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  #1  
Old 07-25-2019, 07:40 PM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Help with some error codes...Transmission Malfunction

Hi guys, I posted about a month ago that I received Transmission Malfunction error when I was leaving the gym and merging into the highway. Long story short, I gave it gas to merge and once I hit about 30-40 mph, the power was not there, I heard the RPMs get Loud and I had to stay at about 30 mph because the vehicle would not go faster, Very scary moment.

I had a few friends with regular hand held scanners who got codes: 400441 Ratio Monitoring Clutch E Implausible. Another gave codes: 210901 Alternator no communication and cd930.

I posted that here on the forums and was mentioned to get insta+. Finally after downloading it and buying a windows laptop, I have installed it successfully and managed to scan my 7 series but honestly, I have no idea where to start regarding the codes.
I am posting the screen shots and maybe someone knows about it.

I believe that under the "Is currently present" tab, 2 say they are "unknown" and are the Current main errors.

1. 400341 Ratio monitoring, gearshift 4-5 implausible ( I think this is the 400441 Ratio Monitoring Clutch E implausible that one of the hand held scanners got)

2. 481F81 RDC: Internal Control-Unit Fault ( I believe this is the TPMS error for the tires)

3. 8029C7 Locking Protection + 400641 Parking Gear Incorrectly engaged ( I think this is the reason why when I start my car, put it in Drive, it will Pause a few seconds and then go back to Park on its own. I shift again to Drive and it will take like 5 seconds before actually moving)

Prior to this which all happened in June...Back in January/February, I got my valve stem seals replaced under the lawsuit. They gave me a new battery as well. I paid to get my turbo coolant lines replaced as well since the rep recommended this.
One other thing, I noticed back in winter time when the weather was very cold, I got drivetrain malfunction error in November 2018

Also, regarding Ista+, once I am done getting my codes for my car, how do I "safely" exit out of the program? Just take out the ENET cable?

Thank you in advance for any help that you guys can offer. I greatly appreciate it.
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Last edited by hgarcia; 07-25-2019 at 07:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2019, 07:51 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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As long as you are in the diagnostic mode, you can just diconnect the cable. Shutdown the job 1st, then exit the program.

The 1st 2 thing I would address would be the battery unvoltage, & the BSD line from the alternator. Take a screenshot of your codes, then delete them. If the codes come back, then address them. How old is your battery, & do you ever charge it? Since our cars drain so much voltage from the battery, it should be charged monthly, with some type of AGM battery charger. Once the battery is charged, the other problems might go away?

If you have a VOM around the house, measure the battery voltage cold, with the engine off & the headlights on. The battery should be above 12 volts. With the engine running, the voltage at the jump terminal should be around 14 volts.
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Old 07-26-2019, 08:01 PM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
As long as you are in the diagnostic mode, you can just diconnect the cable. Shutdown the job 1st, then exit the program.

The 1st 2 thing I would address would be the battery unvoltage, & the BSD line from the alternator. Take a screenshot of your codes, then delete them. If the codes come back, then address them. How old is your battery, & do you ever charge it? Since our cars drain so much voltage from the battery, it should be charged monthly, with some type of AGM battery charger. Once the battery is charged, the other problems might go away?

If you have a VOM around the house, measure the battery voltage cold, with the engine off & the headlights on. The battery should be above 12 volts. With the engine running, the voltage at the jump terminal should be around 14 volts.
The crazy part is that the battery is practically brand new. They changed the seals back in February of this year and the rep told me that they replaced the battery (recall I think)
I never have charged my battery, don't know how to honestly.

Thank you for responding.
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Old 07-29-2019, 01:50 PM
isstatu1 isstatu1 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
As long as you are in the diagnostic mode, you can just diconnect the cable. Shutdown the job 1st, then exit the program.

The 1st 2 thing I would address would be the battery unvoltage, & the BSD line from the alternator. Take a screenshot of your codes, then delete them. If the codes come back, then address them. How old is your battery, & do you ever charge it? Since our cars drain so much voltage from the battery, it should be charged monthly, with some type of AGM battery charger. Once the battery is charged, the other problems might go away?

If you have a VOM around the house, measure the battery voltage cold, with the engine off & the headlights on. The battery should be above 12 volts. With the engine running, the voltage at the jump terminal should be around 14 volts.
What's the proper battery charging procedure? Does it have to be taken out of the car for a recharge?
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:49 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Charge the battery at the jump terminal under the hood, with some type of AGM battery charger. It is a good practice to charge the battery every month or two, to keep it in top shape.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:53 PM
Prezzi Prezzi is online now
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looks like the faulty door handle might be draining your battery. Try disconnecting the problem door handle. If its not that try the disconnecting the faulty RDC module.
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:29 AM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
Charge the battery at the jump terminal under the hood, with some type of AGM battery charger. It is a good practice to charge the battery every month or two, to keep it in top shape.
I finally got the ctek charger. I left it charging yesterday late afternoon and this morning it is still on level 6. It's been 14 hours. Is that normal? Right from the start, it was at level 3. Noticed within the hour that the charger was very hot. This morning, level 6, it's not hot.
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:43 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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My Ctek only has 4 levels, but I have seen new batteries off of the shelf take 14 hours to reach a full charge. Did the full charge help any of your problems?
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:19 AM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
My Ctek only has 4 levels, but I have seen new batteries off of the shelf take 14 hours to reach a full charge. Did the full charge help any of your problems?
here is the ctek I purchased:CTEK 56-959) Silver MUS 4.3 Test & Charge 12 Volt Fully Automatic Charger and Tester

stays on Level 6 for hours and does not move to 7


The transmission issue still seems to be there because if I give it gas, the rpms will make a Loud noise and I get hit with the transmission malfunction error.
Also, the first time I go in my car during the day and start it up, when I shift from P to D, it will pause for like 5 seconds and go back to D. After the 2nd time, it will finally let me give it gas and pull away...not before making a loud noise

I will hook up ista this week and see if any codes cleared up.
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2019, 06:43 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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That really sounds like you might be low on fluid, I would have that serviced before it becomes expensive. It is also possible that your Mechatronic Adapter seal that holds the pressure from the valve body to the gearbox might be leaking. The seal is cheap at around 20.00, & it takes around a hour to drop the valve body & button everything back up. Adding the fluid back can be challenging the 1st time, but after that you will learn easier ways. The pan/filter, seals, & fluid will be around 300.00 for the parts. A shop will probably charge between 550.00 to 800.00.
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Old Yesterday, 11:19 AM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
That really sounds like you might be low on fluid, I would have that serviced before it becomes expensive. It is also possible that your Mechatronic Adapter seal that holds the pressure from the valve body to the gearbox might be leaking. The seal is cheap at around 20.00, & it takes around a hour to drop the valve body & button everything back up. Adding the fluid back can be challenging the 1st time, but after that you will learn easier ways. The pan/filter, seals, & fluid will be around 300.00 for the parts. A shop will probably charge between 550.00 to 800.00.

Thanks HerbP. Is there a way to measure how much transmission fluid there currently is in the vehicle ? Can it be checked with ISTA? Thank you
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Old Yesterday, 05:23 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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There is not a way to measure the fluid, unless you drain the pan. If you are low after you have drained it, you will know how much. You should drain the fluid & replace every 50k miles, to keep things shifting properly. When the fluid gets old, it turns acidic & starts eating the rubber seals. The Mechatroinic Adapter seal is usually the one that gets hard, then the fluid starts to bypass the valve body causing erratic shifting.
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