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Old 08-09-2019, 03:55 PM
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Bimmer32 Bimmer32 is offline
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Auxiliary Battery in a F01 / F02? Where?

I think my dealer is pulling a fast one. I took my car in for a Steering warning / drive moderately. See Service Center. And they want to replace the auxiliary battery for $840 saying that it is responsible for the power steering motor.

I know MB has a small auxiliary battery for the accessories and some BMW models (other forum threads talked about it) have it too, but the cost to replace it is just outrageous. MB's auxiliary battery is a small UPS sized battery that cost about $35 last time I checked for my MB E350.

Could anyone shine a light into this situation? Thank you.
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Old 08-09-2019, 06:21 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Here is a link to New Tis for your car. A search does not seem to show that option, but it might be possible. The battery is located in the trunk, maybe they think that is a AUX battery?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...?q=aux+battery
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:34 PM
Robin750 Robin750 is offline
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I believe you have IAS, correct? LCI models with IAS have 24V EPS, which on the G12 requires an auxiliary battery (in the engine compartment). I'm guessing the F01 is similar, check under the trunk floor to confirm. I doubt there is any space in the engine bay for it.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ery/1VnXzY6x4V

Maybe you can replace it yourself? I'm guessing it might also require registration.
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Old 08-10-2019, 07:45 PM
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You'll are so resourceful. Thank you for the links. I was doing some research today on realoem.com and found the item number: 61212432179 for the auxiliary battery. Apparently, all BMW with EPS have this battery as an additional (different size), and it's about as expensive as the main battery. ~$192

When the weather is less than 100 degrees outside, I'm going to see if it is in the same area as the main battery. A master tech told me that the pre LCI 09-12 has a partial hydraulic IAS system. Hence, no battery is needed. With the LCI (13'-15'), they went full electronic power steering for F01/F02 with IAS and ARS. That probably accounts for why there were much fewer LCI models with IAS and ARS due to a different system and cost. Both the Auxiliary battery and the main battery has not been replaced, so I'm running on 6+ years.

In the end, my master tech can do it for much much cheaper than what the dealer wants. Looks like two battery replacements every 6 years or less from here on out.
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Last edited by Bimmer32; 08-10-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 08-11-2019, 06:42 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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If we all get 6 years out of a battery, we are doing something right!
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:12 PM
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I looked in the trunk the other day. Seems like the auxiliary battery is more expensive than the main battery. But it is smaller.
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Last edited by Bimmer32; 08-15-2019 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:42 PM
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My hands starts to itch when I have slow time, and I think I'm going to attempt to replace the batteries myself. If half way, my back gives out, I'll have to drive it to one of the shops near me and let them finish the rest.

My question is, does the auxiliary battery also need to be registered/reset? My instinct is that it does not. In any case, this battery is about 1/4 size of the main battery, yet, it cost more than the main battery at a cool retail price of ~$265.

I'll post some pics when I have time, and maybe some instructions. It will be rare that anyone with an LCI will also have ARS/IAS. So if you do not have these features, you will likely not need to replace such battery. In any case, it will help me remember what I did years from now. Stay tune.
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Old 08-23-2019, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer32 View Post
My hands starts to itch when I have slow time, and I think I'm going to attempt to replace the batteries myself. If half way, my back gives out, I'll have to drive it to one of the shops near me and let them finish the rest.

My question is, does the auxiliary battery also need to be registered/reset? My instinct is that it does not. In any case, this battery is about 1/4 size of the main battery, yet, it cost more than the main battery at a cool retail price of ~$265.

I'll post some pics when I have time, and maybe some instructions. It will be rare that anyone with an LCI will also have ARS/IAS. So if you do not have these features, you will likely not need to replace such battery. In any case, it will help me remember what I did years from now. Stay tune.
When registering the battery with the ISTA Service Function, look to see if there is anything for the Aux battery. Be very careful removing the ground wire connector from the battery, where you will not damage the fusible link. I would just remove the main battery, then get all of the specs for the Aux battery. Take the spec & cross the battery over to a aftermarket brand. If you are going to buy the batteries from the dealer, the Main battery can be purchased for around 200.00. Negotiate your price with the dealer.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:36 PM
dvanlare dvanlare is offline
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The aux battery seems similar to what would be found on a motorcycle. Doing some searching it looks to be basically this battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-S6590B-.../dp/B00HQCJNKI

Last edited by dvanlare; 08-24-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2019, 08:22 PM
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Alright. So it all started with the steering error.
Click image for larger version

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Dealer said it was the Auxiliary battery. That is the smaller battery.
Click image for larger version

Name:	battery stack.JPG
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part 61-21-2-432-179 compared to the main battery part number 61-21-2-353-814

I used this youtube video to help get the side panel and trunk panel open.

