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Old 04-15-2019, 07:12 AM
Happyeaglesfan Happyeaglesfan is offline
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2007 328XI questions?

I bought my son a 2007 BMW 328XI for his 16 birthday. It runs good but had a few issues that I knew about when I purchased.

First... it had a valve cover leak. Turns out the valve cover was cracked. This is just about finished. I found a highly recommended INDY that I am having do this job.

Second... I want to change the trans fluid and filter. This may have to wait a few months.


Third... The INDY informed me that it may need new rear shocks bc one is starting to leak. What shocks work well on these cars. I do not want to break the bank but want a decent shock. Also can I just replace the rear shocks and leave the front alone for now? Is it best to do all 4 at the same time?

Fouth, and hopefully finally.... INDY thinks it may need a front passenger control arm. Can I just replace the one control arm?

In short where is a good place to get these parts?

Thanks
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:30 AM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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You may do well to use it as a means of teaching your son (and yourself) how to fix things on a car.

All of the items you listed are typical DIY's on this model.

VCG: About $50 gasket plus 3 hours DIY. Add another $30 for the other two gaskets that should be replaced.

Tranny: Assuming you have the GM and not the ZF, it's a straightforward DIY, a little more complex fix. 6 bottles of dextron plus about a $50 filter. Steel pan can be reused. Plastic pan means you have a ZF.

Shocks: Bilstein B4's are fine. You can get them for about $60- each, plus another $40 or so for related items. Not sure of your model has the separately mounted springs, but if so it's a 3 hour DIY.

Arms: You should replace control arms in pairs.

Again, hired repairs add up fast. The VCG has <$100 in gaskets, but up to $1K in labor from some sources.

Read the attached.
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File Type: pdf So You Just Bought an E90 V 1.2.pdf (1.16 MB, 10 views)
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:57 AM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
I bought my son a 2007 BMW 328XI for his 16 birthday...
Second... I want to change the trans fluid and filter. This may have to wait a few months.
Third... The INDY informed me that it may need new rear shocks bc one is starting to leak.
Fouth, and hopefully finally.... INDY thinks it may need a front passenger control arm. Can I just replace the one control arm? In short where is a good place to get these parts?
A 12-year-old 328xi is a great first car for your Son, IF you/he do the maintenance yourselves. Hope you can get him interested in DIY. If he's into computers and you have a laptop, maybe best place to start is having him get familiar with INPA or ISTA (diagnostics), or NCS Dummy (coding).

If you have to pay a shop to properly maintain the vehicle, it could cost you as much in the next two years as you originally paid for it, or else it will NOT be properly maintained. Parts prices are reasonable. Labor costs, including PROPER DIAGNOSIS (so you don't just throw parts at it), are what makes keeping any out-of-warranty car in shape expensive. I do my own maintenance and use INPA for diagnostics, and it has cost me less than $400 in the last two years to replace plugs, fluids & filters, with another ~ $100 to update my toolchest to include new E-sockets, Torx bits & Hex sockets for specific BMW maintenance.

If you have NOT already done so, I would ask the Indy to use INPA or equivalent to read Fault Codes in ALL Modules, and to connect to EACH Module which has a fault saved in memory and read any Fault Code Definitions, Fault Details, and any Freeze Frame Data. Ask him to save (PrtSc/PrintScreen, Paste to Paint or other photo editor, & Save As in jpg format) any such fault screens, and copy them to a thumb drive you provide. In INPA, there is also "HistorySpeicher" or Memory History data which will assist in knowing what faults have occurred in the past. Better yet, download INPA and learn how to do that yourself. Much of the information in INPA is in GERMAN, but Google Translate and this Forum can help to decipher.

If the GM GA6L45R Transmission Module has a "Fluid Wear Fault", then the fluid (Dexron VI) and filter should be changed soon. While you are doing that, you should also change the Transfer Case Fluid as well, as that will soon set a similar Fluid Wear Fault Code if it has NOT already done so. Since transmission replacement can cost nearly as much as was paid for the car (there ARE cheaper alternatives) I would move transmission fluid & filter to the top of your TO DO LIST, particularly if there are any shift issues or torque converter issues.

I attach a pdf which contains links to many E9x References, such as TIS Online Service Manual, Bentley Manual in searchable pdf format (free download), BimmerGeeks K+DCAN cable for $45 & free downloads of BMW Standard Tools (which include INPA & NCS Dummy) and Rheingold (ISTA), along with RealOEM.com online Parts Catalog, and a number of online Vendors for parts.

If you have Amazon Prime, you will find that you can get many BMW parts at competitive prices QUICKLY, and you can find the part just by entering the BMW part# in the search box (get the part# using RealOEM.com). For "Genuine BMW" parts, "getbmwparts.com" (Tischer BMW in Silver Spring, MD) has the best prices I've found, and they ship. Best place to get Dexron VI transmission fluid (BMW spec) and Transfer case fluid; also BMW trim items like replacement Roundels on hood, rear lid or wheels, floor mats, etc.

