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  #1  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:11 AM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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F30 requisite mods? What do you all think?

I recently purchased a 2012 335i sedan, black sapphire metallic, with black leather interior with red accents, & 20" Double Spoke 361 rims & Pirelli P-Zero Run-Flats. Otherwise, as far as I can tell, it is bone stock, save for the window tint and the different rims (the car was spec'd with 19"LT/ALY WHEELS DOUBLE SP. 401/MT, per the build sheet). A side view of my car is in my sig. Here is a photo of the interior:



Here is the build sheet from BMWVin.com.

Vehicle information
VIN long ...NN67501
Type code 3A9G
Type 335I (USA)
Dev. series F30 ()
Line 3
Body type LIM
Steering LL
Door count 4
Engine N55
Cubical capacity 3
Power 225
Transmision HECK
Gearbox AUT
Colour BLACK SAPPHIRE METALLIC (475)
Upholstery LEDER DAKOTA/SCHWARZ/AKZENT ROT (LCL3)
Prod. date 3/1/2012

Order options
No. Description
1CA SELECTION COP RELEVANT VEHICLES
2A4 19"LT/ALY WHEELS DOUBLE SP. 401/MT
2TB SPORT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
2VB TYRE PRESSURE INDICATOR
255 SPORTS LEATHER STEERING WHEEL
3BE MIRROR CAPS BLACK
3DZ WITHOUT ADDITIONAL DESIGNATION OUTS
302 ALARM SYSTEM
319 INTEGRATED UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL
322 COMFORT ACCESS SYSTEM
4AT INT.TR.FINI. BLACK HIGH-GLOSS
4DN HIGH.TRIM FIN. CORAL RED MATT
4NE BLOW-BY-HEATER
403 GLAS ROOF, ELECTRIC
423 FLOOR MATS, VELOUR
430 INT/EXT RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-DAZZLE
431 INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D
459 SEAT ADJUSTM., ELECTR. W. MEMORY
465 THROUGH-LOAD SYSTEM
481 SPORT SEATS F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
488 LUMBAR SUPPORT DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
493 STORAGE COMPARTMENT PACKAGE
494 SEAT HEATING F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
5AC AUTOM. HIGH-BEAM HEADLIGHTS CONTROL
5AP DECODING FOR NO-DAZZLE HIGH-BEAM AS
521 RAIN SENSOR
522 XENON LIGHT
524 ADAPTIVE HEADLIGHTS
534 AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING
563 LIGHTS PACKAGE
575 ADDITIONAL 12V POWER SOCKET
6AA BMW TELESERVICES
6AB CONTROL TELESERVICES
6NF EXT.CON.OF THE MUSIC PLAY.I.MOBILPH
6NL CONNECT. BLUETOOTH A.USB DEVICES IN
6NR APPS
6UH TRAFFIC INFORMATION
6VA CIC CONTROL
6WA INSTRUMENT CLUSTER W. EXTENDED CONT
609 NAVIGATION SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL
610 HEAD UP DISPLAY
615 EXTENDED BMW ONLINE INFORMATION
655 SATELLITE RADIO
688 HARMAN/KARDON SURROUND SOUND SYSTEM
697 AREA-CODE 1
7AC SPORT LINE
704 M SPORT SUSPENSION
775 INDIVIDUAL ROOF-LINING ANTHRACITE
8KC OELSERVICEINT. 24.000KM/24MONTHS
8SC COUNTRY SPEC. RELEASE OF TELESERVICE
8S4 DECODING VARIABLE LIGHT DISTRIBUTIO
8TN DAYTIME DRIVING LIGHTS SELECTABLE B
840 HIGH SPEED SYNCHRONISATION
9AA EXTERNAL SKIN PROTECTION
925 SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE

