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Old 01-03-2020, 02:01 PM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Have a few things failing at once. One is the engine mounts on my 2008 4.8i with adaptive drive. They are original and I have 167,000 miles. Looks like a complicated job done from underneath. Does this sound right? Anyone have this done on their 4.8i?


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Old 01-03-2020, 02:14 PM
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Seems about right for both left and right mounts. I was in a collision and had one replaced under insurance and it was itemized at $738.
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Old 01-03-2020, 06:38 PM
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Seems about right for both left and right mounts. I was in a collision and had one replaced under insurance and it was itemized at $738.


Would love to diy this but looks a little too involved.


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Old 01-03-2020, 07:09 PM
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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/GJPYAPq

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/Q0yejFj

Seeing both of these but wondering if there is a shortcut.


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Old 01-03-2020, 10:19 PM
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Hmmm. No help here.

Google-Fu says:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...mount-diy.html

https://bmwtechnician.com/2016/07/09...e-motor-mount/


Seems to be a range of complexity....
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Old 01-04-2020, 05:36 AM
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Ex-spurts know all the shortcuts - because there is never (book) time to do it right the first time, but always (customers) money to do it over. Can you afford his mistake?
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Old 01-04-2020, 06:55 AM
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At first I thought $1,100 was a bit high but it looks like it would also include an oil change as it has to be drained to complete the mount replacement. Maybe this is a good time to do valve stem seals with the engine out. Maybe this will absorb the entire cost of engine mount installation.


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Old 01-04-2020, 08:43 AM
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Hard to compare, but I think the price is not too bad. Mounts 100 each, 5 hrs or so labor. I was quoted 700 euro not too long ago ( but i left it, mine are still ok enough it seems )

Engine stays in place but subframe has to come down is what I understood.

Please post pics and how your mounts look!


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Old 01-04-2020, 09:05 AM
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Id like to hear their reason for the oil change requirement. Seems bogus to me.


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Old 01-04-2020, 09:21 AM
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Id like to hear their reason for the oil change requirement. Seems bogus to me.


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Newtis states the oil dipstick tube has to be removed. Iím guessing thatís why.


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Old 01-04-2020, 09:32 AM
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Iím surprised there are minimal write ups on engine mount replacements on the 4.8i with adaptive drive. A guy I know did it on his 35D with adaptive drive and said the adaptive drive hoses are in the way even after loosened. Doesnít look like too difficult of a replacement but more annoying.


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Old 01-04-2020, 09:34 AM
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I'd bet $1100 the dealer does NOT follow every step in the procedure..... don't bank on it.
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Old 01-04-2020, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Newtis states the oil dipstick tube has to be removed. Iím guessing thatís why.


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Ah. Newtis works its way in from the top it seems. My impression is that it makes more sense to get to them from below. Those mounts are big. But this is just textbook knowledge. No experience.

Most online reports are from rwd I6 engines. Our v8s have both front diff and exhaust in the way on the drivers side...


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Old 01-04-2020, 07:35 PM
paramedic1079 paramedic1079 is offline
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I just had both engine mounts replaced on my X5 with N55 and it took a BMW indy 5 hours @100/hr. I'm not sure how much different it is from your V8.
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Old 01-04-2020, 07:46 PM
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I just had both engine mounts replaced on my X5 with N55 and it took a BMW indy 5 hours @100/hr. I'm not sure how much different it is from your V8.


I hear that the adaptive drive and V8 makes it tough.


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Old 01-05-2020, 03:01 AM
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What are your symptoms?

If you go for it, do me a favor please and take a good look and feel at the old and the new mounts and report back.



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Old 01-05-2020, 07:00 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by deroy View Post
What are your symptoms?

If you go for it, do me a favor please and take a good look and feel at the old and the new mounts and report back.



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Hopefully this gives you a good idea. When I did that huge amount of work in early 2019 (transfer pipe, valve covers, timing covers, water pump, oil cooler bracket, etc) I also had a vibration. One I felt in the dash and steering wheel. Engine ran super smooth with no leaks and oil consumption was at 8,000 miles per quart. I couldnít even add between oil changes. The vibration never went away. Now the vibration is more significant. The vibration is felt below 1,000 rpms and resonates through the X5 when idling at a light or in park. Like humming in a low tone. With the hood open the engine is very smooth and quiet. I think I can also hear the vibration at times when I put my head under the X5 while it idles. The only thing I havenít checked is for engine movement in neutral when I step on the gas with the hood open.


