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E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 01-07-2020, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deroy View Post
I think it all works like this:



At idle, vacuum at the air intake is highest, also sucking air out of the cranckcase too. (And oil past your valve stems seals.) The PCV valve is sucked CLOSED, preventing from developing too much vacuum in the cranckcase. With a ripped valve, air from the outside world is sucked in, entering the intake unmetered, throwing that famous lean code. At full throttle, blow-by makes it to the cranckcase, increasing pressure there, pushing the PCV valve open, releasing toxic gasses into the intake again, rather than to the outside world. This is an emissions control system. The spring tension in the PCV valve determines the crossover point between these two extremes.



So, VCG oil leakage, but also oil spray out of the little PCV valve nozzle when the valve is ripped, are prone to happen at full throttle, NOT at idle.



When my VCGs were leaking, I could produce a nice blue could of burnt oil by flooring it on the highway, pushing oil drops out through the leaking valve cover gaskets.


Interesting. My question though is this. I hope I phrase it correctly. I have replaced CCV diaphragms a few times in the past. I have never felt one stuck like a sticker. They all were easily lifted without resistance. Could the CCV diaphram been sucked closed and stuck closed without enough pressure to open it because it was really stuck in there even at full throttle? What would the effects be if the diaphram did not open when it was supposed to and returned to idle? It sounds like it would result in increased pressure. I wonder if there is something about that diaphram that is related. Maybe Iím reaching for an idea. Maybe I need to inspect again.


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  #27  
Old 01-07-2020, 09:30 AM
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I havenít had a chance to check my intake hoses/tubes yet either. Maybe my idle is just too low. At times it will drop just below 500 rpms for a couple seconds with the ac and heat off.


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Old 01-07-2020, 09:32 AM
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Gasser ECU raise engine power equivalent to 200 RPM to maintain speed under varying alternator electric system load.

My normal idle RPM is 700.
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Old 01-07-2020, 09:39 AM
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Gasser ECU raise engine power equivalent to 200 RPM to maintain speed under varying alternator electric system load.

My normal idle RPM is 700.


Thatís what has me thinking it could be a intake leak. Dropping to 480 seems way to low when coming to a stop or turning AC/heat off. Vibration seems to go away just above 600 or so, maybe 650. An idle of 700 would be great for the vibration elimination.


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Old 01-07-2020, 09:52 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
I havenít had a chance to check my intake hoses/tubes yet either. Maybe my idle is just too low. At times it will drop just below 500 rpms for a couple seconds with the ac and heat off.


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Mine does that too. With all accessories off, idle is smooth and constant just over 500 rpm. With 8 cylinders that is still smooth.

Our regular gas is 95ron.

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Old 01-07-2020, 10:13 AM
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My vibration is strongest at this idle speed. Dissipates with very little increase or decrease. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-08-2020, 06:39 AM
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I paid 1650 for new fr control arms and engine mounts & strut tensioner...I do have the 3.5 though.
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  #33  
Old 01-08-2020, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by deroy View Post
Mine does that too. With all accessories off, idle is smooth and constant just over 500 rpm. With 8 cylinders that is still smooth.

Our regular gas is 95ron.

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The engine idle is smooth even at 500rpms when listening outside the X5. I just feel it through the steering wheel. I may just have to wait until it becomes more significant. I couldnít find a crack in my intake boot. You would think the X5 was new when listening outside with the hood up. Maybe Iíll run a bottle of Techron to see if the injectors or fuel line is an issue. Open to suggestions. Maybe Iím nuts.
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  #34  
Old 01-09-2020, 12:14 PM
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Always check the vacuum system in German cars, first, in my opinion. I just scanned this thread, so sorry if this was mentioned, but check the vacuum system to the active mounts if you can.
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  #35  
Old 01-09-2020, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by robinasu View Post
Always check the vacuum system in German cars, first, in my opinion. I just scanned this thread, so sorry if this was mentioned, but check the vacuum system to the active mounts if you can.


At this point my symptoms are too minor to start replacing items. Iíll have to wait until a symptom gets more significant. I donít want to become the guy that starts throwing repairs at an older BMW. Iíll focus on my broken AC clutch pulley for now and Iíll report back if I find a definitive issue with my engine mounts.


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  #36  
Old 01-09-2020, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/GJPYAPq

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/Q0yejFj

Seeing both of these but wondering if there is a shortcut.


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I did this on my E60 at ~90k mi but looks like there is more stuff to do on the X5.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/GZMRPGG

I had vibration in neutral and when driving at around 2000rpm. Idle was smooth.
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
This symptom may still point toward engine mounts but I have another symptom. When parked and I feel the vibration at idle, the vibration intensifies slightly if I turn the steering wheel a little left or right. I assume this is because I am increasing the engine load slightly into the range that makes the vibration more noticeable. Any other thoughts? Drove the car on the highway today and it drives great. Still sound like engine mounts or could it be differential or power steering related?


