2008-2010 535I How to get to rear wastegate DIY - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-16-2015, 02:05 PM
bleuemist60 bleuemist60 is offline
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2008-2010 535I How to get to rear wastegate DIY

So I recently solved a reduced engine power light by fixing my rear waste gate. Unfortunately I was so eager and frustrated I put everything back together before I could take pictures. So I will take pictures of the tool I made and I will write a detailed explanation of how I got to it and fixed my waste gate rattle. I have a 2008 535i, NOT a 335i or a 135i. As you may have noticed there are no DIYs on fixing a 535i rear waste gate. The main reason... its a bitch to get to.
Mr 5 explains wastegate rattle and how to fix it here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176269

But getting to it on the 535i is impossible from the engine bay, you have to get under the car.
I used some 12000 lbs rhino ramps to get under my car. They cost me $43 from Walmart.
If you are using ramps in your garage, make sure that the car will look like it will make it on the ramp. My 535i has the sport package, it was barely able to clear the ramp. Also put a small mat, mine were 5ftx3ft under each ramp.. now your ramps won't slide when pulling on the them.
PULL ON THE RAMPS SLOW. TAKE TIME AND SAVE MONEY AND YOUR CAR!
I got out several times when pulling the car onto the ramp to make sure it was lined up. BE SAFE.

So before you start your project of fixing the rear waste gate rattle, go to BMW and get 5 replacement bolts for the reinforcement plate under the car. Once you take the bolts out you need to replace them. Some people reuse them. I bought a BMW because they are safe. I'm sure BMW spent a lot of time and money into what bolts need to be used where and why. It cost me $20 for 5 bolts, it's worth it for my peace of mind.

So starting...Don't start if you just drove the car, I worked on mine after i let it cool down over night. You will burn your hand like hell if you touch the down pipes when they are hot.

Step 1: Making the tool.
Take a 10mm wrench, cut it so that you the head and the shaft are equal to about 2-3 inches long. You the side with the OPEN head, as you wouldn't be able to use the closed side.
Do the same with a 4mm wrench but make the length 1.5-2 inches.
Drill a hole close to the side you cut, do this for both.
Take a skinny but strong rod, i used a mid section of a fishing pole. About 8-10 inches long. it was a smaller rod good for trout fishing. Don't use a big catfish rod as it wont fit where you need it to. The rod has to have a small diameter. you want something strong that wont bend easily but bends, fiberglass worked great but you can make do with a metal rod. How you connect the wrench to the rod is up to you. The goal is to attach each wrench to either side of the rod and hinge them to the rod. It has to be strong tho, or it will come apart when using it and then you'll have to redo it.
I wrapped Electrical tape around each end after i put it together, so once i moved the wrench to either side it would stay there but still be able to move the way i wanted it to.

I will post pictures of the tool I made, as i still have it and if you didn't understand my description or instructions you can look at the picture. I will do it once I get home.

Step 2. Removing panels. (Also a good time to clean the inside of them as well!)
Tools needed. 14mm socket, 10mm socket, 8mm socket, phillips screw driver.
Use the phillips screw driver to remove the first panel as well as the 14mm socket.
Looking under the car, remove the 2 14mm bolts, then remove the phillips screws on the left and right side of the panel. Slide the front panel back, and set it a side. NOTE: THE PHILLIPS SCREWS DO NOT GET REMOVED FROM THE PANEL, THEY ARE HELD IN THERE.
Set the 14mm bolts aside.
The second panel is held on by many 8mm bolts and one 10mm washer type nut. The panel is long, for bigger guys either squeeze back or try to get the 8mm bolts out by sliding under the side of the car. I used ramps, there wasn't much room.
NOTE, THERE ARE DIFFERENT SIZE HEADS ON THE BOLTS, SOME WIDER. NOTE THE LOCATION FOR REASSEMBLY.
The slide the second panel to the front of the car, it will the drop out of place. Place the panel aside.

