[325BeamerXI]

Hi all. This is my first post. I've spent the past two weeks scouring these boards for information on the car I recently purchased (2002 325xi). I've noticed people always want n00bs to use the search button (which I did) but I have some questions because this is my first BMW so I'm not sure how much of my concerns are normal.

Ok. So I managed to find a 1 owner 2002 BMW 325 xi with only 18,000 original miles. So even though it's 8 years old, it has ridiculously low mileage. Carfax confirmed it and I saw the trade-in odometer disclosure.

So some of the symptoms the car is showing seems to happen with higher mileage cars. So I'm curious if things like CABs or Tie Rods could wear out from age even if it was only driven 18k miles. I love the car, but here's what I'm noticing. Again, I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

Car shakes when driving on the highway at about 45 mph. It's just a steady shake that seems to go away when traveling 5 mph slower or faster. But holding steady at that speed is a constant shake. Not terrible, but definitely not annoying.

At around 50mph to 65mph the steering wheel shakes greatly traveling at those speeds. It's enough that even with your hand on the wheel it can't stop the shake.

However, a new problem presents itself from 55mph to 70mph. At those speeds, the steering wheel frequently shakes violently during braking until speed falls below 40mph. The brake pedal also shakes during braking at those speeds.​

So again, sorry if this annoys anyone, any help is appreciated. I'm just looking for definitive answers from anyone as to why is this happening if the car does actually only have 18k miles on it?

 

[Fast Bob]

Welcome aboard !

A couple of suggestions:

1. Change your screen name....it`s "Bimmer", not "Beamer" (or "Beemer", which is a motorcycle) People WILL rag on you about this, it`s a real point of contention around here.

2. Read the E46 Wiki....it`s *very* comprehensive, and you`ll learn a lot about your car.

Your shimmy is possibly due to either bent wheels (try swapping front to back, and see if anything changes, worn tires, or CABs (yes, they sometimes go bad at incredibly low mileage).

 

[325BeamerXI]

Hey Fast Bob. Thanks for the Fast response. As for Bimmer vs. Beamer. I don't get how "bimmer" doesn't sound like Let the sauce "simmer" or I put my lights on a "dimmer". So, eh, I guess I'll take my n00b abuse.

That said, I just took the car for a ride to do some further testing. I wanted to write this immediately while it was all still fresh. Not sure if this will help or not, but here's what I noticed.

I noticed that while driving at 65 mph the steering wheel shake is pronounced. It shakes pretty bad. But it seems to only really do it when I'm pushing the gas (accelerating). When I'm not accelerating it cruises at 65 mph fairly comfortably with only minimal shimmy. But if I take it up towards 75 or 80 it's shaking regardless (acceleration or not).

Also to confuse me further, if I turn the wheel towards the right while accelerating, the shake stops. If I turn towards the left while accelerating it remains equal to if the wheel were straight on.

I hope that helps. Again, all help is appreciated. Trying to sort this out! Thanks guys.

 

[aioros]

check the alignment and your suspension, which it's basically the control arm. check the 2 ball joints (inner, outter) and the bushings (which are the rear of the CA). check the tie-rod ball joint. Look for an-even wear on the tires.
CA: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ES53&mospid=47726&btnr=31_0563&hg=31&fg=05

 

[mujjuman]

1. get the car's alignment done... it will reveal other problems if any
2. its "bimmer" if you have a BMW car, and its pronounced "beemer" (think german)
"beamer" pisses me off lol.

 

[Doc Holliday]

When I bought my 325xi, it had two bent wheels. Take them off and get a good road force balance on them. You'll know pretty quickly if you have one. If you have a bent one and it's not real bad, you can help youself short term by putting it on the right rear. You won't be able to rotate the tires, though, until you get it fixed.

Shimmies under braking would make me check for warped brake rotors.

You might have bad bushings or ball joints, but it would be a much smaller chance at that kind of mileage.

Check your wheels and tires first. Do the cheap fix first.

 

[mujjuman]

congrats on ur caar

 

[325BeamerXI]

So, I went outside to give the wheels a thorough washing and see what I could. I cocked the wheels all the way to the right and sure enough, inside the front right tire the boot is ripped. The boot right where it connects to the wheel (I think it's the CV boot, sorry I don't know the exact name of it). I know this needs to be replaced ASAP, but what does a torn boot imply? Did it tear because something is wrong inside? Or does it simply mean that the boot tore, and if unchecked it could cause damage? I can tell grease started leaking out, but it looks like there's still some inside. So the cause of vibration, could it be a torn boot? Or could the leaking grease dripping on the wheel throw the balance off? Or both??? I'm starting to worry...

