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Discussion Starter #1
I know I've already posted on this but so far no joy so I thought I'd post a video - maybe prompt someone and yes this is an x5 but I believe more or less all cars between 2005 - 2013 share the same electronics.

https://youtu.be/vorkrnNch-I


If anyone can shed some light on what is going on - and perhaps even more importantly how to fix it that would be great.

As I said in the video the car doesn't have CA. It's a 2007 3.0d. It started doing this at the end of last week.

I only found out about the 10 seconds start button because of a post in the E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006-2013) which refered to the CAS module. The post seems to reflect what's happening however there was no resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Firstly thanks to all that took the time to read my thread/watch the video, especially to all who offered ideas and solutions.

As with most things it often pays to rule out the cheapest solutions before throwing bucket loads at the problem and this rule has been proven once again.

As those who watched the video will have seen one of the symptoms (though not seemingly a significant one) was that the fob didn't appear to lock in the slot. As a second hand unit was only £30 with it's ribbon I figured I'd start by replacing it and guess what - it solved the whole problem! The fob locks in correctly and the car is back to starting on the button as it should! The cheapest solution paid off.

For further information having used the original ribbon (because I tested it and it worked with the new key slot) prior to throwing away the old slot I decided to test it. I put the fob in the slot - and it locked in correctly! Now I'm not saying the old key slot now works (I'm not about to take the car apart to test it again) but it's now locking the fob in place as it did prior to this whole episode. Just to be clear last Saturday I disconnected the battery for around 3 hrs and it made no difference but just maybe the cas (which is what the slot unit is connected to) has some form of long term battery support. Actually physically disconnecting the slot from the cas may have allowed it to reset so I may not even have needed to buy a replacement! I've only documented this in case at some point in the future someone else hits the same problem.

If anyone has problems anything like what are documented above then (having disconnected the battery) gain access to your cas and disconnect the ribbon that connects it to the fob slot. Try your fob in the slot - see if it locks correctly. Then reconnect the ribbon and your battery. Maybe this acts as a reset. Worth a try as it costs nothing beyond 30 mins of your time!
 

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Well that's trully bizzare. I have CA on my E60, and as such have little need to insert the key in the slot. But when I have, it goes in and locks like pressing the button on a biro - click in, then press again and it pops out. Was yours not doing that originally or was the key just going in without latching?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It really was odd. Prior to a cup of tea being thrown over the dashboard (don***8217;t ask) my fob locked in just as you described. After the mishap it no longer clicked - it was loose. I didn***8217;t really think that was the main problem but replacing the slot and start button fixed it in all regard. The dash now comes to life when the fob ***8220;clicks***8221; into the slot. The really odd thing was that when I tried the fob in the original slot it also ***8220;clicks***8221; into place and is held (despite it not being connected to the car) really odd all round. Glad I got to the bottom of it.
 

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Glad you got that figured out. What an odd problem, but I guess not surprising considering how complicated BMW makes these cars.
I just resolved an odd issue with the passenger side mirror caused by corroded pins where it would adjust itself to odd angles prior to me getting in it and starting the car. Auto-tilt for reverse didn't work right before either, now fixed.
I used some sandpaper to clean the pins and it's good as new. Go figure...
 

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I too just solved an odd issue. My steering wheel, rather than rising when switching off, would lower. When driving, the wheel was too low and needed to be raised but didn't immediately respond to the 'up' button but did after a second or two. I was a bit miffed, so once it started moving upward after this behaviour of weeks, I kept the button pressed until it hit top, then I hit up again. Wheel is now rising when I switch off the car, and lowers to the memory position when I restart. Guess I needed to teach the position for some reason.
 
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