Rear Supension Overhaul + Subframe Bushings - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-12-2019, 12:13 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Question Rear Supension Overhaul + Subframe Bushings

I promise I've tried to search for info regarding my question, but can't find anything speaking directly to it.

After completing (successfully, I think) a full* front suspension rebuild, I think it only highlights the need for me to also do the rear. The car still feels a bit "rumble-y", particularly when the airstream in front of it is disturbed (ex. when trailing in traffic), and it does feel like it is emanating from the rear.

When I last rotated tires, after admittedly waiting too long to rotate after getting a new set, I noticed cupping on the rear tires...tires that are now on the front and have been for the last appx 6000 miles. I expect at a minimum the shocks are worn, allowing the rear tires to "bounce" and "scrub" down the road, resulting in the cupping. Will need new tires soon and figure I best go thru the rear end to avoid running thru the next set prematurely.

*"Full" means:
- struts, including new mounts/bearings, "shims", and bump stops
- tie rods & steering rack boots
- thrust arms
- control arms
- sway bar links
- sway bar bushings

On to the question....as I compile my list of goods for the rear suspension, is there any reason to consider doing rear subframe bushings at the same time as the rest of the rear suspension?

What I mean by that is....is there any significant overlap in the two jobs that make it sensible to do both at the same time versus just waiting to do the subframe bushings? Or they really two entire separate projects?

On a 175k mile car that I'm going thru the trouble of doing all the suspension, I'm sure I will want to do the subframe bushings...eventually...but I think I'd prefer to do just the rear guide links, control arms, integral links, ball joints, sway bar bushings, and shocks now and save subframe bushings for a little later.

Side question...are there bushings for the steering rack that are replaceable on these cars? I wouldn't say that I feel sloppiness in the steering (definitely not slack up thru the column like the rack itself is having issues), but over certain bumps something doesn't feel quite as solid as I think it should having just redone the entire front end.

Hopefully, it isn't just the "factory replacement" Sachs giving subpar performance. I usually "upgrade" when replacing stuff like struts, but I opted to save some coin this time and went Sachs vs Bilstein.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-12-2019 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 12:35 PM
CSMBlack-540i CSMBlack-540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
I promise I've tried to search for info regarding my question, but can't find anything speaking directly to it.
Did you search on Google which results in a nice DIY on Bf.c?

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...eplacement-DIY

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...heel-Alignment

Generally, the subframe doesn't overlap with the rest of the rear full overhaul

As long as you don't alter the eccentric bolt or mark the bolt beforehand, you should be ok. As that's generally the only adjust in the back anyway.

But, you might as well inspect the subframe bushings while under there so you can verify the current condition and plan accordingly for replacement.

Last edited by CSMBlack-540i; 08-12-2019 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 12:46 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Originally Posted by CSMBlack-540i View Post
Did you search on Google which results in a nice DIY on Bf.c?

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...eplacement-DIY

Generally, the subframe doesn't overlap with the rest of the rear full overhaul

As long as you don't alter the eccentric bolt or mark the bolt beforehand, you should be ok. As that's generally the only adjust in the back anyway.
Yes, I found DIYs (including the one you linked, even though I have a touring)...and, yes, it did appear that they were quite independent of one another...but having never touched the rear suspension of this particular car/chassis before, I wasn't sure if I was missing something in the DIYs that may be obvious to others more familiar that may (or may not) indicate whether there is reason to tackle them at the same time.

Looks like you concur with my thoughts coming in....one doesn't really have any overlap with the other.

Not sure I'm following your comment on the eccentric bolt, however. Won't I have to mark it, remove it, and replace/re-install it when I do the guide link?

And, yes, I certainly do plan to do subframe bushings, but I've learned over time that sometimes it makes more sense to break these projects up into smaller jobs (unless there is significant overlap), especially when it is your DD and you'd prefer to not be without it for too long...even though I do have another vehicle I can drive.

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Old 08-12-2019, 01:03 PM
CSMBlack-540i CSMBlack-540i is offline
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Not sure I'm following your comment on the eccentric bolt, however. Won't I have to mark it, remove it, and replace/re-install it when I do the guide link?