Step 3. Remove the reinforcement plate.
Need a 16mm socket.
This is where i stopped the first time i attempted to fix the rear waste gate. It was late at night and I didn't know i would be needing to replace these 5 bolts.
The reinforcement plate is non there structurally, you can remove it when the car is on ramps and you don't need to worry about the car falling apart.
Remove the 5 bolts in a star pattern. slide the place towards the back of the car and it drops down. Set it aside.

Step 4.
Time to read Mr 5s fix on the waste gate so you know what to do when you see the actuator rod.
I slide under the car head first so my head was facing the trunk. You will see the down pipes, you can remove them, or upgrade them, but i didn't want to do that, when the actuator rod was so close. So this is when i made my tool. You guys already have it handy if you followed the steps in order.
Lighting is key, its a big help too see what you are doing under the car. The reason we needed to make the tool is that the down pipes prevent you to be able to maneuver around a ratchet or a normal wrench. You can't use a socket or one of the twist handle ratchets because you are loosening a nut on a rod, you cant get it on there. So my solution was i needed to get the wrench in there but i had no way of getting my hand in there far enough to get to the nut nor a way of loosening it or tightening it. So you put your tool on the locking nut. This part take patience! through a series of trial and error i found that putting the tool on the nut and pulling downwards was easier than pushing upwards. Once you break the nut loose (mine seemed like it was on there tight) it moves easily and you can just spin it with the rod. back it out a few turns i did 5.
Now flip the wrench over to the other side. You will see a little grove on the actuator rod, you want to righten the rod, so turn it the opposite way of the way you undid the nut. Most recommend 2-2.5 turns. I did 3 since my rattle was more severe.
Again, i found that pulling down was easier than pushing up. It will take some time, be careful, don't get irritated like i did and call the thing a mother trucker a hundred times.
Once tighened, tighten the locking nut. Then you are done.

Before you start putting everything back, get in the car, start it and make sure the rattle went away. If not, tighten the actuator rod a little more.

Step 5. Reinstall the reinforcement plate. I followed what pelican parts said and replaced the bolts with new ones. Tighten in a star pattern to 48 ft lbs.

Step 6. Reinstall the back panel. Then the front. Mine had tons of dirt and grime on the inner side, I cleaned it all off.
Reinstall the front panel. Just so you know, the front panel slides under the front bumper, there is a hole in it where the bottom of the intercooler fits in.
Tighten all the nuts and phillips screws. Don't forget the 14mm bolts you took out.
After the panels are reinstalled, your job is done!

You will notice better gas milage, no lag, no reduced engine power light when accelerating hard at low rpms and higher boost at low rpm.

Keep in mind, if you get an engine code for too high of boost, then you over tighten the waste gate and the turbo can't release boost pressure.

I will post pics of the tool i made later!
Sorry I forgot to take pics before hand.
Feel free to ask questions!
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2015, 03:36 PM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Thanks -- great writeup for a tough problem.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2015, 05:03 PM
impac4000 impac4000 is offline
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Thanks for that
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  #4  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:13 PM
churious churious is offline
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Can you post the tool?
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2017, 11:57 AM
nickd009 nickd009 is offline
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Has any one has success with doing this ?
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2017, 08:49 AM
keyshore94 keyshore94 is offline
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Interested in this as well as I've been getting the boost error for a while now, any chance for getting a pic of the tool you made?


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  #7  
Old 04-30-2018, 12:36 PM
bleuemist60 bleuemist60 is offline
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Hey guys,

Haven't been on in a while, I got a new computer and forgot I joined this forum as well. I've been on n54tech for the most part. Anyways, I'm not sure If I have the tool sitting around anymore, however I can draw up a quick sketch of it in autocad and post a pic of that.
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2018, 10:28 PM
DBG07 DBG07 is offline
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That would be awesome, if you can draw a picture of the tool you made. I tried the other day, and I'm afraid I might have stripped the nut....couldn't get it loose. Thanks man in advance man!
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2018, 06:52 AM
TheObjectivist TheObjectivist is offline
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What are the thoughts on adding washers behind the boost actuators?

e.g - instead of adjusting the rods, simply add a few stacked washers (cut like a C) to the actuator mounting points.