Basically, you will need a 10mm and 13mm socket. I had to remove all the pieces to get to the auxiliary battery. It was not too bad. Just a lot of bending over. Remember to unclip the green fuel release lever. Watch the video; good tips. I had a few more parts to remove, but it is quite intuitive once you get it. This is what it looks like:
Click image for larger version

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To the right is the Auxiliary battery. Remove the four hex nuts (13mm).
Click image for larger version

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Lift up the black bracket carefully because there is a module that is screwed on to it. Once you lift it up, you will see the AUX battery laying on its side. The two big red cables (one with a black strip) are leads to the AUX battery. Pic below is the AUX battery pulled out.
Click image for larger version

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You probably wonder why I circled that small module next to the battery. I'll tell you later.
In any case, replace that battery with the new one. Make sure to tighten everything back, and make sure that NOTHING CAME LOOSE when you are moving things around.
Everything ran normal and no more steering wheel error.

Now, to the main battery. There are plenty of youtube videos on this one. No need to repeat it. Not sure if this is correct, but I remove the negative first. Then I remove the positive post and covered it to prevent any accidental discharge. When I reconnect, I connected the positive first and then the negative post. I lost time/date, and trip odometer. Everything else seems to be normal.

Oh. If your back is hurting like mind, I put one leg into the trunk and the other outside when taking the battery in and out of its' place.

Now to the fun stuff. I started the car, and it ran for 10 seconds, then I got the warning from the electronic fuel pump. I turned if off, and tried again. This time, it run for 2 seconds and shut off. All other power was fine. I started to Google about the issue, but I figured I ask my trusted friend (he is on this forum too . . . master tech). I sent him some close up pictures as requested, and of course, the pro figured it out. When I disconnected and moved the negative post/cable, it disconnected the EKPM3 module (the one I circled), and the male connector dropped below all the cables, so I was not able to see it.

The moral of the story is that if you find any loose ends, then you better find out where its' connected because BMW engineers don't just leave wires hanging around. More importantly, before you close up, make sure to tighten all connections whether you touched it or not.

I have a Snap-On Solus Ultra, but it does not do battery registration. Some of you may remember that many years ago, I replaced my 05 545i battery (lasted 5-6 years) with an aftermarket one of the same spec. and I argued that it does not have to be registered. That second battery lasted at least another 5+ years. For this car, I'll register it since I have another tool handy. It will just reset the charge log. The old battery on this car was dated 41/12 (41 weeks of 2012). The voltage reading was 12.39v. The new one is 12.65. If you look on the negative terminal, you will see the week/yr for you battery in case you did not know. The Auxiliary battery the dealer gave me was date 8/18 which tells you that they don't replace these batteries often. Sucks that I got a one year old battery out of the chute.
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Last edited by Bimmer32; 08-25-2019 at 08:45 PM.
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  #11  
Old 08-25-2019, 08:37 PM
Robin750 Robin750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer32 View Post
The moral of the story is that if you find any loose ends, then you better find out where its' connected because BMW engineers don't just leave wires hanging around. More importantly, before you close up, make sure to tighten all connects whether you touched it or not.
Glad you got it figured out.

Whenever I get lazy and don't take pictures before disassembly thinking I'll remember what goes where, that's usually when I have to spend double the amount of time trying to figure out which step I forgot to do. Fortunately the connectors on the power distribution box are keyed so I couldn't plug them in wrong!
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2019, 05:04 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer32 View Post
Alright. So it all started with the steering error.
Attachment 862325
Dealer said it was the Auxiliary battery. That is the smaller battery.
Attachment 862327
part 61-21-2-432-179 compared to the main battery part number 61-21-2-353-814

I used this youtube video to help get the side panel and trunk panel open.

Basically, you will need a 10mm and 13mm socket. I had to remove all the pieces to get to the auxiliary battery. It was not too bad. Just a lot of bending over. Remember to unclip the green fuel release lever. Watch the video; good tips. I had a few more parts to remove, but it is quite intuitive once you get it. This is what it looks like:
Attachment 862329
To the right is the Auxiliary battery. Remove the four hex nuts (13mm).
Attachment 862331
Lift up the black bracket carefully because there is a module that is screwed on to it. Once you lift it up, you will see the AUX battery laying on its side. The two big red cables (one with a black strip) are leads to the AUX battery. Pic below is the AUX battery pulled out.
Attachment 862333
You probably wonder why I circled that small module next to the battery. I'll tell you later.
In any case, replace that battery with the new one. Make sure to tighten everything back, and make sure that NOTHING CAME LOOSE when you are moving things around.
Everything ran normal and no more steering wheel error.

