Picture & amperage & description of every single fuse & relay in the BMW E39 - Page 2 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:50 AM
Bovario Bovario is offline
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DME Fuses

ASSUMING THE FUSE DESIGNATION BELOW TO BE TRUE, Reply # 22 IN THIS THREAD IS ALSO TRUE

IN THE White E-BOX UNDER PASSENGER SIDE CABIN AIR FILTER:
EF1 = 30A, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Injectors, SMG Hydraulic unit)
EF2 = 30A, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, SAS pump electrical valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Idle control valve, Fuel tank ventilation valve, Fuel pump)
EF3 = 20A, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors (some say it's 30A, others say 25A - E-box fan, Transmission RPM sensor, CPS, MAF sensor, Fuel pump relay, SAP relay, A/C Compressor relay, Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module, SMG selector lever)
EF4 = 30A, DME (some say it's 30A - Oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor heater circuits)
EF5 = 30A, Unloader relay, power to coils (some say it's 30A - Fuel injector relay)


I have a 2003 540i manual which threw "engine fail safe prog" message. After shutting it off, car would not restart. Luckily for me, I experienced the same thing as the guy in that thread…. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...OG-please-help I also got in touch with my indie who advised that the temp switch to replace is mounted on the thermostat housing. Based on the above referenced thread I finally managed to get to that fuse tray by the DME *NB. After undoing the four screws, there are two clips to the back right holding the E-box cover in place. I found it easier to remove the tray by raising the clip(facing the firewall) and lifting the tray out. After finally getting the lid off the tray I found the fuse closest to the clip to be blown (MY BASIS FOR AGREEING WITH THE LABELING IN REPLY # 22). The temp gauge was pegged to the right and car would turn over but not start prior to changing this fuse which convinces me that it controls power to the coil packs as indicated in reply #22…...all my fuses in that box are 30A by the way. _sl_ _sl_

Last edited by Bovario; 03-02-2014 at 05:54 AM.
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  #27  
Old 03-01-2014, 03:21 PM
cpcampbell cpcampbell is offline
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ABS/ASC Problem

I was wondering if I could get some help here. I have a 1997 BMW 528i automatic. My Speedometer, MPG, and odometer do not work. Also, I have no warning light from the ASC/ABS on my dash. So here is what I've done:
Replaced both rear wheel speed sensors (initially missing)
Checked all speed sensors-good
Checked the Dashboard to see if the lights were working or painted to hide the ASC problem light; it checked out good.
Checked for Power at pins 1, 19, and 51 on the ASC Control Box behind the Glove Box; no power at pin 19.
Checked for operation for both ABS relays in the Engine Relay box under the passenger side air box; the outermost relay works, the inner relay checked out satisfactory but doesn't get signal to energize.
I traced the lead that goes to pin 19 and found it gets power from the upside down relay just inboard of the two pink ABS relays; that relay does not get a signal to energize even with the engine running.
To be clear, when I talk about a relay getting a signal to energize, what I mean is that I know the Yellow/Green wire, for the relay coil, to have power, and the other wire connects through ground via a contact somewhere.
What I am trying to figure out is why the black, upside down, innermost relay is not energizing. I've tried to trace the Black/Grey wire, to no avail, to understand why. I do not have access to the wiring schematic, otherwise I would have licked this long ago. If you could help, please let me know.
Thank you
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  #28  
Old 03-02-2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bovario View Post
ASSUMING THE FUSE DESIGNATION BELOW TO BE TRUE, Reply # 22 IN THIS THREAD IS ALSO TRUE
Thank you for that analysis. I'll assume, going forward, that EF1 is to the left, and that EF5 is to the right.

