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Old 07-03-2020, 03:03 PM
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Coolant replacment

I ordered a coolant flange, it came in today. I went to go take the old one out, but it won't come out of the hose. Instead, coolant spills everywhere out of the hose (reservoir on low no low coolant light) and spills all on my garage floor . Is there a way to remove the old coolant flange? And should I just drain and refill the coolant system? It's all ready at low. 50/50 basically means add a gallon of coolant and a gallon of distilled water, correct? Can I still start the car?

Last edited by moosaud1998; 07-03-2020 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 07-03-2020, 03:41 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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You are going to lose some coolant. You might be able to use a coolant hose clamp like these. Whenís the last time the coolant has been drained and flushed? Might be a great time for that. 50/50 is distilled with coolant yes but make sure you are not mixing distilled water with an already pre 50/50 coolant mix. https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...xoCZY0QAvD_BwE


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Old 07-03-2020, 03:50 PM
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[QUOTE=BabyUnicornTaco;13383829]You are going to lose some coolant. You might be able to use a coolant hose clamp like these. Whenís the last time the coolant has been drained and flushed? Might be a great time for that. 50/50 is distilled with coolant yes but make sure you are not mixing distilled water with an already pre 50/50 coolant mix. https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...xoCZY0QAvD_BwE

Coolant was changed in 2018 when the car had 64k miles. I am at 71k miles right now
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:03 PM
littleredcar littleredcar is offline
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I would pre-mix the new coolant 50:50 with distilled water before adding it to your vehicle. Sometimes it's hard to add enough mix and you don't want to add pure coolant and then not have roorm to add the same amount of distilled water.
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:05 PM
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I would pre-mix the new coolant 50:50 with distilled water before adding it to your vehicle. Sometimes it's hard to add enough mix and you don't want to add pure coolant and then not have roorm to add the same amount of distilled water.
I'll probably put a cup of coolant in then a cup of water in until the thing doesn't get to full.
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:08 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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I'll probably put a cup of coolant in then a cup of water in until the thing doesn't get to full.


I premix and then pour. Only true way to be 50/50.


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Old 07-03-2020, 04:09 PM
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I premix and then pour. Only true way to be 50/50.


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So a cup of coolant and a cup of water in a bottle and just pour it in? Should be fine
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:14 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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So a cup of coolant and a cup of water in a bottle and just pour it in? Should be fine


Make sure itís distilled water mixed. But yes. I donít have your BMW and havenít replaced that flange, Iím just familiar with clamping hoses and coolant drains/flushes. When I do a full drain and flush I drain the system, then fill with distilled water, run again, then drain and fill with 50/50 and then bleed the system. With any coolant add you will want to bleed your system.


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Old 07-03-2020, 04:17 PM
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Make sure itís distilled water mixed. But yes. I donít have your BMW and havenít replaced that flange, Iím just familiar with clamping hoses and coolant drains/flushes. When I do a full drain and flush I drain the system, then fill with distilled water, run again, then drain and fill with 50/50 and then bleed the system. With any coolant add you will want to bleed your system.


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If I'm just topping fluid off, do I still need to bleed the system?
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:20 PM
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If I'm just topping fluid off, do I still need to bleed the system?


Itís best practice. Prevents air pockets in your system. Itís easy. The process is in Newtis.info. If you add coolant and you have an air pocket you may have an incorrect and low fill level.


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Old 07-03-2020, 04:59 PM
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Whatever you do, only use BMW coolant. It has the most neutral pH of anything around. Most other coolants have a higher pH that has been linked to these plastic parts failing.

Also, be aware that you'll never fully empty the system, so if you flush with distilled water, you might want to compensate for that when you fill with coolant. There are some pretty inexpensive coolant refractometers now that seem to work OK for verifying what you have in the system.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:39 AM
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How often are you guys changing the coolant? Does BMW recommend every 2 years/30k miles or 4 years? It's been 7k-8k miles and 2 years since my last coolant change.

Last edited by moosaud1998; 07-04-2020 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:55 AM
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2-3 years is my practice. Use BMW, Pentosin or a G48 coolant, mix w distilled. Yes purge the system: electronically on 6 cyl variants; on the N62 you should have bleed valves.

If I'm doing something that requires a drain (like a radiator or coolant pump), I may change it earlier. Coolant is like oil in one respect: fluid is cheap, parts and labor are expensive. Never hurts to do it earlier since you're in there anyway.

