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  #1  
Old 09-10-2019, 12:35 AM
freva freva is offline
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Battery charge and discharge test (e61 520d)

I bought a 2008 e61 520d early this year and I have the typical high battery discharge error since day 1. When I got the car the previous owner told me he just put a new battery in (Bosch S4 013 95Ah 800A). But with this error from the start I don't think he re-calibrated the battery or is just lying about the new battery. Recently I bought a cable with INPA and figured out how to do the re-calibration but only after 6 months of driving.

I took the battery out of the car and first I charged the battery to 13v with 14v/1A. I left the battery for 2h with nothing connected and the voltage dropped to 12.7v. After checking this I started the discharge test and drew 1.2A about 15W from the battery and left it overnight. These are the results:
After 5min -> 12.46v
After 1h 30min -> 12.24v
After 3h 49min -> 12.02v
After 5h 48min -> 11.95v
After 13h 39min -> 11.79v
Currently its still discharging, I think I will go as low as 11.60v under load.

Do I need a new battery?
Whats the best battery I can buy for my car?
Rather not a BMW battery, my local BMW dealer is retarded...
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2019, 03:35 AM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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hey there,
You can tell if the battery has been changed on ISTA, if you go into the battery section (can post if you need me to)
it will tell you the millage the battery was replaced on... of course assuming it was calibrated (my dealer put a new bat in the car and inpa showed that)
also INPA will show you the battery charging rates and state of charge, which I would "tend" to follow most.
If I can remember I'll pull some screenshots or perhaps do a video.
As you probably know anything lower than 12.2 volts, and it's identified as a bad battery.
I would take the car to a shop and get them to do a battery check, also CAA (or US equivalent) can do a battery test for you.
DQM but I think if it's not calibrated from the start the battery could get damaged.
Also maybe look into what is discharging the battery if you replace the battery it's pointless.
so I would do this

1> Go into INPA and pull the battery details
2> Have the battery tested
3> replace (if faulty) and calibrate
4> if battery is good work out what is the source of the current drain
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2019, 09:00 AM
freva freva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaye944 View Post
hey there,
You can tell if the battery has been changed on ISTA, if you go into the battery section (can post if you need me to)
it will tell you the millage the battery was replaced on... of course assuming it was calibrated (my dealer put a new bat in the car and inpa showed that)
also INPA will show you the battery charging rates and state of charge, which I would "tend" to follow most.
If I can remember I'll pull some screenshots or perhaps do a video.
As you probably know anything lower than 12.2 volts, and it's identified as a bad battery.
I would take the car to a shop and get them to do a battery check, also CAA (or US equivalent) can do a battery test for you.
DQM but I think if it's not calibrated from the start the battery could get damaged.
Also maybe look into what is discharging the battery if you replace the battery it's pointless.
so I would do this

1> Go into INPA and pull the battery details
2> Have the battery tested
3> replace (if faulty) and calibrate
4> if battery is good work out what is the source of the current drain
Thank you for your answer. I'm getting a new AGM start/stop 95Ah battery tomorrow, pretty sure this one is dead. Also I checked the registered Ah in INPA and its at 81Ah not the 95Ah. Maybe it registered it faulty a week ago because of the dead battery. In info field 1 of the IBS it also showed the last registered battery km was when the first owner had the car and I'm the 3th owner. But I still don't understand why undercharging a battery would kill it in 6 months?

I will check the current draw when the car is turned off tomorrow.
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2019, 02:08 PM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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coolio !

Quote:
Originally Posted by freva View Post
Thank you for your answer. I'm getting a new AGM start/stop 95Ah battery tomorrow, pretty sure this one is dead. Also I checked the registered Ah in INPA and its at 81Ah not the 95Ah. Maybe it registered it faulty a week ago because of the dead battery. In info field 1 of the IBS it also showed the last registered battery km was when the first owner had the car and I'm the 3th owner. But I still don't understand why undercharging a battery would kill it in 6 months?

I will check the current draw when the car is turned off tomorrow.
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2019, 02:41 AM
freva freva is offline
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I checked it with my amp meter, when the battery is connected it draws 5A for the first couple of minutes and then goes to 125mA.
Watched it for 10min and it stays around that level with all doors closed and everything off.
Its below the allowed 300mA, so no parasitic discharge.

But I noticed a large current draw above 10A when I locked the doors with the key when I was inside.
The doors never had an issue with locking and unlocking. Is this normal to draw +10A for locking the doors?
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2019, 05:42 AM
freva freva is offline
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I installed the new battery and registered it with INPA.
The new registered value is again 81Ah and the new battery is 95Ah.
Registering the battery doesn't seem to work with INPA on my e61 N47 2008.
(I pressed F5, as you can see in the screenshot and got a confirmation popup message)
I'm downloading and installing ISTA and will try it this way before I start the car.
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:41 AM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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I think it goes into standby mode for anything up to 20minutes
I would think 10A is far too high though

Quote:
Originally Posted by freva View Post
I checked it with my amp meter, when the battery is connected it draws 5A for the first couple of minutes and then goes to 125mA.
Watched it for 10min and it stays around that level with all doors closed and everything off.
Its below the allowed 300mA, so no parasitic discharge.

