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  #1  
Old 11-27-2017, 08:02 AM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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Engine Misfire Issue

Hi Guys,

I have 2010 BMW 328i xDrive SULEV (N51). I had engine misfire in cyl 1(Code:29CD) with CEL ON and car was shaking/ rough idling. There was also an oil leak from valve cover gasket. So I replaced gasket, eccentric shaft sensor seal, spark plug seal and replaced all 6 spark plugs. Now I have misfire in cyl 3(Code:29CF).
I thought that coil pack must be bad since I didn't mark the coil packs when I removed them and must have interchanged cyl 1 with cyl 3. So, I swapped the coil pack between cylinders but it was still cyl 3.
Then I thought maybe the new spark plug is bad so I swapped cyl 3 plug with cyl 1 plug but it was still cyl 3. I noticed one thing though - the new cyl 1 plug tip was little burnt/black whereas the misfire cyl 3 plug tip was like new. I believe blackish tip should be normal if not then there is carbon build up (since the old spark plug were all black till the thread)? If it is normal then looks like the misfire cyl 3 plug is not getting current (since the tip was like new)?
Another possibility could be the bad injector in cyl 3 but if that was the case then why was it cyl 1 before replacing everything?
I didn't change the VANOS solenoid or eccentric shaft sensor. Do you guys think that could be the issue? Do the aforementioned parts throw their respective codes?

Also, I have DSC+4X4(AWD) lights ON. Codes are
55C3 - AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
6EC4 - Steering-angle senor, adjustement.
I believe these could be due to disconnected battery for 3-4 days?? looks like I have to get senor calibration done at dealership. Weird part is that TCS light is not ON which is usually the case when DSC is not OK.
I am mostly concerned about engine misfire here and I have list all the possibilities I could find on forums but I am not sure if I am right here. Therefore, I need some guidance here.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2017, 08:57 AM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershax View Post
Hi Guys,



I have 2010 BMW 328i xDrive SULEV (N51). I had engine misfire in cyl 1(Code:29CD) with CEL ON and car was shaking/ rough idling. There was also an oil leak from valve cover gasket. So I replaced gasket, eccentric shaft sensor seal, spark plug seal and replaced all 6 spark plugs. Now I have misfire in cyl 3(Code:29CF).

I thought that coil pack must be bad since I didn't mark the coil packs when I removed them and must have interchanged cyl 1 with cyl 3. So, I swapped the coil pack between cylinders but it was still cyl 3.

Then I thought maybe the new spark plug is bad so I swapped cyl 3 plug with cyl 1 plug but it was still cyl 3. I noticed one thing though - the new cyl 1 plug tip was little burnt/black whereas the misfire cyl 3 plug tip was like new. I believe blackish tip should be normal if not then there is carbon build up (since the old spark plug were all black till the thread)? If it is normal then looks like the misfire cyl 3 plug is not getting current (since the tip was like new)?

Another possibility could be the bad injector in cyl 3 but if that was the case then why was it cyl 1 before replacing everything?

I didn't change the VANOS solenoid or eccentric shaft sensor. Do you guys think that could be the issue? Do the aforementioned parts throw their respective codes?



Also, I have DSC+4X4(AWD) lights ON. Codes are

55C3 - AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque

6EC4 - Steering-angle senor, adjustement.

I believe these could be due to disconnected battery for 3-4 days?? looks like I have to get senor calibration done at dealership. Weird part is that TCS light is not ON which is usually the case when DSC is not OK.

I am mostly concerned about engine misfire here and I have list all the possibilities I could find on forums but I am not sure if I am right here. Therefore, I need some guidance here.



Thanks.

1-make sure the connections to the coils are all secure.
2- the coil wirings to the coils are not switched. So connector #1 is connected coil#1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3,...

3-check the spark plug ground wire which is bolted to the valve cover.

4-check the engine ground wire.
5-check the injector wiring harness. Those retainer clips must be there. Make sure those are all seated correctly and connection is ON.

6- Re calibration, ensure to reset the vvt (manually or on ista/inpa)

7-Eccentric shaft sensor doesnít probably contribute to the misfire.
8- the Sensor doesnít need calibration. At least Iíve never read nor heard of.

report back.




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  #3  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:34 AM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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Hi AlphaBetaX5

1-I checked all the connections and they all look secure, I will double check them tonight.

2- The coil wiring are not switched, I checked it.

3-Spark plug ground wire is bolted to the valve cover.

4-Where is the engine ground wire? I don't think I ever disconnected it while doing the repair.....