BMW may argue lifetime, but that's never good practice.

"It's been 7k-8k miles and 2 years"

With that few miles, I'd be comfortable with another 2 years.
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:06 AM
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2-3 years is my practice. Use BMW, Pentosin or a G48 coolant, mix w distilled. Yes purge the system: electronically on 6 cyl variants; on the N62 you should have bleed valves.

If I'm doing something that requires a drain (like a radiator or coolant pump), I may change it earlier. Coolant is like oil in one respect: fluid is cheap, parts and labor are expensive. Never hurts to do it earlier since you're in there anyway.

BMW may argue lifetime, but that's never good practice.

"It's been 7k-8k miles and 2 years"

With that few miles, I'd be comfortable with another 2 years.

Yeah, the coolant doesn't seem to be dirty. I lost some coolant while doing the coolant flange so I was double minded on if I should just go ahead and do a flush/drain or just top it up and call it a day
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:25 AM
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Yeah, the coolant doesn't seem to be dirty. I lost some coolant while doing the coolant flange so I was double minded on if I should just go ahead and do a flush/drain or just top it up and call it a day

Nah, keep it two more years. Measure boiling and freezing point though.


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Old 07-04-2020, 09:28 AM
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Nah, keep it two more years. Measure boiling and freezing point though.


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Alright, sounds good. Appreciate your help man.
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:32 AM
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Yup, trans fluid, both differential fluids, coolant and transfer case were done JUL 8th 2018 at 64k miles (at 71k miles right now). I should be good on the coolant for the next two years and the rest of the things I'll get changed at 121k miles.
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:52 AM
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FYI I change transfer case every 20k, no exceptions. Diffs Iíll take 25-30k miles. I donít recommend more than 25k on the transfer case (using only OE/OEM fluid in the power divider) if error-free longevity is the ultimate goal.


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Old 07-04-2020, 01:36 PM
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FYI I change transfer case every 20k, no exceptions. Diffs Iíll take 25-30k miles. I donít recommend more than 25k on the transfer case (using only OE/OEM fluid in the power divider) if error-free longevity is the ultimate goal.


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I think you are overdoing it on TC. IMO waste of good fluid. On diffs. you are definiately overdoing it as those diff's are not hard on fluid.
Next time you do it send sample to WIX, Blackstone etc. and see what is happening with fluid. It would be good to post here so we can see results.
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:07 PM
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I think you are overdoing it on TC. IMO waste of good fluid. On diffs. you are definiately overdoing it as those diff's are not hard on fluid.
Next time you do it send sample to WIX, Blackstone etc. and see what is happening with fluid. It would be good to post here so we can see results.
That's what i was thinking.
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:28 PM
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Coolant replacment

Maybe maybe not, but I know my regimen has never resulted in a single hard part failure on anything in a million combined miles, or a single CEL on any BMW Iíve ever owned over two hundred thousand miles. Plenty of BMWs out there requiring transfer cases, differentials and actuators by 150k, 200k or less, from anecdotal observation on these forums and personal experience.

The front diff gets more heat that the rear and the fluid almost always comes out blacker when I change the fluids for people. None of them have filtered fluid, and the TC sheds clutch pack material making the fluid abrasive, as does a LS equipped rear diff. Weíve gone over 500k miles on vehicles without even so much as bearing whine, heck even 450k miles on an original clutch. My personal goal is to get the CCV and transfer case actuator to at least 300k; my fuel trims still read 0.0 at my mileage with the original rocker cover gasket, so my schedule definitely works for me.

I donít know about the ZF autos, but I do have an internal GM memo for the 6L-series transmissions advising 30k mile fluid changes on those, so thatís also what I do.

The black stone idea for the TC is a great idea, I might just do that the next time I do the fluid in ~10k miles and post results for the good of the masses. A few certified BMW techs (including my neighbor whose been at it since the 2002 was fresh) advise the 20k TC fluid interval, which is why I promote that to my customers as well.

Iím also not trying to start a fluid argument (those always seem to flow quite easily); I only even wandered over into these parts after my latest restification project took me back into the 3 series area of the forum, but there is certainly some great information to carry over to my N52 E83.




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Old 07-04-2020, 06:17 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Coolant replacment

A lot of BMW owners on here are 2nd, 3rd, or even 4th owners. Some try to make up for lost time. I would rather error on the side of premature maintenance. For me itís 5,000 miles on oil changes. 30,000 on transmission fluid. 60,000 on the pan. 30,000-60,000 on differentials, and 30,000-60,000 on the TC.


