, no bent or pushed in pins?
Yes, you must make sure the slide gap is lined up with the shifter unit. I made sure. The car shifts with no problem and the gear shows properly on the dash. At first it wasnt seated i had to remove everything and line it back up. But with the these cars it wont let you shift at all if its not connected and there will be a large warning message saying 4x4.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2019, 06:48 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
Battery connection could be something that could be a problem.

These other codes are not related to your transmission issue:
transfer case oil is what is says -- BTW, there is a computer thing you must reset when you change the oil
front and rear brake pads are done and that's why the red brake light is on
auc sensor is on the cabin air filter on the right side of the car - could just be unplugged or could be bad....is detects the air quality coming into the cabin
condensation sensor is part of the stuff on the rearview mirror IIRC
I figured the only thing out of all of those is the battery. I am going to check the connections. The battery seems fine. Voltage holds at 12.6 when the car is off. I havent checked when on, but i dont see the alternator being an issue.
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2019, 12:31 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Update:
Checked the connections again on the battery terminals. A tiny bit of corrosion. Cleaned them off and still nothing.
Volts at start we're 13.6.
Colts off we're 12.6. Battery looks good to me. I'm getting sole brake fluid in an hour to see if that does anything. The brakes on this thing are really bad(bought like this). New brakes are coming. I'm really hoping it has something to do that that.
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2019, 05:26 PM
tstiglich tstiglich is offline
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I could be wrong, but I can't see how your brakes would be related to your transmission.
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2019, 05:45 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Originally Posted by tstiglich View Post
I could be wrong, but I can't see how your brakes would be related to your transmission.
Yeah it can't be. What about parking sensor failure? I have that coming up.
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2019, 03:28 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Ok update. I found out that it's not actually locking. I am parked on a slight hill so the transmission locks just Incase. So, why would I be getting 0 movement after replacing the seals and solenoids. Last night I even mad sure there was enough fluid in there. Almost 8lt.
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2019, 03:52 PM
kaane kaane is offline
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How did you fill the transmission? It sounds like it has no pressure, so either leaking mechatronics sleeve, not correct fluid level or bad mechatronics rebuild.
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  #11  
Old 07-21-2019, 04:37 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Originally Posted by kaane View Post
How did you fill the transmission? It sounds like it has no pressure, so either leaking mechatronics sleeve, not correct fluid level or bad mechatronics rebuild.
I filled it at a level until it started coming out of the hole. Turned it on,Shifted through the gears left it on one underneath the car when did the drain plug started filling it up some more it'll start coming out before I got to 105 which is around 41C plug it back up, set it down.
Maybe I did the seals wrong but I checked the solenoids with inpa and all came back positive pressure. Idk. I have a feeling I might be bringing it back down to check the seals again. I don't know how the seals would get messed up.
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2019, 05:06 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Originally Posted by kaane View Post
How did you fill the transmission? It sounds like it has no pressure, so either leaking mechatronics sleeve, not correct fluid level or bad mechatronics rebuild.
Btw no check engine and no error codes dealing with the transmission.
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2019, 06:08 PM
kaane kaane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoCup6 View Post
Btw no check engine and no error codes dealing with the transmission.
If it has no pressure it won't throw a code for a while. Eventually you will get a code, but it's worthless anyway.
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  #14  
Old 07-24-2019, 04:51 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Update. Just pulled it down, and so far everything looked good. I am going to replace all the sleeves inside again just incase i missed something. But overall, it looked fine.
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2019, 09:52 PM
tstiglich tstiglich is offline
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When I replaced the four cylindrical and one rectangular rubber "sleeves", I had to torque down the mechatronics unit to X Nm. Let is sit for a while, then retorque. The rubber collapses. Maybe you are not getting a good seal?
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2019, 05:00 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tstiglich View Post
When I replaced the four cylindrical and one rectangular rubber "sleeves", I had to torque down the mechatronics unit to X Nm. Let is sit for a while, then retorque. The rubber collapses. Maybe you are not getting a good seal?
Ok good to know. Thank you!
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2019, 11:18 AM
Kurt_ Kurt_ is offline
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Just to be sure, when you filled it, the engine was running? Fill procedure is until fluid comes out the fill plug with the engine running.

Did you test or replace the solenoids?
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2019, 12:18 PM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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When you shift into D/R and get no movement, does shifter stay in D/R or does it shift back to park?
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  #19  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:06 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt_ View Post
Just to be sure, when you filled it, the engine was running? Fill procedure is until fluid comes out the fill plug with the engine running.

Did you test or replace the solenoids?
Yes followed ZF's instruction manual to a T. I used inpa to test the solenoids. Everything check out.
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  #20  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:07 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
When you shift into D/R and get no movement, does shifter stay in D/R or does it shift back to park?
Yes when i shift the gear selector works and shows what i am. I can feel the torque converter working. It stays in the gear i want.
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  #21  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:13 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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UPDATE:
I took it apart and replaced the seals again. Followed instructions all they way through. When i put car in drive and reverse still nothing, BUT listen to this. When i put it in neutral, the car eases forward. Not "drive forward" but almost like the car is a manual and you put it in gear and just touch the gas and release the clutch a little, then it rolls back.
I am thinking its the valve body. A spring or ball is just not in the right place. Thoughts???
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  #22  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:39 AM
Kurt_ Kurt_ is offline
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It sounds like everything was done correctly and it should be working. You may need a sonnax zip kit. There's also a thread somewhere about using a ford 6R60 valve body if you have the right transmission for it.

Did you reset adaptations?

Is there oil on the electrical connector? That could do some funky things.

Did you clean the sensors on the mechatronics when you had the valve body out?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 6HP_19-21_Catalog.pdf (924.9 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf DIY Mechatronics.pdf (1.12 MB, 11 views)
File Type: pdf ZF6-6R60-ZIP-Booklet.pdf (1.45 MB, 17 views)

Last edited by Kurt_; 07-27-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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  #23  
Old 07-27-2019, 06:59 PM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt_ View Post
It sounds like everything was done correctly and it should be working. You may need a sonnax zip kit. There's also a thread somewhere about using a ford 6R60 valve body if you have the right transmission for it.

Did you reset adaptations?

Is there oil on the electrical connector? That could do some funky things.

Did you clean the sensors on the mechatronics when you had the valve body out?
Thats a real good DIY write up. I used ZF's personal one. That zip kit looks to intricate. Id rather just buy a used one with a warranty for $300.

The car when i bought it had barely any fluid in the pan when i drained it. May be like 2lt...i feel like now, it screwed up the valve body. I was hoping bu just replacing the solenoids and the seals it would be ok. The car drove, but slipped in gears. But now, it must have just screwed it up too much.
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  #24  
Old 07-28-2019, 07:35 AM
Kurt_ Kurt_ is offline
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It's entirely possible. Hopefully the clutch pack is okay.

Good luck. At least there's plenty of parts floating around.
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  #25  
Old 07-28-2019, 07:37 AM
TacoCup6 TacoCup6 is offline
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Thanks dude. Ill keep it updated


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