5-I believe injector wiring harness is the black plastic rail that has six pins with retainer clips? It has been seated correctly now but when I first started the engine I forgot to plug it in and hence engine didn't start. After that I ensured it is connected properly however this black plastic rail/wiring harness has three cables coming out which has three connectors w/ retainer clips. I lost 2 clips while I was trying to take them out and for now I have just plugged them back in w/o the clip. Do you think that could be the issue? I have attached the image.

6- Re calibration, ensure to reset the vvt (manually or on ista/inpa) - How do you do this? Are you talking about that spring tensioner in the motor attached to valve cover? Attached its image

8- AWD ECU is not receiving requested torque signal from DSC ECU therefore I am thinking it might need calibration update or ECU flash since it is caused due to un-calibrated steering sensor (unless steering sensor is messed up). Has anyone has this issue ever?

Also I messed up while I was removing the valve cover, I broke one hose pipe that goes into the back of valve cover and another small plastic nose that goes onto the top of valve cover. These two pipes come from the intake and I glued them up. Do you think that could be an issue? I have attached its image too.
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2017, 12:22 PM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershax View Post
Hi AlphaBetaX5



1-I checked all the connections and they all look secure, I will double check them tonight.



2- The coil wiring are not switched, I checked it.



3-Spark plug ground wire is bolted to the valve cover.



4-Where is the engine ground wire? I don't think I ever disconnected it while doing the repair.....



5-I believe injector wiring harness is the black plastic rail that has six pins with retainer clips? It has been seated correctly now but when I first started the engine I forgot to plug it in and hence engine didn't start. After that I ensured it is connected properly however this black plastic rail/wiring harness has three cables coming out which has three connectors w/ retainer clips. I lost 2 clips while I was trying to take them out and for now I have just plugged them back in w/o the clip. Do you think that could be the issue? I have attached the image.



6- Re calibration, ensure to reset the vvt (manually or on ista/inpa) - How do you do this? Are you talking about that spring tensioner in the motor attached to valve cover? Attached its image



8- AWD ECU is not receiving requested torque signal from DSC ECU therefore I am thinking it might need calibration update or ECU flash since it is caused due to un-calibrated steering sensor (unless steering sensor is messed up). Has anyone has this issue ever?



Also I messed up while I was removing the valve cover, I broke one hose pipe that goes into the back of valve cover and another small plastic nose that goes onto the top of valve cover. These two pipes come from the intake and I glued them up. Do you think that could be an issue? I have attached its image too.


1-3 sound good.

4-Check the front passenger corner of the engine. Also if you google it it helps.

5- those three: oil temp sensor, cps and vanos inlet solenoid, probably donít play a role here.

But the injector rails yes. Remove and inspect #3 closely. Remove the connection for injector #3 and start the engine and scan for codes. If still misfiring #3, that is probably your issue. Swap it with another injector connection if you can and see if it follows.


6- yes, servomotor, or valvetronic motor. Manually: ignition on for 2 minuets. Off. On for 2 minuets. It should happen automatically. Or use ISTA. (Service function-powertrain-adjustment-valvetronic-ABL adjust end limits.


Re the hoses, the hose in the back is the engine breather or vent. It is connected to your CCV integrated into the valve cover.
As long as it is sealed 100% itís good. It MUST be leak free. Otherwise you will get lean codes.



That nipple like small tube that is connected to the CcV valve (it is a diaphragm), there should not be any hose connected to it. It should remain as is in order for the diaphragm to work properly. It can reportedly cause random misfire.

Take a picture if your glued hoses when you can.





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  #5  
Old 11-28-2017, 03:35 PM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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Hi AlphaBetaX5,

5 - So removed and inspect the injector wiring rail and noticed that there is little bit of oil residue in N0. 3,4,5,6 pins (there was a lot before I tried to clean it as much as I could). I have attache dthe image of pins I am talking about.
I am yet to try removing the injector 3 connection and check codes. Regarding swapping it with another injector connection - Don't you have to code injectors into ECU when replacing the injectors? I read this on forum. If that's the case then how will swapping the injector connection make the code follow the cylinder?

6- I am yet to do this, I will do this tonight. Also when I turn IG ON (no engine start) I hear the clicking noise from hood (not sure from where it comes). Is that normal?

Regarding the hoses, I have attached the image of the nipple glued and the breather hose I have connected with the help of some rubber sealant and duct tape (not a good way to do it, but its temporary till I order the whole new hose). I am not getting any lean codes though. I have attached images respectively.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2017, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershax View Post
Hi AlphaBetaX5,



5 - So removed and inspect the injector wiring rail and noticed that there is little bit of oil residue in N0. 3,4,5,6 pins (there was a lot before I tried to clean it as much as I could). I have attache dthe image of pins I am talking about.

