the radio and display on the screen just cut out completely. Also noticed the blinkers do not blink at dash any longer, I am sure I am missing something else that is also not working. Replaced the 30 amp fuse already. That did not help. any suggestions?
Thank you for your response. I am a novice to this and literally just bought the car and within one week this happened.
OEM, has Navigation system yes, not sure on version, whatever was original to the 1998 750il
6 cd changer in the back, same compartment for navigation cd
AMFM stereo cassette with 16 speakers
Integrated cell phone
We were enjoying the nice sounds when it suddenly got quiet, screen went black. Since trying new fuses and normal battery reset, the screen has some light to it but just a streak and it varies
It should be close to your '98, depending on build date. The navigation unit serves as a modem for the I-bus, as all amp and DSP/radio functions
are impacted by it. The screen in the dash is merely a monitor/display.
The early navigation units tended to suffer from electrical issues (low batteries, jump starts, disconnecting batteries, etc.)
This link will allow you to identify you series, 1,2,3, or 4. https://e39source.com/archives/797
A bit odd to have the flasher indicator issue. Did it occur at the same time as the radio death?
I will be going from an MKI to an MKIII. I have the wiring harness part 61126907840 on order and have the replacement MKIII in hand. I have seen how to expose the area where the cd player and navigation system are and have the proper stereo removal tools. What I have no idea on yet is how to actually install the harness and where. I have yet to see a tutorial. Any suggestions or directions would be helpful. Thanks
The harness will adapt the existing MkI cables to the MkIII unit since they are different. Slots are dedicated.
You will also need to move the Trimble (compass) cable to the MkIII. You can remove all the Trimble components
or leave them, but they will need to be removed to access the antennae cable. I simply removed mine.
Check Utoob for e38 Trimble removal/access. Kind of clunky vid, but the gist is there.
Keep in mind these old nav units are very sensitive to voltage inputs/spikes/removal unexpectedly. Before starting
open trunk and flip the latch closed with a screwdriver (key out of ignition) and let the car go to sleep (16 minutes).
This can be verified by the 'park' indicator light on the console going out. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Once in and connected, restore the battery connection open the trunk latch with the key and fire it up. You can check the software
revision and upgrade if wanted (lastest verision is SW 3-1/63, Version 23). That info is in the E39 Source linked above.
When I upgraded my MkII to MkIV, I found it to be a European model, with German/Italian/French as the languages under menu.
The voice was cool, but it also read out in the Check Control. A software program called NavCoder and a small harness attached to the I bus
will enable you to change the language selections if needed. The nav discs available are all old, so not functional as a GPS these days. It is fun
to hear an English lass tell me to hang a U-ee....
Good luck with it, and keep your eyes out for a working MkIV unit. Plug and play, they are faster and much more stable.
The MkIV is really the one to go for being DVD rather than CD based, is faster, and takes the very last v31/v31 software release, which can't be applied to the MkIII. It also does not require the careful shutdown the MkIII, though its still good practice to follow this.
Well, on the eve of having the MK1 replaced with the MK3 using the wiring harness....the entire navigation system and display came back on. It has been working fine all day but there were about 1500 miles driven since the display went out all together. The only common theme has been the unusual amount of rain we have gotten this season. Since then, I have noticed small droplets of condensation inside the left rear taillight housing. Being that that taillight and the navigation system are in close proximity, I am curious if maybe I should be thinking of replacing the entire taillight assembly. Needless to say, I will not be changing out the MK1 unless it goes out again. Any thoughts?
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