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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-21-2018, 07:48 AM
xXShellshockaXx xXShellshockaXx is offline
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How to replace 2008 535XI Serpentine Belt

Good Morning -

I have a question -

How do you replace the serpentine belt on a 2008 BMW 535XI Sedan.

If any one knows of a DIY step by step guide that would be great. There are a few videos on YouTube - however the language that it is spoken in is foreign - and unintelligible.

I do have an idea of what needs to be done however - I also believe that the fan needs to be taken out to access the belts - however a step by step guide would be great.

Thanks in Advance.

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  #2  
Old 10-21-2018, 09:00 AM
shawnsep shawnsep is offline
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I haven't personally done it but BMW TIS is a great resource for official guides.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cting-element/

Pelican parts also has excellent writeups

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

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Old 10-21-2018, 09:02 AM
xXShellshockaXx xXShellshockaXx is offline
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Thank you - I'll see if I can find any information regarding this specific guide - once I've discovered it I'll be sure to post it on this thread.
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:03 AM
zoom750 zoom750 is offline
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A suggestion: keep the oil cooler lines connected to the oil cooler & just disconnect at the oil filter housing. Have a container ready to catch the oil.

Re: the front inlet pipe. I was unable to rotate the pipe upwards out of the way. Instead, I just pulled the pipe straight back (towards the frront of the car), and moved slightly up or down, to access the pulley bolts. The added benefit was avoiding the difficulty of reinstalling the pipe on the turbo.

Also, I seem to recall having to remove a coolant pipe. If you need to do that, I would suggest draining some of the coolant, perhaps by sucking some out of the expansion tank. That should lessen the amoint of coolant leaked onto the old belt and pulleys.
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:18 AM
xXShellshockaXx xXShellshockaXx is offline
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Yes - as for coolant I'm also replacing the water pump/coolant pump and thermostat at the same time - so I wont have to worry about the coolant leaking -

So far I've changed the oil cooler gasket - which caused the problem in the first place - replacing the belt is a good idea since - there is oil all over the belt from the oil cooler gasket.

I've disconnected the battery which has also died and needs to be replaced -
Took battery to Autozone - (by the way no one in this particular Autozone actually knows anything about automobiles) turns out battery has now died.

My plan thus this far to remove the belt is too:
1. Remove the fan.
2. Remove the oil cooler lines that connect to the radiator.
3. Move the turbo tube out of the way to access the belts.
4. Use a breaker bar to release the tension on the belt - slip belt off; add new belt on.

My question is now - how do you remove the turbo piping in front of the belt to gain easy access to the belts?
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:24 AM
xXShellshockaXx xXShellshockaXx is offline
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The correct name is Engine Charge Air Duct - I've found some information regarding how to take take this off - and it looks like pelicanparts has a write up about this. Please find the link below.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2018, 12:40 PM
zoom750 zoom750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXShellshockaXx View Post
The correct name is Engine Charge Air Duct - I've found some information regarding how to take take this off - and it looks like pelicanparts has a write up about this. Please find the link below.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm
I didn't remove mine. There were too many hoses in the way.. i unclippdd the diverter valve connector near the drivers side headlight, removed the two bolts on the passenger side & unclipped the hose, also on the passenver side. Then releas3 the c-clip in the drivers side of the tube & release it. That sbould give you enough wiggle roo. To pull straight out towards the front of the car and maneuver it to access the bolts/ removw belt. No need to fully remove the duct.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:07 AM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Not sure of your mileage, but it is as important (more important?) to replace the tensioner assembly and idler pulley as it is to replace the oily belt.

As you know, dropping a belt onto the crank pulley can be catastrophic to your engine. This is as much wear on the tensioner as an old belt.

The replacement assembly is about $100 from Continental, including tensioner, idler and belt.

Don't do the belt alone if you're in there.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:43 AM
dgjks6 dgjks6 is offline
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The charge pipe comes in and out on those rear instances when the universe expands for a brief second.

I followed the pelican write up for the belt and it worked fine

For the water pump/thermostat - it is a pain

After doing the oil pan gasket, next time that I change the water pump I am going to loosen the subframe and drop it an inch and see if it helps to get that extra inch.


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