.
If you re-read the link I posted to Cam's CN90/CNN's alignment you will notice the eccentric bolt is the only thing you can use to adjust rear toe and camber. This is also mentioned in 320-23 of the Bentley Service manual

So, the point being anytime you don't what the rear alignment all screwed up before you can get to an alignment shop, mark the location before removing it. This keeps it as close to pre overhaul settings as possible.

Otherwise, if you don't mark it beforehand you'll wind up in a situation where you'll say "Damn, why is my alignment so off, i forgot to mark the eccentric bolt before removing it"

So, yes. definitely mark it before replacing your guide links

Last edited by CSMBlack-540i; 08-12-2019 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:51 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Rear Supension Overhaul + Subframe Bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSMBlack-540i View Post
If you re-read the link I posted to Cam's CN90/CNN's alignment you will notice the eccentric bolt is the only thing you can use to adjust rear toe and camber. This is also mentioned in 320-23 of the Bentley Service manual

So, the point being anytime you don't what the rear alignment all screwed up before you can get to an alignment shop, mark the location before removing it. This keeps it as close to pre overhaul settings as possible.

Otherwise, if you don't mark it beforehand you'll wind up in a situation where you'll say "Damn, why is my alignment so off, i forgot to mark the eccentric bolt before removing it"

So, yes. definitely mark it before replacing your guide links


Oh, ok. For sure, Iíll definitely mark the bolt, though Iíve learned by working on my Armada suspension that it still wonít be anywhere close after putting it back even with marking. Not sure if thatís just how it goes with these jobs or if Iím just terrible at putting it back together close.

Maybe I shouldnít have assumed it went without saying, but after rear suspension rebuild Iím getting new tires and alignment. Just need to get it close enough after the work to safely get it to the shop. Already had the front aligned and rear checked when I did the front suspension. Had state inspection done today and, while they passed it, they did tell me what I already knew: needs tires soon due to irregular wear.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-12-2019 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:10 PM
CSMBlack-540i CSMBlack-540i is offline
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Not sure if that's just how it goes with these jobs or if I'm just terrible at putting it back together close.
That all depends on how worn the old parts being replaced are. If you mark the eccentric bolt and put in new control arms, it will alter the toe/camber slightly because the eccentric bolt is set up for the worn parts since you just got an alignment after front overhaul.

The whole point is that it's not so far off that you can get to a nearby alignment shop without wearing out the tires unnecessarily. More so if you just put on new tires recently. In your case, you're replacing tires shortly after this so less of an issues and almost moot.

Can't speak to an Armada or how it's setup.


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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Maybe I shouldn't have assumed it went without saying, but after rear suspension rebuild I'm getting new tires and alignment. .
That's why when I rebuilt my suspension, I did front and back at the same time and replaced my tires right after the alignment so it was all done at once.

With your situation, you're paying for an alignment twice in a very short time. IF you did rear suspension 1st and then front, you could've gotten away with just one alignment and used the money saved towards one of those new tires.

Last edited by CSMBlack-540i; 08-12-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:22 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Originally Posted by CSMBlack-540i View Post
That all depends on how worn the old parts being replaced are. If you mark the eccentric bolt and put in new control arms, it will alter the toe/camber slightly because the eccentric bolt is set up for the worn parts since you just got an alignment after front overhaul.

The whole point is that it's not so far off that you can get to a nearby alignment shop without wearing out the tires unnecessarily. More so if you just put on new tires recently. In your case, you're replacing tires shortly after this so less of an issues and almost moot.

Can't speak to an Armada or how it's setup.




That's why when I rebuilt my suspension, I did front and back at the same time and replaced my tires right after the alignment so it was all done at once.

With your situation, you're paying for an alignment twice in a very short time. IF you did rear suspension 1st and then front, you could've gotten away with just one alignment and used the money saved towards one of those new tires.


Lifetime alignment at Firestone. Already purchased and used once to align the front. Iíve been generally happy with the outcome on the Armada and how they havenít given me crap about hauling it in there every couple weeks when I was going thru the suspension on it.

If for some reason I doubt the work on the BMW and eventually take it to the stealer for a one time shot once all the work is complete (and I would still bet the stealer isnít doing it by the book), the $150 I spent on the lifetime deal will still be worth it to keep it aligned within published spec while I go thru the suspension on the E39.


