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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-11-2019, 06:29 AM
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master cylinder?

at almost 250,000 miles i think i need my first master,

Its not leaking, (*yet)

but i have a pretty good sense when it comes to my braking system,

braided lines, crossdrilled rotors and sport pins all the way around,

my car stops square and on a dim as it has for the last 100,000 miles..



i had two events stand out that made me just pull my wheels

i came out of work, i got on the road, and as i had to come to a stop for a light, (*coming in hot like always)

she wanted more then regular push to stop...

so much so that i had to be like "YO wtf you doing?" out loud in the car

then a few days later, I notice when going in to a quick jab on a hard brake, She twist's

at that point the extrapolation began, when on line looked at prices of calibers, touched the rotors after driving hard (the driver side front hotter then the passenger side)
*car dives lefts on jab

knowing it cant be my rotors or pads, i pulled the wheels.. everything was ok both sides,

both calibers smooth retract, all the pins clean and functioning (*one pin had some play in the caliber it self, i replaced it) was not the problem



I believe im coming in to a master cylinder
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2019, 08:51 AM
Barrman Barrman is offline
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If you are going to replace the hoses and calipers anyway. Another $70 to do it all at the same time and only have to bleed once makes perfect sense.

Having done mine a few months ago I would suggest you don't go to all the effort pulling everything out from under the dash/steering column. You only have to pop the clip off the pin on the brake pedal and pull the pin out. Then just two nuts on the firewall that a 13 mm swivel socket and a long extension take care of. Yes, take the knee rest off from the side of the center stack and unbolt the under tray. But removing the OBD plug or the gong wiring isn't needed. At least it wasn't for me.
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:43 PM
Chedley Chedley is offline
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Having inspected the brake pads, rotors and calipers, and found them sound ?
I'd start with a thorough flushing, replacing and bleeding -including ABS bleeding, using INPA- of the brake fluid.

That is probably all you need.
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Old 09-11-2019, 05:34 PM
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car diving to the left when braking makes me think its not the m/c. i know youre very adept with these cars, a simple low tire on the lf can cause this. im not saying its your problem by any means.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:30 PM
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i found the fluid to be darker then i expected.. i flushed it a while back...

Im also thinking possible suspension... the only thing ive not done is the rear sub frame bushings

but what got me is that that front left is hotter then the front right... (*im waiting for a rim discoloration now from dust)

time will tell.. i was ready to pull the trigger on both front calibers, but to my surprise, that are still in good shape

when i did the 4 wheel job a few months back, i didnt pay much attention to the calibers.. just slapped rotors and pads, made sure my pins where clean (sanded)

the sport pins are really holding up well, i was a little worried this morning when i found that bushing to be loose inside the caliber... it should be seized in there pretty good now at this point.. almost 65,000 or so on this set of pins removed the retaining ring and just pushed it out.. I have a bag of pins on hand so i cleaned up the caliber hole for the bushing and pushed the new sleeve in... i used the old pin cause its still good.. i just cleaned it a few months back..

Im gonna flush again
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:59 AM
Chedley Chedley is offline
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So, are these the original calipers on this car -- with 65 K miles, or 250 K miles of service ??
As you have already replaced the pads and rotors.
I would replace the calipers anyway, then flush and bleed. And you'd have a new braking system, good for another 250 K miles...!!
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Old 09-12-2019, 04:32 AM
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i assume they are the original, Ive never replaced them...


well.... for now im not going to do anything.. IM just going to let it manifest in to a problem, Im about to do the front end suspension on the e83 and we are coming in to winter, so thats more priority

i need an inspection anyway for September, Im going to put it on the lift and actually inspect it. Ill let you guys know what i find




(*im now focus on what is still original on the car) coming up on 20 years old now.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:46 AM
mtl_dom mtl_dom is offline
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Seals in the master cylinder do go bad. On my previous bimmer ('97 528i), I had to replace the cylinder because the fluid would go past the seals sometimes and cause that "oh ****" feeling in my stomach when I pressed the brakes. Especially not fun on the highway. I could see a little rubber material when bleeding the brakes prior to replacing the cylinder. That should've been a sign. If you decide to change it, I suggest going with OE, as I had an issue with a TRW cylinder (missing plug) before getting a genuine BMW one. Not a job you want to do twice.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:01 AM
Markst Markst is offline
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What are sport pins?
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:25 AM
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cailber pin upgrades

removing the rubber all together and replacing with a brass shelve
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:38 PM
Markst Markst is offline
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Ah, you're talking about solid brass caliper bushings, for some reason I was picturing fixed calipers.
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:48 PM
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sport pins on all four corners, ecs stainless braided lines, akebono pads, and drilled and sloted rotors (*4 corner standard)

original calibers, original master

eveverything in good working order,

250,000 miles

fluid flush due,
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Old 09-14-2019, 02:33 PM
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Front right caliber

weird that it pushed it.. but wont come back out (unless i have a issue with the distribution block)

Ill let you know after i put all back together.. I should have the new one like mid week
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Old 09-14-2019, 05:32 PM
777-300ER 777-300ER is offline
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A bad caliper will not retract freely however when cranked down on it may still be good. Replace the fronts if they are original Ivm guessing they have some wear on the bores.
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Old 09-15-2019, 12:54 AM
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its seized my dude, it did retract freely, its just not coming out,

Im still not sold its the caliber because there's no fluid coming out (with the bleeder valve open, and pressure applied on the peddle nothing comes out)

Ive seen this once before and it was something else
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Old 09-15-2019, 01:29 PM
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not a caliber,

not the hose, not the line.. back tracking all the way to the abs block now..

Something is blocked or something failed..
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:07 PM
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ill finish it tomorrow.. i dont think i have enought break fluid to do the whole system again ..

I did bleed all the corners last night, but today i got thinking that it cant be the caliber.. because it pressed in...

(*ive seen before where hoses where bad and allowed for directional flow only)

but all corners bleed except for the front right, I went up the line.. seperated at the hose and the chasis.. the hose drained off.. then i went to the distro block and nothing coming out of it..

Im bleeding off at the front right now..


first time ive seen a internal abs block jam like that
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:14 PM
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SO... job done

abs block failed internally..

I havent had a chance to drive to work.. but im wondering if my phantom dcs error is related

also big shout out to bear... for that whole assemble a few years back..

DIDNt think i was going to need it
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:28 PM
Chedley Chedley is offline
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Yes, DCS errors are related to blocked or failing ABS.

If you have INPA set up, re-bleed the brakes and ABS -there is an INPA function to unblock and bleed ABS-, test and clear the errors -run the Tool32 DCS57.PRG "test_winkel" job- , and you should be all set.
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:31 PM
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i just pulled my other thread up, i think the phantom dcs error was the failing abs block

I cant confirm that though... not until i actually drive it to work and hit the same spots
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