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  #1  
Old 08-08-2019, 06:51 PM
WhyNot373 WhyNot373 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 BMW 750Li XDrive
Several Issues on my F02

Hello, I just moved from a 2008 MB CLS550 to a 2010 750Li XDrive and the transition has not been pleasant. The car seemed to be in great condition when I purchased it but after a month I've had a number of issues come up. Any help on any of these issues would be great.

The first issue was one day upon start up I got a tpms malfunction light. I tried restarting but it was persistent so I checked the pressures but the largest difference was 1 psi. From what I read it sound like the transmitter but I've yet to look into it fully.

The second was also upon start up. It . was not smooth and was stumbling to get to its normal idle rpm. It eventually . cleared up and ran smooth until it reached its normal operating temperature. After that accelerating from a stop was not smooth and it felt like there was transmission issue as it would run very rough and jolt every time it changed gears. I put it in manual and shifted smoothly so I accounted it to the rough running. When I shut the car off I started it back up and got a cylinder 6 misfire. I cleared the code and it did not return for a week even though it had the same symptoms. I just got in a new set of spark plugs and a coil so I put the plugs in and changed the coil on 6 but nothing has changed except now when I pass over 5000 rpm I get drivetrain malfunction and cylinders 1, 3, 6, and 7 have misfires. I checked my work several times and nothing seems out of order. All the old plugs looked original and VERY rich and sooty.This leads me to believe the injectors but I'd like a few more opinions before I shell out more money.

The third issue is that consistently upon start up I now get a "Driving Comfort Reduced!" message and then the frontal collision warning and autohold go out and the "Chassis Stability Malfunction 4x4" light comes on. The first time this occurred I was accelerating mid corner on an on ramp at an angle. The strange thing about this issue seemed like the light would only come on if the car was at an angle but now I believe it only happens on the first start up because it does not appear usually after I shut off and restart. I'm thinking this might be the battery because every now and then I'll get a "Battery Discharging While Stopped" but I do think the other circumstances are strange. I topped up my power steering fluid because it seemed low but it didn't change anything.

Sorry for the long post but I'm looking for any help I can get. The issues seem to keep piling up.
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2019, 07:03 PM
isstatu1 isstatu1 is offline
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For the TPMS a sensor in a wheel might be bad. Go to a tire place and see of they can check if all 4 wheels are transmitting the signal.

Also, if you get the driving comfort reduced can you change the driving mode to something else than normal and speed up to 30mph? Does it stay on the mode you selected, or does it switch back to normal?
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:14 PM
WhyNot373 WhyNot373 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isstatu1 View Post
For the TPMS a sensor in a wheel might be bad. Go to a tire place and see of they can check if all 4 wheels are transmitting the signal.

Also, if you get the driving comfort reduced can you change the driving mode to something else than normal and speed up to 30mph? Does it stay on the mode you selected, or does it switch back to normal?
Ok I will try to take it somewhere to test the sensors. Also it switches back to normal mode.
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:23 PM
isstatu1 isstatu1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyNot373 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by isstatu1 View Post
For the TPMS a sensor in a wheel might be bad. Go to a tire place and see of they can check if all 4 wheels are transmitting the signal.

Also, if you get the driving comfort reduced can you change the driving mode to something else than normal and speed up to 30mph? Does it stay on the mode you selected, or does it switch back to normal?
Ok I will try to take it somewhere to test the sensors. Also it switches back to normal mode.
Do you have a code reader? Would be helpful if you could pull the codes.

I also have a problem with reduced comfort. It doesn't switch modes and also my suspension is stuck in sport mode.

In your case it might be because you have a TPMS light on as well.
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:31 PM
WhyNot373 WhyNot373 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isstatu1 View Post
Do you have a code reader? Would be helpful if you could pull the codes.

I also have a problem with reduced comfort. It doesn't switch modes and also my suspension is stuck in sport mode.

In your case it might be because you have a TPMS light on as well.
I don't have a reader capable of pulling those codes. The tpms light was on for about 2 weeks before the driving comfort reduced message started so I'm not sure they are related.
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2019, 07:33 PM
isstatu1 isstatu1 is offline
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If you have a Windows laptop you could get a ~$30 cable and ISTA diagnostic software which would be able to pull the codes and help you diagnose the issues with your car.
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Old 08-09-2019, 06:56 AM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyNot373 View Post
Ok I will try to take it somewhere to test the sensors. Also it switches back to normal mode.
your first two situations sound just like mine.

check my thread out...I haven't fixed anything yet. Have an appointment next week
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1339943

Supposedly the tpms is the sensor going bad.
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2019, 06:17 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Sounds to me like a bad battery, or one that is very low on voltage. Our batteries need to stay above 12 volts when the engine is not running & the headlight on. Try charging your battery 1st. If this doesn't help, replace the battery. Low voltage will cause your problems.
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Old 08-09-2019, 08:19 PM
WhyNot373 WhyNot373 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isstatu1 View Post
If you have a Windows laptop you could get a ~$30 cable and ISTA diagnostic software which would be able to pull the codes and help you diagnose the issues with your car.
I just purchased a cable, should be here next week. I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer for diagnosis but I'm pretty sure my injectors are leaking and I need a new battery.
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Old 08-10-2019, 05:52 AM
hgarcia hgarcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyNot373 View Post
I just purchased a cable, should be here next week. I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer for diagnosis but I'm pretty sure my injectors are leaking and I need a new battery.
Did you get your valve stem seals done ?
There was a lawsuit for that.
They did mine in January of this year and replaced my battery.

Also, I briefly read about the injectors having 10 year/120,000 miles warranty but I am not sure if we qualify.

I have an appointment next week regarding injector issue. Hopefully I'm covered under the 10 years. My vehicle doesn't even have 70,000 on it
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2019, 03:10 PM
WhyNot373 WhyNot373 is offline
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Originally Posted by hgarcia View Post
Did you get your valve stem seals done ?
There was a lawsuit for that.
They did mine in January of this year and replaced my battery.

Also, I briefly read about the injectors having 10 year/120,000 miles warranty but I am not sure if we qualify.

I have an appointment next week regarding injector issue. Hopefully I'm covered under the 10 years. My vehicle doesn't even have 70,000 on it
I found out it had the customer care service done in 2015. The current injectors are index 11 and my research says that the black and "fuely" spark plugs is an indication of leaking injectors so I'm hoping they are covered under that. I'm taking it in on Monday for diagnosis at the dealer. I plan to tackle the injectors if that is the case. It also seems that my chassis stability malfunction light is being much more persistent and so is the charge battery light after shutting off.
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2019, 06:47 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Install a new battery since you are taking it to the dealer. They will run diagnostics, & might register the battery for free or very little. I think a lot of your problems might go away after changing the battery. Pep Boys carries the Bosch battery with a 4 year warranty for around 170.00, with a online coupon. Dealer cost will be around 220.00 if negotiated to a lower price. I really think the BMW/Exide battery is the best way to go. It might cost a little more, but worth it in the long run.
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2019, 07:22 PM
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paprmkr paprmkr is offline
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Where you located. If in SoCal I would gladly scan your car with ISTA software


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