I do know we can confirm by color of wires also, but, I myself have never figured out how to get the ebox cover off. Actually, I tried only once, and all I had wanted to do was snap a picture, so, I didn't try all that hard once it was clear that there was a trick of some sort necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bovario View Post
After undoing the four screws, there are two clips to the back right holding the E-box cover in place. I found it easier to remove the tray by raising the clip(facing the firewall) and lifting the tray out.
Thanks for providing the hint for getting that furstugenah cover off!
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  #29  
Old 03-02-2014, 06:03 PM
cpcampbell cpcampbell is offline
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Could anyone help me to get the BMW WDS working. When I go to the page, IE gives me a bar saying Internet Explorer block this website from installing an ActiveX Control. After I click the Install button it asks Do you want to allow this program from an unknown publisher to make changes to this computer, then I click Yes. Then it gives me Windows has blocked this program because it can't verify the publisher. Could anyone let me know what I must do to get WDS working?
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  #30  
Old 03-02-2014, 07:04 PM
cpcampbell cpcampbell is offline
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ABS/ASC won't turn on

OK, so here are pictures that I am using to diagnose the problem. I believe that my ABS/ASC Module is not coming on. It is getting power to pins 1 and 51, as it should. However, it is not getting a B+ reference voltage to pin 19; I believe this is a signal the ABS/ASC Module uses to know when the car is on and/or the engine is running. Pin 19 connects to a red/blue striper wire which I have traced to a solder connection in a wire bundle located in the control box under the passenger side cabin filter. The main lead to this red/blue striper is connected to the relay (see picture) that is to the right of the two pink relays (for the ABS); it is upside down so you see only the wires going to it. (I believe the relay is connected to a filter that regulates for a clean voltage signal.) What I am not getting is a signal to energize that relay, thus give my ABS/ASC Control Module the signal to turn on.

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The relay control wire is Black/Grey Striper, and I can not trace it down to find it's source, nor access BMW Planet WDS to look it up. Any ideas?

Also, sorry I posted the wrong schematic. Also, not to insult your knowledge, but according to the last picture, A is for output and E is for input. To be honest, I don't know if what I'm doing is easter egging, but I just hope I'm on the right track.

Last edited by cpcampbell; 03-03-2014 at 08:00 AM. Reason: incorrect picture attached
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  #31  
Old 03-18-2014, 08:33 AM
194449 194449 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
That's interesting because, at least on my bimmer, all five slots are spoken for:

Given the symmetry, my question has always been which end is EF1?
Have you actually looked at the bottom of that fuse holder in your ebox to confirm that every slot has terminal pins/wires leading out?
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  #32  
Old 03-18-2014, 08:56 AM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josemedeiros007 View Post
I have the same question, how do I get the DME fuse block cover off with out breaking it? There is a clip, and it looks like I broke it when I used a screw driver to unlatch it, but I still can't take off my cover, is it holding the fuse block into a socket?

Last night my 1998 BMW E39 528i started, ran rough and then died, I started it again, and it barely started and died, now it cranks over and doesn't appear to even try start at all so I am hoping it's just a fuse or a relay and not the fuel pump. Earlier that day, and all week it was running fine, and not even missing after cleaning the grounds last week.

My 15 amp fuse for the fuel pump in the trunk is not burnt, and has power but the car all of sudden won't start. I also have no computer trouble shooting codes using my Peak Research reader. I'll jack up the car and verify if the fuel pump is pumping gas by disconnecting the filter, but I can't seem to hear it running.

I am stranded in San Luis Obispo, so any help would be very much appreciated.

The unemployed IT guy!
Jose F. Medeiros
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http://www.linkedin.com/in/josemedeiros
It turned out to be a bad fuel pump. I was on a budget so I bought an Airtex, price was right, and the installation was straight forward after watching FCP Euro's you tube video. I noticed no symptoms prior to the fuel pump failing.

Last edited by josemedeiros007; 03-18-2014 at 08:57 AM.
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  #33  
Old 04-18-2014, 08:44 PM
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For reference, there is some troubleshooing for relays over in this thread today:
> 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003) > Lights but won't crank
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ermagerd View Post
Looks like the starter relay is in behind the glove compartment.
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  #34  
Old 04-18-2014, 11:44 PM
AZBimmerCpl AZBimmerCpl is offline
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FYI, this thread rocks!
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  #35  
Old 04-23-2014, 07:54 AM
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Complete the thread with naming of relays in the touring's rear. One of the small black ones is the central-locking relay. What is the other one?

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  #36  
Old 04-23-2014, 08:56 PM
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JDeGraff89 JDeGraff89 is offline
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Thank you so much Blue! I now know that my fuel pump relay is in the trunk and not. In my Ebox. In the Ebox is injector relay. Which I may also replace. They're the same relay anyway. Light green 5 prong right? Or 4 prong.. I forgot ill look it up in the morning.
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  #37  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:02 AM
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We found out something new about Fuse F28 today!
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Blower Motor Stopped working? Try This
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
According to WDS [what fuse F28 does] depends on build date.

