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- -CCV(Crankcase/Oil Seperator Fixed!!! w/Pics!!!- -

118K views 56 replies 34 participants last post by  someguy1313 
#1 ·
- -Well today I tackled the common CCV (Crankcase Vent/Oil separator) problem. My problem was a very loud intake leak sound and once I placed my finger over the side port on the CCV, the leak went away as best my finger could make it do. Also motor would shack back and forth, lighting in and outside the car would dance to the misfire that the CCV was causing among other things.
Here is the new unit:
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.Here is a view from the front of the car of the old unit
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Just before I started this I asked myself could the CCV be replaced without taking the intake manifold off. The answer is YES It can be replaced with out taking the intak manifolid off. Here are the intake manifold gaskets I bought a while back thinking that they were the problem
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On to surgery, first I started with removing the air box from the fender to the throttle body
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Once the tubing is removed you can see the 3 bolts that hold the CCV in place on the bracket
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As you can see

the three bolts are easy to get to. They are 10mm. After disconnecting a couple of pigtails and moving a few lines out of the way for clearance the CCV came out without much fuss
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. Once the old CCV was out, I took these picks to show them both
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the CCV on the left is the new one and the one on the right is the old one. After that it's just a matter of doing the reverse and making sure you reconnect any lines or pigtails that were disconnected. This is a go time to check all hoses and cables while most of the big boxy items are out of the way. Also check the hose coming from the bottom of the CCV to the oil dipstick to tube. After a while the rubber becomes spongy from the heat build up and if you look inside you can see that the inside of the hose is starting to deteriorate. So it would be best to change it at this time. Here she is all buttoned up back to normal
. I was curious to see what the old looked like inside and out, so I took it apart and snapped some shots. I hope this helps anyone out there whom may have the problem I had with a bad CCV(Crankcase/Oil separator). I have more photos and info if anyone needs it. My car now runs and ideals MUCH, MUCH better. When I get to work tomorrow I will have the check engine light cleared and wait to see if it will come back on. I have yet to drive it since the work has been done. Going to fill her up before I go to bed just thought I would go ahead and right this up first. I still hear a very faint air sucking sound but it could just be me and my superman hearing when it comes to this car. I'll get a second option from one of our techs tomorrow and see if I'm just hearing things. Just a side note, while the CCV was bad I did smell the fuems in the cabin from time to time and my OBC said my gas MPG were 20.9. I thought that was very strange, so I'm going to reset the MPG and the MPH gauges and see wha I get after a few tanks. Here are the pics of the old CCV in its nakedness enjoy.
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If I missed anything let me know. Here is the link to a thread that helped me out http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214052. Thank you. Peace.:thumbup:
 
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#6 ·
Excellent and well document, thanks! Great to see these DIY posts and folks like yourself sharing your knowledge.
 
#9 ·
Were the vibration issues you mentioned occur when it was cold out in the morning only? did you have constant idle problems....even in warm temps?
 
#10 ·
- -I Got The Shakes- -



- -The vibration was in cold weather and in the morning. I did how ever notice on warm days it was not as bad. I could be at a red light and with my foot on the brake it would shake pretty good. The idle was pretty consistant for the most part, say If was going from light to light about 3 blocks apart. Once I would get to the light, thr RPM hand would fall all the way down to zero and sit there. The motor would shake hard and the after a few seconds the hand would raise to about 300-500 RPM. There were times that the car would just die all together. One more thing, the leak at the CCV was so bad that after I found it and placed my finger over the vent port the motor ran fine then once I let go it died. All is will now though, the CEL light went off on its own after about 3-5 cycles of starting the motor. I hope this helps. Peace.- -:thumbup:
 
#16 ·
- -Payment- -



- -Beer and food is all I need!:thumbup:. If it is covered under warrenty have the dealer do it for you so you can get your money worth.- -
 
#13 ·
Thanks very much!!

I'll be replace mine this spring as I get the cold weather whine. Did you have to replace any hoses?
 
#17 ·
- -1 Hose- -



- -The only hose I wanted to replace was the hose coming from the bottom of the CCV to the dipstick tube. It is 10 years old and just didn't "feel" that great. Plus the end at the dipstick tube was hard to come off without a lot of work on my part and I didn't want to risk damage to anythng with it being Sunday. I will replace that hose once I go CAI. Other than that hose non needed replacing.:hi:- -
 
#14 ·
Good work.

Two questions.

First, did you replace the grommet that goes into the intake manifold and into which the CCV fits?

Second, you didn't mention the hose that goes from the bottom of the CCV to the dipstick housing. DId you just remove that tube or did you remove the dispstick assembly?
 
#18 ·
- -Nope- -

Good work.

