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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 01 330i battery finally quit on me today. I re-charged once 6 weeks ago, and it worked. Today, I re-charged again, it did not re-started.

Anyway, I ended up to jump start the car today. I am ready to get a new battery, any recommendation ?

I have been reading about the "vent" for the original battery. Does the replacement battery come with that option too ? and are those replacement batteries come with a vent hole, and uses the existing hose/hole for the replacement battery ?

I would very much appreciated if anyone had done this before and can sprinkle some info on me.

Thank you in advance.

John
 

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Keeping it surreal
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In my wife`s `98 and my `99 BMW, both batteries expired just about exactly 4 years from the date of delivery. Best bet is to get a replacement from the dealer....if you`re a CCA member, they`ll give you a pretty good price.

Regards,
Bob
 

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BMW + twisty road = fun
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I have not actually bought one but I know AutoZone sells a replacement battery for the E46. It is a Duralast 7 year battery and it costs $99.99.
 

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You can also go to Batteries Plus and get their European Series. Its made by the same company as the OEM battery (Douglas out of South Carolina) just sans the Roundel. It was $69.99 retail the last I checked.
 

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I have purchased the Duralast battery several times for former cars (mercedes) and had great experiences with all of them. I only last month replaced my '01 325ci 's original battery with the $99.00 Duralast battery...........again, so far, so good.... :thumbup:
(by the way, AutoZone did not offer a core refund on the old battery for some reason).
 

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Currently crazy for autox
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Roundel recommends against dealer replacement batts

In the current issue of Roundel (BMWCCA mag) there is a question in the Tech Talk section about replacement batteries. They say that the original battery that comes with the car is great, but that the replacement batteries you can get at the dealer are a different product and not that great. The article had good things to say about Interstate batts.
 

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Has anyone ever been able to get the new AGM factory-installed batts over-the-counter? In theory, an AGM battery should outlast pretty much any conventional lead-acid battery.

Otherwise, the only conventional battery I'd spend my own money on would be a Delco.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thank you, thank you

Hey folks,

Thank you for all your input over the weekend on my battery thread.

Just called the local dealer, it is $160 for BMW replacement made by Douglas.

What do you all think ? Go get a real one or a copy ? The price is not that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I went to the autozone this evening and looked at their DL-49 battery. It measures right up to the original battery size.

In addition, it comes with the vent. kit with a little tubing adapter. All I need is a pair of cutter to fit the plastic tubing. That's about all it is to it.

I agree $160 for a battery is too much. Anyone knows how to read the battery manufacture date on Duralast battery ?

Ah, what about the Interstate MTP-91 ? how much ?

Many thanks

John
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Interstates are the Bose of car batteries. The PO put a MTP91 in my M6 (right size for this car; wrong for E46) and I'm waiting for the day it dies.

I might pay $160 for an OE AGM battery, considering that an Optima, which doesn't fit, costs $130ish.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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feliceyd said:
Question: If you change the battery yourself, does it cause any problems in the computer?
no
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for all the input from you guys.

I decided to go with Duralast. I will go down to the AutoZone to get one first thing Sat morning. By the way, does anyone here know how to choose a fresh one ? How to read those numbers imprinted on the rim of the battery to pick the most recent one ?

By the way, should I charge up the battery first before I put it in the car ?

I will post again Monday to tell you this weekend gig.

Thanks

John
 

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jchan168 said:
Thank you for all the input from you guys.

I decided to go with Duralast. I will go down to the AutoZone to get one first thing Sat morning. By the way, does anyone here know how to choose a fresh one ? How to read those numbers imprinted on the rim of the battery to pick the most recent one ?

By the way, should I charge up the battery first before I put it in the car ?

I will post again Monday to tell you this weekend gig.

Thanks

John
Sometimes there is a sticker on it that gets "punched" (actually little die cut circles that are lifted off) when the dealer gets the battery or when it goes in service (sale date). This doesn't always happen though because I've seen batteries with these stickers still intact. More than likely there will be a production code of some sort and you may or may not be able to decipher it. Sometimes the counter person will know how to tell but assume that this is rare. I would look for one that the posts are shiny and there is no dust on top. Obviously, with the battery gauranteed for 7 years, it won't be an issue if it craps out in say 5 years, other than the inconvenience. That is assuming that you still own the car in 5 years :D . Have them test it before you leave to make sure it is charged sufficiently, but unless it reads lower than 12V (I know, 13.2 would be optimal), no need to charge it.
 

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Livin' like Larry!
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In the old days, there would be a little round sticker on the battery that usually had a code like B-97 or G-00... IIRC, the letter corresponds to the month (A = January, B = February, C = March, etc.) and the numbers equals the year... 97 = 1997, 00 = 2000, etc. Much like bread at the store, they "should" rotate the battery stock to ensure that FIFO occurs, but thats not always the case... look at the codes and see what makes sense... if you purchase from a store with a quick turnaround, it probably won't matter much... the whole battery "freshness" thing was more important when you had to buy your battery at the gas station, and they had had it sitting around for months or years (or as in my case, you had a really odd battery ( 6V ) that no one had purchased in 10 or 15 years, and they hand you something that has more dust on it than King Tut! :rofl: )
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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:google:

There are lots of pages that show battery date codes by brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Done deal, the whole thing took me about an hour, I was taking it easy, I could have it done faster.

As far as the date of the battery, there is a small round sticker pre-printed Apr/05, so I assumed that was when the battery was made.

Last nite I went to pick up a 49DL Duralast for about $80 (tax and everything included) from AutoZone. The battery came with the vent. kit which has all the instruction. I use a pair of scissor to cut to fit the existing tubing. No sweat.

The car starts on the first crank. no sweat.

Thanks guy.
 
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