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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #51  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:41 PM
alphakat alphakat is offline
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Location: Lansdale PA
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW Z3 2.5i
Charmed Life

My 2002 2.5 has definitely lived a charmed life. It has 25,451 miles on it. I became the second owner in Sept 2010. It spent the winter hibernating indoors but that is over. It will be my daily driver for the next 9 months. At this point the car is in almost new condition as you might expect. I love this car.
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  #52  
Old 03-03-2011, 10:30 PM
CaptBimmer CaptBimmer is offline
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Location: Long Island, NY
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW M Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucko521 View Post
Sweet looking car
Thanks man!! These cars just never get old.
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  #53  
Old 03-03-2011, 11:16 PM
alijonny alijonny is offline
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Location: Willowbrook, IL
 
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Posts: 41
Mein Auto: e39 M5, Z3 2.8
I'll play. I bought my Z3 in december 2010, so I have not enjoyed the top down experience yet. (well actually, I did once as a dare by a good friend, lol). Its a 98 2.8L roadster with the special edition black leather with red piping seats. I love the car, sometimes more than my e39 M5....It is unique. the car has 128k currently and looks to have never been touched. It was originally from Texas and made it's way up Illinois to me. Anyway, As I got it I have replaced or added:
-thermostat
-coolant flush
-air filter
-valve cover gasket
-spare tire plastic cover
-spark plugs
-coil boots
-oil change
-seat bushings
-antenna grommet
-3rd brake light bulbs
-Bridgestone re0760's
-rear camber/toe kit
-H&R springs
-hvac bulbs
-window guides
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  #54  
Old 01-02-2012, 10:53 PM
Richman67 Richman67 is offline
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Location: Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 335i/Z3 2.8
Don't mean to necro-post, but:

1998 2.8 Z3. Dark Green beige/beige with the factory hardtop. 48k miles.

Fixed some oil leaks
Did the factory service bulletins (loose tank, speed sensitive volume, etc)
Replaced the front bumper cover after one too many repairs
Fixed the rocking seats
Replaced door handle gaskets
Replaced the antenna grommet

Other than a Dinan Front Strut Brace, and a Blaupunt Toronto in-dash CD player with an aux port (looks completely stock), the car is as delivered. The only thing odd about it is it has the sport seats, which I never see on another Z3 of that year.

The hood could use a re-spray, but other than that, it's in great shape.

Richman
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  #55  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:15 AM
rudyrov rudyrov is offline
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Location: Bothell, WA.
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 196
Mein Auto: 1998 BMW Z3
Smile

No worries....
In November of 2011 I bought a 98 2.8 Z3 with about 91k on the clock.
Mine is also dark Green but has a black top and interior.
I haven't done much except for the rear brakes.
Oil Change due next week as well.
I am getting ready to upgrade the audio system, perhaps speakers to start and then we will see.
I also need to get a set of tires for the rear.

The car is just a great ride and I am so glad that I bought it!

Rudy
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  #56  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:56 AM
crappyattitude1 crappyattitude1 is offline
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Location: Crappyville, TN
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 160
Mein Auto: '99 ////M Roadster
'99 M Roady, 75,000 miles. bought 6 months ago, oil/filter change, new Alpine head unit, new Polk Audio speakers (front and rear 5 1/4"), MTX Thunder 3200 amp and 12" Polk Audio sub in box, in trunk. new antenna grommet, new door handle grommets, new headlight/dimmer switch, and new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S's all around. New front pads last weekend.

New back window when the weather warms a bit.

Need a new console plate where the switches are, in front of the shifter......... any hints where I could find one would be great!!! (Imola Red)

Crappy : )

(Just outside of Nashville)

Last edited by crappyattitude1; 01-05-2012 at 04:40 AM.
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  #57  
Old 01-04-2012, 08:44 PM
Cityconstable Cityconstable is offline
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Location: Boston ma.
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 156
Mein Auto: 1997 z3 2.8
can it really be 15 years old?

built 1/97 approx. 50k miles looks and runs like brand new. hmmm what would a 15 year old kia look like... I have done all the preemptives..ie cooling sys, brakes, rotors, seat bushhings etc. now I start working on my wish list. Full saddle leather interior with silver conchos, twin screw turbo charger and the matching 6 speed manual trans. that should run about $20k and result in 400 hp and a better Z than they make currently. (and still less than a new kia) By the way does anybody else wonder why the current color choice is so bad on new Z's?
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  #58  
Old 01-07-2012, 10:03 AM
tohbi tohbi is offline
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Location: arizona
 
