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Discussion Starter #1
I know I've already posted on this but so far no joy so I thought I'd post a video - maybe prompt someone and yes this is an x5 but I believe more or less all cars between 2005 - 2013 share the same electronics.

https://youtu.be/vorkrnNch-I


If anyone can shed some light on what is going on - and perhaps even more importantly how to fix it that would be great.

As I said in the video the car doesn't have CA. It's a 2007 3.0d. It started doing this at the end of last week.

I only found out about the 10 seconds start button because of a post in the E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006-2013) which refered to the CAS module. The post seems to reflect what's happening however there was no resolution.
 

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As always when strange things like this happen, measure your battery voltage 1st. 12 volts or more would eliminate this item. Once this eliminated you probably need to have some one run diagnostics with ISTA. I would suspect that something is going on with the CAS module, maybe it needs to be re-synced. Holding the starting buttons in for 10 seconds usually get the antenna for the FOB to initiate the start. The problem with your is that nothing is searching for the key, this usually is indicated on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
HerbP, thanks for your suggestions. The battery is holding at around 13 volts so all good there. I have run ISTA d. There were no significant faults listed and nothing in the fault memory for the cas. I had a similar thought re some sort of reset or re-sync of the cas but I***8217;m not clear on the procedure. In procedures listed in ISTA there is mention of resetting (or something of that nature - I forget the precise wording) but I was wary of going to far without some advice. I***8217;m aware that when you start refreshing settings things can get out of hand and at the moment the car does still start.

As you can see from the video nothing appears on the dash prior to the normal dash lights which illuminate just as the engine starts.

Question..... my wife (who usually drives an E46) used the car the day it went wrong. Since then the key doesn***8217;t lock in the slot as it normally would. I had read that it***8217;s not significant as to whether it locks in but is it? I asked her about how she removed the key that morning and she thinks she forgot to release it and just pulled it out. Could the fact that it***8217;s not locking be causing the problem? Also what would you expect to see on the dash?

Thanks again
 

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Once you press the start button without pressing the brake, the dash should light up as usual. When you press the button, nothing is showing on the dash. If the key FOB is having communication problems with the antenna, you would get a key symbol with a slash thru it. The procedure to relearn the key is to put it in when you see that symbol, then hold the button for 10 seconds.

If you do a text search in ISTA under Vehicle Management, search DME & EWS. This should bring up an ABL which will walk you thru the process. You can back out at anytime, but I don't see where it would hurt to try it.

Just to ask, have you been having any starting problems that come & go. Not the problem you are having now, but trying to start the engine, & it not firing off? If you have been having this problem, I would suggest a new IVM, which controls almost everything that controls the engine & transmission. This would not ever show a fault, the engine just will not crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
can I just ask what procedure you***8217;re suggesting to explore in ISTA? Is it the cas re-sync? I***8217;ll have a look and come back to you, thanks.

Re other starting problems in all honesty no. It doesn***8217;t like to run at lower than 1/4 tank but that***8217;s a fuel system issue and apart from that no issues since a new battery about 18 months ago.
 

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Did you register the battery when it was installed with ISTA, since you have it? Strange things will happen if this is not done, not saying this is the problem. Eliminate all known issues, then work from there.
 

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Did you by chance doing any pulling on the negative battery terminal when the battery was installed, if so the IBS might have problems. There is a current recall for the last 5 years to have the IBS replaced. Has your car had the IBS replaced since you have owned it? Check with BMWNA or your local dealer to check to see if this has been done?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HerbP, I must be honest, I didn***8217;t register the battery. I did look for the option but tbh at the time I got the new battery I was having problems with the air suspension and by the time I***8217;d got that sorted (I replaced all the components in the system but the air valve actually had the wrong colour coding on it so i spent weeks chasing it) I forgot all about it. Just to confirm it is under ISTA d not p? I have both but the laptop I***8217;m currently using isn***8217;t strong enough to run p.