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I would connect INPA or ISTA and check the engine smoothness "Laufunruhewerte". There you will see if the issue affects all cylinders evenly or there is an outlier.

// Not sure if it applies here but on the 6cyl an air leak can cause one cylinder running rough if the vacuum leak is near that cyl.
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  #38  
Old 01-11-2020, 09:35 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

I wondered; is a swollen bladder at the base of a motor mount a sign of (internal) failure?

Generic pic of what I mean from the web below.



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  #39  
Old 01-11-2020, 01:57 PM
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Vacuum gauge

Might want to throw a vacuum gauge on there or find a friend with a fog system to check for vacuum Leaks.
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  #40  
Old 01-11-2020, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by deroy View Post
I wondered; is a swollen bladder at the base of a motor mount a sign of (internal) failure?

Generic pic of what I mean from the web below.



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When I see pictures of old mounts next to new mounts the person references the old mounts being lower than the other with what I would assumed is a compressed base. But I would think that it would always look swollen compared to new because it is holding so much weight.


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  #41  
Old 01-11-2020, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by robinasu View Post
Might want to throw a vacuum gauge on there or find a friend with a fog system to check for vacuum Leaks.


I think I will reseal everything when I do the valve stem seals and then see what happens. I donít want any fault codes going into the valve stem seal job. Iím strongly considering an engine out reseal. I can also replace the engine mounts with ease at this time. Kinda want to hang onto this X5 for another 10 years. Then maybe restore it. So many of these V8s are dumped. I think the 4.8i X5 is a severely dying breed. I donít see them often.


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  #42  
Old 01-14-2020, 03:29 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Iíve been looking and searching a lot. I get the impression the right mount is doable; starter needs to come out to create room. The upper bolt of the starter is hard to reach. And then either lift engine a bit or remove engine support arm (or both) to get the mount out, along the exhaust. And then pray is fits past everything. NewTIS suggests so, since it has no further instructions.

The left mount sucks, but maybe it can be taken out past the front wheel suspension. With the left cv shaft out, There is space over the differential, past the opening where the shaft sat, and out sideways. But I cannot find decent pictures on the web indicating how large that passage will be.


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  #43  
Old 01-20-2020, 02:22 AM
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I'm going to try the mounts. I just ordered parts. Stay tuned for a new thread somewhere in the next 3 weeks.

So far, I'm still mostly worried about the left mount; a hydrolic line with funny routing along the left mount, access to the top nut (past the steering shaft) and whether I can lift/rotate the engine enough to get the left mount out without loosening the front diff or the engine support arm. It's so tight in that corner.
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  #44  
Old 01-20-2020, 05:40 AM
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I'm going to try the mounts. I just ordered parts. Stay tuned for a new thread somewhere in the next 3 weeks.



So far, I'm still mostly worried about the left mount; a hydrolic line with funny routing along the left mount, access to the top nut (past the steering shaft) and whether I can lift/rotate the engine enough to get the left mount out without loosening the front diff or the engine support arm. It's so tight in that corner.


Are you right or left hand drive? I have heard the hydraulic line can be moved a little but it ends up bouncing around where you have to work.


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Old 01-20-2020, 06:36 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

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Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Are you right or left hand drive? I have heard the hydraulic line can be moved a little but it ends up bouncing around where you have to work.


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Left

I looked up the mounting points of the lines. I think Iím good there. The guy from the pic below forgot the upper one, on the side of the mount ďcupĒ





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  #46  
Old 01-20-2020, 07:18 AM
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Left

I looked up the mounting points of the lines. I think Iím good there. The guy from the pic below forgot the upper one, on the side of the mount ďcupĒ





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Take tons of pictures! The only person I know that has done this did it in his driveway and it took him a full day. He is a BMW master tech. He said it would be much faster on a lift.


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Old 01-20-2020, 08:32 AM
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I can handle driveshafts, I have the 36mm star socket, and special "push out" and "draw in" tools. If the clearances work out I do not have to touch the subframe, reducing the risk of terrible mistakes, and the need for a lift. Fingers crossed.

And I can have better lunch & dinner while working on my driveway.
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  #48  
Old 02-02-2020, 09:28 AM
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Engine mount has been confirmed to be bad. Driverís side jumps up on acceleration. Will need to replace both to stop the strain on the X5.


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  #49  
Old 02-05-2020, 04:30 PM
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Shop only wants to use BMW engine mounts since they couldnít source Corteco brand. Parts $310. Labor $760. Iíll ask them to get a good picture of the mounts before and after. Will be completed in a couple weeks.


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Old 02-06-2020, 12:44 AM
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Fixed price? 4hrs labour? As I wouldnít be surprised is it takes more than that because of the front diff in the way. Even for a pro shop.


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