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Posts: 428
Mein Auto: z3 '97 atlanta blue 2.8
400 hp!? in this little car? puts me in mind of the "flexible flyer" kawasakis of the '70s. kawasaki put high horsepower engines in frames that weren't designed for that much power. they tended to spit off riders at high speeds.

people who own the z3m report structural problems with less than 400 hp. while the project sounds really kool, i'm sure i wouldn't do it to this car [we drive apparently identical z3s]. and a six-speed gearbox may be twice as many gears as needed with that much hp in such a small package.

i remember cityconstable advising that roll hoops weren't necessary if one concentrated on being a better driver. i think it was pinecone who advised someone to put their efforts into becoming a better driver instead of looking for increased hp. not trying to rain on your parade but you may not be happy with all the maintenance issues involved with that much power.

but, if you go ahead, we're all behind you. just keep us posted.
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  #59  
Old 01-07-2012, 01:12 PM
Kornknarr Kornknarr is offline
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Location: Sweden
 
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Posts: 93
Mein Auto: -98 Mroadster S50 Estoril
1998 2.8 Roadster with 75 k. Its more or less original, runs like clock. Underneath it looks like it been driven 7k.
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  #60  
Old 01-08-2012, 04:00 PM
lil z3 lil z3 is offline
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Location: Petersburg, PA
 
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Mein Auto: Z3
2000 2.3 w/160,000 miles

My 2000 2.3 has a 160k on it. Yesterday I had a guy come up to me and say what a beautiful car it was. I told him it was eleven years old and he couldn't believe it. For the most part it is a daily driver and it is garaged kept. We have been to Homecoming, Z'fest, Washington DC, the Poconos, Niagara Falls, 4 trips on the Dragon and in 3 weeks we will be at the 24 hrs of Daytona. I have done my share of normal maintenance and more then a few mods. I love this car and I can not see myself without a Z3 in my life. Picture is at Niagara Falls Nov 2011.
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  #61  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:59 PM
Cityconstable Cityconstable is offline
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Location: Boston ma.
 
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Posts: 156
Mein Auto: 1997 z3 2.8
Hoisted by me own petard

ok so I don't have 20k lying around.. Is that any reason not to dream??? Oh yeh... Roll hoops ( and Kia's ) still bite.
hoopless in beantown
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  #62  
Old 01-08-2012, 09:29 PM
turbo10325 turbo10325 is offline
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Location: Austin, Texas
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 26
Mein Auto: Z3M
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob lindquist View Post
Well I started this thread to have the Usual Suspects share the condition of their cars after all these years. What's looks like new, what's wearing out, what breaks all the time, whats the car been like.
Great thread. Helped me dial in my to do list. The car runs like a top. My wife and kids love it. The misses will jump in and take it whenever she gets the chance. She calls it the fun car.

>What looks like new.
In short - the car. Most people are shocked to learn this car is over 10 yrs old.

Maint
Brake pads, air filter, spark plugs and boots, Lubro Moly Fuel Injector and Valve Cleaner, tires (Continental DWS), battery, water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, change out the fluids: oil, brake, power steering, and coolant.

To Do:
Change out diff and tranny fluid, rear shocks and mounts, fuel filter, valve cover gasket, secondary air pump and valve, and keeping an eye on the sub frame.

Repairs:
A new top. Replaced one of the front struts (2 of the flanges were broken - I have to assume the previous owner slid into a curb). Also reinstall one side of the rear sway bar (one of the bolts was missing - a common issue).

Mods:
If I were to do a mod, it would be to upgrade the suspension. The factory springs and sway bars are ok for driving on the street, but the setup is way too soft for the track.

I love this car. Love the way it looks, the performance, that I can do so much of the maint myself - in part due to all the posts on this forum and others like it. Thanks for that!



Last edited by turbo10325; 02-07-2012 at 07:03 AM.
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  #63  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:17 AM
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ghpup ghpup is offline
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Location: Idaho
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 493
Mein Auto: 18 X5d , 14 535xd, 00 MZ3
I bought my '00 MRdstr in April 2003 with only 7k on it. It now has 48K and looks new. Just in the last 2 months, or so, I was asked if it were a new model just in....not hardly....

