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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #601  
Old 08-01-2019, 01:42 AM
Richneerd Richneerd is offline
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Originally Posted by Michael_Bee View Post
X4 19" wheels powder coated bronze for my E83. Anyone here run coil overs?

Nice and clean, I was going to buy coilovers, instead I went for H&R springs and Bilstein shocks.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...uty-shock-set/

Love them! Not too low or high! Feels better than OEM.
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  #602  
Old 08-01-2019, 03:16 AM
Michael_Bee Michael_Bee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richneerd View Post
Nice and clean, I was going to buy coilovers, instead I went for H&R springs and Bilstein shocks.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...uty-shock-set/

Love them! Not too low or high! Feels better than OEM.


Iím also thinking this route. Iíd like to have an OEM+ feel. I am concerned about it being over stiff. KW V3 seems to be the only company on the market that offers a coil over option.


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  #603  
Old 08-01-2019, 08:23 AM
FireFly1 FireFly1 is offline
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Funny you mention this, as a dealership will take $1300 dollars of your hard earned cash to replace a 35 dollar part! LOL I did mine as well at 146K, the rubber basically turns into plastic over time and doesn't hold a seal, best to catch it earlier than later. Thankfully I have a couple of mom and pop shops near me that do great work at 1/3 the cost, when I don't have time.
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  #604  
Old 08-04-2019, 08:04 PM
Be-Em-Ve Be-Em-Ve is offline
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Originally Posted by mitch500 View Post
Found this, ordered new springs.

That's how mine were on both sides when I bought it, didn't pass the safety inspection. I replaced them with a pair of oem type Lesjofors springs, a year now and so far so good.
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  #605  
Old 08-04-2019, 09:48 PM
bmwx3e83 bmwx3e83 is offline
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Replaced both belts today as they were both cracked. X3 M54 is such a joy to work on without taking off fan clutches and fan shrouds. Torx 60?! Why BMW? Had to buy one of those. Not sure when Id ever use that size again except when I have to take off the belt again.
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  #606  
Old 08-05-2019, 12:22 AM
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BimmurBrothor BimmurBrothor is offline
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Did some tinkering with the doors of the 04 and the 06 today. Discovered the rear passenger speaker unplugged on the wife's 04, also discovered leakage (due to vapour barrier not in tact).... on the 06 I found the vapour barrier ripped...I know I'm leaking there...didn't have one on hand must make the order...and it's raining today

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Do you think i can salvage this with maybe some strong plastic? *Cheap
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  #607  
Old 08-08-2019, 08:14 PM
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frisbeeguy frisbeeguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmurBrothor View Post
Did some tinkering with the doors of the 04 and the 06 today. Discovered the rear passenger speaker unplugged on the wife's 04, also discovered leakage (due to vapour barrier not in tact).... on the 06 I found the vapour barrier ripped...I know I'm leaking there...didn't have one on hand must make the order...and it's raining today

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Do you think i can salvage this with maybe some strong plastic? *Cheap
wow...that's a real botch job...lol. I wonder how you put up with that musty water smell...lol, my nose is sensitive, so I identify water leaks really fast

As for ideas, if you don't want to get a new sound barrier, you can get plastic sheeting from home depot, and use OE butyl tape....important part is the OE tape b/c of the width.

Last edited by frisbeeguy; 08-08-2019 at 08:16 PM.
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  #608  
Old 08-09-2019, 12:07 AM
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BimmurBrothor BimmurBrothor is offline
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Originally Posted by frisbeeguy View Post
wow...that's a real botch job...lol. I wonder how you put up with that musty water smell...lol, my nose is sensitive, so I identify water leaks really fast

As for ideas, if you don't want to get a new sound barrier, you can get plastic sheeting from home depot, and use OE butyl tape....important part is the OE tape b/c of the width.
Yeah frisbeeguy its not rained that much...i ride to work in back the one way trip maybe 10 min max...I did in the past, when I was investigating the disconnect in the rear floor line for the rear sprayer...I unplugged those drain plugs...so whe water don't stand. Anyway, I follow through with your recommendation...THANKS.