A) up to 9/98 build date, i.e. model year 1998, fuse F28 30 amp, supplies the switched power side of a heater blower relay. This circuit supplies power to the FSU.

B) model years 1999 and later, F28 15 amp, supplies the auto transmission control module.
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  #38  
Old 04-27-2014, 09:04 PM
tbass tbass is offline
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Car won't start. Fuse EF2 (i think) keeps blowing

Bluebee,
I've spent all day looking through the forums and can't find my answer. I see you are very active and have the same car I do (although, mine is a Touring). I replaced my oil separator yesterday and the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not start. I found out it was one of the 30A fuses in the E-box under the passenger side cabin filter. So, I replaced it and car started right up. I drove it around and when I stopped (turn off ignition) the car wouldn't start again. So, i replaced the fuse again and the car started. I drove it directly home and parked it in the garage. After parking in my garage, the car stopped and started fine. This morning, it won't start again. After replacing the fuse, it will just blow them when I attempt to start the car. It won't even let me start the car once. I took off the intake ductwork and disconnected all the sensors, and reconnected them, still no luck. It blows the fuse everytime. It is the second fuse up from the bottom of this picture. https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...1&d=1365450880

Thanks for reading. Your posts have been an immense help in the past.
I tried to PM, but your inbox was full.
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  #39  
Old 05-12-2014, 01:27 PM
redbird1946 redbird1946 is offline
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Ef1-ef5

If you need to check these fuses don't bother trying to remove the top (black or white) cover. The entire fuse box lifts straight out with little effort. You can then use a VU Meter to check the exposed connection end of the fuses inside the box.

Last edited by redbird1946; 05-12-2014 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Clarify
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  #40  
Old 06-07-2014, 02:21 PM
fibonacci fibonacci is offline
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Great post! I will refer to this next time I need it
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  #41  
Old 06-27-2014, 02:48 PM
roben.kh roben.kh is offline
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what is doing the switch like small box on sway bar in front suspension on bmw 530i 2003
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  #42  
Old 07-05-2014, 12:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This was asked today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2000 528i fuses
Quote:
Originally Posted by JA528i2000 View Post
What is the difference from the fuses in the glove box versus the fused in the trunk over the battery?
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  #43  
Old 07-09-2014, 04:50 PM
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This was asked today, which we ask users to answer who know the difference between the relays of the sedan versus the touring for testing the fuel pump relay...
- A quick test for fuel pump operation (1)
Photo by JimLev

Quote:
Originally Posted by bem-ster View Post
I've been through several of the best links and I've seen this particular post before. However my car seems to have a different configuration.

Here is is pic of my Relay Panel in the Trunk. Which Relay? I have 3 to chose from. The one in your link appears to be for a Wagon.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-09-2014 at 04:59 PM.
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  #44  
Old 07-09-2014, 05:06 PM
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pudl pudl is offline
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But bluebee... you already answered the question in post #2.
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  #45  
Old 07-09-2014, 05:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pudl View Post
But bluebee... you already answered the question in post #2.
Oh, yeah. Heh heh... Thanks for pointing that out!
Based on that, here's what I answered in the fuel-pump relay testing thread:
- No voltage at fuel pump connector?? E39 540i
Quote:
Originally Posted by bem-ster View Post
Which relay would be my "fuel pump" relay and do I jump the same pin #s (red arrows) shown in your pic?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Based on your car being a 2001 525i, I would say that your K96 fuel pump relay is behind the glovebox, as already shown in post #22 above, but I'll repeat it here for clarity:

I can't answer the question about jumping the pins, but I would 'assume' so, yet, I could understand your desire to wait for a bit more definitive answer from someone who actually knows the answer.
(PS: I have the same relay in the same location so I will benefit from whatever you iron out so let us know, with pictures, how you fare.)

