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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #101  
Old 05-01-2019, 07:42 PM
karzrus karzrus is offline
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I have not done this on a BMW so it might be different but every other car I have done this on, the pilot bearing is installed/seated in the end of the crankshaft rather than mounted in the flywheel. The flywheel has a hole in the centre of it and slides over the end of the crank and is bolted to the flange on it.

So you will want to leave the flywheel in place and do the grease press out trick to the bearing while itís all in the car.
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  #102  
Old 05-02-2019, 05:11 AM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by karzrus View Post
I have not done this on a BMW so it might be different but every other car I have done this on, the pilot bearing is installed/seated in the end of the crankshaft rather than mounted in the flywheel. The flywheel has a hole in the centre of it and slides over the end of the crank and is bolted to the flange on it.

So you will want to leave the flywheel in place and do the grease press out trick to the bearing while itís all in the car.
By looking at the ISTA instruction it has 2 different procdures. Both indicating that flywheel should be removed but one of them show it being replaced while the thing is still on the car?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ywheel/4Igdmh6

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ywheel/Fj97nLf

I don't know why two separate instructions. The actual part number for the pivot bearing comes back as;
Cylindrical roller bearing,radial
15X24X26 1
21207536792

When I search that part # I get this item which came in the clutch kit. Which is not an actual ball style bearing at all, but instead a cup style one.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...uk-21207536792
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  #103  
Old 05-02-2019, 09:42 AM
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Attacking Mid Attacking Mid is offline
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I don't think you should have to remove the flywheel to remove/replace the pilot bearing. Remember, BMW has a "special" tool for everything. In reality, just pull the thing out and tap in the new one (tapping on the outside race, of course).

AM.
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  #104  
Old 05-03-2019, 10:22 AM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
I don't think you should have to remove the flywheel to remove/replace the pilot bearing. Remember, BMW has a "special" tool for everything. In reality, just pull the thing out and tap in the new one (tapping on the outside race, of course).

AM.
I have one of these pilot bearing pullers, but even when the forks are pulled in all together its still too wide to fit into that pilot bearing to pull out..


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  #105  
Old 05-03-2019, 10:56 AM
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Can you remove it hydraulically as previously mentioned? Also, you might try removing one jaw on your puller and see if you can pop it out with just the one. They typically aren't super tight
AM.

Last edited by Attacking Mid; 05-03-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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  #106  
Old 05-03-2019, 04:32 PM
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If there isn't a hole behind the bearing you can pack the cavity full of grease and then put the shaft into the bearing and tap on the end of the shaft. This forces the bearing out without damage.

If it's not a closed cavity you need a set of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PC-BLIND-H...-/170893840799
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  #107  
Old 05-04-2019, 12:43 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Got it out, pulled the flywheel down and just hammered old out and new in. Easy peasy and put the new bearing in the freezer for a couple hours prior.

Question, while reinstalling the flywheel bolts to tighten to spec what I had in place to hold it skipped slightly so it turned. What damage if any causes this? is the intent to hold the flywheel the one and only reason to prevent it from turning so that proper torque can be achieved on the bolts? But no harm is done if it does turn?
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  #108  
Old 05-04-2019, 12:50 PM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepo23 View Post
Got it out, pulled the flywheel down and just hammered old out and new in. Easy peasy and put the new bearing in the freezer for a couple hours prior.

Question, while reinstalling the flywheel bolts to tighten to spec what I had in place to hold it skipped slightly so it turned. What damage if any causes this? is the intent to hold the flywheel the one and only reason to prevent it from turning so that proper torque can be achieved on the bolts? But no harm is done if it does turn?
You are correct. The only reason to counterhold it is to achieve the proper torque.
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  #109  
Old 05-04-2019, 05:15 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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You are correct. The only reason to counterhold it is to achieve the proper torque.


Thanks for confirming, I started sweating that something is fubard now. Luckily the teeth are intact too still.


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  #110  
Old 05-07-2019, 06:02 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Alright to update this as itís been a few days. Got out tonight and installed the new clutch and pressure plate. For people that do this the alignment tool needs to be trimmed 1/4Ē to 1/2Ē in order to fit under the locking mechanism. Once the pressure plate is fastened the allen bolt is undone on the alignment tool and then the locking mechanism can be released think it was a 12 or 14mm. Screw the Allen bolt back to the alignment tool and pull it out.

