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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, so some history, I bought my 530i 6speed MT from from my brother about 1.5yr ago with about 110k miles on it, it has 126k now. Was very well maintained but I had to replace the control arms soon after buying, the fuel pump and filter due to a leak and hum, whining sound from passenger side pump area, tho afterwards guage was always at E and still have the same sound. Ran fine just annoying. The logic7 system stopped working, no sos, bluetooth, radio, chimes, you know the drill. Passenger restraint warning. Drove fine but about a month ago went into limp mode, hooked up my cheap obd2 and had 14 codes!

P1553 Engine Position System 'B' Performance (Bank 1)

P0440 The gas cap is not installed or working properly The purge solenoid has failed The canister is plugged and not working.

P2068 fuel level sensor circuit b

P1407 Faulty Fuel Level Sensor

Fuel Level Sensor harness is open or shorted

Fuel Level Sensor circuit poor electrical connection.


Na


U1101 Component protection

P0456 evap leak

https://www.fixdapp.com/blog/p0456

P0461 Faulty fuel level sensor

Fuel level sensor harness is open or shorted

Fuel level sensor circuit poor electrical connection

P0117 coolant temperature

P1056 Faulty Valvetronic Control MotorValvetronic Control Motor harness is open or shortedValvetronic Control Motor circuit poor electrical connection

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P2068 P fuel level sensor circuit b

P1407 P Faulty Fuel Level Sensor

Fuel Level Sensor harness is open or shorted

Fuel Level Sensor circuit poor electrical connection.

P0456 P evap leak


P0461 P Faulty fuel level sensor

Fuel level sensor harness is open or shorted

Fuel level sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Parked it in the driveway and got to work. Power steering fluid and coolant were a little low and found that the water pump was intermittently cycling on/off when it was in sleep mode. Charcoal canister and purge seemed to be in order. Pulled new pumps and tested sending units and floats, all seemed fine, had proper resistance. Checked pump and circuit board looked good, no smell. Went to check relays and there was water in the ebox... dme in about an inch. Some bad storms in northern california lately. Took it all apart and cleared the drain, dry it out over a couple days with desiccant. Checked harnesses and the only issue I noticed short I found was the passenger taillight (both license plate bulbs were out). Soldered in new ground wire. Charged battery, cleared codes, tried to start but just cranks no start. 5 codes, p1407
P2068
P1407 P
P2068 P
P2021 P
Back to relay testing, multimeter ohms takes a crap, but they all throw and pass current. Today, I put the relays in with ebox disassembled and checked under the bases (note, I have 5 total relays in ebox and dont see any in the glove box? I cant find anything online about that being a setup, seems like the fuel relay is always in the glove box.) There are 3 blue 4pin, a green and a brown. Blues have no 86 and brown is wipers. So 3 that are 30to duel 87s with 85 as throw, green is 30to87s with 85to86 trigger. Multimeter ground to ebox point and all tested 11v at 30, 11v at 85... dme relay had 12v at 87, the other had 5v and the last had a few mV. I have a cable coming tomorrow and inpa downloaded but, and here's the kicker... cue the violinist... I'm a single father of 3 kids and was getting it ready to sell due to serious financial issues recently. I have no money or time any yet have already spent way more of both on this than I can afford to. I'm out of options, kills me to sell the car, 6speed AT with dynamic drive, 19in staggered, logic7 and a sunroof!!!! But I have reached the point where I hate the car and every day I'm more confused and stressed to the point of arson. Please help and to the narsasists, please save the judgment and "you shoulda' done..." for someone else. Thx, seriously!
 

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A few years back when I had my e60 (2006 530xi) I went through almost the same thing but went a different route.
Long story short, DME box had a broken seal and after a heavy storm it had water intrusion.
Determined by the dealership, I then turned it into insurance and finalized my only cost was for the new box, insurance covered the rest.
It amounted to almost 10k, with specialists, harnesses and modules all involved.
The short of it is, you might look into that, can't hurt.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I now realize that you need to earn a PhD in whatever model you are going to buy, and a double masters degree in electrical engineering and German philosophy... you know, to try and wrap your head around the dichotomy of a people that can engineer vanos, dynamic drive, active... everything, yet place the mpm under the spare in the lowest point of the interior with no drain. Take all 674 modules and can lines, place them in locations that, if tiny drain tubes or your crappy seals fail, will be in the direct line of flooding. Germans have packed so technical information into their heads that, apparently, common sense has no place.
I replaced the trunk seal, rear upper and lower windshield trim and upper front trim in the short time I've owned it. The lower windshield trim was next.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Context, I'm selling it because I just spent years in court fighting an East German for equal custody of my 3 kids after 12 years of marriage. Buncha awkward psycho robot freaks... ok I'm finished
 

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Discussion Starter #8
INPA screen shots... help me OBD, youre hy only hope!

got the cable, mikes easy one click install, took a few screen shots. hopefully theres a sherlock homes type out there that can point me in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
got the cable, mikes easy one click install, took a few screen shots. hopefully theres a sherlock homes type out there that can point me in the right direction.
so, it looks like my SGM is not responding... thats about as far as i got. tho, i know enough to know that i dont know anything at this point
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i have the red fiber optic light at all MOST BUS modules and at loop in glove box, so maybe SMG going down also causes the no sos no chime/sound issue?
 