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  #609  
Old 08-09-2019, 12:51 PM
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I fixed my sagging headliner for now
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  #610  
Old 08-12-2019, 02:32 PM
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Replaced my transfer case actuator motor (the whole thing) and changed the TC oil (again). Then reset the oil adaptations and let the ecu know that there was a new transfer case actuator.

Fairly straightforward. The snap-on 1/4 inch swivel e10 socket that I purchased to do the oil filter housing gasket made it really easy. Lining up the crossmember bolts afterwards was a pain in the ass.

I never want to smell that oil again though....
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  #611  
Old 08-12-2019, 03:51 PM
C-Bass C-Bass is online now
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Finally got a chance to sort out the front brakes.

Got some fresh Zimmerman rotors and TRW pads in there now.
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  #612  
Old 08-12-2019, 04:30 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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I tried to straighten my steering wheel by loosening the lock nuts on the inner/outer tie rods. Once I got those loose one is supposed to be able to turn the inner tie rod in-out depending what you want to do.. how exactly is this possible? Are the wheels supposed to be off the ground to do this as to me this make sense since your not trying to pull the entire weight of vehicle/tires etc using the skimpy little tie rod.

I tried pulling the left inner tie rod in and I could not get it to turn at all.. thought I was going to snap the 13mm wrench..

I tried to follow buddies steps halfway down this page.. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Alignment-done


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  #613  
Old 08-12-2019, 05:01 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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If alignment was fine but steering wheel cocked, adjust at the steering column to not FUBAR the alignment, unless you adjust each side tie rod exactly the same. Tie rods are how you adjust toe-in. On one side, either the inner or outer is reverse threaded (the tie rod is essentially a heavy duty turn-buckle).


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  #614  
Old 08-12-2019, 05:10 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
If alignment was fine but steering wheel cocked, adjust at the steering column to not FUBAR the alignment, unless you adjust each side tie rod exactly the same. Tie rods are how you adjust toe-in. On one side, either the inner or outer is reverse threaded (the tie rod is essentially a heavy duty turn-buckle).


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Duke, alignment is perfect the miles Iíve put on the car now the tires are wearing nice and even. Car tracks perfectly straight just the damn wheel is crooked, drives me nuts looking at it.

I wonder if my issue was that itís reverse threaded? But that doesnít make sense either because no matter which way i turn it I should be able to move the inner tie rod IN/OUT...


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  #615  
Old 08-12-2019, 05:38 PM
CoolShirtDude CoolShirtDude is online now
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Yes, one side is reverse thread, you should make a mark and turn each in opposite directions in equal amounts. It doesnít take much, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
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  #616  
Old 08-12-2019, 06:07 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by CoolShirtDude View Post
Yes, one side is reverse thread, you should make a mark and turn each in opposite directions in equal amounts. It doesnít take much, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Yah, I saw that and made marks. We are talking about the inner tie rod thats reverse threaded right? Not the actual lock nuts, lol?

I only attempted the drivers side and after about 40minutes said screw that and just tightened the lock nuts back..

Again, Im not sure how the reverse threading matters. I should be able to turn either inner tie rod in/out to adjust my toe so there shouldnot be a reverse thread etc.. Or am I missing something here?

Last edited by jeepo23; 08-12-2019 at 06:12 PM.
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  #617  
Old 08-13-2019, 05:52 AM
abscate abscate is offline
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7500 mile oil change interval with Mobil 1 HM and generated 6 liters of nice top off oil for my Volvo beater that uses 1 liter per 2500 miles.
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  #618  
Old 08-13-2019, 05:53 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Mucking with the tie rods will destroy your alignment. Don't try and adjust the toe; adjust the column at the splined end of the u-joint.
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  #619  
Old 08-13-2019, 05:56 AM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Mucking with the tie rods will destroy your alignment. Don't try and adjust the toe; adjust the column at the splined end of the u-joint.
Where exactly is this done?
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  #620  
Old 08-13-2019, 07:25 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepo23 View Post
Where exactly is this done?
The steering column has a u-joint at the bottom of it; one end is splined, the other is keyed IIRC. Undo the splined end (I think the upper side) and simply rotate the steering wheel a tooth or two. It's been about 7 years since I messed with a BMW steering coupling so my orientations my be off. Attacking Mid just loosened his as part of his oil pan job, he'd have more precise info on specific end connections.
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  #621  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:29 PM
bmwx3e83 bmwx3e83 is offline
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Technically I didn't do anything except drive to the dealership. Finally got my passenger occupancy mat recall done. No more incessant beeping about seatbelt buckling when no one's even in the front passenger seat. So happy I got this done. Free car wash too. They recommended I change my:
1. transfer case fluid for $420
2. Oil change for $99.95
3. Replace outer front passenger CV boot for $440