2) Trans Fluid & Filter; Transfer Case Fluid: I changed my transmission Fluid & Filter about a year ago, using Dexron VI that I purchased from "getbmwparts.com" which is BMW part# 83220397114. Since draining the pan leaves about 4 quarts of the 10-quart capacity in the torque converter, cooler & lines, I decided best to use "Genuine BMW" fluid, and Dexron VI is expensive from ANY supplier. I got TWO 4-liter jugs at a total cost of $89 for the fluid. Filter & Gasket I got from AutohausAZ, now $40:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MZ-24152357284

Transfer Case Fluid (Genuine BMW) from "getbmwparts.com" while you are at it: BMW Part# 83222409710, $41 for 1 liter (.52 liter capacity, so that's enough left over for topping up for the next 10 years ;-) Vehicle must be level and elevated (4 ramps, or 2 ramps & 2 jackstands) and takes 14mm hex socket, or stud removed from socket, to get the fill plug out. It's DIY, but get some specific tips/advice before tackling. Same for trans fluid/filter replacment. There ARE some tricks that make it DIY "Do-able".

3) Rear Shocks: My 2007 328xi E91 has original Bilstein shocks, and there are NO leaks, just issues with the cylindrical splash shields slipping down when car is jacked up, which MAY lead to piston seal damage eventually. I would NOT replace the rear shocks until there is a rattle/ clunk in the mount, or there is no longer any damping function (affected side bounces), and then I would just replace BOTH the rear shocks with Bilstein replacments. Make sure you understand all the mounting pieces BEFORE ordering. Here is an example of the rear shocks - the standard Bilsteins are $68 each:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c...ber?s=d&page=1

4) RF Control Arm (Forward?): I assume you are talking about the "Forward" RF Control Arm? Here is an example of the range of parts & prices available, from $33 to $65 each:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c...arm?s=d&page=1

I would suggest NOT worrying about replacing that immediately UNLESS there is some looseness in the front suspension/steering, and making sure you have examined the part to see WHAT has failed & why. For instance, if it is the Forward Arm with Ball joint, and the ball joint is sloppy, likely the rubber gaiter/seal has failed allowing water in/ grease out. Examine the opposite member for similar gaiter damage/failure.

Please let us know how it works out, and seek DIY tips for diagnosis or maintenance,
George
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:15 AM
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oembimmerparts oembimmerparts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
I bought my son a 2007 BMW 328XI for his 16 birthday. It runs good but had a few issues that I knew about when I purchased.

First... it had a valve cover leak. Turns out the valve cover was cracked. This is just about finished. I found a highly recommended INDY that I am having do this job.

Second... I want to change the trans fluid and filter. This may have to wait a few months.


Third... The INDY informed me that it may need new rear shocks bc one is starting to leak. What shocks work well on these cars. I do not want to break the bank but want a decent shock. Also can I just replace the rear shocks and leave the front alone for now? Is it best to do all 4 at the same time?

Fouth, and hopefully finally.... INDY thinks it may need a front passenger control arm. Can I just replace the one control arm?

In short where is a good place to get these parts?

Thanks
Cracked and or leaking valve covers are pretty common,Bilstein shocks offer a pretty good ride and are close to stock (assuming you go the touring model shocks)

Max
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:35 PM
satyaban satyaban is offline
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There is plenty of good advice in those comments. I own a 2008 328Xi that I paid 14,000 dollars for it more than 2 1/2 years ago and other than tires, a battery, ignition coils, and all the regular maintenance is all it has cost me nothing. No parts failures causing major expense and has not failed me. I was telling someone today I love driving the car as much today as when I bought it. I think off the top of my head it had 104,000 miles on it when I got it and has 108,000 now.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:52 AM
Happyeaglesfan Happyeaglesfan is offline
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Thanks for all the advice and info.

The control arms, according to the INDY, is sloppy. It is the passenger side and I am thinking the forward. INDY said it is allowing the wheel to move a little to much under braking. Now that he mentioned it I do feel it when driving and when breaking. The car wants to pull to the passenger side. I am thinking of replacing both the passenger and Driver side Forward control arms first.

For the Control arms I am finding 4 different brands at AutohausAZ and wanted to know your thoughts on them
1. Delphi Control Arm - 51.32 Each
2. Febi-Bilstein Control Arm - 64.72 Each
3. Karlyn Crontol Arm - 36.93 Each
4. URO - 32.73 Each

Also is there a place I can run the VIN to find out what Tranny I have to order the filter and fluid?

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:40 AM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
Also is there a place I can run the VIN to find out what Tranny I have to order the filter and fluid?
Aside from a very limited number of early run 2007 models, all 328s have a GM transmission. However, as you have a 2007, it's not a guarantee.