Series options
No. Description
216 SERVOTRONIC
249 MULTI-FUNCTION FOR STEERING WHEEL
258 RUNFLAT TYRES
5DS LUGGAGE-COMPARTMENT EMERG. RELEASE
520 FOGLIGHTS
544 CRUISE CONTROL WITH BRAKING FUNCTION
645 RADIO CONTROL US
823 HOT CLIMATE VERSION
845 ACOUSTIC BELT WARNING
853 LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH
876 RADIO FREQUENCY 315 MHZ
992 NUMBER PLATE ATTACHEMENT MANAGEMENT
993 MODEL YEAR CODE

So, what I'm asking here is what do the forum goers here think are the requisite mods for the F30? I'll of course do the "normal" mods, like a K&N air filter, computer code changes, and the navigation map updates (the files are extracting now, will be installed tomorrow). The car does have about 4k miles (or until July 2016) left on the factory warranty and the no-cost maintenance, so I'll be able to get another set of wiper blades, an oil change, and a new set of front brakes before it runs out.

What are the absolute "must do" mods for the F30?
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2012 F30 335i | Black Sapphire Metallic | Black Dakota Leather w/ Red Accents | Bone Stock | 20" BMW Double Spoke 361 | Continental ExtremeContact DWS-06
2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)

Last edited by Macadamia; 01-12-2016 at 01:42 AM. Reason: the link to BMWVin.com build sheet did not work, so I just cut & pasted the contents
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:13 AM
Eluded Eluded is offline
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Down pipe, more boost, some e85, bigger turbo, nitrous, etc.
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2016, 07:17 AM
Aero1 Aero1 is offline
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Depends on what your purpose is. Is it to make things pretty or to go fast? If it's the latter, then the most effective mod tends to be to swap out the moronic piece of ballast in the front left seat.
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  #4  
Old 01-12-2016, 10:14 AM
Eluded Eluded is offline
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What if he is a trained racing car driver? Then what mods would you focus on? I think a big bang for the buck is DP, Exhaust, boost (JB4) & don't forget the FUEL!

Mad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero1 View Post
Depends on what your purpose is. Is it to make things pretty or to go fast? If it's the latter, then the most effective mod tends to be to swap out the moronic piece of ballast in the front left seat.
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2016, 11:16 AM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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Location: Eastern Idaho
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluded View Post
What if he is a trained racing car driver? Then what mods would you focus on? I think a big bang for the buck is DP, Exhaust, boost (JB4) & don't forget the FUEL!

Mad
oh, duh... I thought he was referring to the actual seat...
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:31 PM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
...
I'll of course do the "normal" mods, like a K&N air filter
...
and a new set of front brakes before it runs out.
K&N isn't really a "requisite"; the OEM cold-air is pretty good and won't cause problems as some filters have done in the past. Unless you like more turbo noise, have a bigger FMIC or doing some more radical tuning, they're wasted money.

It's usually REAR brakes on newer BMWs that get replaced before 50K. I have my original front pads and rotors at 104K. Are your fronts actually worn down?
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:11 PM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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According to the vehicle info from iDrive, it says I have 3k left on the fronts and 18k left on the rears.
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2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:54 PM
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Congrats on the new F30
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:56 PM
[email protected] mike@x-ph.com is offline
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Must do would be a tune
Start with a stage 1 Jb tune and if you want more power you can upgrade to JB4 + downpipes
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:25 PM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW Carbon View Post
Congrats on the new F30
Thank you... I'm having a blast with it...
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2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)
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  #11  
Old 01-13-2016, 06:36 PM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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I have a couple of other questions... I have done searches, but I guess my search-fu is weak, since I have not found a suitable answer.

I'm looking to get a winter set of rims / tires, probably a set of 18s with Blizzak (or similar) tires. What set of 18" rims work? (offset, width, etc) At the moment, my car is stock, but if I want to upgrade the brakes to a big brake set (M-Performance or Brembo), would I need to get at least 19s? What set of 19" rims work? (offset, width, etc)

Thank you in advance for your assistance.





