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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so here we go again.
My 2000 740 I doesn't start and I think it might be the starter. My 1999 740 IL rattles like a diesel and I think it is the timing chain.
Does anyone know a BMW mechanic in MN that can help me?
I have not pulled the valve cover or the oil pan to see if the guides are not visible on top and visible in the pan yet. It is cold in MN and I do not have a heated garage.
The mechanics I talked to are not interested in doing the job because they don't feel comfortable with it.
One shop wants 170 for diagnostics and if it is the timing about 8000 to fix it.
I can get a brand new engine shipped from Germany and installed for 10000.
any suggestions?
Again looking for a BMW mechanic close to the Twin Cities in Minnesota.
Thank you
 

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$8k is a 'We don't really want to do this job but we will if you pay us double the going rate' price. The $170 is not out of bounds for a diagnostic with proper equipment, even though it will only take a few minutes. That said, if it is the guides, trying to drive it to be checked may cause a catastrophic engine failure. Even a $30 OBD-II scanner would give you a timing over advanced code, assuming the engine light is on. Actually, my son just bought one for $20. You plug it in the port and then use an app on your phone to read the codes. It might even help you with your non starter.
 

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If your Service Engine Light came on, there should be a code stored. If it has not come on yet, and the guides are in pieces, the chain may not have jumped yet. Not sure if it's the same on the later models, but the early E38's had to have the cap on the diagnostic port under the hood in order for the inside port to work. And vice versa.

Once a code is recorded, it stays until it is cleared, regardless if the warning light cycles off.
 

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On the V8 it is pretty easy to remove the oil pan to check for pieces of the guides. P0011 and P0021 are the codes you'll be looking for. Any mechanic should be able to do that and $170 sounds fair. But if you do need the guides replaced to to bimrs.org to find a local BMW specialist and as Mayorchuck said it should be around $4k (at least that seemed like the going rate 3-5 years ago). If you don't need the guides replaced you should still replaced the tensioner, about $100-150 for the part (updated design includes a longer spring) and a skilled mechanic should be able to do it in 20 minutes.

On the no-start car we need more info. Battery voltage? Have you tried charging/jumping? If you think it is the starter I assume it doesn't crank but do you hear the solenoid clicking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The no start (2000 740 I) had a bad engine in it. I had the engine replaced with a used one with 125000 miles on it. The car drove nice and no problems. Then it just wouldn't start. I checked the battery and replaced it. It tries to do something but all I get is a grinding noise and that's it. It almost sounds like the starter is trying to engage but falls short of it and the tip hits the flywheel. It also seems like the ignition switch wants to stick and keep trying if I do not manually turn the key back to the off position.
The 1999 740 IL, I will inspect the oil pan and see if I find anything there.
Thank you for your replies and your help, I always appreciate it and will take lots more of your advice

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Found a bmw mechanic in MN and he figured the timing chain on my 1999 and needs to be replaced. Will bring the BMW to him shortly and let him take care of it. The 2000 no start will be next.
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
alright Gentlemen, I wrote before that I would put a update here.
The 2000 had a few codes and I cleared them. After clearing them it started and ran nice. Brought it back into the garage and parked it. The next day it did the same thing again. Turn but did not start.
Last night I cleared all the codes again and it started right up. Drove nice and started again tonight several times.
Any ideas?

Thank you
Marty
 

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And the codes are???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok here we go again. sorry but I did not have time sooner to do this.
the car did start a few times during the week and then today I drove it to the end of out driveway and parked it. Later I got in and it didn't start again.
I hooked up the scanner and cleared following codes. After that it started right up.
C7 IKE: tank sensor 1 (fuel pump side)
28 Thermal Oil level sensor
94 GM: LED for antitheft system, open circuit (but I had the door open)
58 DSC: precharging pump
F DSC: Return pump fault
50 DME: function, secondary-air system, bank 1
51 DME: function, secondary-air system, bank 2

Thank you again
Marty
 

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Is that a Peake your using to get codes?
So it randomly chooses to start or not start? Look up "visor test" and try that out, this could be as simple as just the ignition switch.
 
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