Better than a VIN decoder would be to run the last 7 of your VIN through realoem.com and check the transmission section there. They use the manufacturing date as part of their part determination and should pick up the transmission model if you have an early production car. It will also call out the BMW recommended fluid.
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Last edited by Zooks527; 04-17-2019 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:55 AM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
...is there a place I can run the VIN to find out what Tranny I have to order the filter and fluid?
Sometimes Online VIN Decoder sites do NOT work. Safest way to make SURE you have the GM6 transmission instead of ZF is to get the front on ramps, drop the rear splash shield and examine the Transmission Sump. If it is the GM6, it will look like this:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-sump/PO6bXm3

The ZF sump looks quite different. There are also two labels that identify the trans as GM:
1) on Left side of transmission housing, above the sump, rearward of shift lever;
2) Transmission Fluid Part# label on rear of pan as per attached photo of my 3/14/2007 build date 2007 328xi E91. Photo also attached identifying Drain & Fill Plugs.

George
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:05 PM
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oembimmerparts oembimmerparts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
Thanks for all the advice and info.

The control arms, according to the INDY, is sloppy. It is the passenger side and I am thinking the forward. INDY said it is allowing the wheel to move a little to much under braking. Now that he mentioned it I do feel it when driving and when breaking. The car wants to pull to the passenger side. I am thinking of replacing both the passenger and Driver side Forward control arms first.

For the Control arms I am finding 4 different brands at AutohausAZ and wanted to know your thoughts on them
1. Delphi Control Arm - 51.32 Each
2. Febi-Bilstein Control Arm - 64.72 Each
3. Karlyn Crontol Arm - 36.93 Each
4. URO - 32.73 Each

Also is there a place I can run the VIN to find out what Tranny I have to order the filter and fluid?

Thanks
If you can swing it on the arms, Try to stick with Lemforder which is OEM or Febi. We have sold a ton of each of those and you should be good with either of those 2 brands.
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:30 PM
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banglenot banglenot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happyeaglesfan View Post
Thanks for all the advice and info.

The control arms, according to the INDY, is sloppy. It is the passenger side and I am thinking the forward. INDY said it is allowing the wheel to move a little to much under braking. Now that he mentioned it I do feel it when driving and when breaking. The car wants to pull to the passenger side. I am thinking of replacing both the passenger and Driver side Forward control arms first.

For the Control arms I am finding 4 different brands at AutohausAZ and wanted to know your thoughts on them
1. Delphi Control Arm - 51.32 Each
2. Febi-Bilstein Control Arm - 64.72 Each
3. Karlyn Crontol Arm - 36.93 Each
4. URO - 32.73 Each

Also is there a place I can run the VIN to find out what Tranny I have to order the filter and fluid?

Thanks
Edited to refer to control arms, not thrust arms!

Everyone has an opinion of these, as do I.

OK, time for a discussion on BMW vs. OEM parts.

After the BMW branded part, the best solution is to go with the OEM brand that was built for the car and branded by BMW as it's own.

I only buy OEM, and buy BMW only when OEM isn't available. IMHO, when an OEM is available, BMW are overpriced for no added value.

OEM for the XI control arms (called a wishbone in the parts manual), #15 on the attached. (Note this is my '07 328XI, but the structure is the same.)

The OEM for this unit is Lemfoerder. The BMW part (@FCP Euro) is $99. The Lemfoerder OEM is $69. They are essentially the identical part. This difference has built an entire parts industry that identifies and sells OEM parts alongside BMW parts.

I only use Lemfoerder on my suspensions. I only buy from established parts houses, and never buy on Amazon unless it's an known parts house selling through Amazon.

OK, to your choices on Autohaus. None of these are OEM. That said, the manufacturers have been buying each other out, meaning formerly separate houses are doing multiple things. So the sources are getting muddled over time.

The view on multiple forums is that Lems are the best, by far, since they are the usual BMW OEM; TRW is good (also an OEM, but less often), Febi is not used as an OEM to my knowledge, and URO or Karlyn should be avoided.

The reason is that the heart of a control arm is the rubber bushing, and they fail earlier on cheaper products like URO and Karlyn.

One more note -- once I find the OEM part, I go for the best price. Oembimmerparts, FCPEuro, Autohaus and about 4 others are well establish houses with good reps. Most make a point of BMW, OEM and then one or two "value" sources for their more common suspension parts.

IMHO, and I'm sure others will have other own views.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0740
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Last edited by banglenot; 04-17-2019 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:54 PM
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Also, the quickest way to see what tranny you have is to look underneath the car, after removing the belly pan. The GM has a silver metal pan; the ZF has a black plastic pan with ribs.

You can call your local BMW parts office and ask with the VIN. They're usually right.

The GM is easier and cheaper on fluid changes, since it uses Dextron VI, rather than the ZF, which uses LG6 or Shell spec 1374.5
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Last edited by banglenot; 04-17-2019 at 02:56 PM.
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