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Discussion Starter #1
Searched but can't find any threads that have helped.

535 with 135k miles.

The issue started with the tranny acting funny on a start up - it would not go into gear - just the 'P' letter flashing. Re-started and it worked fine.

Next start I noticed the clock / date reset on me. But it went into gear fine.

After a few miles, I got 4X4 ABS AND airbag lights. Wipers stopped working (it was raining). A few seconds later the iDrive went blank, I lost PS, and I'm pretty sure the water pump stopped working. It was like all electrical accessories died.

I got it home, and the next day replaced the battery with a new and freshly charged one. Same set of errors on starting - 4X4 ABS and airbag light. After a few hundred yards down my street, all electrical accessories die including the speedo.

I'm finding a set of similar issues related to either the tranny fluid, transfer case, or mechatronic sleeve.


I'm really stumped - there's not a shop here that I trust.
 

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Searched but can't find any threads that have helped.

535 with 135k miles.

The issue started with the tranny acting funny on a start up - it would not go into gear - just the 'P' letter flashing. Re-started and it worked fine.

Next start I noticed the clock / date reset on me. But it went into gear fine.

After a few miles, I got 4X4 ABS AND airbag lights. Wipers stopped working (it was raining). A few seconds later the iDrive went blank, I lost PS, and I'm pretty sure the water pump stopped working. It was like all electrical accessories died.

I got it home, and the next day replaced the battery with a new and freshly charged one. Same set of errors on starting - 4X4 ABS and airbag light. After a few hundred yards down my street, all electrical accessories die including the speedo.

I'm finding a set of similar issues related to either the tranny fluid, transfer case, or mechatronic sleeve.


I'm really stumped - there's not a shop here that I trust.
Hi

Do you have ISTA-D or INPA to read codes its throwing out?

Have you coded the battery after replacement?

Also have you checked the voltage on idle and before startup?

BMW 525d Msport 2009 LCI Stage 1
 

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I have a simple OBD diagnostic tool that reads only a few codes. I get only some general faults, so I know I need a better one.

Is this the one I want?

https://www.amazon.com/DIAGKING-FT232RL-Coding-Winkfp-Programing/dp/B07BCLDR93

I've been looking at the Carly system.

Have not checked voltage yet but will do that tonight and report back.
Yes inpa will show all fault codes. Rheingold ista-d better as its more user friendly and more detailed to diagnose.

Check your voltage before looking anywhere and if you can provide the fault codes somehow it will be very handy where to look.

Regards

Khanvict

BMW 525d Msport 2009 LCI Stage 1
 

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Searched but can't find any threads that have helped.

535 with 135k miles.

The issue started with the tranny acting funny on a start up - it would not go into gear - just the 'P' letter flashing. Re-started and it worked fine.

Next start I noticed the clock / date reset on me. But it went into gear fine.

After a few miles, I got 4X4 ABS AND airbag lights. Wipers stopped working (it was raining). A few seconds later the iDrive went blank, I lost PS, and I'm pretty sure the water pump stopped working. It was like all electrical accessories died.

I got it home, and the next day replaced the battery with a new and freshly charged one. Same set of errors on starting - 4X4 ABS and airbag light. After a few hundred yards down my street, all electrical accessories die including the speedo.

I'm finding a set of similar issues related to either the tranny fluid, transfer case, or mechatronic sleeve.


I'm really stumped - there's not a shop here that I trust.
Just a guess but what you are experiencing sounds a lot like a dead alternator. It should barf up the red battery on the display but maybe it's a low out put.

As has been mentioned, measure the battery voltage at the jump terminal inside the engine compartment before and after starting, as well as under load with the headlamps, cabin blower and seat heaters on. You should see around 13, 15, and 14 volts respectively.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot guys. The car has been sitting for around the last 7 hrs, and the (new) battery is all but fully drained. It reads around 8v and won't start.

I have the charger on now.

I'm thinking similar lines - alternator/volgate regulator, or the IBS.
 

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you have voltage issues..

your symptoms are classic

transmission problems first, (as it is as sensitive to voltage as other modules )

then symptomatic failure down the circuit
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Voltage issues - do you suspect the alternator then?