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Man, sorry to hear about your predicament. At this point I would almost disregard all the troubleshooting steps and testing of relays just because the DME has been submerged.
Is there any corrosion on the DME pins or harness connectors at this point?
If I was in the same waterlogged boat I might instead start with a replacement DME coded to the car just to eliminate things you may not even be able to diagnose or resolve with the old one.

EDIT: You might also want to check all the sunroof drain hoses and ensure you're not submerging all the trunk modules under the spare. I got lucky when I bought my wagon a couple months ago and happened to find the styrofoam floating but no modules submerged. Both rear drain hoses were clogged and filling the sunroof channels, causing water to spill onto the headliner so it could work its way into the lowest recesses. Both front drain lines were clear though, go figure. And all 4 of my engine compartment drains, the 2 on both sides in fenders, and the other 2 accessed by removing both front wheel well liners, were clogged. But again, got lucky and nothing was waterlogged.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man, sorry to hear about your predicament. At this point I would almost disregard all the troubleshooting steps and testing of relays just because the DME has been submerged.
Is there any corrosion on the DME pins or harness connectors at this point?
If I was in the same waterlogged boat I might instead start with a replacement DME coded to the car just to eliminate things you may not even be able to diagnose or resolve with the old one.
I hear you, thx for the replay, I thought the same thing at first but when I opened it up (see earlier pics) there were really no signs of water damage to circuit board or harness. It looks like the dme is communicating and I'm able to read codes. The only module I see unresponsive is the sgm. I think I remember reading the the IBS will shut down a module that keeps waking up during sleep mode, and I have had the passenger restraint message since I bought it. I'm pretty sure the first thing I need us a new battery but at this point I'm out of time and money, might be selling it as a beautiful parts car tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have been digging around the trunk for months with a fiber optic loop trying to figure out the logic7 MOST BUS issue, mpm repositioned and no signs of short. Only issue back there was the passenger side tail light harness melted at the ground pin. Had me thinking footwell module as I think they are connected, I believe they are connected to the sunroof as well. I feel like theres a trail of bread crumbs here but I just cant find my way home!
 

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Also, I plugged in the charger before I left this morning and it was at 68%, got home to find the charger shut off and battery dead. Started the charger just now and its charging but at 53%. So modules are running in sleep mode ( I think that's what I was seeing in inpa) or I have a short... probably both...
 

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That is a nice ride. Love the wheels and black grills (doing mine today).
Hopefully you find the culprit(s) but electrical gremlins are a bitch to solve sometimes. Double check all those connectors to all those modules too. Simple condensation can dick 'em up, let alone completely submerging them.
Wish you were local, I'd swing by and offer my help. limited as it may be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thx, again, so close but so far away. fuse 64 was blown after pulling screen shots in inpa. i removed the battery to charge it, up to 80% so far... i need to find a way to use one of these programs ive downloaded to find out where such a large draw is coming from, or is it still the old fashioned 10a MM inline with the neg bat term? i need post something in the coding area i think...
Rob, i certainly hope you have better luck with your 61!!!
 

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Damn, Best of luck. Its going to be really pretty hard solving the issues your having. Just try and approach it in different ways every-time you get stuck. What I mean is if your trying to figure out if you have a power draw, try and isolate your diagnosis to the specific problem your having. Dont go thinking there is water somewhere causing a short for example. It just makes diagnosing so many issues at the same time much easier. In the end, the most simple of things is always the hardest to diagnose because they usually dont go wrong, I feel like you might be having one of those type of issues. Anyway I'm subed, I'll try and help out any time there is anything i can help out with. For a start, do you have software that can access the MOST system for example? Maybe start with something simple like that and move forward. Power drains can be measured with the car in sleep mode and a voltmeter at all the different fuses in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thx, good advice right there, I've always been a big fan KISS rule. Unfortunately it seems to be a little easier said than done in this case. So many bread crumbs that seemed to lead to one another, I just can't find my way home! So I found that my coolant heater valve seems to have a small leak, when I pulled the harness and check the leads both positive wires were 12 V. Disconnecting that harness has slowed parasitic draw but the water pump still is cycling. With a charged battery I was able to start the car but immediately had a rough idle. Since then I've been reading and surfing through inpa looking at whatever information I can find fortunately half of what I find is in German. I can access the most Gateway and M ask but not individual modules in the most Gateway. I have to run out real quick but when I get back I will post some screenshots. I appreciate the help so far and Hope I can get this thing running soon
 
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