Or, is anyone running the rims I have with all season tires or winter tires? This would probably be the most cost effective alternative. (Unless I can score an inexpensive set, complete with TPMS)
(BMW Double Spoke 361 Complete Wheel Set / Up to 03/14 part #36112219673)
Rear: 255/30-R20 92Y Pirelli P-Zero Run Flat
Front: 225/35R20 92Y Pirelli P-Zero Run Flat
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2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2016, 06:45 PM
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Nordique Nordique is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero1 View Post
Depends on what your purpose is. Is it to make things pretty or to go fast? If it's the latter, then the most effective mod tends to be to swap out the moronic piece of ballast in the front left seat.
The single best mod, as I was told three bimmers ago, is to upgrade the nut behind the steering wheel, since modding that nut will carry on to all future bimmers. As they told us on my first track day, the fastest car on our track that day could be a Ford Fiesta, driven by Ralph Schumaker. Or a Ford van, driven by Sabine Schmitz.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:19 PM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordique View Post
The single best mod, as I was told three bimmers ago, is to upgrade the nut behind the steering wheel, since modding that nut will carry on to all future bimmers. As they told us on my first track day, the fastest car on our track that day could be a Ford Fiesta, driven by Ralph Schumaker. Or a Ford van, driven by Sabine Schmitz.
I've heard this and completely agree. While I've never taken any driving classes, I have taken a couple of motorcycling classes to improve my riding, including an off-road class where I rode my R1200GS Adventure.
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2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:33 PM
jinete jinete is offline
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:36 PM
CaptBreadbeard CaptBreadbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
I have a couple of other questions... I have done searches, but I guess my search-fu is weak, since I have not found a suitable answer.

I'm looking to get a winter set of rims / tires, probably a set of 18s with Blizzak (or similar) tires. What set of 18" rims work? (offset, width, etc) At the moment, my car is stock, but if I want to upgrade the brakes to a big brake set (M-Performance or Brembo), would I need to get at least 19s? What set of 19" rims work? (offset, width, etc)

Thank you in advance for your assistance.



Or, is anyone running the rims I have with all season tires or winter tires? This would probably be the most cost effective alternative. (Unless I can score an inexpensive set, complete with TPMS)
(BMW Double Spoke 361 Complete Wheel Set / Up to 03/14 part #36112219673)
Rear: 255/30-R20 92Y Pirelli P-Zero Run Flat
Front: 225/35R20 92Y Pirelli P-Zero Run Flat

Make sure you know if you need studdless dnow and ice tires or winter performance tires. Get the wrong type and you'll be very unhappy. Mostly cold, dry/wet roads, get winter performance. Best of that category is Pilot Alpine 4s or Sottozero 3s. You typically want some sidewall, so smaller rims are better. Go square if you want better snow traction.

The sport brakes require 18s. Anything bigger than that is for show, not go, because the combined rim and tire weight will be heavier with no appreciable traction gained. Speaking of weight, the OEM rims are ridiculously heavy. I use my track package 18s to run 225 square Sottozero 3 and a set of 18" Volk ZE40s for the PSS. OEM 398s are 26lbs per rim, ZE40s are 18lbs! ZE40s aren't even considered a lightweight design, they're the strong design from Volk. The ZE40s are made in a 18" and 19" explicitly for the F30.


As for mods, see my sig. Unless you want to make your car illegal and be an a$$ to your fellow human beings and the planet, stage 1 tune + fmic + charge pipe are the way to go. Intake /exhaust won't do much for performance (may sound better) and downpipes/etc are generally illegal and won't do much unless you push to stage 2 tunes. Chargepipe is only needed because of them weak OEM design. Haven't done it yet, but might consider a diverter valve upgrade as well (holds boost better so lag is reduced).

Last edited by CaptBreadbeard; 01-15-2016 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:38 PM
Helrot Helrot is offline
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Nice car!

Requisite mods... Hand wash, clay bar, Polish, sealant and wax.

Next is Maybe not a required mods but I think a trunk spoiler is a cost effective improvement that will make your BMW stand out a little while maintaining a factory appearance. You can pick up an aftermarket one < $150.

I wouldn't bother with the K&N air filter, pretty much zero performance gain. JB stage 1 is truely plug-n-play and will net you a noticeable boost in performance.