I had no idea there was a recall for the IBS so I***8217;ll look into that too! I doubt it***8217;s the root of the problem as the battery hasn***8217;t been touch in around 15 months but I***8217;ll go down any path to see. I have time tomorrow to get the laptop out so will go through the EWS pairing that you suggested and I***8217;ve ordered a replacement key slot and it***8217;s ribbon cable - that should be here by the middle of next week.
 

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My reply below does NOT address your start delay issue...but it does address how the engine can be started again within 10 seconds after shutting down the engine.

As I mentioned in the other thread...there is a 10 second period that EWS/CAS doesn't require the encryption code/ISN (individual serial number) right after shut down. BMW has used this 10 second period since EWS II. :) That is the reason you can start the car (in your video) right after turning the engine off.

Back with EWS II, III, IV (when BMWs used keys w/metal key blade)...if you had a non-working remote key that would NOT start the car...if you had a working key and started the car...then shut it down...then inserted the non-working key...you could actually start the car if done within that 10 second window. This used to confound owners that had 1 working key and one non-working key...if they didn't know about the 10 second period. They could not figure out how the usually non-working key could start the vehicle when used after the working key.

 

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HerbP, I must be honest, I didn't register the battery. I did look for the option but tbh at the time I got the new battery I was having problems with the air suspension and by the time I'd got that sorted (I replaced all the components in the system but the air valve actually had the wrong colour coding on it so i spent weeks chasing it) I forgot all about it. Just to confirm it is under ISTA d not p? I have both but the laptop I'm currently using isn't strong enough to run p.

I had no idea there was a recall for the IBS so I'll look into that too! I doubt it's the root of the problem as the battery hasn't been touch in around 15 months but I'll go down any path to see. I have time tomorrow to get the laptop out so will go through the EWS pairing that you suggested and I've ordered a replacement key slot and it's ribbon cable - that should be here by the middle of next week.

Look at the Sticky at the top under registering the battery, & it will help you get that done. Since the IBS controls the power to both the starter, & a 2nd power source to the other components, that makes me think it is some how related. No power to the dash, & no power to the starter. If the dash lit up with lights as it should, I would not think that the IBS would be a problem. Since the power from the IBS flows thru the IVM, the IVM could also be a problem. The CAS controls the starting system, you can't rule it out either? Lots of head scratching to be done? Enter the CAS thru the control tree function & start playing around. ISTA/D is just diagnostics, not programming ISTA+ has both functions, diagnostics & programming. You can update to ISTA+ is our coding forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Firstly thanks to all that took the time to read my thread/watch the video, especially to all who offered ideas and solutions.

As with most things it often pays to rule out the cheapest solutions before throwing bucket loads at the problem and this rule has been proven once again.

As those who watched the video will have seen one of the symptoms (though not seemingly a significant one) was that the fob didn't appear to lock in the slot. As a second hand unit was only £30 with it's ribbon I figured I'd start by replacing it and guess what - it solved the whole problem! The fob locks in correctly and the car is back to starting on the button as it should! The cheapest solution paid off.

For further information having used the original ribbon (because I tested it and it worked with the new key slot) prior to throwing away the old slot I decided to test it. I put the fob in the slot - and it locked in correctly! Now I'm not saying the old key slot now works (I'm not about to take the car apart to test it again) but it's now locking the fob in place as it did prior to this whole episode. Just to be clear last Saturday I disconnected the battery for around 3 hrs and it made no difference but just maybe the cas (which is what the slot unit is connected to) has some form of long term battery support. Actually physically disconnecting the slot from the cas may have allowed it to reset so I may not even have needed to buy a replacement! I've only documented this in case at some point in the future someone else hits the same problem.

If anyone has problems anything like what are documented above then (having disconnected the battery) gain access to your cas and disconnect the ribbon that connects it to the fob slot. Try your fob in the slot - see if it locks correctly. Then reconnect the ribbon and your battery. Maybe this acts as a reset. Worth a try as it costs nothing beyond 30 mins of your time!
 
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