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Discussion Starter #1
https://vimeo.com/174006789

Can you guys input your best thoughts on the noise?

Is it the vanos which is ok will be done while doing guides. So if it guides sound it's fine. But if it my lifters or cam followers then FUUUUCK

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miles on the car? 150K or higher? rattle on start up? motor life spent using the wrong oil, long durations between oil changes and sometimes a quart low?

then maybe chain guide & vanos time..

remove the sound deadening cover to see if it's simply the typical fuel injector clicking sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
miles on the car? 150K or higher? rattle on start up? motor life spent using the wrong oil, long durations between oil changes and sometimes a quart low?

then maybe chain guide & vanos time..

remove the sound deadening cover to see if it's simply the typical fuel injector clicking sound.
My buddy with the e39 m5 heard it and wasn't sure as I felt this after my oil change but due to overfilling with oil before this oil change I didn't fill up all the way bout 6 qt or less. I did notice quieter after adding oil but now hood latch broke. Def had a slight vanos when I bought car two months back with 142k and change on the clock now it's at 145200 approx.

I am in between deciding to do the chain guides bc I can source oem parts but not sure on where exactly or who can do reliable work not just quality but not stealing my parts in nyc this happens a lot. Also my Dinan shop great but they prefer to use their BMW authorized parts but it's not fruitful for them to use mine from a business stand point and I don't blame them. Sigh or maybe sell it shouldn't have a guide issue as nothkng sounding like it

However I want to change timing chain tensioner or that be a waste of time? Since no guides clacking sound?

Will post up pic without valve cover n so

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Discussion Starter #4
miles on the car? 150K or higher? rattle on start up? motor life spent using the wrong oil, long durations between oil changes and sometimes a quart low?

then maybe chain guide & vanos time..

remove the sound deadening cover to see if it's simply the typical fuel injector clicking sound.
Also unsure what rattle startup sound like being the car is loud with custom cat back exhaust

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is this a DD or has the car been sitting a while?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
is this a DD or has the car been sitting a while?
Hey yeah it's a daily. I owned it for 4 months now or so. I just got oil change to 5/40 syn castrol is quieter but still an knock so im assuming the plugs tune up I did might have been loose? Bc I'm worried bout going too hard being alloy block

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm no expert on VANOS, but it does sound like that's the source of the noise. Do some reading here: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/m62tu_vanos_procedure.htm
Yes I agree the vanos is becoming more diligent it's noise as when I bought it had a slight faint. If I do the time guide, oil seperator, valley pan, job should I do the vanos and how? I want to know which is most effective but cost effective way. There are the seals, solenoids and rebuild vanos itself? I'm planning to build this into SC 550 whp

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sounds to me like the top end, if it were crank related all the sounds I've heard had a "deeper" thud to it. Oil level is good? Oil was changed recently? Those round discs atop the valves below the cams are free and move about? ........................... I'm thinking get a good engine flush, (Amsoil sells one called:

Engine and Transmission Flush
Product Code: FLSHCN-EA

And sell it for about $10 retail. I'm no employee of Amsoil but I've had good results using their and another manufacturer by the name of BG products)

Long story even longer, try it, replace with a good quality synthetic, (Like Mobil 1 0W40 or Amsoil 5W40, again, not affiliated with either company), and hopefully that dieseling sound will go away. If it does not you can always attack the VANOS issue after. I'm of the same mind set of a M5 Guru poster who has as a conclusion to any of his posts: Keep it simple, if not simpler. Try the easy stuff first and then dig into it slowly if it doesn't get any better
 

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sounds to me like the top end, if it were crank related all the sounds I've heard had a "deeper" thud to it. Oil level is good? Oil was changed recently? Those round discs atop the valves below the cams are free and move about? ........................... I'm thinking get a good engine flush, (Amsoil sells one called:

Engine and Transmission Flush
Product Code: FLSHCN-EA

And sell it for about $10 retail. I'm no employee of Amsoil but I've had good results using their and another manufacturer by the name of BG products)

Long story even longer, try it, replace with a good quality synthetic, (Like Mobil 1 0W40 or Amsoil 5W40, again, not affiliated with either company), and hopefully that dieseling sound will go away. If it does not you can always attack the VANOS issue after. I'm of the same mind set of a M5 Guru poster who has as a conclusion to any of his posts: Keep it simple, if not simpler. Try the easy stuff first and then dig into it slowly if it doesn't get any better
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This post makes the most sense. For me, a car that has four cams and 32 valves, trying to distinguish between the two, IMO, would be a challenge, at best. In my experience, valve train noise is usually associated with the valves, worn seals, seats, damaged valve stems, etc. A cam, when it wears down enough, can really affect performance/power, but doesn't normally make noise. Unless the cam bearings are shot and those are making noise, but it doesn't sound like that to me.