As others have said it all depends on what you want to do and what is important to you. Some folks can't wait to replace the audio system, others are all about exterior customization and / or boosting the HP& toque.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2016, 07:55 AM
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kpgray kpgray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helrot View Post
Nice car!

I wouldn't bother with the K&N air filter, pretty much zero performance gain. JB stage 1 is truely plug-n-play and will net you a noticeable boost in performance.

As others have said it all depends on what you want to do and what is important to you. Some folks can't wait to replace the audio system, others are all about exterior customization and / or boosting the HP& toque.
+1

K&N will do little to nothing, an intake will not provide much until you add a tune which provides a higher boost in the Turbo and the engine starts to draw more air though the system. You have an early build F30 so the BMW MPPK is a 20 HP Gain ($1,000) and includes a low restriction intake. The Dinan tune is 65 HP($2,000). The JB4 is the bargain with 60-70 HP (>$500) but is not covered under warranty. the Dinan & JB4 do not include intake. An Exhaust as the BMW MPE will provide for a nicer exhaust tone and possibly 5 HP gains ($1,000), The BMW MPPK with BMW MPE mods are 8-9% gain together.
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Last edited by kpgray; 01-17-2016 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:34 AM
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alocksley alocksley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordique View Post
The single best mod, as I was told three bimmers ago, is to upgrade the nut behind the steering wheel, since modding that nut will carry on to all future bimmers. As they told us on my first track day, the fastest car on our track that day could be a Ford Fiesta, driven by Ralph Schumaker. Or a Ford van, driven by Sabine Schmitz.
Agree!
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:08 PM
ronanz ronanz is offline
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Depends on what you're budget is and what you're trying to achieve overall (all show, all go or both)
.

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Old 01-16-2016, 08:29 PM
Macadamia Macadamia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptBreadbeard View Post
Make sure you know if you need studdless dnow and ice tires or winter performance tires. Get the wrong type and you'll be very unhappy. Mostly cold, dry/wet roads, get winter performance. Best of that category is Pilot Alpine 4s or Sottozero 3s. You typically want some sidewall, so smaller rims are better. Go square if you want better snow traction.

The sport brakes require 18s. Anything bigger than that is for show, not go, because the combined rim and tire weight will be heavier with no appreciable traction gained. Speaking of weight, the OEM rims are ridiculously heavy. I use my track package 18s to run 225 square Sottozero 3 and a set of 18" Volk ZE40s for the PSS. OEM 398s are 26lbs per rim, ZE40s are 18lbs! ZE40s aren't even considered a lightweight design, they're the strong design from Volk. The ZE40s are made in a 18" and 19" explicitly for the F30.


As for mods, see my sig. Unless you want to make your car illegal and be an a$$ to your fellow human beings and the planet, stage 1 tune + fmic + charge pipe are the way to go. Intake /exhaust won't do much for performance (may sound better) and downpipes/etc are generally illegal and won't do much unless you push to stage 2 tunes. Chargepipe is only needed because of them weak OEM design. Haven't done it yet, but might consider a diverter valve upgrade as well (holds boost better so lag is reduced).
Those Volk rims are awesome looking. I've always loved the VMR - V710 rims. I have not done much research on rims except on the e46 M3, back when I was obsessed with that car (still love it, but probably will not be pursuing one). For now, I'll be putting Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires on the rims it came with. Even if I get a set of winter tires & rims, I want to ride all season tires here in Eastern Idaho for the non-winter months. The weather here in the high desert of Idaho is very unpredictable.

Your signature is not showing up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Helrot View Post
Nice car!

Requisite mods... Hand wash, clay bar, Polish, sealant and wax.

Next is Maybe not a required mods but I think a trunk spoiler is a cost effective improvement that will make your BMW stand out a little while maintaining a factory appearance. You can pick up an aftermarket one < $150.

I wouldn't bother with the K&N air filter, pretty much zero performance gain. JB stage 1 is truely plug-n-play and will net you a noticeable boost in performance.