 

[325BeamerXI]

Ok, I checked, suppose the potentially good news is I'm technically still under the dealer's used car warranty. It's good for 60 days or 1500 miles (I've exceeded neither). The warranty states: "DRIVE AXLE: Front or rear drive axle housing and all internal parts. Drive shaft and universal joints. Transfer case on four wheel drive vehicles and all internal parts. Front axle joints are covered only on four wheel drive vehicles. Excludes minor oil seepage."

Does that sound promising that this will be covered?

 

[Nando779]

The site is called bimmerfest yet you still managed to use "beamer" :facepalm.

Now that I got that out of the way welcome to the fest! Don't forget to read the wiki, it has tons of great info :thumbup:

 

[SJBimmer]

You probab;ly have bad CV joints or joint. Grab on either side of joint and twist. There should be no movement. Rebuilt half shaft is the solution. Water gets in the tear in the boot = grease gets contaminated = joint is shot.

 

[325BeamerXI]

@nando779 - I thought the URL had a spelling error. I'm simply correcting it with my awesome handle. Bummer. Or is that Boomer. ;-) Now "simmer" down.

@SJBimmer - As for the CV Joints/Axle. That should be under warranty (I hope, or else I'll fight for it).

 

[mujjuman]

@nando779 - I thought the URL had a spelling error. I'm simply correcting it with my awesome handle. Bummer. Or is that Boomer. ;-) Now "simmer" down.

@SJBimmer - As for the CV Joints/Axle. That should be under warranty (I hope, or else I'll fight for it).

lmfao that was hilarious... i gotta give it to you :thumbup:

but yeah definitely take your car back, tell them that your car is shaking like crazy and that your CV boot is torn... show them the warranty too.
also, tell them that the torn boot will cause the axle to fail.

 

[Gryphon]

I found out CV boots on the XI are covered under CPO accoding to my little used SA at the stealership. Yeah it's best to get those repaired/replaced as stated above you may have to rebuild the driveshaft on the affected wheel. I get the boots repacked every 60k as a little insurance, that's one job I don't mind letting an Indy perform.

 

[LX-biker]

Car shakes when driving on the highway at about 45 mph. It's just a steady shake that seems to go away when traveling 5 mph slower or faster. But holding steady at that speed is a constant shake. Not terrible, but definitely not annoying.

At around 50mph to 65mph the steering wheel shakes greatly traveling at those speeds. It's enough that even with your hand on the wheel it can't stop the shake.

However, a new problem presents itself from 55mph to 70mph. At those speeds, the steering wheel frequently shakes violently during braking until speed falls below 40mph. The brake pedal also shakes during braking at those speeds.
​

Welcome to the club! and sorry for your trouble start. I seen my car new and problem free days before. XI is different animal and I start to believe it's just not perfect design ordered by somebody from BMW marketing department.
I start noticing similar problems after 80K km. At the same time I got set of aftermarket wheels.
I think you have to start from fixing your brakes, esp. fronts: calipers sticking, warped rotor or need to be bedded. Check wheel balance and runout is good idea and cheap.
Alignment and may be CABs. Cab's aging because it rubber and may loose oil inside from road impact. When do CV shafts, good time to do Cab's and then alignment.
PS. If car was parked long time, may be flatspots on tires causing vibrations and you really have to drive it a week before start any repairs. Good luck.

 

[mrblorry]

1. get the car's alignment done... it will reveal other problems if any
2. its "bimmer" if you have a BMW car, and its pronounced "beemer" (think german)
"beamer" pisses me off lol.

"Bimmer" is pronounced like "Simmer." "Beemer" or "Beamer" is pronounced like "Steamer" or "Dreamer."

ANYWAY, automobiles are meant to be driven, and it's not at all surprising that you're having problems with a car that has been driven only 2250 miles/year. Anything made of rubber is suspect, and bushings, hoses and tires may need replacement. Tires can flat spot if the car has sat still for a long period of time.

 

[seabimmer301]

Hello all, I just found this site and am really glad I did!

I own a 2005 325xi with about 59K miles. I have had it since it had about 23K miles. I noticed in the past year it has this shake that is really bothersome. It starts when I drive on the highway then continues until the car comes to a complete stop and gets some rest. At one point the car would even smoke from the front passenger side tire. I took it in and had it checked. Initially, I thought it was related to the tires but was told it wasn't. Then I thought it was the brakes (changed by Firestone but they found no issues). I didn't feel confident with FS and finally took it in to BMW to take a look. They ruled out the tires and the actual brakes/rotors. They fixed something within the brakes - can't remember the name and said I should be good to go. A few months later, I took it back with the same issue. This time it cost me about $1,000 to get it fixed (again, not sure of the name but they said it***8217;s a small part that goes near the brakes/rotors). It seemed to have fixed it this time as I no longer see the smoke coming out but the car still shakes vigorously at highway speeds.

I checked out the wiki as suggested but didn***8217;t know where to start in diagnosing the problem.

Any help or suggestion would be much appreciated.