I am yet to try removing the injector 3 connection and check codes. Regarding swapping it with another injector connection - Don't you have to code injectors into ECU when replacing the injectors? I read this on forum. If that's the case then how will swapping the injector connection make the code follow the cylinder?



6- I am yet to do this, I will do this tonight. Also when I turn IG ON (no engine start) I hear the clicking noise from hood (not sure from where it comes). Is that normal?



Regarding the hoses, I have attached the image of the nipple glued and the breather hose I have connected with the help of some rubber sealant and duct tape (not a good way to do it, but its temporary till I order the whole new hose). I am not getting any lean codes though. I have attached images respectively.

5- You donít have to code them immediately for the purpose of diagnostics. They will work.
So clean the oil, use some brakleener to dry it. You didnít say whether misfire happened after cleaning the injector connector?

6-That is the VVT click It is normal. Means it is reset now.


So re the vacuum pipe connected to CCV valve, you can safely leave it as is. It is deleted in N52 engine. In your engine, it is connected to your intake muffler. Basically not vacuumed at all. On my engine, the little nipple-like pipe (which I broke it off too ) is open to air. It just must be open to air, so the diaphragm can move freely.



The breather hose must be sealed. If you donít get any lean codes, youíre good temporarily. And if you can seal it properly you should be good.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:13 AM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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Hi, please see my answer in red:

5- You donít have to code them immediately for the purpose of diagnostics. They will work.
So clean the oil, use some brakleener to dry it. You didnít say whether misfire happened after cleaning the injector connector? - I didn't run the engine before cleaning the connectors.

6-That is the VVT click It is normal. Means it is reset now. - It happens every time when I do IG ON... does it reset every time when you turn ON your car?

Ok, so here is what I did last night (the connector wires are so specific in lengh that even after cutting zip tie they won't reach other injectors):

Step 1: Connected Cyl 2 connector to cyl 3 injector and left cyl 2 injector open since 3 won't reach there.
Reason : To see if working cylinder's connector could fix cyl 3 misfire
Codes: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3], 2E32 [Fuel Injector, cyl 3, activation], 29CC [Combustion misfires, cylinders], 29CE [Combustion misfires, cyl 2]
Step 2: Connected cyl 4 connector to cyl 5 injector and vice-versa (since these are the only ones that could reach each other's injector)
Reason: To see if swapping connectors can cause any codes or errors
Codes: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3]
Till here it looked like cyl 3 injector is bad since cyl 2 connector couldn't fix it
Step 3: Connected cyl 3 connector to cyl 4 injector and left cyl 3 open
Reason: To see if cyl 3 connector works
Code: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3], 2E33 [Fuel Injector, cyl 4, activation], 29CC [Combustion misfires, cylinders], 29D0 [Combustion misfires, cyl 4]

Now after this I was all confused because it looked like injector 3 is bad and also connector 3 is bad. But one thing I didn't understand was why codes 2E33 and 2E32 appeared din Step 1&3 when they didn't appear in Step 2???

So I went ahead and took out injector and swapped cyl 3 injector with cyl 2 and vice versa
CODE WAS STILL CYLINDER 3 MISFIRE!!! now this doesn't make sense since if injector was right then why there was still misfire in cyl 3 during Step 1 (if connector was bad)???

I am going crazy now lol, I don't know if still could be spark plugs or coil packs or wiring harness or maybe something mechanical inside cylinder 3 is messed up.......
I don't know how much the dealership guys will charge me for this but I guess that is my last resort. Does their diagnostic system report more specific codes/reason of why misfire is happening?
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
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Hi, please see my answer in red:



5- You donít have to code them immediately for the purpose of diagnostics. They will work.

So clean the oil, use some brakleener to dry it. You didnít say whether misfire happened after cleaning the injector connector? - I didn't run the engine before cleaning the connectors.



6-That is the VVT click It is normal. Means it is reset now. - It happens every time when I do IG ON... does it reset every time when you turn ON your car?



Ok, so here is what I did last night (the connector wires are so specific in lengh that even after cutting zip tie they won't reach other injectors):



Step 1: Connected Cyl 2 connector to cyl 3 injector and left cyl 2 injector open since 3 won't reach there.