It's already been said, but replacing a worn VANOS, seals, etc., would be the cheapest and is the most likely culprit from the audio you attached.

I can only truly tell the difference in sounds between the valve-train, piston slap and the bottom-end; the crank and it's parts. You probably can too. If it gets louder and more of a deep knock at the bottom of the motor, then you know it's not in the valve-train, but in the crank, rod and main bearings.

I may have said this to you already. Take it to a BMW Dealership and get the ear of a Service Advisor, if you want to try and diagnose purely by sound. Worst thing that could happen, they may say there's no way we can tell without a complete inspection.

At least price a pair of complete heads out, so you know if it's worth it to you to fix it, in case it's not the VANOS. You could probably replace complete heads yourself. I dread these types of serious issues.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys very informative and I did another oil change today and seems sounds is much less if not back to normal but u know u get once paranoia sets in lol. However another weird issue arises I plug back in the o2 sensor after cat and it was ripped with the four plugs loose and I jus plug it back not sure which ones go where got all sorts of codes and then cleared and cleared my adaptation and engine went into fail safe mode crazy stutter then shut off now it seems ok once again my paranoia set in so I drove my Audi instead just now lol


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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I wish Haynes had one book for this e39 I don't think Bentley are worth it lol at 140 bucks rather get me some parts


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you can find them at 100.. if you hunt.. and IT IS WELL WORTH IT>.
 

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Yes I agree the vanos is becoming more diligent it's noise as when I bought it had a slight faint. If I do the time guide, oil seperator, valley pan, job should I do the vanos and how? I want to know which is most effective but cost effective way. There are the seals, solenoids and rebuild vanos itself? I'm planning to build this into SC 550 whp

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Since you are going in for the guides, you should really rebuild the VANOs. I mean, you will have taken the engine appart to the point which the vanos is a t55 bolt away. That's my plan in about 2 months. Biesen Systems for the rebuild kits. Once the longevity of the engine is sure up, yeah SC will need to follow.
 

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Timing job boss....

thats normal, thats what they sound like. Do you have timing cam and crank codes yet?

The Tu motors dont have vanos problems... that sound has nothing to do with your vanos.... You can replace it when you doing your timing if you like... but you will find that money a waste... as your going to have this same sound (maybe a little less) after you do the timing job anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Timing job boss....

thats normal, thats what they sound like. Do you have timing cam and crank codes yet?

The Tu motors dont have vanos problems... that sound has nothing to do with your vanos.... You can replace it when you doing your timing if you like... but you will find that money a waste... as your going to have this same sound (maybe a little less) after you do the timing job anyway
I have an generic creator 310 obd reader and no crank n time codes only my post cat code bank 1. Before that car never had codes and been serviced by Motorcepts whom are professionals with BMW being they built rally cars for BMW and did bring to another bimmer spot but they seem complete rip off telling the price tag wohld be 5000 after me bringing my own parts for the guides?!oh bc they only get new vanos not dr vanos? Extra 1400

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Discussion Starter #19
Timing job boss....

thats normal, thats what they sound like. Do you have timing cam and crank codes yet?

The Tu motors dont have vanos problems... that sound has nothing to do with your vanos.... You can replace it when you doing your timing if you like... but you will find that money a waste... as your going to have this same sound (maybe a little less) after you do the timing job anyway
Couple of the BMW tech I know telling me to change the vanos one shop said brand new 700 each and another one said rebuilt by dr vanos, I mean I do have the vanos noise now but no guides noise. I am bout to change the cam chain tensioner. All I want to change on vanos are the seals when doing the time guides job?what u think?

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I think and this is going to hurt everyone's eyes (and ive been honest about it for ever) I think the vanos talk about that sound is BS, IVe seen one e36 m3 that needed a vanos unit, it screamed it was lound you could put your finger on the corner of the valve cover and feel it,

thats the only time ive seen someone do a vanos job and have noticed something actually got fixed

This m62tu doesn't have this problem (ive got 215k) i did my timing at about 150k, the start up sound went away for about a week and has been knocking on start up ever since,
the timing job is important, and you could mess with the vanos while your there... but there are many other more important things to do while doing timing


i think your guides are going to be shot.
you need a full timing job..

focus on that first...

if you had vanos timing issues, you would have timing adv, retard codes
 
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