As others have said it all depends on what you want to do and what is important to you. Some folks can't wait to replace the audio system, others are all about exterior customization and / or boosting the HP& toque.
Thank you!

Agreed with the detailing mods. I think I'll be paying for the first complete paint treatment at my local detailing shop - clay, double wax, scratch removal, and anti-swirl buffing. Then, I'll need to find one of the local DIY car washes that allow bucket washing. My apartment complex does not allow car washing on the premises.

One of the body mods I really want to do is the trunk spoiler; I love the carbon fiber one. It sort of gets lost on the black sapphire metallic paint color of the car, but it looks nice.

Multiple people have suggested NOT doing the K&N filter. I've actually been looking at a full cold air intake, like the Dinan one. Very spendy, though.

As for the audio system, it's very good, especially compared to my 1999 323i convertible H&K stereo. I may replace the amp and maybe the sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpgray View Post
+1

K&N will do little to nothing, an intake will not provide much until you add a tune which provides a higher boost in the Turbo and the engine starts to draw more air though the system. You have an early build F30 so the BMW MPPK is a 20 HP Gain ($1,000) and includes a low restriction intake. Those two mods are 8-9% gain. The Dinan tune is 65 HP($2,000). The JB4 is the bargain with 60-70 HP (>$500) but is not covered under warranty. An Exhaust as the BMW MPE will provide for a nicer exhaust tone but possibly 5 HP gains ($1,000),
Thanks for the specific information. I have been looking at the BMW M-Performance upgrades pretty closely. I do not have the funds to do anything right now, but maybe by the summer I'll be able to do stuff. Realistically, the car is way more than I could ever drive at the limit, at least legally around here. I will not be tracking it, so as people have suggested, mod it for me.

Thanks for all the comments, I really appreciate them.
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2002 BMW R1100S BCX | 2007 BMW G650X Challenge (sold) | 2012 BMW R1200GS Adventure (sold) | 1999 Alpine White E36 323i Convertible (sold)
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  #21  
Old 01-17-2016, 07:10 AM
CaptBreadbeard CaptBreadbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
Those Volk rims are awesome looking. I've always loved the VMR - V710 rims. I have not done much research on rims except on the e46 M3, back when I was obsessed with that car (still love it, but probably will not be pursuing one). For now, I'll be putting Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires on the rims it came with. Even if I get a set of winter tires & rims, I want to ride all season tires here in Eastern Idaho for the non-winter months. The weather here in the high desert of Idaho is very unpredictable.
If I lived out there I'd probably run Pilot Sport A/S 3s (all season) or similar with studdless snow and ice tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
Your signature is not showing up.
Odd, it shows up in my user config?

2016 328i xDrive Sport Wagon - M-Sport / Estoril Blue-Coral Red-Ash / Track / Adaptive-M / Lighting / Technology / Premium / Cold / Driver Assist I & II / HK / M-Performance Pedals & Floor Mats

Mods: Dinan Stage 1 / Volk ZE40 Diamond Dark Gunmetal / ATM FMIC / Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe / BMS Oil Catch Can / Spectra PhotoSync 75% Windshield, 55% All-Around & Sunroof / Suntek PPF / Cargo Net / Sunshade



Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
Agreed with the detailing mods. I think I'll be paying for the first complete paint treatment at my local detailing shop - clay, double wax, scratch removal, and anti-swirl buffing. Then, I'll need to find one of the local DIY car washes that allow bucket washing. My apartment complex does not allow car washing on the premises.
I assume you know about the two bucket method then? Also, be careful with clay bars. They can mar the finish. There are several different grades (based on how abrasive they are), but even then should only used if absolutely needed. Washing/sealing/waxing the car regularly will help prevent the need to use the clay bar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadamia View Post
Multiple people have suggested NOT doing the K&N filter. I've actually been looking at a full cold air intake, like the Dinan one. Very spendy, though.
Dinan makes great stuff. They are very popular with new car owners because of the warranty, something that probably doesn't mean much to you with only 4k miles left on the factory warranty; i.e. Dinan only covers you for the factory length, which is up to 4yr/50k. That said, I love their products and believe they are worth it if you intend to keep the car for awhile.