I recall reading about it on another forum and it's supposed to be easy to slip them in.
This pulls the actuator and rod back and you wont have to worry about making a tool or trying to reach the nut
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2019, 10:38 AM
kd7iwp kd7iwp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleuemist60 View Post
I can draw up a quick sketch of it in autocad and post a pic of that.
Would be thrilled if you could post a drawing of the tool. Even if you just hand draw something. I unfortunately cannot picture in my mind how the wrenches are arranged on the rod.
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  #11  
Old 05-25-2019, 03:57 PM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Researching how to tighten the rear wastegate actuator rod on my 2008 535i - found this thread. I guess the tool photos or sketches have never arrived, we all have to use our imagination to figure out how to get to that actuator sucker.
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2019, 11:12 AM
Reefin' Dude Reefin' Dude is offline
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I just did this over the weekend. worked like a charm. i had to do it twice since i remembered wrongly which way to turn the rod.

i wanted to post a picture of the tool i made for this. i think it is probably pretty close to what the OP did, but since there was never a pic posted, we can only guess.

i have really long fingers, so the tool was only used to break loose the 10mm locking nut. i was able to reach the rod to put the 4mm wrench on it and turn it with my fingers. it was not easy, but it was doable by me, so i did not go about creating a tool out of the 4mm wrench. i did use a shortened 4mm wrench described by the OP. the wrenches i bought were to hard to drill a hole through them, so i had to go this route.

i would not go with a shorter flathead screwdriver. this was about right. it took more force than i would have though to break the locking nut loose, but this tool made it relatively easy. once on the nut, even tapping it with a hammer can be done to break it loose.

the screwdriver is seated in one of the notches in the handle of the 10mm wrench. it is then wrapped decently with electrical tape to keep it from sliding out.

G~
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2019, 11:34 AM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Thank you for your post, buddy! Glad to hear it worked out for you. Encourages me to go the same route (as soon as that 4mm wrench arrives from ebay). Will report here the outcome of the challenge with my 535i.
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2019, 03:21 PM
SpiderBy SpiderBy is offline
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Since I promised to follow up, I've managed to adjust the rear wastegate rod for 3 turns on my 2008 535i RWD but I should say it was a PITA. I don't know how you guys are able to do that from under the car. I managed to break loose the 10mm nut from below but I could not rotate the rod with the 4mm wrench using a similar "hand-made" tool Reefin' Dude has a picture above. By the way, I got this set from ebay - Craftsman Metric Midget Wrench Set part no. 42339, it has those handy 4mm and 4.5mm wrenches but I used 4mm only. So I decided to try getting to the rod from above and I managed to get there by removing vacuum actuators and a metal bracket that is bolted to the cylinder block right below the valve cover.

It is the bracket with the vacuum lines which go to the actuators, held by 4 inverted torx bolts, a couple of them are hard to reach since you don't see them but it is still possible to remove/install them by touch. See the attached picture of that bracket, already separated from the block.

Once I removed the bracket I managed to get access to the 4mm wrench from above by using that "hand-made" tool and hold it in place, then I was able to push the wrench by another hand.
This adjustment procedure helped me to minimize a wastegate rattle and I'm not getting a dreaded 30FF fault code and engine limp mode anymore.
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2019, 09:32 AM
Akazantt Akazantt is offline
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I'm am about to give your method a go man as I see it being the easiest although it's all a bitch to do but before even trying to attempt to find a DYI on these turbos for this car because there's none this is how I would've tried I will report back after the fact and let you guys know which one works best for me I'm relatively experienced to the these cars and engines and what ways work best without removing necessary things
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2019, 08:41 AM
releiniew releiniew is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleuemist60 View Post
So I recently solved a reduced engine power light by fixing my rear waste gate. Unfortunately I was so eager and frustrated I put everything back together before I could take pictures. So I will take pictures of the tool I made and I will write a detailed explanation of how I got to it and fixed my waste gate rattle. I have a 2008 535i, NOT a 335i or a 135i. As you may have noticed there are no DIYs on fixing a 535i rear waste gate. The main reason... its a bitch to get to.
Mr 5 explains wastegate rattle and how to fix it here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176269