Now, to the main battery. There are plenty of youtube videos on this one. No need to repeat it. Not sure if this is correct, but I remove the negative first. Then I remove the positive post and covered it to prevent any accidental discharge. When I reconnect, I connected the positive first and then the negative post. I lost time/date, and trip odometer. Everything else seems to be normal.

Oh. If your back is hurting like mind, I put one leg into the trunk and the other outside when taking the battery in and out of its' place.

Now to the fun stuff. I started the car, and it ran for 10 seconds, then I got the warning from the electronic fuel pump. I turned if off, and tried again. This time, it run for 2 seconds and shut off. All other power was fine. I started to Google about the issue, but I figured I ask my trusted friend (he is on this forum too . . . master tech). I sent him some close up pictures as requested, and of course, the pro figured it out. When I disconnected and moved the negative post/cable, it disconnected the EKPM3 module (the one I circled), and the male connector dropped below all the cables, so I was not able to see it.

The moral of the story is that if you find any loose ends, then you better find out where its' connected because BMW engineers don't just leave wires hanging around. More importantly, before you close up, make sure to tighten all connections whether you touched it or not.

I have a Snap-On Solus Ultra, but it does not do battery registration. Some of you may remember that many years ago, I replaced my 05 545i battery (lasted 5-6 years) with an aftermarket one of the same spec. and I argued that it does not have to be registered. That second battery lasted at least another 5+ years. For this car, I'll register it since I have another tool handy. It will just reset the charge log. The old battery on this car was dated 41/12 (41 weeks of 2012). The voltage reading was 12.39v. The new one is 12.65. If you look on the negative terminal, you will see the week/yr for you battery in case you did not know. The Auxiliary battery the dealer gave me was date 8/18 which tells you that they don't replace these batteries often. Sucks that I got a one year old battery out of the chute.
You will get a 2 year warranty from the purchase date, hopefully it will last at least 4 years. Since you have a good DIY, I will add it to the DIY Sticky if you do not mind. The smaller battery looks like a garden tractor battery, hard to believe 200.00 for that battery. At 12.39 volts on the old battery, I would not dispose of it. Keep it around for something else you might need a battery for. The registration really does help keep electrical gremlins out of the car, as you can get all kind of random faults, not knowing that it is not a new battery. I have seen transmission problems from a battery that was not registered, & I was shocked that is what caused that fault. Glad you got ti replaced without any other problems.
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:43 PM
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Bimmer32 Bimmer32 is offline
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I bought a AutoPhix 7910 scanner from ebay from about $85, and it had the battery registration feature. It also has a feature for BMS reset (registration) for OEM battery replacement, an aftermarket for different amperage setting, and a conversion for AGM to lead-aid or registration.

Another quick note is to take a picture of the top of the battery especially the numbers above and below the QR Code. You will need these numbers on your new battery to register it. Otherwise, you will not be able to register the battery. Use either the 12 digit number OR the 10 digit or the 6 digit numbers.

Click image for larger version

Name:	20190827_195633.jpg
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ID:	862583

Another small thing to remember is that both batteries have the off-gas connector tubes. Remember to reconnect them when you change out either batteries.
Thanks, HerbP. You can do whatever you like with the post.
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Last edited by Bimmer32; 08-27-2019 at 07:49 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2019, 08:02 PM
Robin750 Robin750 is offline
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Originally Posted by Bimmer32 View Post
Another quick note is to take a picture of the top of the battery especially the numbers above and below the QR Code. You will need these numbers on your new battery to register it. Otherwise, you will not be able to register the battery. Use either the 12 digit number OR the 10 digit or the 6 digit numbers.
I forgot to take a picture of them and didn't feel like removing the trunk floor to get to it again, so I just skipped it (in ISTA) and that worked fine (the mileage updated). I assume that on a dealer system it's going to send the information to BMW, as I can't imagine why the car would need such detailed info.
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2019, 09:14 PM
Spark1 Spark1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Bimmer32 View Post
Both the Auxiliary battery and the main battery has not been replaced, so I'm running on 6+ years.

In the end, my master tech can do it for much much cheaper than what the dealer wants. Looks like two battery replacements every 6 years or less from here on out.
6 years is impressive!
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