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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I'm looking for help sooner than I thought!
I bought a 1999 740iL that has been sitting for 5 years. Bunny rabbits ate some wiring and it wouldn't start so they parked it.
The first thing I find is the wires to the starter have been eaten. They were too short to repair them at the connector, so I removed the connector and replaced the two smaller wires from right above the oil pan to a point right past the connector.
Both of the key fobs were dead, and they had bought a new battery three years ago, they tried it and it wouldn't turn over (obviously) so they disconnected it and the car sat without any juice.
The only other wires I found chewed are the ones to the left headlight, and three wires going to a sensor of some type on the bottom of the oil pan. It got too cold to repair the wires to that sensor. I hooked up the battery, the alarm went off. I got in and tried the key in the ignition but it didn't shut off the alarm. It finally stopped sounding so I tried the key again and it sounded the alarm again, and it stopped again after so many seconds. I tried to start it, it will crank but won't fire. I went to town and bought batteries for the remote, and it doesn't operate the locks and the engine cranks but won't fire.
Is there a way I can reprogram the fobs myself? Will that sensor on the bottom of the oil pan stop it from firing? I have a Genesys scan tool, as well as an Auto xray and a Snap On brick- will any of these communicate with the Bimmer software- mainly security?
I will do some more reading tonight and play with it tomorrow. I got this thing for scrap price thanks to the fuzzy bunny, I'd love to see it run again. Ph, and it has 142,000 miles on it, if it runs I see timing chain guides in my future!
Thanks! Sherri :bigpimp:
 

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From the wording of your post it sounds like it was parked outside and you are still working on it outside, in farm country, in the north...scary thoughts with winter coming. I wish you luck.
The sensor on the oil pan is the oil level sensor, not sure it would do anything except tell you the oil is low.
So the car has sat for 5 years? Have you siphoned that stale gas out and put fresh gas in? Speaking of changing fluids, that oil can't be looking very good either. And since you know animals have been in the engine bay, have you checked the air filter?
I believe instructions for reprogramming the fob for the locks (which itself has nothing to do with starting the car) are in the owners manual, but Qsilver7 has posted them about 100 times or you can look for them at a couple good reference sites listed in our 'wiki' thread (near top of the E38 forum).
As far as those scanners you have, I'm not familiar with any of them to tell you for sure what components they will or will not communicate with. Luckily actual BMW software is pretty cheap such as INPA, I hear you can get it with a cable for $40 on ebay (I'm procrastinating on that one for no good reason).

P.S. Welcome to the 'fest!

sent from the future using the bimmerfest app embedded in my neural implant
 

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Ditto the post above :thumbup: The batteries inside the key will only power the remote to transmitt the RF signal to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the car (fzv/dwa). The ews system that immobilizes the car from starting is self powered through induction...the fact the car is cranking means it is operating as expected...and is communicating since the starter is turning the engine over to at least crank. The fact that the engine isn't continue to run after start attempts means there's another issue (fuel/spark/etc).

See the info below as to how to reinitialized the remotes to lock and arm the vehicle. The GM has lost communication with the remotes...so reprogramming them should get the remote central locking (fzv) and anti-theft alarm siren system (dwa) up and running.

TIPS to help prevent programming failure:
  • KL R = ignition position 1 (not position 2)
  • All remotes must be initialized in the SAME session...any remote not present will no longer communicate with the GM because it won't have the latest rolling code info
  • Make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
  • Make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
  • Only insert the 1st remote into the ignition...all other remotes start programming on STEP 3 where you start pressing the buttons, just as mentioned in STEP 6

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! Today I will get the old gas out and get some fresh in. I am also planning on pulling the armor on top of the engine and looking for anything else eaten up. I guess I was just happy it turned over repairing just two wires! I was planning for the worst, like the PO lied and the motor was locked up or something.
My Ford trucks, the motor will crank but won't fire if there is a security issue. Good to know these won't even crank. I do have a blue tooth dongle for OBD2, I will look for the software for the car and see what else needs addressing. I do have Torque Pro for android I see it works on the BMW.
Yes, I'm outdoors lol. Lucky it's in the 40's and 50's here this week, I can get it fired up and into the shop. I really dont want to drag it off the trailer I'd rather have control.
Thanks again! I'll update!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK! I repaired the three wires to the oil level sensor, cleaned out some poo from the air cleaner and top of engine, new air filter, new gas, went through and replace several blown fuses- including one under the screwed down box under the hood in a secret beige holder LOL, and low and behold she fired right up with a puff of smoke- smoothed right out and hasn't skipped a beat since.
There are many dead pixels in the display, but not so bad I don't know what's going on :) Got the door locks going. About every 5 amp fuse is blown, guess the rodent rewiring caused some shorts!
Now I have to re-wire the left head light and check the torque arm because it has death shimmy at 50-55 mph.
I'm quite pleased with it! theres 142,xxx showing on the odo.
Thanks for your help!
Sherri
 

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Great job!

sent from the future using the bimmerfest app embedded in my neural implant
 

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:thumbup:
 
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