Then came the fun part of sliding the transmission in. I cut two old the old E18 bolts heads off and fingered tightened them on opposite holes to use as guide pins to get transmission back on. After messing around for an hour trying to line it all up etc it finally went on. I had to add additional jacks to my jack in order to level it evenly to slide on.

Got the bolts on around the bell housing, reconnected the slave cylinder. Hooked up the reverse light connector. Still need to do the oxygen sensors and move towards the transfer case.


A little trick for the splines to line up. When you remove the alignment tool that has groves take it over to the input shaft and keep the orientation the same, mark the bottom centre on it with a pen) this is just for a reference point. Then when your at the input shaft turn the splines so that are close to going matching up with alignment tool as that is your matting end on the clutch!









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  #111  
Old 05-07-2019, 06:55 PM
dynagroove dynagroove is offline
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nice work @Jeepo! Glad it's coming back together.
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  #112  
Old 05-08-2019, 06:46 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by dynagroove View Post
nice work @Jeepo! Glad it's coming back together.
Thanks dynagroove!

To grease the output shaft on the transmission and input on the transfer case, any idea what I should be using?

I typically use Lucas Red & Tacky Grease Cartridge, NLGI #2 on my Jeep for all the zerks/boots for years without issues. anyone see any issue with lightly coating the new output shaft with this stuff before sliding it back to the transfer case?
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  #113  
Old 05-09-2019, 07:41 AM
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For things like spline lubrication, my preference is a moly-infused grease, but I wouldn't run out and make a special trip. The Lucas stuff should work fine. Congrats on rounding third and heading for home! Hopefully there's not a long throw on its way from left field. Hey, it's baseball season, what can I say?

AM.
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  #114  
Old 05-09-2019, 05:14 PM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
For things like spline lubrication, my preference is a moly-infused grease, but I wouldn't run out and make a special trip. The Lucas stuff should work fine. Congrats on rounding third and heading for home! Hopefully there's not a long throw on its way from left field. Hey, it's baseball season, what can I say?

AM.
Well got the transfer case back on, after a few tries to get it to line up and be perfectly in line with bolt holes took some fidgeting around. Installed the cross member and all was well.

Went to reconnect the front driveshaft and instead of slowly turning the screws to pull the driveshaft closer to the transfer case flange cause I was about 1/4" away if that, I pulled slightly on the transfer case flange and a bunch of transfer case fluid came out

Now I'll have to change the T/C fluid again, this stuff isn't even 2.5years old, 25k miles maybe.. fml. Last time I did it I used OEM BMW stuff. Anything out there that's just as good but cheaper?

Besides the T/C fluid change, all thats left is the rear driveshaft to the output flange on T/C, exhaust system and just the shields.
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  #115  
Old 05-09-2019, 05:29 PM
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I used this in my E53 (same TC as E83): https://smile.amazon.com/Rock-Oil-TF...gateway&sr=8-5

Can't vouch for it given it's only been in there a short time, but I felt confident enough to use it. You may have never heard of Rock Oil, but they've been around in Europe for a long time. I was familiar with them from my motorcycle racing days.

AM.
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  #116  
Old 05-09-2019, 05:36 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Why are you upset? You're due for a TC fluid change anyway! Every 20-25k miles, no question. I haven't tried Ravenol, but for a few extra bucks every 20k miles, why bother? Last time I did it I got the BMW stuff for $40.

Awesome work, by the way. Reminds me why I never want to pull another transmission again. Well done, sir.
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  #117  
Old 05-09-2019, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
I used this in my E53 (same TC as E83): https://smile.amazon.com/Rock-Oil-TF...gateway&sr=8-5

Can't vouch for it given it's only been in there a short time, but I felt confident enough to use it. You may have never heard of Rock Oil, but they've been around in Europe for a long time. I was familiar with them from my motorcycle racing days.

AM.
What bikes did you race?
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  #118  
Old 05-09-2019, 07:19 PM
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Jeepo,

Awesome work!!!! Very impressive.