See also the procedure for opening up the stuff under the glovebox for access to your test leads:
- One users experience diagnosing parasitic dead battery overnight current drain (1) & what's the secret to removing FSU blower motor fuse F76 (1)
EDIT: While there are three or four diagrams of the relays behind the glovebox in this thread, we could probably use an annotated photo or two from the users, so I hope that bem-ster can snap some for us.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-10-2014 at 12:23 AM.
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  #46  
Old 07-19-2014, 10:36 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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So, that others can benefit from this information, notice a few summary items from this thread:
> Detailed step by step diagnostic DIY ... dead battery ... parasitic current drain

The first is that the BMW spec is 40ma for quiescent current drain:

The second is that BMW intimates the car should be able to sit for about 6 weeks:

Given a good BMW E39 battery:

And, there is a quicker way to pinpoint which circuit is causing the parasitic drain other than waiting 16 minutes after pulling any one fuse (and then doing that over and over and over again):
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-19-2014 at 10:43 AM.
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  #47  
Old 07-22-2014, 06:26 PM
dragon6971 dragon6971 is offline
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I'm Sorry i may have missed it somewhere but i didnt see where the turn signal flasher relay was located. If someone could be specific it would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance.
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  #48  
Old 07-28-2014, 06:07 PM
2000323bmw 2000323bmw is offline
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P1145 engine code : ef3 fuse blown after I replace.Trans in limp mode but has reverse

What's up guys, I'm new to this forum but currently own a 2000 323i four door with 151,000 on it and I'm looking for a little help with regards to this thread. I have the engine light, dsc light, abs, and trans light on. The car has reverse and can switch into gear just seems very sluggish. The engine code is p1145 referring to some selenoid loses circuit? ( that isn't the exact meaning. ) but I have checked the ef3 30 amp fuse and it has bad. I changed the fuse of ef3 started the car and P gear came up and a few seconds later went back to the trans light a ( gear with circle around it ). I checked the ef3 30 amp that I just changed and it again had blown. I NEED SOME HELP GUYS , what selenoid needs replacement and will this take the car out of limp mode.
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  #49  
Old 07-28-2014, 06:58 PM
josemedeiros007 josemedeiros007 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000323bmw View Post
What's up guys, I'm new to this forum but currently own a 2000 323i four door with 151,000 on it and I'm looking for a little help with regards to this thread. I have the engine light, dsc light, abs, and trans light on. The car has reverse and can switch into gear just seems very sluggish. The engine code is p1145 referring to some selenoid loses circuit? ( that isn't the exact meaning. ) but I have checked the ef3 30 amp fuse and it has bad. I changed the fuse of ef3 started the car and P gear came up and a few seconds later went back to the trans light a ( gear with circle around it ). I checked the ef3 30 amp that I just changed and it again had blown. I NEED SOME HELP GUYS , what selenoid needs replacement and will this take the car out of limp mode.
This a BMW E39 thread, but my google search comes up with another thread where the solenoid that is the throwing a P1145 code is under the drivers seat, and it is part of the fuel system. The DME relay fuse was bad and was replaced, and it resolved his engine code issue, I am not sure if this applies to a BMW 323.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=585200
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  #50  
Old 08-10-2014, 12:09 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For those troubleshooting the horn, this thread has information about relays and fuses related to that component ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2002 E39 Horns not working
Quote:
Originally Posted by bocarunner View Post
I have a very challenging problem...

The horns on my 525i are not working. I applied voltage directly to both horns and they worked fine. I also replaced the horn relay under the driver's side dash. I replaced a bad 5A fuse in the glovebox for F38. The fuse in F3 was fine.

After doing all of this the horns still did not work.

I then used a voltmeter to check out F3 and F38. F3 had voltage but F38 did not.

Anyone know why there would be no voltage to F38? Is F38 even used for the horns? I looked at the e39 horn wiring diagram and F38 is not even referenced.

Attachment 457588
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
Pull the relay. Then check voltages and grounds on the plug as follows:

pin #4 for 85 on relay -> grounded when horn pad pushed, open circuit when horn pad released
Pin #6 for 86 on relay -> B+ from F38 with ignition switch
pin #3 for 30 on relay -> B+ from F3 (not sure if this circuit is switched by ignition)
pins #2 & #5 for the 87s on relay -> short pin #3 to pin #2 for one horn, then pin #3 to pin #5 for other horn.

With those results the faulty circuit (or relay) will be identified.

EDIT: added image from RealOEM in case terminal identifiers on relay or plug are not legible.
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