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The bmw Carly app comes up with 19 fault codes on my 2005 530i, but I’ve never had any dash lights or warning lights from the car. I cleared them all but most of them came back. I have two codes from the acsm module that concerns me. 93CC and 93CD that talks about b pillar y links. What should I do about these faults? I have done a few battery pulls since I last cleared the car as I’ve been working on some interior stuff.

Should I be concerned?
 

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I don't know anything about Carly codes but I would suspect electrical connections.
Research what the codes mean and go back over the work you did.
 

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The bmw Carly app comes up with 19 fault codes on my 2005 530i, but I’ve never had any dash lights or warning lights from the car. I cleared them all but most of them came back. I have two codes from the acsm module that concerns me. 93CC and 93CD that talks about b pillar y links. What should I do about these faults? I have done a few battery pulls since I last cleared the car as I’ve been working on some interior stuff.

Should I be concerned?
In a nutshell, you are driving a computer. Depending on the model, there are up to 65 microprocessors all bussed together, talking to 3 or 4 main computers that take decisions based on what the various modules are saying.

Many fault codes codes are caused by minor electrical glitches. Sometimes the faults can be cleared up by simply unplugging and replugging connections. Sometimes the connection needs to be treated with a contact enhancing solution, such as deoxit red or stabilant22.

Whether a fault code is an issue depends upon whether it causes system malfunctions and what the system is. Few of the subsystem faults will light up the dashboard unless they are a critical system or a complete sub system fault.

Sometimes the fault codes are stored deeper than Carly can clear. You need INPA or other BMW specific software to remove them. That said, what are the other codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In a nutshell, you are driving a computer. Depending on the model, there are up to 65 microprocessors all bussed together, talking to 3 or 4 main computers that take decisions based on what the various modules are saying.

Many fault codes codes are caused by minor electrical glitches. Sometimes the faults can be cleared up by simply unplugging and replugging connections. Sometimes the connection needs to be treated with a contact enhancing solution, such as deoxit red or stabilant22.

Whether a fault code is an issue depends upon whether it causes system malfunctions and what the system is. Few of the subsystem faults will light up the dashboard unless they are a critical system or a complete sub system fault.

Sometimes the fault codes are stored deeper than Carly can clear. You need INPA or other BMW specific software to remove them. That said, what are the other codes?
Everything works, I woulove not have known anything was wrong unless I had scanned. I've attached the pdf error report to the post. Where can I get INPA?
 

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Under the lift arms
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because none of them are OBD2 faults

(or your cel light is burnt out)

OBD2 LAW, is all about that check engine light and all the codes that go with it, Its a world wide emission standard

your faults are chassis/body related or historic codes

all the reason to get a good bmw specific scan tool
 

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Under the lift arms
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In a nutshell, you are driving a computer. Depending on the model, there are up to 65 microprocessors all bussed together, talking to 3 or 4 main computers that take decisions based on what the various modules are saying.
:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
because none of them are OBD2 faults

(or your cel light is burnt out)

OBD2 LAW, is all about that check engine light and all the codes that go with it, Its a world wide emission standard

your faults are chassis/body related or historic codes

all the reason to get a good bmw specific scan tool

CEL works but isn’t lit. No check control errors or airbag light (also not burned out). What scan tool would work better than Carly? Could the battery pulls I’ve done lately cause codes? I’ve been getting low voltage codes too.
 

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1. How old is your battery?
2. When did you last replace your regulator (bad brushes) or alternator (regulator with bad brushes)?
3. Have you replaced your g30 relay?

All of the above can cause odd electrical variations. These can cause random electrical signals that manifest them selves as transient codes. All transient codes have a minimum occurrence level that triggers the CEL, or not, if the transient occurs only once.

1. If your battery is >4 years old, replace it (FLA H8 at Walmart is $120 or so).

2. If your battery is OK, remove your regulator and see if the brushes are worn. If so, replace it ($50 or so).

3. Put a scope on our alternator output (see newtis) and see if the DC voltage is steady. If voltage is AC-ish,do what newtis says.

4. After the above replace your G30 relay ($25) to see if it's triggering incorrectly and spiking system voltage when you start the car. Happened to me. Got a Christmas tree on the dash lights and a bunch of codes randomly through the system.

Stop back and report.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Banglenot, battery was replaced about 3 years ago, I do sometimes get the low battery warning when the car isn***8217;t started right away after getting in. This is a project car I picked up about 6 weeks ago so I haven***8217;t done anything to the alternator. I did notice last night that the fan will not go into high speed and pressing the max button does nothing. Battery related?

I haven***8217;t heard of the G30 relay, I will do research.

So these are transient codes since they do not trigger any visible warnings, should I worry about them?

This is excellent advice, I will work on this this week and report back. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Have a look at Protool by Bimmer geeks. It does coding as well as live data and diagnostics. I prefer it to Carly.
 

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Does it just scan or can I make code changes to modules?
per the instruction it says it can code..

I have not been able to get it to do so..

for coding you will need a laptop and INPA and winkp
 

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Banglenot, battery was replaced about 3 years ago, I do sometimes get the low battery warning when the car isn't started right away after getting in. This is a project car I picked up about 6 weeks ago so I haven't done anything to the alternator. I did notice last night that the fan will not go into high speed and pressing the max button does nothing. Battery related?

I haven't heard of the G30 relay, I will do research.

So these are transient codes since they do not trigger any visible warnings, should I worry about them?

This is excellent advice, I will work on this this week and report back. :)
The low battery warning can mean a wornout battery (check the cold voltage on it); or the charging system is problematic (such as worn regulator brushes) and the battery is not being properly charged. Do you do lots of short trip driving?

You should diagnose even transients, particularly if there's a lot of them. But it depends, since the SES light is triggered by programming, which depends on whether a code event hits a certain count. Some are immediate. Some, believe it or not, never trigger a light. Some trigger the light (the open gas cap code) and vanish if the event stops (you put on the gas cap).

Are the codes highly repeatable (the same events over and over again), or a bunch of random events that vary? If they vary over time, then I'd be suspicious of power stability or a bad power relay.

Here's a search on that relay: https://www.google.com/search?clien.....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i10.HPz3FhZLXSI
 
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