I've only changed oil, tires and the rear speed sensor, in that order and frequency. Oil is done at least once a year, if not more often, even if I don't drive very far or much. I'm still on the original brakes to my knowledge. My indi service team is amazed at this and wonders if I ever really use them....Truth be told: I don't like to use them, that's the middle peddle...left and right pedals are used a lot.

Besides, my clubs fit in the trunk and I can drive with the top down all year long here. Yes, even when it is in the 20's.
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'00 MRoadster,
'00 528 now in other hands,
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'18 X5 35d In break-in...

Last edited by ghpup; 01-09-2012 at 09:28 AM. Reason: spelling and grammar.
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  #64  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:58 PM
babyZ babyZ is offline
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Location: Dandridge, TN
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 62
Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3
Mr. FredR

Where did you purchase your Camber/Toe Adjustment kit at?
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  #65  
Old 09-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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bob lindquist bob lindquist is offline
A Clean Windshield
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,213
Mein Auto: 2000 Imola M Coupe
Bob Lindquist My original post Update now almost 2 DECADES later!!!

Yes when I started this thread I had the enjoyment for ten years. Now I am coming up on 20 years, hard to believe!!!!


Well the mods continue and the car still rips.


What has gone is many rubber items and the headliner glue. (Almost need to wear a Top hat to hold it up,)


If you haven't lost the little rubber gromet in the accelerator pedal yet, but one and replace it. Loosing the throttle on the highway is scary.


I have the Eurosport cam/intake kit installed. If you have this better check the rubber/plastic reducer in the intake path (3 1/2" to 3") when it goes, again on the highway you loose almost all power. Giant intake leak.


Time for a clutch now. So it's a UUC stage 2 flywheel / M5 clutch kit going in this week.


All in all the car is still great!


Miss all my friends that I met at homecomming all those times we were there in Spartanburg.


Miss good old Ron Styger. We went to Montreal for the F1 race one year and he had a blast. His posts will live on for sure.


Need to do some improvements on the sub and rear coupe speakers. Looking for posts on custom speaker boxes people made for the coupe. Haven't for those old posts yet. But I'm looking. Going to work on a new JL audio speaker and the dynamat for the stock enclusure. Also the speakers in the rear roof just have no base. Thinking of a spacer ring to give the JL audio's I have in there some more breathing room


Well that's it for my 20 year update for the moment.


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2000 Imola Red M Coupe

Dinan suspension, M rotors /Axxis pads
Eurosport Cam Kit, 1-touch lane change,
UUC Stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch,

Zaino polish, Beach Sand
Garys mirror adapter, S54 Oil Cooler,
Trafficpro, A-pillar gauge kit,

seat tilt coupling nuts, spare tire

"life's to short to drink cheap beer"



Last edited by bob lindquist; 09-15-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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  #66  
Old 09-15-2019, 02:11 PM
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KevinR KevinR is offline
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Location: Central Georgia
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 351
Mein Auto: '01 330Ci
I was in Amelia Island, FL this past week and saw a really nice looking Z3 coupe, black with Imola red leather interior parked on Centre Street in downtown Fernandina Beach. It reminded me of what great looking cars they are.

If anyone reads the first page, I solved the check engine light (bad check valve in SAS), I replaced the soft top with a Navy blue one and I finally replaced the bulbs in the cluster. I reset the air bag light and it never came back on. I ended up selling our '97 2.8 after my wife's knee problems got so bad she couldn't easily drive it any more. I wish I could have kept it, because I prefer the roadster without roll hoops, but parking space dictated something had to go. I had a choice of selling the Z3 or my '99 Carrera 4. The Porsche won. The next owner of our car submitted it to Crutchfield after he replaced the stereo system in the car. You can read about that here:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-QZEhT2...-roadster.html

We have a 135i convertible now. It's a lot of fun, but it's not the same as a Z3.
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  #67  
Old 09-15-2019, 03:24 PM
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bob lindquist bob lindquist is offline
A Clean Windshield
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,213
Mein Auto: 2000 Imola M Coupe
Great you checked in. Time Marches on.....





Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinR View Post
I was in Amelia Island, FL this past week and saw a really nice looking Z3 coupe, black with Imola red leather interior parked on Centre Street in downtown Fernandina Beach. It reminded me of what great looking cars they are.