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Old 07-05-2020, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Maybe maybe not, but I know my regimen has never resulted in a single hard part failure on anything in a million combined miles, or a single CEL on any BMW Iíve ever owned over two hundred thousand miles. Plenty of BMWs out there requiring transfer cases, differentials and actuators by 150k, 200k or less, from anecdotal observation on these forums and personal experience.

The front diff gets more heat that the rear and the fluid almost always comes out blacker when I change the fluids for people. None of them have filtered fluid, and the TC sheds clutch pack material making the fluid abrasive, as does a LS equipped rear diff. Weíve gone over 500k miles on vehicles without even so much as bearing whine, heck even 450k miles on an original clutch. My personal goal is to get the CCV and transfer case actuator to at least 300k; my fuel trims still read 0.0 at my mileage with the original rocker cover gasket, so my schedule definitely works for me.

I donít know about the ZF autos, but I do have an internal GM memo for the 6L-series transmissions advising 30k mile fluid changes on those, so thatís also what I do.

The black stone idea for the TC is a great idea, I might just do that the next time I do the fluid in ~10k miles and post results for the good of the masses. A few certified BMW techs (including my neighbor whose been at it since the 2002 was fresh) advise the 20k TC fluid interval, which is why I promote that to my customers as well.

Iím also not trying to start a fluid argument (those always seem to flow quite easily); I only even wandered over into these parts after my latest restification project took me back into the 3 series area of the forum, but there is certainly some great information to carry over to my N52 E83.




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Always felt that doing fluid changes more often is better than less. Certainly, if you're DIY, it's not an economic pain, either. The TC, though --while more often is always better, the fluid is expensive (BMW only), and at least on my 328 XiT, is a real PITA to reach. I'd opt for 50K, compared to BMW's 100K, but that's just me.
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Old 07-05-2020, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Maybe maybe not, but I know my regimen has never resulted in a single hard part failure on anything in a million combined miles, or a single CEL on any BMW Iíve ever owned over two hundred thousand miles. Plenty of BMWs out there requiring transfer cases, differentials and actuators by 150k, 200k or less, from anecdotal observation on these forums and personal experience.

The front diff gets more heat that the rear and the fluid almost always comes out blacker when I change the fluids for people. None of them have filtered fluid, and the TC sheds clutch pack material making the fluid abrasive, as does a LS equipped rear diff. Weíve gone over 500k miles on vehicles without even so much as bearing whine, heck even 450k miles on an original clutch. My personal goal is to get the CCV and transfer case actuator to at least 300k; my fuel trims still read 0.0 at my mileage with the original rocker cover gasket, so my schedule definitely works for me.

I donít know about the ZF autos, but I do have an internal GM memo for the 6L-series transmissions advising 30k mile fluid changes on those, so thatís also what I do.

The black stone idea for the TC is a great idea, I might just do that the next time I do the fluid in ~10k miles and post results for the good of the masses. A few certified BMW techs (including my neighbor whose been at it since the 2002 was fresh) advise the 20k TC fluid interval, which is why I promote that to my customers as well.

Iím also not trying to start a fluid argument (those always seem to flow quite easily); I only even wandered over into these parts after my latest restification project took me back into the 3 series area of the forum, but there is certainly some great information to carry over to my N52 E83.




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Sure, I am just saying that fluid doesnít start to oxidized until is loses TBN. Until then it is doing what it supposed to do. I really wanna see that analysis of TC fluid if you do it. Do TAN too analysis so we see oxidation rate.


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Old 07-05-2020, 04:16 PM
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Coolant replacment

Iím not concerned so much with lubricity as I am with 1) abrasive clutch material contamination 2) degradation of the top secret additive pack 3) the large number of x drive issues, transfer case failures, and stripped actuators resulting from extended OCI on the unit, because of circulating liquid abrasion.

The BMW fluid is a fraction of a cent per mile at 20k mile OCI; Iíve switched to S-Tec for half the price.

BMW says the transmission fluid is lifetime fill; GM (who makes the 6 speeds) has an internal recommendation of 30k mile changes to prevent warranty claims.

Hopefully Iíll remember the to get a fluid analysis on the 20k mile S tec the next time I do it, Iím interested.


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Last edited by dukedkt442; 07-06-2020 at 04:18 AM. Reason: Clarification
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