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Old 02-11-2014, 06:26 AM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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ABS Pump and module removal

Hi guys im new to the forum but just like most of BMW owners i have a fault with my ABS unit. I want to ask first of all if its possible to remove only the abs controller and also how eventually can i remove the whole pump out.
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:51 AM
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GeorgeT GeorgeT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcurmi View Post
... but just like most of BMW owners i have a fault with my ABS unit.
I doubt that most BMW owners have a problem with the ABS. I have have/had 5 BMW's starting with an '01 330i, an '03 540i, an '03 Z4, an '07 750i and an '08 535i. I have never had any issues. If the brake fluid is changed properly every two years you should have no trouble; the problem some folk have is that just bleeding the brakes is not sufficient, the ABS unit must be bled also and it takes special equipment to do this.
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:41 AM
Jstic Jstic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcurmi View Post
Hi guys im new to the forum but just like most of BMW owners i have a fault with my ABS unit. I want to ask first of all if its possible to remove only the abs controller and also how eventually can i remove the whole pump out.
I've replaced my ABS controller and you can replace only the controller, or take the controller and pump out and replace both. New will cost you over $2,000 for the parts from a dealer(for pump and controller). New controller will cost you about $1,100. I did mine myself, but dealer wanted about $800+ for labor and coding of new controller. If you replace the pump, you must go through the BMW pump flush protocol which assures no air bubbles in the ABS section of the brake lines. You must have proper software to do this.

Before you do anything, I would advise pulling all the codes from the car that are related to this problem and see if it might NOT be the ABS pump or controller. The pumps almost NEVER go bad on these cars, the controllers are usually the problem. Having said that, there are many other things that can set off the brake light, DSC light and ABS light on the instrument cluster. Low battery, bad steering angle sensor, bad ABS sensor and many others. Only way to find out is to pull the codes. If you get them, post them here and maybe forum can be more help. Good luck.
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:39 PM
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shipkiller shipkiller is offline
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If you determine that your ABS controller is faulty, talk to these guys first: http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:28 PM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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Let me just explain the whole thing:

My car currently has 44000 miles on the clock, one day after a fast run around the island using lots of braking the trio lights appeared on the dash and i was shocked, after a miles i stopped turned off the car checked everything started again and the light was gone after a few seconds. For a period the problem remained like that after driving for about 20 mins the three lights appear again and when i turn the car off they go when the car cooled down.

Lately i had to jack the car in order to do some works and from that time the bulbs are also on when the car is cold. Anyway in the beginning there were no faults related to the abs pump or controller but i had some other faults such as 5E1F, 5E16, 5E40, 5Dc0 which i deleted those might have been from long time ago when i changed the pads etc, from that time the only errors that appeared were only related to the pump or controller. Later i managed to identify that as soon as i easily knock with a hammer on the abs pump the light goes away after few second and i am able to delete the error of the pump and controller. This leads me to say that its either the controller has a dry join which i found to be common on abs pumps or else there is some solenoid problem. I don't use the car a lot because i have another car so it might be the case that the car being not used some things will fail more.

When the lights are off the abs works perfectly also the hill assist and traction control so the pump is still 'ok'.

I need help to try the last thing to reset the steering angle sensors.
I also need help to tell me the procedures i should follow to remove the whole pump and send it for refurbishment. I don't know how i can reach the bottom two screws if i had to only remove the controller? And also if i had to take the whole pump out what procedure should i use to drain the hydraulic and not spill any on the car when i remove the pipes attached to the pump.

Your help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:36 AM
Jstic Jstic is offline
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5E1F is a VIN mismatch between the steering angle sensor and the ABS/DSC controller. This means that the steering angle sensor is not being recognized by the system. This will result in a trio of warning lights, ABS, Brake, and DSC. This will also result in loss of DSC, but not ABS. I had this code and eventually had to replace the steering angle sensor. 5E16 is a CAN bus timeout on the instrument cluster, could be any number of things but is probably related to the SAS trying to make a connection to the main system and failing. 5DC0 is a right rear wheel speed sensor electrical failure. This will also cause the same trio of warning lights, loss of DSC. 5E40 is a "steering angle not plausible" warning, meaning that the steering angle sensor is sensing a steering position that is impossible(I also had this code when my SAS went bad). If these codes come up every time you get the dash lights (ABS/DSC and Brake) then at least you have a starting point.