If anyone reads the first page, I solved the check engine light (bad check valve in SAS), I replaced the soft top with a Navy blue one and I finally replaced the bulbs in the cluster. I reset the air bag light and it never came back on. I ended up selling our '97 2.8 after my wife's knee problems got so bad she couldn't easily drive it any more. I wish I could have kept it, because I prefer the roadster without roll hoops, but parking space dictated something had to go. I had a choice of selling the Z3 or my '99 Carrera 4. The Porsche won. The next owner of our car submitted it to Crutchfield after he replaced the stereo system in the car. You can read about that here:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-QZEhT2...-roadster.html

We have a 135i convertible now. It's a lot of fun, but it's not the same as a Z3.
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2000 Imola Red M Coupe

Dinan suspension, M rotors /Axxis pads
Eurosport Cam Kit, 1-touch lane change,
UUC Stage 2 flywheel/M5 clutch,

Zaino polish, Beach Sand
Garys mirror adapter, S54 Oil Cooler,
Trafficpro, A-pillar gauge kit,

seat tilt coupling nuts, spare tire

"life's to short to drink cheap beer"


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  #68  
Old 09-16-2019, 01:07 PM
zed3coupe zed3coupe is offline
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Location: CO
 
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Mein Auto: 1999 BMW M Coupe
Cool thread! My 1999 M coupe has 154k miles still runs great! This is my second Z as I sold my 01 Z3 Coupe a year ago with 212k miles and was running good. These little buggers are solid!
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  #69  
Old 09-17-2019, 01:54 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Location: Louisville, KY
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,806
Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinR View Post
... ended up selling our '97 2.8... wish I could have kept it, because I prefer the roadster without roll hoops...
An early '97 like mine. And I do like the clean look without the hoops. But for whatever margin of safety is provided, I would prefer to have the hoops.

Last edited by vintage42; 09-17-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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  #70  
Old 09-18-2019, 12:34 PM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
Michael
Location: UK
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 640i SE Convertible
Picked up this thread having written something in the past. Well my Daughters Z3 with I sold to her had 186K miles on the clock was still going strong with many original parts, but sadly she was involved in a shunt front and rear, and the bonnet was damaged so the insurance company decided to right the car off as being beyond economic repair as the bonnet was the single largest pressing so is very expensive to repair.
Where I live in the UK I see a number of Z3's and have to say some are in incredible condition, making me think about finding another one as it is a cracking little car!!!
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  #71  
Old 09-18-2019, 03:11 PM
ivoryscoast ivoryscoast is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: '97 Z3
1997 Z3 1.9 ltr roadster


Hi, not looking to hijack anyone here. My first time trying this out, so I'm learning as I go. Please bare with me. I have a 1997 Z3 1.9 liter roadster. I've restored quite a bit of it, but as one would guess, it's a work in progress.
As of late, I've had a "small" clutch problem. You can tell I'm exaggerating, right? To make the "next great novel" shorter, I'll get to the meat of this. I replaced the clutch master and the slave. The first slave failed. Got a new one. Fail. My fault though. Got another. This one worked. Also changed the trans fluid. And yes, I used the correct fluid.
Now, to go a bit further, I spent probably two months doing this work. The trans had to be pulled to remove the garbage left inside the bell housing (aluminum and plastic -- non magnetic), quite a job for a 73 year old geezer working alone, with no trans jack, whoosh!! So, made my own jack, got the beastie as far in the air as I could, and got’er done.
Now I find the trans very hard to go into the gears. I can get it into 1st on a slight roll, as well as second. The higher gears can be reached fairly easily enough if I shift with the RPMs and clutch, (sometimes I have to “double clutch”, but it’ll go into gear. With reverse, I have to shut the engine off, shift into reverse, (not without difficulty) start the engine and go from there. Also need to mention here that the car will actually move in reverse, although very (creepingly, --- can I use that word?) slowly. Then go about getting my gears as above.
I am absolutely NOT looking forward to pulling this trans again, but if’n I gotta ---- well you know. So in taking a “beer break” and thinking it over, I have come to a couple of conclusions, (or maybe that should be “delusions” instead). My first thought is that it may be the slave either isn’t the correct one, (I did compare it to the original and it was the same size and shape, however I don’t recall measuring/comparing the throw rod. ). If that isn’t quite long enough, it may not be “throwing” the release bearing quite long enough and might/ could possibly result in my previously described problem. Also it must be considered that the slave just ain’t working correctly, or I have an internal problem with the clutch pressure plate. Of course there is also the possibility that the new clutch master cylinder is failing. I am certain that the transmission is not at fault. Oh, I almost forgot --- yep! I did bleed the system. In fact, I went through almost a whole gallon of dot 4 fluid. I used that instead of dot 3 because it “repels” water better.
I am hoping here that one of you gentlemen, or ladies, might either come up with a different idea, or maybe come to one of the conclusions that I have. Thanks for taking your time to read this chapter in the “Great American Novel”. Ed.
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  #72  
Old 09-18-2019, 06:40 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Location: Louisville, KY
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,806
Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivoryscoast View Post
... 1997 Z3 1.9... had a "small" clutch problem... replaced the clutch master and the slave. The first slave failed. Got a new one. Fail... Got another... The trans had to be pulled to remove the garbage left inside the bell housing (aluminum and plastic -- non magnetic)... Now I find the trans very hard to go into the gears... the car will actually move in reverse... it must be considered that the slave just ain't working correctly, or I have an internal problem with the clutch pressure plate....
The clutch problem is off topic and should have been a new thread or continued in another thread.

