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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I watched every,"how to change a guibo/flexdisc". I just did this on my 1994bmw530i m60. If anyone wants a step by step guide on what this entails, I would be happy to share my experience. Also I did this in 20 degrees weather. Not pleasant. I work a lot,so be patient and I will reply.
 

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Transplanted JrzyBoy
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226 Posts
This is a job I need to do but am...

dreading. For obvious reasons, in February, in snow/rain and on one's Medicare card recipient's back. I've my sons '91 525i which I'm trying to squeeze a bit more life out of before Mr. Boneyard comes a'calling. I've just become a wizard on replacing an Idle Control Valve (ICV) and removing the intake manifold to do so. Working under the car has the added disadvantage of 28 years or road salt from NJ to WA and points in-between plus last time I pulled a driveshaft was on a 1959 Edsel in order to change a U-joint. Now that car was simplicity plus. If you are preparing to do a write up on tips and tricks and potential pitfalls plus what parts to order BEFORE placing the rig on jack stands, while it's still fresh in your memory, believe me, that'll be a "this summer job" and much appreciated. I do this stuff for the knowledge and once you get Medicare, it's hopefully not about the money. Besides, unless you're a mechanic, this is supposed to be about a hobby and relaxing (unless it's trying to replace or remove one stubborn nut from a place that inaccessible and prone to dropping while you're in a confined space and the nut fails to fall completely thru the engine and on to the ground). Look forward to a write up if you're so inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok here we go. 1994BMW530i, 181,000 miles. Midwest car,oxidized. Tools, inline jigsaw or sawzall,jig saw, grinder, dremmel. Drills and drill bit. First up on jacks, remove O2 sensors, I had to cut every bolt and in order for the exhaust to be freed. Make sure the exhaust is supported, it weighs 150+lbs. Drag exhaust out from under car. Continue to cut all bolts an separate front and back sections. Remove heat shield. Spray penetrating fluid on guibo and rearend bolts. Place tranny i neutral as needed to rotate driveshaft. I had to CUT,every guibo bolt, the rear end bolts came out. Save all bolts so you can size the for re install. Remove and replace. Now you must drill the pressed in studs out of the exhaust manifolds. Buy cobalt,titanium, diamond drill bits, a dozen should do. Drill,drill,grind, tap,punch,etc. Take said bolts, and get replacements. Pay attention to the GRADE!! Jack up front exhaust and re connect. Bolts at engine exhaust manifold are extremely difficult. And thats it, just finish it up. Easy peasy,lemon squeezzy.
 

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Transplanted JrzyBoy
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226 Posts
Somehow the words "extremely difficult" & "easy peasy"...

don't exactly inspire confidence by going together. I've had this job priced out at around $435 for a shop to do and IMHO, doing this on your back under a car on jack stands would give me enough pause to have a shop do this as the time value of money enters the picture. While I sometimes actually enjoy working on a car (it's supposed to be my hobby and FUN) , there are certain things that I leave to professionals, such as airbag fiddling, heater cores, difficult suspension parts that haven't been replaced in 29 years and transmissions. I think this is job best left to someone with a lot of time on their hands. Shop said it take them about 1.5 - 2.0 hours, and breaking off bolts isn't fun outside in the winter. Appreciate the write up and will take it under advisement. I"m having issues trying to figure out why my interior map/dome and rear C pillar lights don't come on.
 
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