In order to remove the ABS/DSC controller, the easiest method is to remove the driver's side front wheel(assuming you have left hand drive) and the black plastic wheel bay lining. It's 5 or 6 black plastic push in type fasteners and a couple of nuts, not hard to get it off at all. Once the wheel lining is off, you have easy and open access to all the fasteners and fittings on the ABS/DSC pump and controller. If you decide to remove the pump you have to drain the master cylinder and put some kind of bucket or something under the pump when you disconnect the lines so the fluid in the lines doesn't get all over the place. Take off the controller BEFORE you try and remove the pump. If you have a car built after 1/2006, the ABS/DSC controller and pump are different than pre-facelift cars. These newer controllers CANNOT be rebuilt or repaired as they are sealed units.

Resetting the steering angle sensor is done by computer software. You will need to get NCS Expert or INPA or DIS/Progman and a cable. You can buy them on ebay for $40. Someone told me there may be a manual way to reset the SAS, but I have never tried it. It involves turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, and back to the right. I'm sure you can find more on this with a forum search.

If you have a bad steering angle sensor, you do not need to remove the steering column to replace it as BMW says. The local BMW dealer wanted around $300 for the part, and another $1300 to install it(almost all of the labor is removing and re-installing the steering column) Removing and replacing the actual SAS from the steering column takes about 10 minutes once you do the preliminaries. I bought a used SAS from a low mileage car for $65 and installed it myself for free. It took about 2 hours. If you decide to go that route, LMK and I can help you with the install, I think I even took some pictures when I did it.

If I were in your shoes, I would first buy the OBD2 cable and software, take some time to learn how to use the software and then when the dash lights come on, pull the codes immediately after the dash lights come on. It's either that or pay the big $ to a dealer. The software will also allow you to reinstall the ABS/DSC pump/controller and do the proper fluid flush and replacement yourself. Based on the info you have given, I seriously doubt that your ABS pump is bad. The pump itself is a mechanical device that either works or it doesn't. I just can't see it working for a while, then failing, then working again. The controller, wheel speed sensors and SAS on the other hand have been known to exhibit this type of behavior. You might want to start by inspecting/cleaning all of your wheel speed sensors. They have a tendency to get cluttered with magnetic shavings.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:12 PM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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Thanks for your detailed reply Jstic however i was thinking that probably it must be either something in the pump or else a dry joint in the circuit because when i knock lightly with a hammer on the pump it starts working after a few secs. I will check again what new faults arise on the OBD so i can conclude but the last 2 codes where one for the pump and one for the controller i dont have the code numbers here.

Regarding the hydraulic it there any need to open the bleed valves on the bottom of the car? And what is the best way to minimise the hydraulic coming out from the pipes near the pump can the hydraulic be sort of displaced by air or something like that?

I have attached a picture of the controller details pls tell me it can be refurbished!!
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2014, 04:42 PM
Jstic Jstic is offline
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Sorry, you have a sealed unit. You must be driving a 2006 or later model. Your part # is 34526778492 which supersedes 34526769164. You have the exact same controller that I replaced on my car. I checked around about 16 months ago for someone who could do a rebuild, no luck. The controller is a sealed unit so I doubt anyone will even try to refurbish. List price is $1146, Tischer sells at a discount for $916. They come up used from time to time for much cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Z4-OEM-3...9a016c&vxp=mtr Saw this one on ebay for $599.

Check your codes first, even a pump related code could be triggered by a bad controller. If you have to replace the pump, it's another $1k. You could be right in that you have a bad connection at the controller, but I doubt it. Those connections are pretty solid and protected by tab locking connectors. But you never know.

If you are going to pull the pump out, you might want to drain a small amount of fluid from each brake line at the wheel. Maybe another forum member has the TIS on the whole pump/controller removal/install process.
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:00 PM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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Thanks again! these people seem to do it at least http://www.actronics.eu/en/shop/bmw-...-mk60-ecu-only and also these http://www.ecutesting.com/ate_abs_pumps___modules.html lets hope for the best if it is the problem it will be good for me because it costs 1200 euro in malta to buy a new controller then you need coding.

Last edited by Mcurmi; 02-12-2014 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:16 PM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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Guys any help which steps i should follow in order to remove the pump safely?
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2014, 07:23 AM
Jstic Jstic is offline
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Why don't you just replace the controller and see if that clears up the problem? No since replacing the pump until you have eliminated the other possibilities. Like I said before, the pumps almost NEVER fail. Here is the instructions from AD.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MK60 remove.pdf (25.2 KB, 504 views)
File Type: pdf Pump remove.pdf (26.1 KB, 396 views)