Just get the bmw tc fluid. After all that seriously painstakingly difficult work you just did (not to mention the cost) don't skimp on the last final leg of your journey.
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  #119  
Old 05-09-2019, 08:14 PM
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Attacking Mid Attacking Mid is offline
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What bikes did you race?
Raced motocross until I was about 20, and then became an enduro and hare scrambles rider. Mostly local stuff in the midwest and TX. Was a local AA rider in both Iowa and Texas. Rode some in CO, but was winding down by then. Rode the ISDE in 94 when it was in the US. Finished (most didn't), but my time was penalized when I accidentally left a checkpoint early, so I only got a bronze medal.

Rode 250cc two strokes exclusively. Kawi, Husky, Can Am (factory support rider for two years), Cagiva, Yamaha, back to Kawi at the end. Loved it all, but family eventually took precedence. Became a hardcore soccer dad (thus the Attacking Mid moniker). Now I mostly ride mountain bikes for recreation. Sorry, I got a little long-winded there!

AM.
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  #120  
Old 05-10-2019, 07:03 AM
abscate abscate is offline
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Your still a glory seeking midfielder. Real character is in the Back line.

Iíve had a great year watching Van Dyck on Liverpool come into his game.

+1000 points on the Bimmer work, football needling aside
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  #121  
Old 05-10-2019, 07:11 AM
jeepo23 jeepo23 is offline
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Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
I used this in my E53 (same TC as E83): https://smile.amazon.com/Rock-Oil-TF...gateway&sr=8-5

Yah seems to be a few bucks cheaper, but looks like to get my hands on this won't be easy. I'll just get the OEM from the Dealer.

Can't vouch for it given it's only been in there a short time, but I felt confident enough to use it. You may have never heard of Rock Oil, but they've been around in Europe for a long time. I was familiar with them from my motorcycle racing days.

AM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Why are you upset? You're due for a TC fluid change anyway! Every 20-25k miles, no question. I haven't tried Ravenol, but for a few extra bucks every 20k miles, why bother? Last time I did it I got the BMW stuff for $40.

Awesome work, by the way. Reminds me why I never want to pull another transmission again. Well done, sir.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Q4 View Post
Jeepo,

Awesome work!!!! Very impressive.

Just get the bmw tc fluid. After all that seriously painstakingly difficult work you just did (not to mention the cost) don't skimp on the last final leg of your journey.
Thanks guys! I've done a fair bit of DIY work, but I gotta say this probably being the largest on the list. Working with just under 20" of space does make this for a challenge. I know most of you probably won't encounter this with the Automatic since the 6-speed is somewhat rare, but if someone does have the same problem at leas they will see its doable.

Next items on the to do list and I have the parts sitting on the bench is rear coil spring, rtabs and new fuel filter.

I enjoy working on vehicles and with this task it really got me thinking of a solution to aid this kind of future work without buying a lift. I've come across people building wooden ramps or blocks to let the wheels sit on which may be a future project I endeavor in. Anything special the rest of you use?
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  #122  
Old 05-10-2019, 08:52 AM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Originally Posted by jeepo23 View Post
I enjoy working on vehicles and with this task it really got me thinking of a solution to aid this kind of future work without buying a lift. I've come across people building wooden ramps or blocks to let the wheels sit on which may be a future project I endeavor in. Anything special the rest of you use?
I have 4 sets of ramps, so I just put one at each wheel and drive the car up, and much safer than stands.

When I had to yank the transmission on my 442 for a cracked torque converter, I couldn't get the vehicle up high enough for the transmission jack to be of any use (jacking up one side then the other would drive a bumper to the ground and not allow a jack underneath). I had to make a 2nd class lever (think wheel barrow) with two 8ft 2x4s resting on concrete blocks on the right side of the car, resting on wood cribbing on the left, and sitting under the transmission. Free the flex plate and bellhousing bolts, knock on the cribbing, and then slide the transmission down the ramps created by the 2x4s... reinstallation was the reverse, with the leverage provided by the 2x4s allowing easy lifting. Once under the car, I wrestling and shimmying the tranny on to the engine-side alignment dowels was a pain but doable.
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  #123  
Old 05-10-2019, 01:39 PM
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https://www.quickjack.com/
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  #124  
Old 05-10-2019, 05:13 PM
dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Too rich for my blood. The Olds would still have been too low with the trans jack, the X3 maybe has the ground clearance.


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  #125  
Old 05-10-2019, 06:01 PM
dynagroove dynagroove is offline
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^^This.
I own one. I love it. Worth every penny.
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