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Old 08-12-2019, 03:00 PM
CSMBlack-540i CSMBlack-540i is offline
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Lifetime alignment at Firestone. Already purchased and used once to align the front.

If for some reason I doubt the work on the BMW and eventually take it to the stealer for a one time shot once all the work is complete (and I would still bet the stealer isn't doing it by the book), the $150 I spent on the lifetime deal will still be worth it to keep it aligned within published spec while I go thru the suspension on the E39.
If you're not happy with the Firestone alignment, I'd ask around for reputable local shops that have Hunter Hawkeye and/or John Bean Imaging Alignment systems.

https://www.johnbean.com/en-us/c/wheel-aligners

https://www.hunter.com/alignment-systems/hawkeye-elite

Local regional subforums are a good start and you can always call the Hunter/John Bean regional salesperson for recommendations on competent local shops they sell too. Sometimes, the same shop names come up on both resources when you ask.

Between local shops and stealers, any alignment is only as good as the operator's knowledge.

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Old 08-12-2019, 05:25 PM
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Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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ball joints intergral links, upper and lower arms, inner bushings,

(that is what a suspension build is imo)

struts is what i consider a different part, If you want my opinion do it like i did it.. work from the top down

first do struts and mounts (job #1)
then do arms and bushings (job #2) alignment required
then do sway (job #3)
then last do balljoints and Intergal links (final mission)

4 steps is how i did the rear.. over the corse of a few months.. that was almost 60k ago.. im @ 250,000 miles now

Inside lower control arms bushings.. use power-flex urethane bushings (you could do the sway if you want.. BUt i didn't find that necessary in other builds) *unless your going for "race car"

when i did the front same pattern, struts and tops first.. then arms and bushings + alignment then sway bar

Ive yet to ever do subframe bushings on any bmw (for the exception of people who wrecked there car with trying to drift and ate curb )
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Last edited by Burning2nd; 08-12-2019 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:39 AM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
ball joints intergral links, upper and lower arms, inner bushings,

(that is what a suspension build is imo)

struts is what i consider a different part, If you want my opinion do it like i did it.. work from the top down

first do struts and mounts (job #1)
then do arms and bushings (job #2) alignment required
then do sway (job #3)
then last do balljoints and Intergal links (final mission)

I guess somehow growing up I've been conditioned to obsess over alignment and tire wear to the point that if I touch *anything* close to suspension I feel the need to have alignment done. In particular I feel that now because I'm in need of tires soon, the current set having gone thru its useful life probably before it should have due to worn suspension components (though not misalignment, as the Firestone printout claims I was solidly in spec on the rear when I rolled it in there)..30k miles right now on these Conti DWS06's and only a couple thousand left (maybe) before I start getting a little nervous about them. I'm not scrooge about tires, however, particularly when it is a size that isn't obscenely expensive.

Summary is...I'm all about your plan, as I don't mind breaking this up into parts due to expense and time available to work on the car in the near term. Just wasn't sure if I could feel good about wear on the new tires I'm about to get if the only thing I do on the rear right now are the shocks (I have a Touring with SLS, so I don't think they are technically "struts," are they?). Frequency of alignment isn't a problem. I can run it to Firestone whenever and they'll do it on the liftetime deal. More about whether new struts but old linkages/arms is potential for early, irregular wear again.

Also, how important is replacing the rear shock mount if mine look okay? Typically, I replace it by default. I just can't seem to find the part searching by RealOEM part#. Even FCP shows only the OE BMW part ($100) and it is on backorder.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-13-2019 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 05:47 AM
Cichlids Cichlids is offline
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Im currently doing this. Ive completely rooted out the entire front and rear suspension with the rear subframe too. I bought the tool from ecs tuning but it turns out that it was advertised incorrectly and note i need to get my coworker to machine a new disc to pull the subframe bushings out.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:49 PM
Cichlids Cichlids is offline
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Just got my machinist at work to build this disc so i could modify the tool i got from ecs tuning to pull the bushing out
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:09 AM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Also, how important is replacing the rear shock mount if mine look okay? Typically, I replace it by default. I just can't seem to find the part searching by RealOEM part#. Even FCP shows only the OE BMW part ($100) and it is on backorder.
Color me guilty of looking only at FCP before commenting on this. Found a pair of Febi rear mounts for wagon on eBay. Obscenely cheap compared to OE prices I've seen, but I don't automatically assume that makes these garbage given the reputable Febi/Bilstein brand name.