But getting to it on the 535i is impossible from the engine bay, you have to get under the car.
I used some 12000 lbs rhino ramps to get under my car. They cost me $43 from Walmart. Now all Walmart employees can make use of Walmartone portal to get all the better.
If you are using ramps in your garage, make sure that the car will look like it will make it on the ramp. My 535i has the sport package, it was barely able to clear the ramp. Also put a small mat, mine were 5ftx3ft under each ramp.. now your ramps won't slide when pulling on the them.
PULL ON THE RAMPS SLOW. TAKE TIME AND SAVE MONEY AND YOUR CAR!
I got out several times when pulling the car onto the ramp to make sure it was lined up. BE SAFE.

So before you start your project of fixing the rear waste gate rattle, go to BMW and get 5 replacement bolts for the reinforcement plate under the car. Once you take the bolts out you need to replace them. Some people reuse them. I bought a BMW because they are safe. I'm sure BMW spent a lot of time and money into what bolts need to be used where and why. It cost me $20 for 5 bolts, it's worth it for my peace of mind.

So starting...Don't start if you just drove the car, I worked on mine after i let it cool down over night. You will burn your hand like hell if you touch the down pipes when they are hot.

Step 1: Making the tool.
Take a 10mm wrench, cut it so that you the head and the shaft are equal to about 2-3 inches long. You the side with the OPEN head, as you wouldn't be able to use the closed side.
Do the same with a 4mm wrench but make the length 1.5-2 inches.
Drill a hole close to the side you cut, do this for both.
Take a skinny but strong rod, i used a mid section of a fishing pole. About 8-10 inches long. it was a smaller rod good for trout fishing. Don't use a big catfish rod as it wont fit where you need it to. The rod has to have a small diameter. you want something strong that wont bend easily but bends, fiberglass worked great but you can make do with a metal rod. How you connect the wrench to the rod is up to you. The goal is to attach each wrench to either side of the rod and hinge them to the rod. It has to be strong tho, or it will come apart when using it and then you'll have to redo it.
I wrapped Electrical tape around each end after i put it together, so once i moved the wrench to either side it would stay there but still be able to move the way i wanted it to.

I will post pictures of the tool I made, as i still have it and if you didn't understand my description or instructions you can look at the picture. I will do it once I get home.

Step 2. Removing panels. (Also a good time to clean the inside of them as well!)
Tools needed. 14mm socket, 10mm socket, 8mm socket, phillips screw driver.
Use the phillips screw driver to remove the first panel as well as the 14mm socket.
Looking under the car, remove the 2 14mm bolts, then remove the phillips screws on the left and right side of the panel. Slide the front panel back, and set it a side. NOTE: THE PHILLIPS SCREWS DO NOT GET REMOVED FROM THE PANEL, THEY ARE HELD IN THERE.
Set the 14mm bolts aside.
The second panel is held on by many 8mm bolts and one 10mm washer type nut. The panel is long, for bigger guys either squeeze back or try to get the 8mm bolts out by sliding under the side of the car. I used ramps, there wasn't much room.
NOTE, THERE ARE DIFFERENT SIZE HEADS ON THE BOLTS, SOME WIDER. NOTE THE LOCATION FOR REASSEMBLY.
The slide the second panel to the front of the car, it will the drop out of place. Place the panel aside.

Step 3. Remove the reinforcement plate.
Need a 16mm socket.
This is where i stopped the first time i attempted to fix the rear waste gate. It was late at night and I didn't know i would be needing to replace these 5 bolts.
The reinforcement plate is non there structurally, you can remove it when the car is on ramps and you don't need to worry about the car falling apart.
Remove the 5 bolts in a star pattern. slide the place towards the back of the car and it drops down. Set it aside.