But I noticed a large current draw above 10A when I locked the doors with the key when I was inside.
The doors never had an issue with locking and unlocking. Is this normal to draw +10A for locking the doors?
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2019, 08:42 AM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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yeah that's not good,
YES, I would try ista
keep us in the loop

Quote:
Originally Posted by freva View Post
I installed the new battery and registered it with INPA.
The new registered value is again 81Ah and the new battery is 95Ah.
Registering the battery doesn't seem to work with INPA on my e61 N47 2008.
(I pressed F5, as you can see in the screenshot and got a confirmation popup message)
I'm downloading and installing ISTA and will try it this way before I start the car.
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  #9  
Old 09-12-2019, 01:35 PM
freva freva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaye944 View Post
yeah that's not good,
YES, I would try ista
keep us in the loop
Spend all day trying to fix this problem.
I installed ISTA D where you can only re register the same Ah and if you want to change it the page refers you to use ISTA P battery.
I installed ISTA P and got it working I found where to change it but when I want to execute the job it also wants to update modules and I don't even want to risk bricking anything for this stupid issue = also useless.
Next I installed BMWLogger, this also only lets you press register and doesn't change anything, same useless function as in INPA and ISTA D.
Now I installed 'Mike's Easy BMW Tools Package' wich broke all the other EDIABAS installs for old INPA and ISTA DP
With the tools package I want to use NCS expert and NCS dummy to change to change the 'batterie klasse' to 90Ah agm not 95Ah. 95Ah agm is apparently not an option.
But the INPA version that came with mikes tools doesn't have my engine and NCS doesn't have and expert mode nor does it show the code for all the options of my car.
I will try another tools package tomorrow that recognizes my engine and do the following:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1338304

If anyone else wants to try to do this I strongly recommend not using the BMW software and buy a bluetooth OBD with an android app, apparently this works flawless and easy for $60.

Last edited by freva; 09-12-2019 at 02:34 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-12-2019, 01:52 PM
Markst Markst is offline
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5Ah isn't going to make much of a difference, you could have used NCS dummy.
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2019, 03:01 PM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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I've been reliable told told, INPA/ISTA tools are usually good, depends I think on what version and data files you have, reclaimer, installed mine, with all the latest datapacks, I have a problem from time to time
with the cable, but mine comes up with the register battery, but I have never done that. Pity, def, most people would say use the proper BMW software over anything else.
I'm not sure that 5ah would or would not make a difference, I do not its not recommended to use anything but the correct values, incase of under or overcharging.

But good luck, keep on trucking and let us know how you get on
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2019, 03:15 PM
Markst Markst is offline
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What I meant is that if I remember correctly the options are fixed, you can't put in a random capacity, you need to choose from the list.
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  #13  
Old 09-12-2019, 03:20 PM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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no understood,

but there is a problem as OP also said
nor does it show the code for all the options of my car.
Reinhgold (sp) software should pick up and detect your car properly,
if not, then your going to have other issues
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  #14  
Old 09-12-2019, 04:12 PM
freva freva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaye944 View Post
I've been reliable told told, INPA/ISTA tools are usually good, depends I think on what version and data files you have, reclaimer, installed mine, with all the latest datapacks, I have a problem from time to time
with the cable, but mine comes up with the register battery, but I have never done that. Pity, def, most people would say use the proper BMW software over anything else.
I'm not sure that 5ah would or would not make a difference, I do not its not recommended to use anything but the correct values, incase of under or overcharging.

But good luck, keep on trucking and let us know how you get on
These are my current versions:
ISTA-D 4.14.14
ISTA-P 3.65.2.000
EDIABAS_7.3.0
INPA Don't remember the version, came from bcables worked well

I doubt they will ever add an update in the future to make this easier, otherwise they would already have done it.
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2019, 04:15 PM
freva freva is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markst View Post
What I meant is that if I remember correctly the options are fixed, you can't put in a random capacity, you need to choose from the list.
Exactly, this is the list you can chose from:
"B" represents wet-cell, while "A" represents AGM in the VO.
E B046 BATT_46AH //46 Ah-Batterie
E B055 BATT_55AH //55 Ah-Batterie
E B070 BATT_70AH //70 Ah-Batterie
E B080 BATT_80AH //80 Ah-Batterie
E B090 BATT_90AH //90 Ah-Batterie
E A070 BATT_AGM_70AH //70 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A080 BATT_AGM_80AH //80 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A090 BATT_AGM_90AH //90 Ah-AGM Batterie
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  #16  
Old 09-12-2019, 07:27 PM
Markst Markst is offline
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So NCS Dummy wasn't working on your car and you couldn't choose 'E A090 BATT_AGM_90AH //90 Ah-AGM Batterie''?
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2019, 12:00 AM
freva freva is offline
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Originally Posted by Markst View Post
So NCS Dummy wasn't working on your car and you couldn't choose 'E A090 BATT_AGM_90AH //90 Ah-AGM Batterie''?
I could select the different Ah options in NCS dummy but NCS expert wasn't set up correctly or a wrong version so I couldn't write the change back to the car. I will try the NCS expert and INPA I got from bcables, this INPA version worked earlier this week.

(apparently you don't really need NCS dummy if you know the list of options. I can just change 80 to 90 Ah in notepad and save it to a .MAN file)
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2019, 11:58 AM
freva freva is offline
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Succes! I didn't do the VO number. I'm not planning to update anything, everything works.
This is how I did it:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1338304
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