Could be counterfeit, I suppose, but I'll take the chance.
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Old 08-19-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Lifetime alignment at Firestone. Already purchased and used once to align the front. Iíve been generally happy with the outcome on the Armada and how they havenít given me crap about hauling it in there every couple weeks when I was going thru the suspension on it.

If for some reason I doubt the work on the BMW and eventually take it to the stealer for a one time shot once all the work is complete (and I would still bet the stealer isnít doing it by the book), the $150 I spent on the lifetime deal will still be worth it to keep it aligned within published spec while I go thru the suspension on the E39.


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My local FireStone won't do an alignment on my e39. Told me the car is not in their system. I've asked different people there multiple times. If you find a FireStone to align your e39 and provide the lifetime alignment warranty you've found an anomaly. Better get it in writing.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:10 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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My local FireStone won't do an alignment on my e39. Told me the car is not in their system. I've asked different people there multiple times. If you find a FireStone to align your e39 and provide the lifetime alignment warranty you've found an anomaly. Better get it in writing.
I guess my local Firestone is more flexible. I also had read/heard that they wouldn't touch any car or truck with a suspension modified away from factory setup, but they've aligned and re-aligned my Armada multiple times (multiple because I kept modifying the suspension..lol!). That one is modified in two different ways: I removed the air leveling suspension and I lifted it.

As for the E39, they gave me a printout that clearly says at the top it is for a 2003 525i Touring Wagon.

Quote:
first do struts and mounts (job #1)
then do arms and bushings (job #2) alignment required
then do sway (job #3)
then last do balljoints and Intergal links (final mission)

4 steps is how i did the rear.. over the corse of a few months.. that was almost 60k ago.. im @ 250,000 miles now
Just got the shock mounts and shocks (Bilstein 24-060967) in the mail today. Will be installing within the next couple days.

I'd like to get tires soon, but not sure I can hold out long enough to get thru all four steps before I need them (unless I really step up the efforts to do the complete overhaul).

What is a bigger factor for tire wear in the rear? Shocks or control arms and ball joints?

Do you think if I put tires on after only the shocks that I could be somewhat confident that I won't irregularly wear them within a couple thousand miles?
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:17 PM
CSMBlack-540i CSMBlack-540i is offline
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Originally Posted by crazy4trains View Post
My local FireStone won't do an alignment on my e39. Told me the car is not in their system. I've asked different people there multiple times. If you find a FireStone to align your e39 and provide the lifetime alignment warranty you've found an anomaly. Better get it in writing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
I guess my local Firestone is more flexible. I also had read/heard that they wouldn't touch any car or truck with a suspension modified away from factory setup, but they've aligned and re-aligned my Armada multiple times (multiple because I kept modifying the suspension..lol!).
Not a surprise since Firestone is a franchise that is independently owned and operated. They can do whatever they want. Like I said above, an alignment is only as good as the operator behind the machine they have. They don't all buy the same machines hence the different outcomes.

Last edited by CSMBlack-540i; 08-22-2019 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:48 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Not a surprise since Firestone is a franchise that is independently owned and operated. They can do whatever they want. Like I said above, an alignment is only as good as the operator behind the machine they have. They don't all buy the same machines hence the different outcomes.
I think mine has two different machines. When I was bringing my Armada back to them regularly, they made a comment once that they just got some new fancy machine. I noticed the print-out looked different, too. Every other time, however, it has looked the same.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:24 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Rear Supension Overhaul + Subframe Bushings

Installed a couple Bilstein 24-060967 rear shocks. Noticeable improvement. So much so I think Iím always going to wonder if I shouldnít have shelled out a few more bucks on the front end to go with matching Bilsteins instead of the Sachs.