Step 4.
Time to read Mr 5s fix on the waste gate so you know what to do when you see the actuator rod.
I slide under the car head first so my head was facing the trunk. You will see the down pipes, you can remove them, or upgrade them, but i didn't want to do that, when the actuator rod was so close. So this is when i made my tool. You guys already have it handy if you followed the steps in order.
Lighting is key, its a big help too see what you are doing under the car. The reason we needed to make the tool is that the down pipes prevent you to be able to maneuver around a ratchet or a normal wrench. You can't use a socket or one of the twist handle ratchets because you are loosening a nut on a rod, you cant get it on there. So my solution was i needed to get the wrench in there but i had no way of getting my hand in there far enough to get to the nut nor a way of loosening it or tightening it. So you put your tool on the locking nut. This part take patience! through a series of trial and error i found that putting the tool on the nut and pulling downwards was easier than pushing upwards. Once you break the nut loose (mine seemed like it was on there tight) it moves easily and you can just spin it with the rod. back it out a few turns i did 5.
Now flip the wrench over to the other side. You will see a little grove on the actuator rod, you want to righten the rod, so turn it the opposite way of the way you undid the nut. Most recommend 2-2.5 turns. I did 3 since my rattle was more severe.
Again, i found that pulling down was easier than pushing up. It will take some time, be careful, don't get irritated like i did and call the thing a mother trucker a hundred times.
Once tighened, tighten the locking nut. Then you are done.

Before you start putting everything back, get in the car, start it and make sure the rattle went away. If not, tighten the actuator rod a little more.

Step 5. Reinstall the reinforcement plate. I followed what pelican parts said and replaced the bolts with new ones. Tighten in a star pattern to 48 ft lbs.

Step 6. Reinstall the back panel. Then the front. Mine had tons of dirt and grime on the inner side, I cleaned it all off.
Reinstall the front panel. Just so you know, the front panel slides under the front bumper, there is a hole in it where the bottom of the intercooler fits in.
Tighten all the nuts and phillips screws. Don't forget the 14mm bolts you took out.
After the panels are reinstalled, your job is done!

You will notice better gas milage, no lag, no reduced engine power light when accelerating hard at low rpms and higher boost at low rpm.

Keep in mind, if you get an engine code for too high of boost, then you over tighten the waste gate and the turbo can't release boost pressure.

I will post pics of the tool i made later!
Sorry I forgot to take pics before hand.
Feel free to ask questions!
I performed this very same adjustment on my former GTI. Tightening up the wastegate a little actually gave a better seal and resulted in about one more pound of boost at peak that seemed to have been lost with time.

I suspect the stock actuator mechanisms get tired or loose over time and don't seal as tightly. This results in a tired engine feeling as the months go by. People begin to suspect they have a small boost leak, or some other problem and can't help noticing that the engine doesn't feel as responsive as it first did.

Many who performed this tweak reported the engine feeling just like it did when it was first flashed....ie the tired feeling was gone.

However....this mod is considered risky as you are messing with mechanical turbo settings. Wisdom should be your guide here. I only turned the nut one and a half revolutions to regain one pound of boost. Others dialed in six revolutions and ran ridiculous peak psi that was way beyond safe. _sl_

Last edited by releiniew; 09-11-2019 at 08:42 AM. Reason: To make it better
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2019, 11:34 AM
kd7iwp kd7iwp is offline
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Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 325i
Having recently removed my turbos to install a wastegate rattle kit and reinstall them, I have no clue how anyone has been able to do this successfully, and props to those who have! The front actuator arm must be completely impossible to get to (hence why I hear people put spacers under the actuator bolts instead). The rear one you can sort of see from under the car at certain angles, but wow, that's tough. Taking the downpipes off was quite a bit easier than I thought it would be (I don't have much rust on the exhaust) and doing so makes it easy to adjust. Plus, you would have the added benefit of seeing the wastegate flapper to ensure that it is indeed closed at the 6"Hg mark.
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