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Old 01-05-2020, 07:33 AM
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Any vibration or humming at 40+ mph?


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Old 01-05-2020, 07:46 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Quote:
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Any vibration or humming at 40+ mph?


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None. It is only below 1,000 rpms and resonates most at about 600rpms.

I do also occasionally have a slight clunk (really soft) that I think is related. Happens occasionally after a bump. Not suspension related. Transmission shifts well.

Edit to add additional information: With the initial pressing of the gas pedal after being stopped and idling I can feel the vibration change with the minor increase in rpms until it disappears over 1,000 rpms. Hope that makes sense.


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Old 01-05-2020, 07:11 PM
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This symptom may still point toward engine mounts but I have another symptom. When parked and I feel the vibration at idle, the vibration intensifies slightly if I turn the steering wheel a little left or right. I assume this is because I am increasing the engine load slightly into the range that makes the vibration more noticeable. Any other thoughts? Drove the car on the highway today and it drives great. Still sound like engine mounts or could it be differential or power steering related?


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Old 01-06-2020, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
This symptom may still point toward engine mounts but I have another symptom. When parked and I feel the vibration at idle, the vibration intensifies slightly if I turn the steering wheel a little left or right. I assume this is because I am increasing the engine load slightly into the range that makes the vibration more noticeable. Any other thoughts? Drove the car on the highway today and it drives great. Still sound like engine mounts or could it be differential or power steering related?


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You can try idling with higher load with a few heavy electrical items on vs. all off ( incl
AC). See what that does.

After similar symptoms i replaced the harmonic balancer and spark plugs. That helped me enough to further leave it as is. But Iím following your thread closely.


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Old 01-06-2020, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deroy View Post
You can try idling with higher load with a few heavy electrical items on vs. all off ( incl
AC). See what that does.

After similar symptoms i replaced the harmonic balancer and spark plugs. That helped me enough to further leave it as is. But Iím following your thread closely.


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My spark plugs are fairly new. Installed 8/2018. Doesnít feel plug related. Harmonic balancer was off for my big job and reinstalled without a hitch. Doesnít feel like or sound like a harmonic balancer issue either. Iím going to start with checking power steering fluid. Perhaps the pump is a little dry and pumping some air. As for a higher load, I canít run the ac very well until the compressor pulley is fixed. Iíll continue to report back. I think you and I drive a similar spec X5. None of this ever gives me a fault code.


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Old 01-06-2020, 10:28 AM
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Power steering fluid is fine. Iím going to check my intake hoses/tubes. Maybe by chance it has a crack in it.


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Old 01-07-2020, 07:47 AM
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$1,100 for new engine mounts sound right? 4.8i with adaptive drive

Started to think deeper on this. Perhaps I have increased pressure at idle when vacuum is at its highest. This might explain why I have some oil weeping on new gaskets and a vibration that goes away when vacuum is lessened. A couple months ago I found that one of my CCV diaphragms was stuck in place. The one on the drivers side under the valve coverís cover. I had to pull it up like a sticker off of paper out of where it sits. I cleaned it a little but not perfectly. Since then I havenít had any smoke and my oil consumption is next to nothing. Anyone think this could be related? I havenít looked at the diaphram since to see if it is stuck again or what would be causing the higher pressure or stuck diaphram. This thread might take a turn. Looking for everyoneís thoughts.


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Old 01-07-2020, 08:17 AM
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I think it all works like this:

At idle, vacuum at the air intake is highest, also sucking air out of the cranckcase too. (And oil past your valve stems seals.) The PCV valve is sucked CLOSED, preventing from developing too much vacuum in the cranckcase. With a ripped valve, air from the outside world is sucked in, entering the intake unmetered, throwing that famous lean code. At full throttle, blow-by makes it to the cranckcase, increasing pressure there, pushing the PCV valve open, releasing toxic gasses into the intake again, rather than to the outside world. This is an emissions control system. The spring tension in the PCV valve determines the crossover point between these two extremes.

So, VCG oil leakage, but also oil spray out of the little PCV valve nozzle when the valve is ripped, are prone to happen at full throttle, NOT at idle.

When my VCGs were leaking, I could produce a nice blue could of burnt oil by flooring it on the highway, pushing oil drops out through the leaking valve cover gaskets.
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