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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-02-2017, 07:06 AM
bmw2fast bmw2fast is offline
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DIY BMW battery replacement and registration

I am looking to replace the battery on my 2006 525i.

From my research it seems that I need to perform battery registration.

Any good guides out there that can help with BMW battery registration procedure?

Also what is the difference between battery registration vs battery coding?

Thank you for reading my quesiton and taking the time to reply.
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  #2  
Old 08-02-2017, 07:16 AM
bmwbob51 bmwbob51 is offline
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Carly

I bought a Carly OB reader and used my iPhone. Basically install the new battery as you normally do and there's some Youtube videos if you have a question on that. Know what the new batteries ratings are and using the Carly pro (extra cost) iPhone app select the battery type and register it. The app will acknowledge new battery showing it's registered and the milage on the old battery. Pretty simple, but you're buying the Carly for $80 and the iPhone pro app for another $70 plus battery registration option for another $15 or so. One time purchases verses paying a dealer for a battery and registration and I assume that's around $500 each time
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2017, 07:47 AM
nicknice91303 nicknice91303 is offline
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I have the same car but it's a 07. And I'm looking to put a new battery in her. What type of battery should I put in? I have the carly and can register it so not worried in that department. Just don't want to go to dealer to get battery lol...

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  #4  
Old 08-02-2017, 01:22 PM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Get an H9 from your nearest Autozone -- FLA is about $150 or so with coupon. Make sure the mfg date sticker on the unit is <6mos old. Battery is unusual and may sit on some suppliers shelves for years, sufating.

Here's an example. http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...20339_333529_0

AGM is always nice if you want to spend the money.

Install it, carefully working with the IBS cable so as not stress it.

Register it with Carly -- takes 5 minutes.
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Last edited by banglenot; 08-02-2017 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 08-04-2017, 05:49 AM
bmw2fast bmw2fast is offline
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Thanks all for the replies. I found these step by step instructions on how to replace the battery and how to use Carly adapter to do the registration.

Article 1: How to replace a BMW battery

Article 2: How to register a BMW battery yourself

Wanted to share these to help other members.
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2017, 06:15 AM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Good stuff.

Just a note. They spec the H8, which is fine, though not the stock size. The H9 is the full size battery for our models. H9 is about 2 inches longer and fits tighter. Some CCA difference, though it's usually not important.

You may find that the battery is a bit shorter in height. That's fine. I wrapped a piece of black pipe foam around the brace when I replaced my BMW battery with a Duralast H9.

H9's are more likely to sit on the shelf, since they're less often installed than the H8. Just look at the date, and whatever you buy, target less than 6 months on the shelf.

And, of course, register them. I was a bit puzzled at the reference to "register and code" the battery. It reads like two items, when it's actually just one. When you register it, you're coding ecu's to do so.

Again, thanks for the reference.

There's a long battery replacement thread on this E60 forum. Can you search it and post the reference in there? Could be helpful for others.
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2017, 07:49 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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Coding, not "battery coding", is required if you change the battery type.....FLA==>AGM or vice versa, or change the AH rating.
My 5/2009 build 2010 E60 was delivered with an FLA battery. I suspect earlier models were similarly built. I just replaced it in 11/2016, getting 7 years, 6 months use. I put in an FLA from Wal-Mart. Of course owners with '06 & '07's are likely on their second battery replacement, so be sure to check the battery type you currently have.
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2019, 06:59 AM
alaskasail alaskasail is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Coding, not "battery coding", is required if you change the battery type.....FLA==>AGM or vice versa, or change the AH rating.
My 5/2009 build 2010 E60 was delivered with an FLA battery. I suspect earlier models were similarly built. I just replaced it in 11/2016, getting 7 years, 6 months use. I put in an FLA from Wal-Mart. Of course owners with '06 & '07's are likely on their second battery replacement, so be sure to check the battery type you currently have.
2008 BMW 535xi Sport Wagon

Is there a way to check the old battery history/condition without registering it? I have the Carly Pro and would like to check the condition of the battery with out removing and testing it. I started the registration process, but aborted because i was worried that if I screwed it up somehow, I'd have to take the car in for psychoanalysis. I looked at the Carly manual and turned on "slow" communicating", but again, i wasn't quite sure of the results.
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Old 10-31-2019, 11:50 AM
zoom750 zoom750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskasail View Post
2008 BMW 535xi Sport Wagon