Still a bit of a rough/vibrating ride when first starting out (have always heard Conti DWS06ís are bad for this though I didnít really notice this when they were new) and when trailing in traffic (someone on another thread said this could be rear ball joints).

I guess Iíll be looking forward to incremental improvements until I get thru Burningís four step program (and some new tires).

If I still get a little shudder after that, I suppose Iíll tackle the subframe bushes. Toss in some rear hub bearings at some point as well. Considering the fronts went belly up (at least one of them did) and the car has 180k, figure itís a ďmight as wellĒ job.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-25-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:43 PM
Bob Michaels Bob Michaels is offline
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Originally Posted by pwgoo1 View Post
Installed a couple Bilstein 24-060967 rear shocks. Noticeable improvement. So much so I think I'm always going to wonder if I shouldn't have shelled out a few more bucks on the front end to go with matching Bilsteins instead of the Sachs.

Still a bit of a rough/vibrating ride when first starting out (have always heard Conti DWS06's are bad for this though I didn't really notice this when they were new) and when trailing in traffic (someone on another thread said this could be rear ball joints).

I guess I'll be looking forward to incremental improvements until I get thru Burning's four step program (and some new tires).

If I still get a little shudder after that, I suppose I'll tackle the subframe bushes. Toss in some rear hub bearings at some point as well. Considering the fronts went belly up (at least one of them did) and the car has 180k, figure it's a "might as well" job.
I believe you're on the right track. My '99 always had a harshness in the back end since I bought it in 2005. I replaced all four shocks/struts with Bilstein (OEM like "touring" version) that definitely improved the fronts substantially but only marginally in the rear. I then replaced the subframe bushings and THAT made a huge improvement. When I removed the existing (original bushings) they were terribly cracked and had lost all of the fluid in them. If you want to check yours be aware that you have to remove the bolt and round plate at the bottom to see if they are bad - otherwise, what you can see will look fine. It's not a bad DIY job, you just have to get the touring-specific removal/install tool. Your use of the term "shudder" is a perfect description of the symptom of shot SF bushings.

BTW, I also have Continentals and they DO tend to flatspot after sitting for a day or so - but they return to shape within a few miles.

Last edited by Bob Michaels; 08-27-2019 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:41 AM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Bob Michaels View Post
I believe you're on the right track. My '99 always had a harshness in the back end since I bought it in 2005. I replaced all four shocks/struts with Bilstein (OEM like "touring" version) that definitely improved the fronts substantially but only marginally in the rear. I then replaced the subframe bushings and THAT made a huge improvement. When I removed the existing (original bushings) they were terribly cracked and had lost all of the fluid in them. If you want to check yours be aware that you have to remove the bolt and round plate at the bottom to see if they are bad - otherwise, what you can see will look fine. It's not a bad DIY job, you just have to get the touring-specific removal/install tool. Your use of the term "shudder" is a perfect description of the symptom of shot SF bushings.

BTW, I also have Continentals and they DO tend to flatspot after sitting for a day or so - but they return to shape within a few miles.
Sounds like I may be best served to tackle subframe bushings next before tearing into guide links, arms, and ball joints. My main focus now is fixing what presents most risk of screwing up a new set of tires I'm about to put on.

My local Firestone store just sent a letter to me about a promotion they have coming up. For me, it would mean $100 off a $500+ set. That may be the thing to push me on into getting tires sooner rather than later (and before I can have the entire rear end redone).

Only thing is I wonder if they're going to offer the $100 off only on Firestone/Bridgestone branded tires. When I asked them to quote a General tire last time I was in the store (and before this promo deal came up), they pushed a Firestone Firehawk AS. Not confident I'd be satisfied in that Firehawk based on reviews I've read.