Reason : To see if working cylinder's connector could fix cyl 3 misfire

Codes: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3], 2E32 [Fuel Injector, cyl 3, activation], 29CC [Combustion misfires, cylinders], 29CE [Combustion misfires, cyl 2]

Step 2: Connected cyl 4 connector to cyl 5 injector and vice-versa (since these are the only ones that could reach each other's injector)

Reason: To see if swapping connectors can cause any codes or errors

Codes: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3]

Till here it looked like cyl 3 injector is bad since cyl 2 connector couldn't fix it

Step 3: Connected cyl 3 connector to cyl 4 injector and left cyl 3 open

Reason: To see if cyl 3 connector works

Code: 29CF [Combustion misfires, cyl 3], 2E33 [Fuel Injector, cyl 4, activation], 29CC [Combustion misfires, cylinders], 29D0 [Combustion misfires, cyl 4]



Now after this I was all confused because it looked like injector 3 is bad and also connector 3 is bad. But one thing I didn't understand was why codes 2E33 and 2E32 appeared din Step 1&3 when they didn't appear in Step 2???



So I went ahead and took out injector and swapped cyl 3 injector with cyl 2 and vice versa

CODE WAS STILL CYLINDER 3 MISFIRE!!! now this doesn't make sense since if injector was right then why there was still misfire in cyl 3 during Step 1 (if connector was bad)???



I am going crazy now lol, I don't know if still could be spark plugs or coil packs or wiring harness or maybe something mechanical inside cylinder 3 is messed up.......

I don't know how much the dealership guys will charge me for this but I guess that is my last resort. Does their diagnostic system report more specific codes/reason of why misfire is happening?


That was a great piece of troubleshooting you did there.


Seems like a cylinder issue.
The 29CF was always there. That means the cylinder or piston nay have some issues.

Can you take a look inside the cylinder #3?

Here are the scenarios:
1-piston is stuck. Doesnít move at all.
2-valves are stuck open.


Check for carbon buildup. If you have too much carbon buildup, you need to clean them.


I used a wireless endoscopy to inspect inside the cylinders. Worked great. You can look inside via the plug hole.

Good progress!



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  #9  
Old 11-29-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by silvershax View Post


I am going crazy now lol, I don't know if still could be spark plugs or coil packs or wiring harness or maybe something mechanical inside cylinder 3 is messed up.......

I don't know how much the dealership guys will charge me for this but I guess that is my last resort. Does their diagnostic system report more specific codes/reason of why misfire is happening?

No, dealer will get the sane codes you did. They will charge you $180 for diagnostics. ( diagnostics fee varies from city to city I guess )

But now that youíre almost done with your troubleshooting, makes no sense to go to dealer.
Finish your diagnostics, if you still cannot figure it out, then have the dealer do the ďdiagnostics onlyĒ






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Old 11-30-2017, 01:34 PM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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Last night I put the old spark plugs back and finally misfire switched to cyl 4, then I swapped the ignition coil and the code followed the coil. I feel so stupid now lol, I don't know why it didn't follow the coil before when I tried maybe I wasn't using the diagnostic tool correctly. But I am happy that there is nothing wrong with the piton or valve. Thanks AlphaBetaX5 for all your help and for motivating me since I almost gave up and thought to take it to some mechanic or dealer.
I have ordered a new ignition coil and hope it's all good after that. I am gonna try putting the new spark plugs back in and check if those are good.
The only thing after this that is remaining is that 4X4 & steering sensor code which I think should go away once I drive the car around otherwise I believe only dealer/BMW mechanic can fix it.
Also there was one more code to which I didn't give any importance as I thought it's not a big deal but would like to confirm once more here. The code is A6CF - JBE: AUC Sensor.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:01 PM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Engine Misfire Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershax View Post
I swapped the ignition coil and the code followed the coil. I feel so stupid now lol, I don't know why it didn't follow the coil before when I tried maybe I wasn't using the diagnostic tool correctly.


Lol!!


Glad it was a simple issue!


Maybe you hadnít cleared the codes at that time!


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Last edited by AlphaBetaX5; 11-30-2017 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:06 PM
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Engine Misfire Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvershax View Post
The code is A6CF - JBE: AUC Sensor.

Check the microfilter Automatic Air Control Sensor.

Check the connection, fuse and wiring. If all look good, cleat the codes and scan it again.

If the codes returns, replace the sensor.



This is the procedure for X5:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ntrols/Q7gBKEj

Yours must be very similar.






Update:
This is the procedure that applies to your car:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ntrols/PFPtBOY





Also re 4x4 errors:
They appear every time battery is disconnected.
You should clear them and test drive the car. Then scan it again and see what code comes back.

Last edited by AlphaBetaX5; 11-30-2017 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:02 PM
silvershax silvershax is offline
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So replaced the coil, drove the car last night everything works great now and no miscellaneous codes anymore! Thanks for your help. Time to fix my other car soon lol
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:22 PM
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Glad itís fixed now!


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