So the clutch is not completely disengaging. That would be a slave and bleed issue.
But how did you know there was non-metallic garbage inside the housing, and where do you think it came from? Did it contaminate the friction plate? You don't say, but then did you replace the clutch? That work could introduce more possible causes.

Did you bleed the slave correctly?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post27417074
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...82&postcount=3

Last edited by vintage42; 09-18-2019 at 06:45 PM.
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  #73  
Old 09-19-2019, 03:20 AM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
Michael
Location: UK
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,946
Mein Auto: BMW 640i SE Convertible
I would also ask if you used BMW original parts, after market parts don't work all that well on these cars and many of the parts from BMW are quite inexpensive so you don't pay much more than aftermarket.
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  #74  
Old 09-19-2019, 11:48 AM
ivoryscoast ivoryscoast is offline
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Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: '97 Z3
Hi, and thanks for the reply. I've seen the posts about removing the slave to bleed. Makes a lot of sense. I had been bleeding with 1) harbor freight vacuum bleeder, then when that wasn't working, 2) peddle pumping. Being "real old school", I thought that was enough. Obviously I have a lot to learn. I will try this, this afternoon and update you on my results.
As for the “non -magnetic” junk, --- well this was the rubber bellows and aluminum cylinder from the slave that exploded inside the bell housing. After much fussing around with flexible “grabbers” , sticky tape, and the like, I finally backed the trans out just enough to clear the bell housing, then I stuck my hand up inside the bottom of the bell housing felt around, and retrieved the bellows and cylinder. The throw rod was retrieved earlier with the use of a magnet.
Incidentally, this might be of interest to someone. When I decided to remove the transmission for a “look” inside the bell housing, I did not plan at any point to pull the trans out all the way and put it on the floor. This last decision was based on my physical strength at this moment. I am 73 years old, my body just ain’t what it used to be, so I used an old trick I used in my youth. I cut some threaded stock to about 12 or so inches. I then gently threaded them through the larger bolt holes from the trans to the bell housing mount. Gently because the threaded stock is SAE thread and the bell housing is Metric. It will fit through. When the stock comes through the hole in the in the bell housing mounting “bracket”, simply put a properly threaded SAE nut on each side of the mounting bracket and the bell housing.
On the bell housing side, you can adjust the SAE nut to the length required to back out the transmission without having it “fall” at an inopportune time as it were. This method will also aid in replacing the trans whether you pull the unit all the way out or not. By the way, I built a bracket out of wood, mounted it to one of my floor jacks and used that to help me back out the transmission from the motor and the bell housing.
Then simply (with a lot of huffing and puffing) pushed the jack and trans back, using the threaded stock as guides. Also, to avoid much struggling, I tightened the nuts on the threaded stock to assist with “walking” the trans back into position. I won’t tell you this was “easy-peezy”, but when you’re on your back under a car without much room, it’s a wonderful thing!
Boy this is tiring me out just proof reading this! Well, now I’m gonna go out an’ “jump” under that wee beastie and take out the slave and bleed it!
Thanks again for your help. I truly appreciate it. I'll send that update ASAP. Ed.
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  #75  
Old 09-19-2019, 02:07 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Location: Louisville, KY
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
... how did you know there was non-metallic garbage inside the housing, and where do you think it came from?..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivoryscoast View Post
.... As for the "non -magnetic" junk, --- well this was the rubber bellows and aluminum cylinder from the slave that exploded inside the bell housing...
It happens when the slave piston is reinstalled and misses the clutch lever in the housing. Like when the slave is removed and inverted for bleeding.

Last edited by vintage42; 09-19-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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