I suppose I could ask them to quote a Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS if they won't cover on the promo the General's I've been eyeing (G-Max AS05). Potenza a higher-priced tire, but the $100 off would put in the same range as the Generals.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-29-2019 at 07:42 AM.
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  #21  
Old 08-29-2019, 09:56 AM
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crazy4trains crazy4trains is offline
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Call and talk, or better yet show up in person, at your local NTB store. They often run buy2-get2 specials. Some are advertised and some are not. With that special you typically have to buy an alignment (a good thing) and road hazard (another good thing), but the total cost ends up being about the same as if you just bought 4 tires. To me that's a better "value" as I got more for the same amount of money. The person I dealt with says he has leeway to offer the unadvertised buy2-get2 offers on Michelins. That way they get more money and I typically get a better quality tire than I would have otherwise purchased, so we both win. Just depends on who you talk to. Call back if you don't get the answer you like and talk to somebody else. Always get a name.
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Old 08-29-2019, 11:36 AM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4trains View Post
Call and talk, or better yet show up in person, at your local NTB store. They often run buy2-get2 specials. Some are advertised and some are not. With that special you typically have to buy an alignment (a good thing) and road hazard (another good thing), but the total cost ends up being about the same as if you just bought 4 tires. To me that's a better "value" as I got more for the same amount of money. The person I dealt with says he has leeway to offer the unadvertised buy2-get2 offers on Michelins. That way they get more money and I typically get a better quality tire than I would have otherwise purchased, so we both win. Just depends on who you talk to. Call back if you don't get the answer you like and talk to somebody else. Always get a name.
Good advice, but I'm probably locked into Firestone.

For one, I already bought the lifetime alignment from them on the E39 because I was doing the front end work (already completed, requiring alignment), knew I'd be doing the rear (probably in a few phases, requiring more than one alignment), and then getting news tires (another alignment just for good measure). Another couple reasons are 1) tire rotations are free, which by their own literature they want done every 5,000 miles and 2) they don't give me crap for dropping my car off at least every 5,000 miles for an alignment, which has been a near necessity on my wife's Armada as for some reason that thing just does not want to stay aligned despite a mountain of work and new parts thrown at it this summer.

I do sometimes wonder about the "talent" in that shop, though. Had some grumpy old man tech give me a hard time about the Armada recently. Those trucks are known to be hard on their suspension components, which is why after 10+ years and 150k+ miles I've been going thru it replacing things. He couldn't get both toe and camber in spec on the right rear tire. Gave me crap about replacing the air system with coils and gas and then asked if the truck had been in a wreck. Certainly possible it has (pretty sure it at least had a minor front end mishap), but I thought it was odd that he dismissed the concept that it could be worn control arm or knuckle bushings..even though the thing gave the most god awful screech when we went to adjust one of the eccentric bolts that I haven't yet had the chance to replace.

Idk...I certainly don't know it all, but the way they seemed a bit confused when I asked them recalibrate the steering angle sensor on that truck, which Nissan says should be done every alignment, leaves me wondering a few things. That plus I know for a fact the rear coil bucket bushings were completely destroyed the first couple times they aligned it (since replaced), and they never made mention of it. The bolts and inner sleeves fused together, tearing the bushing and ripping the rubber away from the outer sleeve (admittedly assisted in ripping away by my installation of a 1.5" spacer in the bucket). Turning the cam bolt only spun the rubber around inside the outer sleeve. They never said a word. Don't see how they couldn't have noticed that. Stuff like that makes you wonder.

Still, as much as I'm running my cars in for alignment given the work I've been doing on them (including the Armada with the modified suspension, which many shops won't even touch a suspension modified from factory), the lifetime alignment with my local Firestone has been a convenience and a money saver...even if it is a "just good enough" level of alignment.

Last edited by pwgoo1; 08-29-2019 at 11:45 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2019, 11:48 AM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Just gonna keep all my rear suspension woes in the same thread...

Thinking maybe the air springs getting extended during the shock install exposed or worsened some small leaks. Right side is slammed some mornings. I can recall this happening maybe once or twice the entire time Iíve owned the car until the last week since I did shocks. Now it seems like every couple days I come out to the driveway to see this:

Right side:


Left side:


I can hear the pump come on and during the day commuting, running to lunch, etc it appears normal.
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:37 PM
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Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
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you need to switch to akibono pads
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Old 08-30-2019, 01:25 PM
pwgoo1 pwgoo1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
you need to switch to akibono pads


Yeah, dust is wild. Not sure what is on the rear. Havenít needed to do them since I got the car but is on the list of things to do sooner than later. New Jurid on front and theyíre as bad or worse for dust, though very quiet. And all this after washing the wheels only a few weeks ago.
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