Last edited by Jstic; 02-14-2014 at 07:55 AM.
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2014, 08:33 AM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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Thanks a lot for those pdfs. The only thing that stops me from checking my controller is because i have to buy another one which is not worth it.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2014, 06:06 AM
Mcurmi Mcurmi is offline
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I did successful remove the abs pump out of the car without making a mess with the hydraulic and today i sent it to http://www.ecutesting.com/ will keep you posted with updates. Thanks again especially Jstic
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:55 AM
Jstic Jstic is offline
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Good luck Mcurmi, I hope it's not something that is super expensive. Please let us all know how this turns out, it may benefit a forum member in the future.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2014, 08:50 AM
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Zuzax Zuzax is offline
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I was getting the evil trinity of lights and at first we blamed the ABS but upon further checking it turned out to be a sneaky intermittent problem with the voltage regulator. One new alternator later (evidently the voltage regulator isn't easily replaced/available by itself) and I've had no problems.
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:18 AM
sfierro53 sfierro53 is offline
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Hi, if it was the voltage regulator did you have any other symptoms besides the 3 lights. I got the three lights after jump starting the car from dead battery. I suspected the DSC module blew from a voltage surge or something. I get DCS not found when using the BMW scan software but this was a week or two after getting other error codes such as SAS and wheel sensor problem. Those are cleared up know and now the lights go out when I drive and then beep and three lights appear when I brake. So know I think the DCS/ABS module has completely checked out. If the voltage regulator could do this I would suspect other problems such as low battery or over charging.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:51 AM
djjonglee djjonglee is offline
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Trifecta

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jstic View Post
5E1F is a VIN mismatch between the steering angle sensor and the ABS/DSC controller. This means that the steering angle sensor is not being recognized by the system. This will result in a trio of warning lights, ABS, Brake, and DSC. This will also result in loss of DSC, but not ABS. I had this code and eventually had to replace the steering angle sensor. 5E16 is a CAN bus timeout on the instrument cluster, could be any number of things but is probably related to the SAS trying to make a connection to the main system and failing. 5DC0 is a right rear wheel speed sensor electrical failure. This will also cause the same trio of warning lights, loss of DSC. 5E40 is a "steering angle not plausible" warning, meaning that the steering angle sensor is sensing a steering position that is impossible(I also had this code when my SAS went bad). If these codes come up every time you get the dash lights (ABS/DSC and Brake) then at least you have a starting point.

In order to remove the ABS/DSC controller, the easiest method is to remove the driver's side front wheel(assuming you have left hand drive) and the black plastic wheel bay lining. It's 5 or 6 black plastic push in type fasteners and a couple of nuts, not hard to get it off at all. Once the wheel lining is off, you have easy and open access to all the fasteners and fittings on the ABS/DSC pump and controller. If you decide to remove the pump you have to drain the master cylinder and put some kind of bucket or something under the pump when you disconnect the lines so the fluid in the lines doesn't get all over the place. Take off the controller BEFORE you try and remove the pump. If you have a car built after 1/2006, the ABS/DSC controller and pump are different than pre-facelift cars. These newer controllers CANNOT be rebuilt or repaired as they are sealed units.

Resetting the steering angle sensor is done by computer software. You will need to get NCS Expert or INPA or DIS/Progman and a cable. You can buy them on ebay for $40. Someone told me there may be a manual way to reset the SAS, but I have never tried it. It involves turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, and back to the right. I'm sure you can find more on this with a forum search.

If you have a bad steering angle sensor, you do not need to remove the steering column to replace it as BMW says. The local BMW dealer wanted around $300 for the part, and another $1300 to install it(almost all of the labor is removing and re-installing the steering column) Removing and replacing the actual SAS from the steering column takes about 10 minutes once you do the preliminaries. I bought a used SAS from a low mileage car for $65 and installed it myself for free. It took about 2 hours. If you decide to go that route, LMK and I can help you with the install, I think I even took some pictures when I did it.

If I were in your shoes, I would first buy the OBD2 cable and software, take some time to learn how to use the software and then when the dash lights come on, pull the codes immediately after the dash lights come on. It's either that or pay the big $ to a dealer. The software will also allow you to reinstall the ABS/DSC pump/controller and do the proper fluid flush and replacement yourself. Based on the info you have given, I seriously doubt that your ABS pump is bad. The pump itself is a mechanical device that either works or it doesn't. I just can't see it working for a while, then failing, then working again. The controller, wheel speed sensors and SAS on the other hand have been known to exhibit this type of behavior. You might want to start by inspecting/cleaning all of your wheel speed sensors. They have a tendency to get cluttered with magnetic shavings.
Hi, i know that this thread is a bit old, but im hoping that someone can help me out with my Problem. i have this TRIFECTA issue before and i have my ABS module Rebuild then installed.
it works for atleast 7 mths and TRIFECTA is back., so i have to send the ABS Module back for fixing, now after installing lights where gone but then comes back and i notice that the ABS Pump is running even the Vehicle is off and drains the battery. what do i have to check or do to solve this Problem. PLEASE HELP..... Thank you in advance
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