Two questions.

First, did you replace the grommet that goes into the intake manifold and into which the CCV fits?

Second, you didn't mention the hose that goes from the bottom of the CCV to the dipstick housing. DId you just remove that tube or did you remove the dispstick assembly?
- -I didn't replace the grommet, it looked real good. No cracks and held the old CCV in place after I removed the 3 bolts very well. I would suggest that you inspect that hose and replace it if it is collasped or soft to the touch. You will have to take a pair of good pliers and work the hose off the end of the CCV first then off the dipstick tube. You do not have to remove the dipstick tube.:thumbup:- -
 
#30 ·
- -Price- -

great write up i need to do mine also i have the same problem. never worked on a bimmer but it doesnt look that bad. how much for the part (ccv) ?
- -The correct part costed me $60 and some change.- -
 
#29 ·
Do you want me to move this to the DIY section or would you like to write up something separate for in there?
 
#31 · (Edited)
- -Good ?- -



- -If you think the write up is ok how it is then sure move it to the DIY section. If there are areas I can improve the write up on I can redo it. Will it also be linked to this forum?- -
 
#35 · (Edited)
Don't know if this will help you but this is the way that I replaced my ccv valve a month or so ago, this is for models 2001 and newer

To replace the ccv valve--do the following--remove the air box-remove the hoses all the way to the throttle body and idle control valve-remove the disa valve -two torx bolts hold it on then just pull out towards you--remove the bolts under that that hold the mounts for the idle control valve and remove that part
then remove the throttle body and then there is a electrical junction box just left of the throttle body--unbolt that and move it out of the way--next there is a bolt that holds down the oil dipstick--take it out and swing the dipstick back to the side--then you can remove the throttle body----now you will be able to see the ccv valve--there are three plastic hoses hooked to it---BREAK THEM--there is no way to remove them and remove the ccv valve belive me (order all three hoses) There is one or two sheet metal screws that hold the sucker in there--You may have to remove the purge valve from its rubber mount also--it just slides out and you can move it off to the side as well---along with that I really belive that you should replace the 0 rings in the distributation unit as well---I'll post along a thread I started back a few weeks ago to give you better understanding on some of the parts I'm mentioning above. Read all the way to the end on the below.
The hose that goes to the distribitor unit from the ccv is keyed at the ccv fitting--you put the hose on the cvv and turn it clockwise and it is then locked---don't miss that or you can have trouble

Lets try again--
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1079942
 
#38 ·
i just cleaned mine, out while i had replace the the cps on my car. the car starts up better and seems to hold the rpm's up durring warm up, and the rough idle seems to be better for now. but it was and is still nasty. i had clunks of stuff come out when i cleaned it. but i plan on replacing it. the hardest part about removing it was not breaking the plastic hose.
 
#42 · (Edited)
CCV and Oil filter housing

Just thought I would add a couple of comments of my own. I recently went to remove my oil filler cap and found it to be ceased, could not remove. I tried to remove when the engine compartment was warm and sure enough cap came off, as it was frozen on due to moisture built-up. To my surprise, the cap looked like a milkshake exploded on it. I also found a massive oil leak around the head gasket area. Of course my first thought was head gasket and huge $$$ to fix. Long story short, I took an oil sample in to have checked and sure enough, water in the oil. After reading all of the forums, I decided to spend my $2.00 for oil filter housing gasket and $180 for winter version of CCV (I'm up in Canada and we easily hit -40 Celsius in winter) and see if I could fix this problem, as I could not believe it was the head gasket. I have read many forums that say the winter version of the CCV is a pia to change, I didn't find it that hard. I took the filter housing off and sure enough, leaking like a SOB. Then started disconnecting all lines leading to CCV and guess what, water started to pour out! I also found a big hunk of ice in the line that leads to the bottom of the CCV, check out the attached pics. All-and-all both problems fixed in a few hours. I'm sure the stealer would have charged be well over $1500 to fix! One thing to watch out for on the new CCV. The insulated jacked is held together by these lame o-rings that kept coming off when trying to squeeze the CCV in place. Some forums write that you need to modify the new CCV by shaving and cutting. I found that I did not have to do this, just have a lot of patience and a couple of cold beers. To boot, I did this in my garage in -15c!
 

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#44 ·
Actually you need to do more than the CCV.

I wrote a comprehensive DIY here:
1- Replacing Oil Line to Vanos (mine is leaking).
2- Replacing CCV and hoses (preventive).
3- Cleaning ICV and replace its hoses (preventive).
4- Cleaning Alternator Air Duct and Installed Gutter Guard to prevent leaves from being sucked in.
5. All vacuum hoses
6. Intake Gaskets etc.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379225
 
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