Is there a way to check the old battery history/condition without registering it? I have the Carly Pro and would like to check the condition of the battery with out removing and testing it. I started the registration process, but aborted because i was worried that if I screwed it up somehow, I'd have to take the car in for psychoanalysis. I looked at the Carly manual and turned on "slow" communicating", but again, i wasn't quite sure of the results.
You could get something like this to check your battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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  #10  
Old 10-31-2019, 12:48 PM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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Most batteries have a date code of some sort. May be a sticker or stamped into top of one of the terminals. I would not re-register an old battery, this will likely create more problems than it solves. ISTA has an Energy Diagnostic test that will report the SOC ..."State of Charge".... of your battery for the last 5 days. Why do you suspect a battery problem? If in doubt, put a 10 amp AGM charger on battery over night.
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2019, 06:32 AM
alaskasail alaskasail is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Most batteries have a date code of some sort. May be a sticker or stamped into top of one of the terminals. I would not re-register an old battery, this will likely create more problems than it solves. ISTA has an Energy Diagnostic test that will report the SOC ..."State of Charge".... of your battery for the last 5 days. Why do you suspect a battery problem? If in doubt, put a 10 amp AGM charger on battery over night.
Thanks Zoom750. That looks like and interesting tester, but without a load, I'm not sure how it would work.

I looked all over that battery and couldn't find a manufacture date or installation date. So I charged it up with an AGM charger and will put a load on it today to see how it holds up. I did not re-register the old battery. As above, I did replace the battery and entered all the data for changing the battery.

I'm nervous that this may be a different problem altogether. The car always started, but would flash the system causing all sorts of faults to show up, the clock zeroing out and who knows what else. Once the car starts, everything seems normal, but I have to enter date/time. This looks like classic low-voltage to me.

No prob with the new battery..... yet.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2019, 01:29 PM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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If you put in a new battery then you need to register it. This resets the charging profile to something suitable for a new, un-sulfated battery. The clock reset is result of an undercharged battery. Undercharging could be from a parasitic load when engine is off, a battery near the end of it's life, short trips or a charging system problem.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2019, 09:22 AM
alaskasail alaskasail is offline
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Update - Battery swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
If you put in a new battery then you need to register it. This resets the charging profile to something suitable for a new, un-sulfated battery. The clock reset is result of an undercharged battery. Undercharging could be from a parasitic load when engine is off, a battery near the end of it's life, short trips or a charging system problem.
The new battery is installed and everything is still working fine. I "changed battery" in the Carly app and registered it. All showed success, but the mileage figures remained unchanged. I've asked Carly support for help on that and will report when they respond.

HOWEVER

I bought a "Battery analyzer" on Amazon and it was just a voltmeter so I put the battery in my dump truck with a 460 V8 and ran the starter (sans coil wire) for a good spell. The battery still shows 12.6 volts.

The reason I replaced the battery was because I was getting low voltage problems as you mention. The Carly app Faults show this also with some 15 faults.

I cannot find a manufacturing date *anywhere* on the old battery which looks new (it was in the car when I bought it ). Connections were spotless.

All of this leads me to think that there is a parasitic electrical drain somewhere. Is this a common problem? If so, what is the source?

Since the old battery is an AGM, I don't suspect a faulty plate (possibly intermittent). This happened to me once on a motorcycle: full volts, no amps. The "Dump Truck" test would suggest a robust battery.

OK.... I'm thinking out loud here. Sorry. I'm just puzzled by all this and a little nervous that I have another problem.

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  #14  
Old 11-08-2019, 07:35 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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Third photo, L4 is the date code....Dec '14, might be November if they skip the letter I. L is 12th letter of the alphabet. 80AH is a very small battery. Should be 92AH. The voltmeter is a good diagnostic tool. Leave it plugged in to the cig lighter and monitor system voltage as you drive. It will help you rule out an intermittent charging problem.

Last edited by pshovest; 11-08-2019 at 07:37 AM.
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