All the plumbing upgrades have marginal benefits until you're willing to push the engine tune to Stage 2/3. Yes, everyone markets a few HP, but the reality it's almost always under the most ideal conditions and that's the peak result they measured...often it's within the margin of error of the test. The best bang for the buck is a stage 1 engine tune. After that, it's the Full Metal InterCooler (FMIC) because the stock units heat soaks very quickly and so the engine management software starts backing the power down; can't run full power with high intake temps. This is a big deal on a force indicated car because PV=nRT...increase the pressure and temps rise considerably. The FMIC might allow you to create a few more peak HP, but the real value is being able to make near full power after a few gear pulls since it doesn't heat soak so easily.

Cold air intakes make a lot of sense on hot tracks with constant new air incoming. They also sound nice. However, on a street car they can even hurt performance as everything heat soaks. There was a thread on here a while ago discussing with Dinan Engineering the difficulties in building a worth while cold air intake and why they don't offer them for all engines. Basically came down to the performance benefit is marginal in most cases and the difficultly of improving on stock for a street car, but they look/sound cool so only certain markets can bare the costs of carbon/tooling. Don't bother with K&N filters; not worth it and tests have shown their gains are at the expense of performing their primary function, to filter the air so your engine isn't ingesting dirt.

If you want performance, stage 1 tune + fmic + reliability enhancements (e.g. charge pipes, diverter valves, etc). Beyond that the parts are nice, but usually of limited impact until you run more pressure (stage 2/3). However, for those tunes to work properly you need an illegal cat-less downpipe or at least a high-flow cat (with questionable legality depending on location). I'm not a fan of purposefully building a street car that violates emission standards; I think it's socially irresponsible, YMMV. I know the quest for more HP can be intoxicating, but I'm a fan of sports cars and thus prefer balanced performance. It's after all that that the other plumbing enhancements (exhaust, intake, etc.) performance benefits can really be realized.

Now if you're going for show, the intake and exhaust can certainly make the car look/sound more interesting.
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2016, 02:53 PM
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kpgray kpgray is offline
GasCompression
Location: Rochester, Michigan
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 522
Mein Auto: 2014 335i M-Sport RWD
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptBreadbeard View Post
....If you want performance, stage 1 tune + fmic + reliability enhancements (e.g. charge pipes, diverter valves, etc). Beyond that the parts are nice, but usually of limited impact until you run more pressure (stage 2/3). However, for those tunes to work properly you need an illegal cat-less downpipe or at least a high-flow cat (with questionable legality depending on location). I'm not a fan of purposefully building a street car that violates emission standards; I think it's socially irresponsible, YMMV. I know the quest for more HP can be intoxicating, but I'm a fan of sports cars and thus prefer balanced performance. It's after all that that the other plumbing enhancements (exhaust, intake, etc.) performance benefits can really be realized....
+1
MPPK+ is worth 20 HP (2012-6/2013) & 35 HP (7/2013 & up)
Dinan 55-60 HP
JB4 60-65 HP

FMIC (intercooler) 10-15 HP (HP gains of 1% for every 10F drop in intake temperature)
Down-pipe 15-20 HP
Inlet (Dinan) 10 HP (little difference without tuning turbo boost)
Exhaust Dinan 6 HP, BMW MPE 5 HP

Sample gains & $$$:
Stage I is just a tune (Dinan 360 HP, 392 lb-ft of torque) $2K
Stage II is tune Inlet & Exhaust (Dinan 384 HP, 417 lb-ft of torque) $4.5K
Stage III* add the FMIC to Stage II (Dinan 399 HP, 455 lb-ft of torque) $5.8K

+MPPK gives a Burble sound on deceleration
*Interesting note, the new B58 on the 340i has a water cooled inter-cooler (does not heat soak).
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Last edited by kpgray; 01-17-2016 at 03:41 PM.
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