Checked the tire well first and its dry. I disconnected the IBS plug last night. Battery is still charging.
 

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Check the loose grounding bolt in the trunk. Under the carpet nearer the backseat. I runs from the battery.
Check the loose positive terminal used for jump starting under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After a full 24 hr charge, it starts.

I'm getting 12.6v with the ignition on and the IBS disconnected.

But at idle and at 2000 rpm I'm getting 17-19v. Disconnecting the IBS harness makes no difference in the voltage output.

So I think this means a bad voltage regulator. I ordered one last night, and plan to pull the alternator today and check the slip rings/shaft.

I'm still perplexed at what caused/is causing a rapid drain. I agree the battery should not drain that fast, ever. I can't think what could else could cause it? Shorted alternator or starter perhaps? But then it would be completely dead/not putting out any voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update. Car is still down with the trifecta of error codes: 4X4 ABS and DSC.

-I replaced the alternator rather than replacing the regulator alone, suspecting that a diode was the cause of high voltage readings and difficulty in charging the battery up to full capacity (more on this later). Went with a Bosch rebuild.
-I reset the battery (I am now hooked up with and learning ISTAD).
-Fully charged the battery.
-Started car and got the Trifecta.

-Ran a test using ISTAD.

The report shows that there's no communication with the VTG: 0x00D36A No message (VTG, 0xBC), receiver DSC, transmitter VTG

There's a number of additional faults that I think are related, and some that are separate (I did disconnect the IBS over the course of the last week).

Net I think I've got a dead transfer case control unit, actuator, or something in between. Not sure if this was the cause of voltage issues previously, or if high voltage fried it.

I checked both fuses to the VTG and they're fine.

Some additional points that may be important:

-While I waited for parts, the trickle charger could never got the new battery up to a full charge - that is while the battery was connected to the car. I disconnected the negative lead and it reached full charge overnight. This made me suspect a fault somewhere in the alternator circuit, so I replaced the entire alternator. After installing the new alternator - this issue is resolved - the battery charges fully.
-I'm still getting a high voltage at idle with the new alternator - above 15v - but not nearly as high as previously.
-The first problem appeared after a day of heavy rain. The car was outside, and while it seemed humid inside the trunk the day after the heavy rain, i don't have any standing water that I can find inside the car. The wheel well is bone dry.

Any thoughts on what I do next?
-My plan is to pull connectors at the VTG control unit (under passenger seat I believe) and check for corrosion. Also at the rear power distribution panel. Check for voltage at the unit.
-Could I have a bad actuator? Bad actuator resistor?
-30G relay somehow at play?
-Other ideas.
 

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Alternator


Mine went bad in the middle of nowhere Indiana at midnight on a Sunday. I had just left the dragstrip...and fortunately a guy I knew at the track drove me to Wal-mart to buy a cheap battery. I hooked it up, and drove 100 miles with the headlights off to save the battery. Almost got the whole way. Found a used good alt on CL the next day. Problems solved. Did all the same junk yours is doing.

Our Alt's are 180 amp! It takes a lot of juice to run a 5 series.
 

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Have you checked voltage when the car is off, then tried again when it's running? Don't forget, sometimes parts can be bad out of the box
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Fair point on the new alternator being out of spec. Voltage off is 12.7v so this is solid. And the diagnostic test runs with the engine off, so presumably all the controllers are seeing 12.7V. And there's no communication with the VTG during this test.

So fair point I could have a bad rebuilt Bosch that is leading to high voltage at idle (I tend to trust Bosch to some degree).

But I don't think that resolves the VTG communication issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: Replaced Alternator + VTG

So I can't be certain about cause and effect. I replaced the alternator, replaced and coded a new battery, but continued to get transfer case control unit issues (VTG) - no communication.

I ended up finding a used VTG, and replaced and programmed it. Calibrated the steering angle sensor and all the codes disappeared.

So far so good. I've driven it 30 miles without throwing any new codes. Voltage output is on the high side (up to 15.0 volts) but it is cold out.

The battery is retaining a charge fine.

I suspect in the end that a failed voltage regulator may have fried the VTG.
 

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Thanks for the update. These cars are fun to drive but we all pray the electrical gremlins don't appear.
 
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