Already replaced #1 on the list. Crush washers were 16 cents. Fluid was $35.99
#2 planned in the next 1300 miles (replaced every 5000 miles)
#3- Need help. The boot shows some signs of cracking but hasn't torn and showing no signs of leaking. Has anyone just changed the outer CV boot?
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  #622  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:41 PM
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Attacking Mid Attacking Mid is offline
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Yes, you can just change the boot. It's not too bad a job on these cars so long as you have the tools to remove the 300 ft.-lb torqued axle nut. Once the nut is off, simply remove the bolt nearest the engine on the control arm that goes straight toward the engine. That will allow you to swing the hub assy out far enough to remove the axle from the hub. You don't even have to touch any brake components this way. Once it's free from the hub, apply enough force to the axle to overcome the spring clip that holds the axle in the differential. The outer boot has to come off the "inside" end of the axle, so you'll have to remove the inner boot for access. I would recommend getting GKN boots.

There's also a "cheater" method that should work, though I haven't verified. It is also something the E53 guys are doing, but I bet it would also work on the E83: Simply remove that control arm (dog bone) bolt mentioned above. Then remove the inner boot and pull the tripod tree out of the cup. Remove the tripod tree, remove your boots, then reverse to go back together. Some guys claim they can change a boot in 30 minutes this way. Here's the thread on the E53 forum: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...0-minutes.html

AM.

Last edited by Attacking Mid; 08-15-2019 at 06:21 AM.
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  #623  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:46 PM
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Attacking Mid Attacking Mid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
The steering column has a u-joint at the bottom of it; one end is splined, the other is keyed IIRC. Undo the splined end (I think the upper side) and simply rotate the steering wheel a tooth or two. It's been about 7 years since I messed with a BMW steering coupling so my orientations my be off. Attacking Mid just loosened his as part of his oil pan job, he'd have more precise info on specific end connections.
Both joints I loosened were splined to prevent incorrect alignment. I don't know if the other ends of those joints were free to be rotate or not. I always thought the tierods were how you centered the steering wheel, but I've never had to do that on one of my vehicles.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

AM.
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  #624  
Old 08-15-2019, 05:55 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
Both joints I loosened were splined to prevent incorrect alignment. I don't know if the other ends of those joints were free to be rotate or not. I always thought the tierods were how you centered the steering wheel, but I've never had to do that on one of my vehicles.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

AM.
Single keyway to prevent mis-alignment? On my E46, the u-joint was splined so that if removed from the column, it could be turned a tooth or two and slid back on. I looked at a picture of the part on ECS and looked the same, and if so, that's where I'd get the wheel turned. Barring that, the tie rods are the way to go; I'm fuzzy on how the tie rods on an E83 are set up, but looks like they're 2 piece and not 3 piece (like a true turnbuckle), which means the end of the tie rod would have to be popped out of the knuckle before turning.
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  #625  
Old 08-15-2019, 06:16 AM
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Attacking Mid Attacking Mid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Single keyway to prevent mis-alignment? On my E46, the u-joint was splined so that if removed from the column, it could be turned a tooth or two and slid back on. I looked at a picture of the part on ECS and looked the same, and if so, that's where I'd get the wheel turned. Barring that, the tie rods are the way to go; I'm fuzzy on how the tie rods on an E83 are set up, but looks like they're 2 piece and not 3 piece (like a true turnbuckle), which means the end of the tie rod would have to be popped out of the knuckle before turning.
Yes, one end at least was keyed with a tall fin. I took out one end of two different joints, so I didn't look at the other end of either.

AM.
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